What Tires do u use on the velodrome???

[Billsworld]

Tufo 135g tubulars. Super light, super high psi, and they don't break the bank. You can even go as low as 110g/tire. Roll smoothly and feel nice and preductable. Don't like the Conti supersonics because the have a slippery tread. Had my front wheel wrench sideways on my during a sprint in a banking at full throttle. the tires are so slippery I didn't even lose my line on the track following the guys. Kinda scary.

I just glued on conti podiums. Did I mess up?

 

[Woofer]

I just glued on conti podiums. Did I mess up?

If you are riding at a asphalt or concrete velodrome - Florida or T-Town from your other posts, you can use anything and you are not going to slip.

 

[Billsworld]

If you are riding at a asphalt or concrete velodrome - Florida or T-Town from your other posts, you can use anything and you are not going to slip.

Thanks woofer. That helps

 

[Billsworld]

If you are riding at a asphalt or concrete velodrome - Florida or T-Town from your other posts, you can use anything and you are not going to slip.

I have another prob. I recently bought a set of track wheels with a powertap. Tubulars with the podiums as mentioned. I have never used tubulars before and had my bike shop glue them on. Power #s seem the same as the PT on my road bike. Problem. I have a nice dead flat road that I use for sprints. The road bike with 175 cranks and 80.8" gear top speed in that gear is 37.5@ 156 rpm....Jump from about 27 mph . Same conditions with the track bike with new wheels, jump from about same speed. Top speed and cadence however are 34.5 141 rpm from a 165(just changed from 170) cranks and 46x15 =81" I expected 40mph and about 165 rpm. Both tests were only a few weeks apart under similar conditions I noticed that the rear tire has some very noticable high and low spots. Is that the problem, and does that go away as the tire gets some use? Thanks BP (Sorry for the personal perf data)

 

[velodrome.co.nr]

as less grip as possible, bordering on bald tires

 

[Woofer]

I have another prob. I recently bought a set of track wheels with a powertap. Tubulars with the podiums as mentioned. I have never used tubulars before and had my bike shop glue them on. Power #s seem the same as the PT on my road bike. Problem. I have a nice dead flat road that I use for sprints. The road bike with 175 cranks and 80.8" gear top speed in that gear is 37.5@ 156 rpm....Jump from about 27 mph . Same conditions with the track bike with new wheels, jump from about same speed. Top speed and cadence however are 34.5 141 rpm from a 165(just changed from 170) cranks and 46x15 =81" I expected 40mph and about 165 rpm. Both tests were only a few weeks apart under similar conditions I noticed that the rear tire has some very noticable high and low spots. Is that the problem, and does that go away as the tire gets some use? Thanks BP (Sorry for the personal perf data)

re: difference in numbers - do the stomp test with both powertap wheels to verify the factory calibration. It can be very difficult to match what one can do on a geared bike in a sprint in that small of a gear right away. Lots of tubular tires are not round - they don't get better after a while. Are you sure it's not the wheel? I've used Vittoria, Tufo and Continental tubulars and Continentals typically were the worst with the hops.

 

[Billsworld]

as less grip as possible, bordering on bald tires

I registered, but as far as pure track info ,Fixed gear fever is better. You get elite and masters trackies as well as Andrew Coggin giving input on training info. This site has some of the same cast of characters for road , track and mtb. Not being critical just my 2 cents

 

[velodrome.co.nr]

ok thats great thanks
always welcome constructive critiscism, but just trying to help the guy aout with some advice.

 

[rickt]

I have another prob. I recently bought a set of track wheels with a powertap. Tubulars with the podiums as mentioned. I have never used tubulars before and had my bike shop glue them on. Power #s seem the same as the PT on my road bike. Problem. I have a nice dead flat road that I use for sprints. The road bike with 175 cranks and 80.8" gear top speed in that gear is 37.5@ 156 rpm....Jump from about 27 mph . Same conditions with the track bike with new wheels, jump from about same speed. Top speed and cadence however are 34.5 141 rpm from a 165(just changed from 170) cranks and 46x15 =81" I expected 40mph and about 165 rpm. Both tests were only a few weeks apart under similar conditions I noticed that the rear tire has some very noticable high and low spots. Is that the problem, and does that go away as the tire gets some use? Thanks BP (Sorry for the personal perf data)

As a coach of numerous National Track Champions in the past, and a tracky myself, I should point out that if you have not become familiar with the shorter crank length you will initially have difficulty being efficient in your pedal action and you won't develope your potential output until you are firing the nerves in the right timing. The nervous system of the body is a little like the ignition system of a car. If the timing isn't perfect, neither car or person will function optimally. In our case, if you have only ever trained on longer cranks your nervous system fires the muscles at the appropriate angle for those cranks. Shorter cranks require different timing because the angles through which your limbs travel are different. You simply need to get used to the shorter cranks by constantly training on them before you make any comparisons. To use myself as an example, I have very short thighs and as a result I decided to experiment with 160mm cranks (specially made) after having used 165mm cranks for 27 years prior to that. It took me about 12 months to smooth out the pedal action to a point where I could get plenty of RPM's. It shouldn't take the average cyclist that long to aclimatise, but I am notoriously lazy in the training department. I am kicking myself that I didn't chase up the shorter cranks when I was really fit and only 25 years old. Now, at 44 yrs and not as fit, (but with the shorter cranks) I am pulling out better track TT times than ever, and my flying 200 is the same as when I was 25.

 

[Billsworld]

As a coach of numerous National Track Champions in the past, and a tracky myself, I should point out that if you have not become familiar with the shorter crank length you will initially have difficulty being efficient in your pedal action and you won't develope your potential output until you are firing the nerves in the right timing. The nervous system of the body is a little like the ignition system of a car. If the timing isn't perfect, neither car or person will function optimally. In our case, if you have only ever trained on longer cranks your nervous system fires the muscles at the appropriate angle for those cranks. Shorter cranks require different timing because the angles through which your limbs travel are different. You simply need to get used to the shorter cranks by constantly training on them before you make any comparisons. To use myself as an example, I have very short thighs and as a result I decided to experiment with 160mm cranks (specially made) after having used 165mm cranks for 27 years prior to that. It took me about 12 months to smooth out the pedal action to a point where I could get plenty of RPM's. It shouldn't take the average cyclist that long to aclimatise, but I am notoriously lazy in the training department. I am kicking myself that I didn't chase up the shorter cranks when I was really fit and only 25 years old. Now, at 44 yrs and not as fit, (but with the shorter cranks) I am pulling out better track TT times than ever, and my flying 200 is the same as when I was 25.

Wow, I hadnt thought of that. I do some high cadence work in 42x17 and 42 x19 gears. I can work in the 185-195 range with the 175s on the road (and on the road bike)recently held 30 mph in the 19 for about 12-15 secs. .Historicly i am slightly faster on the fixed. Should I scrap the experiment and just go with what I had ? Thanks Bill P

 

[WarrenG]

Wow, I hadnt thought of that. I do some high cadence work in 42x17 and 42 x19 gears. I can work in the 185-195 range with the 175s on the road (and on the road bike)recently held 30 mph in the 19 for about 12-15 secs. .Historicly i am slightly faster on the fixed. Should I scrap the experiment and just go with what I had ? Thanks Bill P

Since your track riding will be relatively limited I suggest you use cranks that are fairly close to what you use on the road for the majority of your training and racing. Mostly for the reasons mentioned by rickt. With the longer crank arms you might also get a bit more leverage during your accelerations. Regardless, it will make your transitions from road to track and back again, easier. I have my seat and bars set fairly close to equal on both bikes too, except for major track events. FWIW, I use 175's on the road and 170 on the track. The 170 length causes me no problems on a 48 degree banking. (BB height is a factor too.)

 

[Billsworld]

Since your track riding will be relatively limited I suggest you use cranks that are fairly close to what you use on the road for the majority of your training and racing. Mostly for the reasons mentioned by rickt. With the longer crank arms you might also get a bit more leverage during your accelerations. Regardless, it will make your transitions from road to track and back again, easier. I have my seat and bars set fairly close to equal on both bikes too, except for major track events. FWIW, I use 175's on the road and 170 on the track. The 170 length causes me no problems on a 48 degree banking. (BB height is a factor too.)

Thank you Warren. I am going back to the 170s. Seems like a happy medium. Thanks as usual Bill P

 

[Lasalles]

The beauty of 170 cranks is you grab an old set of Campag road cranks,grind the inside lip off where the 39/42 tooth road chainring would normally go,grab some shorter track studs and bang you have a cheap set of track cranks perfect for miche track chainrings.I had my set sitting on a bbq table for about 18months before i discovered they were the same pcd as miche.

 

[Billsworld]

The beauty of 170 cranks is you grab an old set of Campag road cranks,grind the inside lip off where the 39/42 tooth road chainring would normally go,grab some shorter track studs and bang you have a cheap set of track cranks perfect for miche track chainrings.I had my set sitting on a bbq table for about 18months before i discovered they were the same pcd as miche.

I seem to be totaly distracted every time I read one of your posts...did you say something?