What to do when in-between frame sizes?



jojoma

New Member
Sep 7, 2007
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When I was measured for my Specialized Roubaix at the LBS a couple years ago, I just barely made it into the 54 frame size. So I got the 54, and since then have even gotten another Roubaix in a 54.

For the most part, I have enjoyed these bikes a lot, but I'm wondering if I should drop down to a 52 for my next bike. With the 54, the stand-over clearance is ok (couple inches), but I use a 90 stem and move the seat all the way up so it's more comfortable in the drops.

Any thoughts on these tweener situations?
 
jojoma said:
When I was measured for my Specialized Roubaix at the LBS a couple years ago, I just barely made it into the 54 frame size. So I got the 54, and since then have even gotten another Roubaix in a 54.

For the most part, I have enjoyed these bikes a lot, but I'm wondering if I should drop down to a 52 for my next bike. With the 54, the stand-over clearance is ok (couple inches), but I use a 90 stem and move the seat all the way up so it's more comfortable in the drops.

Any thoughts on these tweener situations?

I think it's time to look at other frames, too.
 
Your seat fore/aft location should be positioned in with regard to your pelvis/thigh/foot dimensions in relation to the crank, not the reach to the bars.

If you are putting your seat forward to compensate for bar reach, the top tube may be too long for your torso/arm dimensions.

You might want to try that 52cm size if the top tube is shorter and gives you the reach that matches your body and preferred riding positions.
 
Get fitted by another shop, a good one. You should not have had to change anything set up wise to be comfortable. Beisdes you move the handle bars to make the reach more comfortable, not the saddle.

Strikes me you are running a fairly long stem for a smaller frame.

Ride a few other bikes. Roubaix has not developed much beyond the SL2 recently.

I'd have a look at the super 6 and madones. Both have a good range of sizes not too different to the Roubaixs (well in the largers sizes where I fit they are similarish), and ride nicely. Bit more nimble in the handling, more racy.

Might be some good deals for 2008 stock.
 
Phill P said:
Strikes me you are running a fairly long stem for a smaller frame.
Not sure how you figure that out. The OP said he was using a 90mm. IMHO, having to use anything shorter than 100mm suggests he could perhaps be investigating a smaller frame, if one can be found without excessive saddle-bar drop. (Especially as he has had to move the saddle forward as well to get comfortable).
 
scirocco said:
Not sure how you figure that out. The OP said he was using a 90mm. IMHO, having to use anything shorter than 100mm suggests he could perhaps be investigating a smaller frame, if one can be found without excessive saddle-bar drop. (Especially as he has had to move the saddle forward as well to get comfortable).
I am 5' 10" and ride a 55cm Lemond Buenos Aires. My cycling inseam is 34inches, which is rather long for my height. The only way I've been able to fit on a frame, without excessive saddle-to-bar drop is to go with a size 55cm coupled with a 90mm stem. The fit has been perfect. I ride 150miles per week and I do not have any aches or complaints aside the regular muscle soreness from riding bikes over a long distance.

Super
 
I really only focus on top tube length. Having the proper knee alignment over the spindle, but not feeling to hunched over or too stretched is more important than stand over height. Seriously, is stand over height that big a deal on a road bike? As long as there's some room, who cares. Now on a cross or MTB bike i can see the importance, but when I stop on my road bike, I'm usually leaning to one side anyway. I would opt for the larger of the 2 frames, or better yet as Alienator suggests, look at other frames.
 
If you like the bike in 54, why do you feel compelled to change?

When you say you have moved the seat all the way up, do you mean in height, or all the way forward?
 
dgregory57 said:
If you like the bike in 54, why do you feel compelled to change?

When you say you have moved the seat all the way up, do you mean in height, or all the way forward?
I moved the seat all the way forward, so the reach to the bars is easier.

I'm ok with the 54, but the 52 might feel even better. And the Roubaix has a slightly longer wheel base than a standard race frame, so it feels "boat" like at times. Plus, I heard that a smaller frame is stiffer, and I'm assuming it's a touch lighter due to less material.
 
jojoma said:
I moved the seat all the way forward, so the reach to the bars is easier.

I'm ok with the 54, but the 52 might feel even better. And the Roubaix has a slightly longer wheel base than a standard race frame, so it feels "boat" like at times. Plus, I heard that a smaller frame is stiffer, and I'm assuming it's a touch lighter due to less material.

Whoa, sailor: you're going about things all wrong. Do NOT use saddle position to alter your reach. You use saddle position to find the correct position over the BB, i.e. the position that works for your legs and knees. Changing saddle position to improve reach is a great way to bung up your knees or, if nothing else, use a lot more energy than necessary. You'll find that sliding the saddle past the optimal position for your legs will increase the load on your arms causing increased fatique, and it will potentially cause problems for your neck and back. If you have to slide the saddle forward to have acceptable reach, then you either have the wrong stem length, handlebars with too much reach, a frame that is too large, or all of the above.

Let me repeat the important nugget: do not try to fix reach problems by moving your saddle forward.

As for the "boat" feeling on the Roubaix. What you feel has very little to do with wheelbase but is instead a function of trail, head angle, and fork offset. Note that the Roubaix was never claimed to be a crit bike. With that said though, that doesn't mean that it can't be a crit bike. Given it's geometry, I wouldn't expect it to border on twitchy or dive into a corner with the slightest steering input. I would expect it to hold a line very well, though, especially over the bumpy nasties mid corner. Whether those traits work for someone or not is completely a matter of personal preference. It's steering characteristics won't cost you a race, though.

Less weight with a smaller frame? Technically moving to a smaller frame in a given model range will result in a lower bike weight, but frankly, having a good fart before a race will have a bigger effect on performance. That very small change of weight going from a 54 to a 52 won't make a bit of difference, unless the race clock has a precision to hundreths or millionths of a second.

Stiffer? Again, technically, maybe, but will it make a difference? Given that there have been absolutely zero studies that have shown that a stiffer bike has a performance advantage, I'd, again, worry more about de-gassing than bike stiffness. The stiffness difference between a 54 and a 52 in the same model range is likely very, very small. The difference in energy loss is vanishingly small.

What you should be looking for is a frame that with the saddle positioned so that your knees are in the optimal position, for you, over the pedals, the reach is correct for you. Don't worry about the frame weight. Don't spend an attosecond worrying or pondering frame stiffness. Most importantly, once the fit constraints are met, the next most important thing is that your groinal regions flush with pleasurable blood flow when you ride the bike. Outside of those two things, and your own aesthetic values, there's sod all left to worry about.
 
SUPER RIDER said:
I am 5' 10" and ride a 55cm Lemond Buenos Aires. My cycling inseam is 34inches, which is rather long for my height. The only way I've been able to fit on a frame, without excessive saddle-to-bar drop is to go with a size 55cm coupled with a 90mm stem. The fit has been perfect. I ride 150miles per week and I do not have any aches or complaints aside the regular muscle soreness from riding bikes over a long distance.

Super
+2 Ditto: I am 5'11 with a 34" inseam and I ride a 54cm Orbea with a 90mm stem. It is perfect. Definately make sure the fore-aft seat and height position and crank length are adjusted based on your lower body - leg, foot, knee efficiency and comfort/fit. Reach, upper body - lower back, shoulders, elbows, and arm fit are related to top tube, stem and handlebar dimensions. I seconf Alienators warnings about moving the saddle too far forward -- if you have to do that, drop to the smaller frame.
As Alienator says as well different manufacturers have different dimensions for the same "size" bike. That is why trying them out is so important. I took me a while to hone in on the right frame, stem, handlebar width, etc as well...
 
geoinmillbrook said:
+2 Ditto: I am 5'11 with a 34" inseam and I ride a 54cm Orbea with a 90mm stem. It is perfect. Definately make sure the fore-aft seat and height position and crank length are adjusted based on your lower body - leg, foot, knee efficiency and comfort/fit. Reach, upper body - lower back, shoulders, elbows, and arm fit are related to top tube, stem and handlebar dimensions. I seconf Alienators warnings about moving the saddle too far forward -- if you have to do that, drop to the smaller frame.
As Alienator says as well different manufacturers have different dimensions for the same "size" bike. That is why trying them out is so important. I took me a while to hone in on the right frame, stem, handlebar width, etc as well...
+1 - you stated the obvious. could you please give the the exact dimensions of your frame etc, or refer me to the website I can see them, thanks a lot.
is your Orbea compact?
 
ibi-m said:
+1 - you stated the obvious. could you please give the the exact dimensions of your frame etc, or refer me to the website I can see them, thanks a lot.
is your Orbea compact?
Maybe so but you will be surprised what people will do to their bikes, or worse yet, what some not-so-skilled LBS salesmen/women will put you on (usually what they stock). And then they charge and arm and a leg to switch out stems, handlebars etc -- at least around here. Which is why I am assembling all my own from parts.

Here is a site for the Orbea geometry I have:
http://agouracycles.com/itemdetails.cfm?action=feature&ID=10838&features=28497

Orbea calls it a "semi-compact".
This is the 3ed bike I have fitted up in different frame sizes, crank lengths, stem and handlebar sizes and finally have it tweaked just right. I made a common mistake and bought frames too big for me based on my previous experiences riding a lot in the 1980's. They were rideable but not optimum. After 15 -20 miles my arms or hands would go numb, or knees would hurt, etc. When you start riding 100+ miles a week it really makes a difference having it fit just right.
 

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