What order do road bike parts seize in...



Why do road bike parts seize? If you *grease* any and all "metal to
metal" contact, like pedal threads, you should have any "seizing" going
on.

Of course, we can start the I grease/you don't grease/we all grease bb
spindle to crank interface. But that should be another thread!
Grease/Dry, Grease/Dry, Grease/Dry!
 
On 18 Apr 2006 13:47:14 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>Starting with the pedals of course?


Nope. Start with the threads of the screws in the bottle cage mounts.
Then the seat post in the frame, and the BB cups in the BB shell.
(The order may vary.)

I've never had a roadie moving part sieze. Lube makes that a
non-problem. (They'll still wear out and get sloppy, but not sieze.)
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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Opps, that should be if you grease your threads, you should NOT have
any "seizing" going on.
 
On 18 Apr 2006 13:47:14 -0700, [email protected]
wrote:

>Starting with the pedals of course?


Dear Michael,

Apart from fasteners, like the steel pedals that someone
forgot to coat with anti-seize before installing in aluminum
cranks, bicycle parts don't seize in the more common sense
of the word, which involves moving parts. Bike parts may
wear and rattle, but they usually keep grinding along
instead of seizing up.

For a moving-part "seize" (as opposed to mere corrosion like
pedals and seat posts), see tip #14 for motorcyclists
planning to buzz along Scottish highways for a week on
trials machines intended for walking speeds:

"If you seize the piston, don't panic. Let the engine cool
down a little and try and push the kick start down. If the
kick-start is absolutely solid, you're in trouble!"

http://www.ssdt.org/sitebody/modules/UploadIt/files/GasGas Pro Checklist.pdf

A seat-post seized in a frame or a pedal seized in a crank
just isn't the same as the pedal refusing to move when you
stand on it.

But to offer a bicycling example that may not otherwise be
mentioned, it's annoying to try to unscrew a Presta valve
nut on a Slime tube, only to have the whole assembly unscrew
because the Presta valve was tighter than the removable body
that allows filling the tube with Slime at the factory.

Whoosh!

Cheers,

Carl Fogel
 
bfd wrote:
> Opps, that should be if you grease your threads, you should NOT have
> any "seizing" going on.


What about Tapirs?
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
[email protected] wrote:
> On 18 Apr 2006 13:47:14 -0700, [email protected]
> wrote:
>
>> Starting with the pedals of course?

>
> Dear Michael,
>
> Apart from fasteners, like the steel pedals that someone
> forgot to coat with anti-seize before installing in aluminum
> cranks, bicycle parts don't seize in the more common sense
> of the word, which involves moving parts. Bike parts may
> wear and rattle, but they usually keep grinding along
> instead of seizing up.
>
> For a moving-part "seize" (as opposed to mere corrosion like
> pedals and seat posts), see tip #14 for motorcyclists
> planning to buzz along Scottish highways for a week on
> trials machines intended for walking speeds:
>
> "If you seize the piston, don't panic. Let the engine cool
> down a little and try and push the kick start down. If the
> kick-start is absolutely solid, you're in trouble!"
>
> http://www.ssdt.org/sitebody/modules/UploadIt/files/GasGas Pro Checklist.pdf
>
> A seat-post seized in a frame or a pedal seized in a crank
> just isn't the same as the pedal refusing to move when you
> stand on it.
>
> But to offer a bicycling example that may not otherwise be
> mentioned, it's annoying to try to unscrew a Presta valve
> nut on a Slime tube, only to have the whole assembly unscrew
> because the Presta valve was tighter than the removable body
> that allows filling the tube with Slime at the factory.
>
> Whoosh!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Carl Fogel


Holy ****, he's back!
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
> bfd wrote:
> > Opps, that should be if you grease your threads, you should NOT have
> > any "seizing" going on.

>
> What about Tapirs?



You hold it down, I'll grease it.
 
On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 20:21:55 -0400, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>bfd wrote:
>> Opps, that should be if you grease your threads, you should NOT have
>> any "seizing" going on.

>
>What about Tapirs?


Technically, they aren't native to Grease.

They tend to be from Central and South America, and--to a lesser
degree--Southeast Asia.

YW.
 
On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 16:30:27 -0600, [email protected] wrote:

>On 18 Apr 2006 13:47:14 -0700, [email protected]
>wrote:
>
>>Starting with the pedals of course?

>
>Dear Michael,
>
>Apart from fasteners, like the steel pedals that someone
>forgot to coat with anti-seize before installing in aluminum
>cranks, bicycle parts don't seize in the more common sense
>of the word, which involves moving parts. Bike parts may
>wear and rattle, but they usually keep grinding along
>instead of seizing up.
>
>For a moving-part "seize" (as opposed to mere corrosion like
>pedals and seat posts), see tip #14 for motorcyclists
>planning to buzz along Scottish highways for a week on
>trials machines intended for walking speeds:
>
>"If you seize the piston, don't panic. Let the engine cool
>down a little and try and push the kick start down. If the
>kick-start is absolutely solid, you're in trouble!"
>
>http://www.ssdt.org/sitebody/modules/UploadIt/files/GasGas Pro Checklist.pdf
>
>A seat-post seized in a frame or a pedal seized in a crank
>just isn't the same as the pedal refusing to move when you
>stand on it.
>
>But to offer a bicycling example that may not otherwise be
>mentioned, it's annoying to try to unscrew a Presta valve
>nut on a Slime tube, only to have the whole assembly unscrew
>because the Presta valve was tighter than the removable body
>that allows filling the tube with Slime at the factory.
>
>Whoosh!
>
>Cheers,
>
>Carl Fogel



FOGELLLLLLL! FO-GEL! FO-GEL! FO-GEL!

Yee-haah, the wordslinger is *back*!


(Yes, Jobst, we know, *you* see no reason for jollity.)
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
landotter wrote:
> Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
>
>>bfd wrote:
>>
>>>Opps, that should be if you grease your threads, you should NOT have
>>>any "seizing" going on.

>>
>>What about Tapirs?

>
>
>
> You hold it down, I'll grease it.


Never try to teach^h^h^h^h^h grease a pig^h^h^ tapir to^h^h
sing^h^h^h^h, it wastes your time and it annoys the pig^h^h^h tapir.

Mark
 
landotter wrote:
> Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
> > bfd wrote:
> > > Opps, that should be if you grease your threads, you should NOT have
> > > any "seizing" going on.

> >
> > What about Tapirs?

>
>
> You hold it down, I'll grease it.


I'll help, we do not want our tapirs fretting.

-nate
 
Ho ho ho, all very hilarious of course, but suppose a new cyclist comes
back from the LBS with a lovely shiny new road bike, rides about in
less-than-perfect weather, then attemps some DIY maintenance, which
parts will be found to be seized first?

Or, to put it another way, if the same cyclist wanted to preempt later
difficulties what order should new bikes be disassembled, treated with
some type of anti-seize technology and reassembled?
 
Isn't that the job of the LBS? You're automatically assuming that the
LBS has done a poor job of assembling. A "lovely shiny new road bike"
from an LBS should have been properly assembled with the correct
grease/anti-seize. A properly assembled bike should easily be able to
withstand any "less-than-perfect weather."

IF not, find yourself a new LBS!
 
On 20 Apr 2006 13:00:46 -0700, [email protected]
wrote:

>
>Ho ho ho, all very hilarious of course, but suppose a new cyclist comes
>back from the LBS with a lovely shiny new road bike, rides about in
>less-than-perfect weather, then attemps some DIY maintenance, which
>parts will be found to be seized first?
>
>Or, to put it another way, if the same cyclist wanted to preempt later
>difficulties what order should new bikes be disassembled, treated with
>some type of anti-seize technology and reassembled?


Dear Michael,

Pedals and seat posts appear to be the most common
complaints on RBT about corrosion seizing.

Carbon seat posts and frames are an exception. Carbon fiber
doesn't get along with most of the greases that people
mistakenly use:

"Some greases may attack the resin; don't grease the
seatpost with anything that Specialized doesn't explicitly
endorse for that purpose."

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/ace0dda7fd68c82e

Cheers,

Carl Fogel
 
Bad whether does not in its self take too much of a toll on a bike. Normally
all that is needed is a hose down then a bit of oil here and there. But here
in the UK in winter the local authorities put loads of salt on the roads.
This makes winter mud quite aggressive. If you do not meticulously clean
your bike the first thing I find to go is the front mech. - either the mech.
itself sticks or the cable in the cableway under the bottom bracket sticks.
After that it is the rear mech., then the chain and the any low down exposed
cables. It very rarely gets this far as the first failure to shift on the
front mech. is my signal to give every thing a damn good clean and lube.

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Ho ho ho, all very hilarious of course, but suppose a new cyclist comes
> back from the LBS with a lovely shiny new road bike, rides about in
> less-than-perfect weather, then attemps some DIY maintenance, which
> parts will be found to be seized first?
>
> Or, to put it another way, if the same cyclist wanted to preempt later
> difficulties what order should new bikes be disassembled, treated with
> some type of anti-seize technology and reassembled?
>
 
[email protected] wrote:
> Ho ho ho, all very hilarious of course, but suppose a new cyclist comes
> back from the LBS with a lovely shiny new road bike, rides about in
> less-than-perfect weather, then attemps some DIY maintenance, which
> parts will be found to be seized first?
>
> Or, to put it another way, if the same cyclist wanted to preempt later
> difficulties what order should new bikes be disassembled, treated with
> some type of anti-seize technology and reassembled?
>


Aluminum quill stems are very prone to seizing from corrosion, seatposts
somewhat less. The solution is to clean and re-grease periodically.
 
[email protected] wrote:
> Starting with the pedals of course?


Pull the clutch in, turn off the engine and coast to a stop. Call for help.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training