I use ProLink for my chain and white lithium grease for any non-sealed bearings and on bare cables. I also use white lithium grease on my seatposts and quill type stems.I use a silicone spray lubricant on all pivot points and to flush out my cable housings at the end of the season. For cleaning, I use a citrus degreaser for bearings, cups, and cones; and dish washing liquid in water for my frame. These are for steel and aluminum bikes. The lubricants and cleaners that you might use for CF and Titanium bikes may be different, as are some of the items that would be lubricated.Ag2rcycling said:what eqiupment and oils do you use
Resistorlead said:I haven't settled on a chain lube, but it will likely be a very light oil. I think the choice of chain lube depends on your riding conditions- dusty, wet etc. I tend to ride in nice weather and not very dirty locations. For ordinary bearings I use Chevron SRI which is a commercial grease made specifically for ball and rolling bearings. It's what many bearing manufacturers use for the "lifetime" fill in small and medium sized sealed bearings. I do routine external cleaning with WD-40. For bearing rebuilds and such I tend towards mineral spirits, toothbrush and sometimes a big ultrasonic cleaner. Armor-All and leather creme are also part of the kit.
SRI isn't idea for use in bicycles - it is great for high temp (150F+) and medium to high speed applications (10,000rpm). Sadly, no part of my bike rotates at 10,000rpm.
davereo said:.......Cassette cleaning trick. Save old shoe laces you can use them like dental floss to clean between the cogs. Just remove the wheel take the lace in two hands and pull it in between the cogs. By working back and forth you will clean between them as good as taking them apart.....
Resistorlead said:More training?
I'd never use WD-40 for any lubrication purpose, in fact I don't spray it at all. It's best as a dirt and grime remover on a rag, and super for spots of tar and stuff.
SRI can certainly handle low speeds as well, and clings to balls better than any of the white lithium greases I've seen. Open up a bunch of commercial bearings rated for any speed and the number packed with white lithiums will be about zero. That said, bicycle bearings have some significant differences in surface finish and rigidity compared to most machine bearings, so the "rules" may well be different. Normally a ball bearing grease will never contain moly or Teflon. It's main function is more to protect the parts from corrosion and keep them clean than to lubricate any serious sliding action- ball skidding is to be avoided like the plague. I don't know if EP additives buy much. It's properties will be different than common chassis greases- IMO, almost anything you can buy in an auto store is a bad choice. For years hubs were simply oiled- remember the center clip and hole? For 40 years I've adjusted bearings for zero to slight clearance. As a (very) heavy rider, I'm trying some new things- lighter clinging grease and a slight preload, so we'll see what results. If I'm suddenly replacing a bunch of cones and such, I'll report back!
I agree that taking the cassette apart is a simple task which I do when nessasary. The shoe lace trick does work when taking into account that someone may not have the tools or ability to disassemble.alienator said:Meh. If my cassette really needs cleaning, I take it apart. It's simple and doesn't take long.
I am open to any ideas you may have about products and methods for cleaning.alienator said:Car wash? Bad idea. Unless you're a mechanic for a pro team and you have bountiful replacement bearings at your disposal, high pressure water is not the best choice for bike cleaning.
davereo said:I am open to any ideas you may have about products and methods for cleaning.
SDMichael said:WD-40 is more of a degreaser than anything -- won't stick to the metal parts and will wash away the preexisting lube.
I use ProLink ProGold for my chain -- magical stuff. It works wonders in these conditions in San Diego, we're basically a desert community with lots of dirt and sand on the roads. PL PG after every ride makes it magically disappear.
I use white auto parts grease for screws, pedal/crank interfaces, etc.
For cleaning, car wash soap in a bucket of water, with a simple rag. No reason to go crazy with a pressure hose; just get the major grime off the frame and use a chain scrubber thingy (like the Park Tools one) once every 2 or 3 months. Of course you then have to relube it with ProLink ProGold!
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.