What wheels are you riding on?

Discussion in 'Clydesdales 200lb / 90kg + riders' started by wilwood, Jan 3, 2010.

  1. wilwood

    wilwood New Member

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    At the end of this year it was time for a new pair of wheels for me. I have been riding on a pair of Williams 30X (20 front 24 rear) for the last 3 years and have been very happy with them but time for a change. I started looking at carbon as an everyday wheel; I read all the specs and forums I could find on the net and manufactures web sites to find weight limits (I’m at 205lbs) for their wheels with some luck but came to a decision that now is not the time for carbon as an everyday wheel. (My currant ride is a Madone 5.5) I decided to build a set of DT Swiss 1.2’s with 240 hubs with a 28 spoke front 2x and a 32 spoke rear 3x.
    I was just wondering what type of wheels other Clydesdales are riding on?
    :confused:
     
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  2. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    I don't think that 205 lbs. qualifies you as being a Clydesdale.

    Regardless, if you do a lot of climbing, then a 36h rear would be better -- however, I don't think that DT makes 36h hubs, but maybe they can be special ordered.

    If you don't do a lot of climbing, then a 32h wheel will certainly be adequate.

    FWIW. The only time I have laced a front wheel x2 is when I didn't have the longer spoke length readily available (I have a spoke threader and so shortening a spoke isn't a problem for me).

    If you are going to the effort of having the front wheel laced x2, then you may as well ask the wheelbuilder to lace the non-driveside x2, also.

    According to some (and, I agree), lacing the driveside x3 and the non-driveside x2 results in a non-driveside whose tension is closer to that on the driveside than if the non-driveside were also laced x3.

    Lacing the wheel x3 on the driveside & x2 on the non-driveside takes a little longer because the wheelbuilder needs to "figure out" what the lacing offset is ... but, once established, the rest of the process is the same.

    BTW. I'm apparently the ONLY person in this Forum who thinks that straight gauge spokes are better than double butted spokes ...

    I've been building my wheels for decades ... that, alone, means nothing.

    I will admit that I have used double butted spokes on more than one occasion in the past ... and, I even laced ONE rear wheel in the past few years with double butted spokes BUT it was a wheel with a symmetrical 'dish' AND I had some spokes that I would not otherwise have a wheel to use them one.
     
  3. woodmanr

    woodmanr New Member

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    I'm a big guy, 300lbs, and i was on OEM mavic cx-22. After two broken spokes, i decided to upgrade to a pair of Kysrium SL my friend wasn't using any more. the LBS recommended those wheels or i could go to a tandem wheel, which would be a lot heavier
     
  4. Sassonian

    Sassonian New Member

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    I've got a pair of DTSwiss 7.1 36hole rims laced to an Ultegra hub. Very strong and relatively light. ( I race on this setup )

    http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/1431560/1/Zinn?h=4ad77c

    Adrian
     
  5. rschleicher

    rschleicher New Member

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    I'm 240 lbs, and just got a new bike that came with Mavic Aksium's. They're supposedly pretty rugged, but only have 20 spokes (both front and rear). So far so good, but I'll see if I develop any problems over time. With any luck I'll have gotten a bit lighter by then....
     
  6. LordLeighGungie

    LordLeighGungie New Member

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    Nice choice.
    I reckon if you're not racing then reliability is your top priority.
    No point having a light wheel if you keep popping spokes.

    Properly built and stress relieved you should have no issues with that setup.
    I'm currently running Open Pros laced 3x (Straight gauge) to 32h ultegra hubs.
    This was about the best value for money when I built them over a year ago.
    I'd go the 240s in a heartbeat but at more than twice the price....
     
  7. pat5319

    pat5319 New Member

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    I have open pro 32' rims as well, built myself, have never had to true them after apx 1000 miles, I whiegh 255 lbs and used to be considered a very strong rider 'till I got old and fat. I used to think that 36' hole wheels were stronger than 32' until a former 7-11 team mech that worked the "giro" told me otherwise.

    I had a bad experience with a Bontrager rear wheel once, ( 20-24 spokes?), it kept going out of true and some spokes pulled out of the rim, after I got the replacement( warranty) I put a drop of Purple Locktite in each nipple - that wheel as stayed true with no issues for 1 or 2 thousand miles at least
     
  8. Jman

    Jman New Member

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    I'm 270 and have over 3,000 miles on my velocity deep v -- no problem
     
  9. pcrx

    pcrx New Member

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    I think a Velocity rim with 32 spokes is about as cost effective and strong as you can get.
     
  10. eric.weisz

    eric.weisz New Member

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    I recently replaced the rear wheel on my hybrid with a wheel with Velocity Dyad rims. It's a 36h Velocity Dyad built around a Deore LX hub made by Handspun w/ 135 mm spacing. It came highly recommended by some fellow clydes on another forums site. I got a good deal on it at AE Bike - $119, I believe, for the rear wheel. I've only put about 50 miles on it so far, but others reported hundreds to thousands of trouble-free miles.

    For general commuting and recreational use (like I do), most anyone, even a clyde, will be fine w/ just about any 36h wheel up front, since the rear takes the most abuse and carries the most weight. I've got an old MTB front wheel from a local bike co-op up front on mine. I've put about 2,000 miles since June.
     
  11. TheMadOne

    TheMadOne New Member

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    Let me put in a good word for the American Classic Hurricane wheels. I have almost 1500 mi on mine, and have dropped from 240 to 225 pounds along the way. I bought them with my 2010 Trek Madone 4.7, and swapped out the stock Bontrager Race wheels right out of the box. These are lighter at 1600g/set and stronger too with 32h/3x lacing. They also have a slightly wider rim, which lets you run 700c-25 tires for additional protection against snake bite flats. I don't worry about rough spots in the pavement, and they have stayed true. Price is very reasonable as well.
     
  12. Wlfdg

    Wlfdg New Member

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    I'm 235lbs. I have a set of 29r Ryhno Lites 32h w/ DT Swiss Onxy hubs. I run 40c Kenda Breakers. I ride a lot of dirt farm roads.
     
  13. dickg99

    dickg99 New Member

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    I'm at 195 lbs fully suited up and haven't had any problem popping spokes on my Bontrager RXL wheels (Madone 5.2 fully Dura Ace)...they're 18/20 spokes front/rear. But, the aluminum nipples do corrode and my LBS tells me this happens with all brands, so I had the wheels rebuilt with painted brass nipples...no problems yet but only 500 miles on them since the rebuilt. :cool:
     
  14. Turbo329

    Turbo329 New Member

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  15. TheMadOne

    TheMadOne New Member

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    Now that the winter training season is over, and since I have lost almost 20 lbs, I've gone on a weight and drag reduction kick before my double century. First on the agenda was a lighter and more aero front wheel. I found a leftover '09 American Classic Victory 30 at Outside Outfitters, which should visually match my '09 Hurricane rear. It is a little lighter, with fewer spokes that are radial laced and bladed. It was only $177 with free shipping, so that wasn't too painful. I'm sticking with the rear for now, because the next logical step should be a PowerTap--but that's a lot more painful.

    Next, I've picked some lighter, lower rolling resistance and slightly more aero tires to replace the 700x25 Maxxis Re-fuse tires I've been using. The Maxxi have gone over 1500mi with only one flat, and that was from a metal splinter I picked up on a boardwalk that would have punctured anything. I've decided to try the Vittoria Diamante Pro Lite II 700x23, which seems to have a reasonble balance of rolling resistance and durability. I'll ride with them for a month, and if I get <1 flat/200mi or so, I'll go with them.

    I did the math, and the difference between an average tire with Crr of 0.004, and a good tire @ 0.003 works out to 20W at my weight and pace. I will be riding somewhat under 200W average, so a >10% reduction in power at the same pace is huge. That could easily be the difference between hanging on to the back of the paceline, and falling off. As long as I don't lose more time fixing flats, of course.
     
  16. Turbo329

    Turbo329 New Member

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    I like your math. Good stuff. 1 flat/200mi ? You should be cranking that out within a week or two.

    I ride a lot in Central park early Sunday mornings. If you're up for a ride when it get's a little warmer let me know. I just noticed that you're in L.I.
     
  17. TheMadOne

    TheMadOne New Member

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    I'm planning to take the new tires on the Little Neck Triangle ride this Sat. (Triangle Cyclists). I'll ride out and meet them at Steel Hill Rd. This is a fast bunch, so I need all the help I can get. I have been coming into NYC to do computrainer sessions at Ride Brooklyn and enduranceWERX. Maybe I'll join you in C.P. soon.
     
  18. TheMadOne

    TheMadOne New Member

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    Well, here's a quick update on the changes. Did the triangle ride with the Vittoria tires on the Hurricane wheels, and did much better than on the same ride two weeks before. It was much warmer, and the pace was 20 mph vs. 18 mph last time, my heart rate was lower, and my perceived effort was less. Hung on a little longer before getting dropped, took a shortcut, got dropped again, then picked up the group again after they were stopped by a cop, and finished with them for the first time. Not sure how much of this was 2 more weeks of training, or the tires, but there was a definite improvement.

    Got the Victory front, and found it was 18 mm wide, not 22 mm as advertised, so I had to find a more suitable tire. Decided on the Zipp Tangente 700x21 as also having a balance of low rolling resistance and durability (and it has dimples too!). Took it on the triangle ride today. It was very cold, so the pace was a little slower than last week, and my heart rate was lower as well. This time I made it around without getting dropped (no traffic stop needed). I also did a lot more pulling. I only did a couple of easy 40 mi rides this week, so minimal training effect.

    I don't have a power meter, so I can't quantify the drag reduction. But it definitely seemed to help, even if it's mostly a placebo effect. I also got only one flat in 330 mi, and that was from a nasty piece of tempered glass that probably would have punctured anything--so far so good on that front.
     
  19. Major94

    Major94 New Member

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    Well Im 260lbs and I have the same wheels for 2 years. they are 700c stars spoke wheels. Really light. The only problem I had was I jumped a curb to avoid being hit, and broke 2 spokes on the front. and nothing on the rear.
     
  20. rkwaki

    rkwaki New Member

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    Good morning. Well as a returning rider it is nice to see a forum for Heavyweights.
    Stats - 5'11" and 238 pounds
    After getting hit again in 1994 I stopped road racing and hit the gym hard.
    My son expressed interest in racing so at 14 we got him a new bike (Specialized). Shortly thereafter I bought myself a BMC and have a few hundred miles on it and am loving it.
    The only issues I have had are handlebars (even the 44cm are not wide enough) but the bigger issue has been wheels.
    THe Eastons I got with it are like butter under me so I am currently having a set of DT Swiss 465's (32 Hole) 3 cross wheels built on Ultergra hubs (I use SRAM components).
    The problem that comes is not just based on weight but the power that comes with it - I squat 595, Deadlift 550, Leg Press (a whole bunch) AND have the experience and heart of a former Cat 1 roadracer.

    I am hoping that these wheels make a difference.
     
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