What wheels do you ride?

I was riding the standard Bontrager Race's that came on my Madone till today. I just switched to the DT Swiss RR1450 Mon Chasseral today. Will ride them tomorrow and see how they feel. Really excited about them.

What about you guys? What do you ride?

 

Currently, Kinlin rims, 24f/28r, laced with CX-Rays to White Industries H1 hubs.

 

mavic aksium race
mavic ksyrium equipe
easton vista sl

 

mavic aksium race
shimano rs10

 

my aksium stay true for 1 full year no wobble nothing ...
shimano wheel give me some bad time have to true those wheel after each ride ... !!!!!

 

Campy Barcelona (tubular) rims laced to Record hubs, 32 2x fr, 3x rear, DT Swiss 14/15 spokes.

 

C Record(1986 or so) laced to Campagnolo Delta XL, tubular, 36 hole, laced 3 cross. 14/15 rear, Revolutions front, built by me. 'Backup', same hubs laced to Mavic MachllCD. Winter wheels, Phil hubs laced DT 2.1.

 

Campy Scirocco G3 and Cosmic Carbone SSC

 

1980's vintage Shimano 105 hubs with alloy Wolber rims on the 1986 Centurion. Keeping it original.

2006 vintage Bontrager Race Lite on the 2003 Raleigh Competition. Daily rider, better wheels

1980's vintage Shimano 500AX hubs with alloy Weinman rims on the 1984 Raleigh Super Course. Keeping it original. See
avatar photo.

Early 1990's vintage Shimano 600 hubs with Sun rims on the late 1980's vintage Univega Viva Sport. Built up frame with full Shimano 600 group.....just prior to the redesignation to Ultegra. Looking for better rims.

1980's vintage SunTour Cyclone wheels with alloy Weinman rims on the 1980's vintage Lotus. Restoration still in progress.

Mongoose stock wheels and rims on the 2000 Mongoose MTB.

 

If your's keep going out of true, it's likely that they need to be completely de-tensioned and then have the spokes tensioned properly. It's not uncommon at all for factory built wheels to have uneven tension among the spokes, which causes things like spokes forever coming loose.

 

Training:

front wheel....Record hub on Open Pro 32 spokes 15/16 laced 3x
rear wheel.....PT hub (Elite+) on DT 1.2 32 spokes 14/15 laced 3x

Racing:

Mavic Cosmic Carbone w/PT hub (SL)

 

Best bike - ROL D'Huez (20 f, 24 r, DT Swiss aerolite)
Second bike - Shimano RS20 (good value for money, no probs so far after 8,000km, but heavy).

 

Just have Cosmic Carbone SSC.. It's great!

 

The Ksyrium SLs that came with the bike, and a set that I built up from customer discards--generic-looking ball-bearing hubs that are nevertheless pretty damned smooth, an Australian-looking semi-aero rim (probably a make-up by Velocity)up front, a Sun Assault in back, 32 14-gauge spokes on each. And yes, both sets are holding up fine.

 

Despite the Mavic rear hub, Cosmic Carbones are some of the most reliable wheels in existence. Great wheels.

 

A lot of people complain about the Mavic FTS-L rear hub, but I have not actually met someone who had problems with them. And I have met a lot of people riding Mavic wheels.

I have two Mavic wheelsets (Ksyrium ES and SSC) with the FTS-L rear hubs, and I really appreciate the ease of maintenance on these hubs. Also, the wheelsets have been uber reliable, which, in the final analysis, all that matters in a wheelset.

I am currently considering semi-deep aero wheels, and just for change, I have almost decided on a Shimano WH-7850-C50 clincher wheelset, otherwise would have gone for the Mavic Cosmic Carbones.

 

Bontrager Aeolus 5.0 carbon with PT in the rear.

 

Agree with your statement that reliability is all important, but I've been on two club rides when spokes popped in rear Mavic SL wheels and the riders were basically stuck on the road due to the severe warp that followed the failure. Since I actually do believe that reliability is basically all that matters, I don't ride expensive race wheels for my training, club rides and centuries.

The high-bling aero wheels that a couple of my buddies have are cool enough, and I understand why competitive TT or trialthletes would want them. But I don't feel the need to spend a lot of money on a wheelset that saves a handful of watts @ 25 mph, or saves 200 grams; that small advantage would be meaningless for the riding I do.