what to look for with respect to fitment?



ccrnnr9

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May 5, 2004
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I am still pretty new to bikes in the sense that I am not familiar with what to look for. I have been to a lot of bike shops but this is useless when I am not sure what makes one bike better for me than another. I hear a lot of guys say "buy whatever fits you best" but I am confused as to what I should look for. I hear something different from every LBS so Im not sure what to buy. I currently ride an entry level sora bike and I want to spend enough that I am not just jumping one step above my current bike but still want to stay under my budget of around 1400$ for just the bike. I plan to buy some shimano pedals and some nice aero bars as well. Just as a note, this will be my first season racing for my college team and in the summer I plan to race for a team back home. I would like a bike that will be my all in one bike (workhouse, racing bike, etc)...I wish I could afford two bikes but Im a college student on a budget. Here are some questions I have some up with that I cant find answers to just by searching on the forums:

1. What is the difference between a normal double crank and compact crank?
2. Should I worry about the crank arm lengths or is that something that I wont have a choice on in my price range?
3. What main things should I look for when I hop on a bike for a test ride? Just because something is comfortable, does that mean it is the best fit for me?
4. How much should bike weight facor into my decision?
5. Should my priority be on the frame, wheels, shifters/dereilleurs, etc?
6. The bike that I am most interested in (Orbea Volatta) comes with Campy Mirage (9spd). Should having a 10spd be that much of a priority?
7. In my price range, are most of the bikes going to be of similar quality?

I know those are a lot of questions, but I really want this purchase to be made with no regrets. More than have people recomend bikes to look at (although that is very helpful), I would like to know what to look for. Any help would be appreciated!
~Nick

P.S. I do not want to buy a bike online unless there is a way for me to ride that particular make/model first.
 
ccrnnr9 said:
I am still pretty new to bikes in the sense that I am not familiar with what to look for. I have been to a lot of bike shops but this is useless when I am not sure what makes one bike better for me than another. I hear a lot of guys say "buy whatever fits you best" but I am confused as to what I should look for. I hear something different from every LBS so Im not sure what to buy. I currently ride an entry level sora bike and I want to spend enough that I am not just jumping one step above my current bike but still want to stay under my budget of around 1400$ for just the bike. I plan to buy some shimano pedals and some nice aero bars as well. Just as a note, this will be my first season racing for my college team and in the summer I plan to race for a team back home. I would like a bike that will be my all in one bike (workhouse, racing bike, etc)...I wish I could afford two bikes but Im a college student on a budget. Here are some questions I have some up with that I cant find answers to just by searching on the forums:

1. What is the difference between a normal double crank and compact crank?
2. Should I worry about the crank arm lengths or is that something that I wont have a choice on in my price range?
3. What main things should I look for when I hop on a bike for a test ride? Just because something is comfortable, does that mean it is the best fit for me?
4. How much should bike weight facor into my decision?
5. Should my priority be on the frame, wheels, shifters/dereilleurs, etc?
6. The bike that I am most interested in (Orbea Volatta) comes with Campy Mirage (9spd). Should having a 10spd be that much of a priority?
7. In my price range, are most of the bikes going to be of similar quality?

I know those are a lot of questions, but I really want this purchase to be made with no regrets. More than have people recomend bikes to look at (although that is very helpful), I would like to know what to look for. Any help would be appreciated!
~Nick

P.S. I do not want to buy a bike online unless there is a way for me to ride that particular make/model first.

Here is what you need to know about fit: You have a specific leg-length. That sets your seat height and setback relative to the cranks and also sets your optimum crank length. Fortunately unless you are unusually tall or short, the typical crank length on a bike fits the majority of riders. The next thing is your upper body and arm length plus your core strength and flexibility determine how much you can be tucked forward while still remaining comfortable. This setting is adjusted by the length of top tube and stem length/rise. Unless you are unusually-shaped you likely will fall in the 80% of people who can be properly fit on a standard frame. A good bike shop will tell you these things. A very good bike shop will have a fitter that will measure you and custom fit you to a particular bike.

I learned about fit as a middle-aged adult, coming from a recreational ride perspspective for most of my life. I had gotten into riding regularly and learned a bit about proper fit from reading an article at some point. I found a local bike shop that offered custom fitting for a set price which could be applied toward the purchase of a bike. I just wanted the fit and it was well-worth the cost. My fitting consisted of multiple body measurements, stem change and cleat adjustment of my shoes. The first ride I had on my 2004 Giant OCR2 after being properly fit was like night and day. I had been bothered by neck pain, hand numbness and knee pain when riding more than 40 miles at a stretch. I was able to ride 50 miles on my properly-fitted bike and felt better at the end than I had just the day before when my bike was stock and I had adjusted it as best I could.

I found, for me, and the style of riding I do how important bike fit is. Since I like to ride long distances on one trip, the little details like seat setback and saddle tilt make a huge difference. Proper cleat angle and position eliminated knee problems for me. I was shown that the crank length was ok for my leg length. I had the proper stem length and angle which eliminated my kneck pain. Seat pain boils down (on long rides) to finding the right seat for my butt.

I've since gone to a custom frame since I'm in the 20% of people who are not properly fitted on a stock frame. For me, my upper torso is not proportional to my leg length. Putting me on a stock frame with a very short stem put my body weight too far forward. On a custom frame the angles and top tube length are adjusted so I am balanced on the frame.

Proper fit affects maximum power transfer. If you are into racing, then being properly fit can make the difference between winning and losing. Pro racers are custom fit to their bikes for that reason. Proper fit affects recreational riders like me in that it balances my body on the bike in an optimum way. I can ride the long distances with the least effort and pain due to proper fit.
 
ccrnnr9 said:
I am still pretty new to bikes in the sense that I am not familiar with what to look for. I have been to a lot of bike shops but this is useless when I am not sure what makes one bike better for me than another. I hear a lot of guys say "buy whatever fits you best" but I am confused as to what I should look for. I hear something different from every LBS so Im not sure what to buy. I currently ride an entry level sora bike and I want to spend enough that I am not just jumping one step above my current bike but still want to stay under my budget of around 1400$ for just the bike. I plan to buy some shimano pedals and some nice aero bars as well. Just as a note, this will be my first season racing for my college team and in the summer I plan to race for a team back home. I would like a bike that will be my all in one bike (workhouse, racing bike, etc)...I wish I could afford two bikes but Im a college student on a budget. Here are some questions I have some up with that I cant find answers to just by searching on the forums:

1. What is the difference between a normal double crank and compact crank?
2. Should I worry about the crank arm lengths or is that something that I wont have a choice on in my price range?
3. What main things should I look for when I hop on a bike for a test ride? Just because something is comfortable, does that mean it is the best fit for me?
4. How much should bike weight facor into my decision?
5. Should my priority be on the frame, wheels, shifters/dereilleurs, etc?
6. The bike that I am most interested in (Orbea Volatta) comes with Campy Mirage (9spd). Should having a 10spd be that much of a priority?
7. In my price range, are most of the bikes going to be of similar quality?

I know those are a lot of questions, but I really want this purchase to be made with no regrets. More than have people recomend bikes to look at (although that is very helpful), I would like to know what to look for. Any help would be appreciated!
~Nick

P.S. I do not want to buy a bike online unless there is a way for me to ride that particular make/model first.
1) Compact cranks have smaller chainrings than a normal crank does and they're mainly meant for people who spend a lot of time in the hills since not many people can push a 53t chainring going up a hill. Compact chainrings-50/36 Regular chainrings-53/39
2) The crank arm length is something that will be checked by the bikeshop's sales rep or technician IF they are doing a proper fit for you.
3) You probably won't be able to feel too many things on a 15 minute test ride that you would feel after a 4 or 5 hour ride. Once again, making sure everything is set up properly for you is usually the responsibilty of the shop employees. A good shop will have a body scan machine to take some measurements and give a printout of your ideal frame size, saddle height, seat setback and tilt, stem length, and roll of the bars. Afterwards it should all be double checked by an experienced shop employee with you riding the bike on a stationary trainer.
4) The lighter the bike, the less work you have to do to move it. Obviously, a few grams won't make too much difference, but if theres over a half a pound of extra weight you may notice it. Anything in the $1400 range will be MUCH lighter than a low end, full sora bike.
5) You should really try to find a happy median as far as the frame, wheels, and component set go. Most bikes in the $1400 range will probably be a 105 groupset, possibly with an ultegra rear derailleur, if its shimano. I don't know what campagnolo's equivalent is to the 105 line, so I can't help you there. Frames on bike in that price range will either be full aluminum, or aluminum with carbon stays. That is more preference than anything.
6) I run an 8 speed cassette and rarely use more than 4 or 5 of the cogs, unless I'm doing a steeper climb, so no 10 speed is not necessary. There are a lot of people that run 9 speed instead of 10 simply because it's cheaper and many people don't really NEED to have 10 speeds.
7)Yes, many of the bikes will be similar in your price range. The big difference will most likely be in component brands, ex: shimano vs. campagnolo or bontrager vs. ritchey.

Hope that helped.
 
ccrnnr9 said:
1. What is the difference between a normal double crank and compact crank?

Compact cranks are double chainring cranks with a BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter - the imaginary circle that intersects the centers of the chainring bolts with the center of the circle being the crank's center) of 110mm as opposed to 130mm or 135mm for normal dble cranks. This means fitment of chainrings as small as 36t combined with an outer ring of say 48-50t normally. Compact cranks have become popular substitute over normal 3ple cranks because they can virtually match gear ratios provided by 3ple with the added benefit of weighing less and better chinline.
 
ccrnnr9 said:
1. What is the difference between a normal double crank and compact crank?

Compact cranks are double chainring cranks with a BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter - the imaginary circle that intersects the centers of the chainring bolts with the center of the circle being the crank's center) of 110mm as opposed to 130mm or 135mm for normal dble cranks. This means fitment of chainrings as small as 36t combined with an outer ring of say 48-50t normally. Compact cranks have become popular substitute over normal 3ple cranks because they can virtually match gear ratios provided by 3ple with the added benefit of weighing less and better chainline.
 
Thanks for all the help guys! That really helps. I think I may look into paying to have myself have one of those fitment tests. It sounds like it would be a great idea. If I get those measurements and then find a bike whose frame fits those measurements, can I rest assured that the bike should/will fit correctly and be comfortable or is there still a reason to ride each bike specifically? O and just as a point of reference. Most of the bikes in my price range are 105 10spd with the occasional ultegra 10spd bike from last years models. I am also looking at a few Campy mirage and veloce bikes. I thought of one more question: As far as wheels go, in my price range are there any companies I should stay away from? I have seen mavic, easton, shimano, bontrager, and campy wheels. It seems like all of those are well-established companies.
~Nick
 
ccrnnr9 said:
Thanks for all the help guys! That really helps. I think I may look into paying to have myself have one of those fitment tests.
Many shops include a bike fit in the price of the bike.
 

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