I've noticed that one or two of the middle sprockets on the
back are looking a bit worn, and the middle chainring on
the front is missing a tooth somehow. Any ideas on what
getting it sorted at the bike shop is likely to cost (I'm
new to all this so lacking clue)? The gears are of the
cassette flavour.
UK and Europe · Public discussion
What's this liable to cost?
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- UK and Europe
- Published
- 11 March 2004
- Last activity
- 12 March 2004
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- Doki
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Doki said:
I've noticed that one or two of the middle sprockets on
the back are looking a bit worn, and the middle chainring
on the front is missing a tooth somehow. Any ideas on what
getting it sorted at the bike shop is likely to cost (I'm
new to all this so lacking clue)? The gears are of the
cassette flavour.Easier and cheaper to buy new cassette than individual
spockets. Cassette: £15 to £25 plus a few quid for fitting.
A new chain may be required as well: £6 - £13+.Chainring is more tricky. First of all, are you sure it's
really damaged - because they can have all sorts of half-
size and weirdly shaped teeth? New ones can cost anywhere
from £4 to £15 and beyond, and some can't be replaced at all
because they're riveted.It may not all need replacing yet. You've got three choices:
1. Carry on with everything. Might as well if either:
a) Chain & cogs aren't actually worn much yet* (chain
not elongated >
1/16"*) or
b) Whole lot including chainrings are already worse for
wear* (or if don't care about wearing chainrings).
note. Chain will eventually skip over the worn-out
sprocket teeth, possibly after further mileage into
four figures. Not a very dangerous practice, IMO,
because the first signs skipping will be slight - but
it is important to change parts promptly after that.2. Fit a new chain but keep cassette and chainrings. This
may be reasonable and possible if chain elongation is
between 1/16" and 1/8"*. New sprockets can always be
fitted afterwards if new chain skipped.3. Fit new cassette and chain (and chainrings if
necessary).* www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
~PB
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On Thu, 11 Mar 2004 23:23:47 -0000, in
<[email hidden]>, "Doki"Quoted message said:
I've noticed that one or two of the middle sprockets on the
back are looking a bit worn, and the middle chainring on
the front is missing a tooth somehow. Any ideas on what
getting it sorted at the bike shop is likely to cost (I'm
new to all this so lacking clue)? The gears are of the
cassette flavour.I may have completely misread a previous thread but wasn't
your bike new?--
DISCLAIMER: My email box is private property.Email which
appears in my inbox is mine to do what I like with. Anything
which is sent to me (whether intended or not) may, if I so
desire, form a legal and binding contract. -
On Thu, 11 Mar 2004 23:23:47 -0000, in
<[email hidden]>, "Doki"Quoted message said:
I've noticed that one or two of the middle sprockets on the
back are looking a bit worn, and the middle chainring on
the front is missing a tooth somehow. Any ideas on what
getting it sorted at the bike shop is likely to cost (I'm
new to all this so lacking clue)? The gears are of the
cassette flavour.I may have completely misread a previous thread but wasn't
your bike new?--
DISCLAIMER: My email box is private property.Email which
appears in my inbox is mine to do what I like with. Anything
which is sent to me (whether intended or not) may, if I so
desire, form a legal and binding contract. -
On Fri, 12 Mar 2004 20:02:44 -0000, in
<[email hidden]>, "Doki"Quoted message said:
If they do come with odd shaped teeth, does it matter if
it's missing one? I've not really looked closely at it, but
it certainly isn't bent. If they are riveted together,
what's to stop me swapping the duff one and riveting it all
back together?Some chainrings, as Pete said, are intentionally bent
sideways or shorter than the adjacent ones. This is to
assist smooth shifting (something I think to do with lifting
the chain of the teeth rather than simply dragging it
sideways).There are a couple of things that will stop you replacing
the duff one and re-rivetting:1) You will probably not be able to buy a single chainring
of the type intended to be sold as a pre-rivetted set.
However, I don't know this for certain.2) Would you be able to guarantee that you would rivet it
back together exactly centrally?I myself would certainly either buy a new rivetted set or I
would take the opportunity to upgrade to a new chainset that
is of the bolt-together type. This will make future upgrades
easier and you will possibly find that as you really get the
cycling bug you'll be thinking along the lines of "Hmmmm I
need a bigger bombing gear so I'll buy a bigger outer ring,
but I want to lug loads of heavy luggage up steep hills so
maybe I'll buy a smaller inner ring, but Hmmm then that
creates some duplicate gear ratios so if I replace the
middle ring with something 2 teeth bigger then it'll all be
ticketty-boo".Quoted message said:
I'll let it slide until I've got some decent lights then. I
assume swapping entire cassettes and so on is simple
enough? It's not like I'm riding a hundred miles a week.Simple, yes. You will need a few tools tho: A cassette
lockring remover (few quid from Halfords), chain whip (few
more quid from halfords (or a cheaper option is an oil
filter wrench from a car spares shop)), and a nice big
adjustable spanner.HTH Rich x
--
DISCLAIMER: My email box is private property.Email which
appears in my inbox is mine to do what I like with. Anything
which is sent to me (whether intended or not) may, if I so
desire, form a legal and binding contract.
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