Wheel Advice



wc07

New Member
Jan 29, 2011
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Just got my first road bike (hand me down from friends father) and he didn't know much about the bike. He didn't take the best care of it. Anyway, I'm trying to look around for decent entry level wheels that won't burn my wallet. I'm not opposed to going to the LBS, but would rather do so with some knowledge and not look like a complete noob. The bike has Alex RP15F wheels on it now. I have a Shimano Idex System (7 speed) and that affects what wheels I can put on the bike right? What are some recommendations? Will I have to buy new tires and tubes too?

Thanks ahead of time
 
Big questions are:
- what are you hoping to achieve, why do you think that you need new wheels?

Are the wheels you have broken, bent? Aren't spinning smoothly?

Or are you hoping to go faster? First step on a journey of upgrades?

I don't get a lot of hits on a search on Shimano idex. Those I get are all from South America and usually lumped together with Shimano Tourney. Based on that (and the 7-speed is a clue too) I'd guess that what you have is a fairly low-end bike.
For Shimano though, even low-end is usually perfectly serviceable. A bit clunky and chunky, but if kept reasonably clean and lubed fully acceptable for everyday riding.

Let's look at speed first - unless there's something wrong with your current wheels (bearings, spoke tension, trueness...) the amount of speed you'd gain from another set of wheels is most likely quite marginal. There are plenty of other things to work on before getting another wheelset becomes top priority.
There is probably some durability to gain by switching wheels. The rim you have is a single-wall, which tends to give poorer service than double-walled ones.
Not that it's in any way impossible to ride many happy miles on a single-wall.
Then there is compatibility. If your current rear wheel is of the freehub design, then it's possible to fit that cassette(+ a spacer) to a modern 8-9-10 speed freehub wheel to avoid messing with your chain and shifter.
But it might also be a freewheel design, in which case your options for a quality wheelset becomes somewhat more limited.
You are likely to encounter some issues with dropout width.
7-speed road is supposedly 126 mm, while 8-9-10 is 130 mm. Some simply muscle a new wheel in and call it done, other respace the new hub, yet some widen the frame and realign the dropouts before they're happy.

Biggest drawback I'd say to go hunting for a wallet-friendly wheelset is that they're all machine-built, and machine built(cheap) wheels are prone to spoke tension and bearing adjustment issues.
If you want to get good durability it's sensible to have spoke tension and bearing adjustment controlled by someone who knows what he's doing before starting to ride them - in which case you might have been equally well served by simply having your old wheels serviced instead.
If your current wheels haven't been heavily used and are still structurally sound(reasonably straight, no busted bearings), I'd say just get them serviced.
Tires degrade slowy over time anyhow, so new tires(particularly if the bike has been kept outside, in the sun) is probably a good idea regardless. Tubes usually do fine, not being exposed to sunlight and all that.

Last, I'd suggest that you head over to www.sheldonbrown.com, where you can read up on all things bike related, and lose some of your noobity
 
Originally Posted by wc07 .

Just got my first road bike (hand me down from friends father) and he didn't know much about the bike. He didn't take the best care of it. Anyway, I'm trying to look around for decent entry level wheels that won't burn my wallet. I'm not opposed to going to the LBS, but would rather do so with some knowledge and not look like a complete noob. The bike has Alex RP15F wheels on it now. I have a Shimano Idex System (7 speed) and that affects what wheels I can put on the bike right? What are some recommendations? Will I have to buy new tires and tubes too?

Thanks ahead of time
Hi wc07, a friend just brought these and really like them. Actually they spin well, have sealed bearings, are aero, and are well priced ... http://www.pro-liteoz.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=61
 
If my guess about the average quality on that bike is correct, the phrase "pearls before swine" comes to mind for those wheels. And "built solid" together with 20/24 spoke is also a claim that you don't see everyday.

But I guess they're right about this bit:"you arn't going to cry too much at this price!"
 
Thanks Dabac. I pulled the wheels off and gave them a good cleaning and lube. They spin much better now. It's an older dawes road bike, that gets about average reviews. It's my first bike and i am happy with average for now. I'm not looking for speed and not really looking to upgrade the bike. Read a lot about saving and getting a completely better bike down the road. For now that will be the plan. I just want a solid bicycle that won't turn me away from the sport. I'm bringing the bike by the local store tomorrow and am going to have him look at it. Thanks again
 
Originally Posted by wc07 .

... I pulled the wheels off and gave them a good cleaning and lube. They spin much better now.
A few things to keep in mind:
-the performance vs cost curve for bikes isn't anywhere near linear. Once you're away from the department store bikes every extra fraction of real improvement will cost a lot more. An expensive bike can certainly feel "nicer" (they're usually lighter and more responsive somehow). But I'm guessing that the big difference comes from secondary changes, like the first bike you might get almost at random, but when you get your next bike you have a fair idea of size, setup and all that. You'd have to ride with a fairly fast crowd before the difference between a properly maintained average bike vs a rather more expensive bike becomes critical.
-Better an average bike that gets used than a nice bike remaining unridden. Once you have expensive stuff it gets real easy to invent excuses. "Weather is poor", "too many potholes down that road", "can't leave the bike outside during lunch", "might get chipped on the bike carrier" etc etc.
-upgrade is fun, but time consuming and/or expensive. Bikes are much more expensive bought piecemeal than whole.
-if you have the space, it's always good to have at least two bikes. One can become a foul weather/utility bike, which allows you to keep the nice one nice.
-some people assign an excessive amount of interest to certain traditions and unwritten rules. Can be the length/color of your socks, shaved or hairy legs, the use of clothes that aren't bike-specific etc, etc. Sometimes there are nuggets of useful information behind it, sometimes it's mainly silly. Don't let them get to you.

So, welcome to the self-propelled crowd. Good luck with your bike, and I hope you'll enjoy it.
 
Keep in mind that a nice new bike doesn't have to be expensive (ie some $7000 Trek Madone). You may not be able to reach the full potential of the cycling experience with your current setup. I would suggest looking at some of the cheap options over a bikesdirect. You can get a rock-solid carbon fiber road bike with Shimano Ultregra 6700 and Mavic Askium wheels for $1500. There also cheaper options. I only mentioned this if you decide you are going to invest a couple of hundred bucks into wheels or fixing them.
 
Thanks electusunus. It's funny you mentioned that because I went on a group ride yesterday and got killed when everyone pushed their bikes hard. It was like taking a knife to a bazooka fight. Every time I got left behind. The other riders all had expensive bikes, so I wasn't too surprised by the results of my hand-me-down. I had the LBS true up the wheels and that was a much better idea then buying new ones. I'm stuck because I know my current bike is not worth upgrading. I have to admit that I don't even know if it is the right size for me. I'm 5' 11" and the frame is 60cm. I do want to get a better bike, but also am still new to the sport. I had a thought of just picking up a used, but newer model bike and seeing where I stand. I ride four times a week, so it's not like I won't use the bike.
 
Thanks electusunus. It's funny you mentioned that because I went on a group ride yesterday and got killed when everyone pushed their bikes hard. It was like taking a knife to a bazooka fight. Every time I got left behind. The other riders all had expensive bikes, so I wasn't too surprised by the results of my hand-me-down. I had the LBS true up the wheels and that was a much better idea then buying new ones. I'm stuck because I know my current bike is not worth upgrading. I have to admit that I don't even know if it is the right size for me. I'm 5' 11" and the frame is 60cm. I do want to get a better bike, but also am still new to the sport. I had a thought of just picking up a used, but newer model bike and seeing where I stand. I ride four times a week, so it's not like I won't use the bike.


Did it ever occur to you that those riding the more expensive bikes may have many years of experience on their legs and they can just out ride you? No bike equipment in the world can make you keep up if your own engine isn't up to the task.

T.
 
Originally Posted by tjonz .



Quote: Thanks electusunus. It's funny you mentioned that because I went on a group ride yesterday and got killed when everyone pushed their bikes hard. It was like taking a knife to a bazooka fight. Every time I got left behind. The other riders all had expensive bikes, so I wasn't too surprised by the results of my hand-me-down. I had the LBS true up the wheels and that was a much better idea then buying new ones. I'm stuck because I know my current bike is not worth upgrading. I have to admit that I don't even know if it is the right size for me. I'm 5' 11" and the frame is 60cm. I do want to get a better bike, but also am still new to the sport. I had a thought of just picking up a used, but newer model bike and seeing where I stand. I ride four times a week, so it's not like I won't use the bike.


Did it ever occur to you that those riding the more expensive bikes may have many years of experience on their legs and they can just out ride you? No bike equipment in the world can make you keep up if your own engine isn't up to the task.

T.


+1
To an extent, rider performance and bike quality/performance/cost tends to go hand in hand.
A good rider is usually also a dedicated rider. With that dedication comes not only a willingness to pay a fair bit for a nice bike, but also plenty of hours in the saddle, grinding away in near-agony.
Unless your bike is actually broken, or seriously unsuitable, don't expect to be able to buy more than maybe a few % of performance even if you pay through the teeth for it.

Last winter I saw a guy on a short track CX event absolutely dominate the race, on a flat bar fixie whose frame was probably a decade older than he was.
 
Yep, it's the engine. Saving 10-20 seconds in a one-hour TT effort at 25 mph may be possible with aero wheels, and that's certainly important for serious TT competition. As a club rider, they might allow me to stay at the front of my group paceline for another few seconds on every pull. But when the heat or road turns up, I'll always be dropped by the leaner and more fit guys.

For those looking to save watts of aero drag, I think that position on the bike would come first, followed by skinny body and clothing, then aero helmet, tires, then wheels. One of our group yesterday came out with new Zipp 404s. They didn't really make any difference in his performance that I could see....he's one of the strongest in the group either way. He did comment that he felt the crosswinds more, which were about 6-8 mph. Those crosswinds also reduce the aero benefits of the deep-rim wheels in the real world. I was planning to check them out closely at our rest stop, but we were talking about other stuff so I forgot to look at them.

The great thing about our sport is that you really can't buy your way in with hardware; you have to earn your respect through years and thousands of miles on the road.
 
I completely agree with you all. They people I rode with were sponsored and had been riding for years. The reason I ask is because most sports are greatly affected by the equipment you use. Plus, when the LBS serviced my bike, they found that the bottom frame welds were starting to go. I was told to keep an eye on them. Figured I could keep my eyes open for a decent deal if the opportunity arose. Honestly I just thought about buying a newer frame and switching the components over considering everything else works fine, but wasn't sure about component compatibility. Either way I am focusing on riding as much as I can. Trying to push my engine as hard as I can.
 
give us some more information, Exact make and model of your bike. Do you know if it is steel or aluminum? there are a number of concerns. it may be worth upgrading if you can get the parts at the right price. I bought an old hi-ten steel bike for $30 last year just to get my feet wet again with working on bikes, when I was done, i had turned it into a very nice riding machine. We have had a brutal winter here in New York, yesterday I got out on my bike for the first time in a month and prior to that it had been another month. All of my conditioning is GONE!!!!! there are some hill repeats that I do in central park, at the end of the year last year, I could repeat it 10 times without any issue. Yesterday I was struggling so bad, I took the cutoff and avoided the hill altogether! I know it would ahve killed me!!!!!


a nice bike definately makes you feel good and can inspire you to ride but there is no substitute for just getting out there and logging miles!
 
Originally Posted by wc07 .

.. They people I rode with were sponsored and had been riding for years. The reason I ask is because most sports are greatly affected by the equipment you use. Plus, when the LBS serviced my bike, they found that the bottom frame welds were starting to go. I was told to keep an eye on them. Figured I could keep my eyes open for a decent deal if the opportunity arose. Honestly I just thought about buying a newer frame and switching the components over considering everything else works fine, but wasn't sure about component compatibility.
bbb
Well, with the rider being the engine, equipment differences mainly start to become important when the riders are pretty much evenly matched.
In my experience of endurance racing the difference between the happy-go-lucky amateurs and the more disciplined racers can easily be 30-50 %,
A Swedish race, Vätternrundan, has an average time of abt 13 hours, winner did it in 7.30. A Swedish cross-country ski race, Vasaloppet, usually has a winner time of about 4 hours and an average-joe-time somewhat short of 7 hours. Same goes for Stockholm Marathon, winner in 2-and-something. 3.30-4.00 a decent time for a less dedicated runner.
If your bike is basically decent there's maybe 5% , 10% tops to be gained there, while you can easily have 30-50% difference in the "engine".
I'd worry more about the fit and the condition of the bike than its monetary value.
Well fitted and well kept there shouldn't be a problem keeping up with evenly matched riders pretty much regardless of how much more expensive their bikes are.
 
I stopped by my LBS and spoke with the tech who serviced my bike and he advised keeping an eye out for a new bicycle or at least a frame. He flushed the frame out with some chemical and a good amount of rust came out the bottom where the wields are cracked. Basically that is where I am at. I'm still going to ride it, hell I did this morning. I looked on my local bicycle websites and found a trek 400 for $200, so I don't know if that's worth wild but it is an option. I also found a frame that's the same size as my bike now, so I could probably just put all my components on it (http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/bik/2202104415.html). I really just want to start coming up with a plan just in case. I honestly do not want an exceptionally nice bicycle. I just want to ride and not worry about the bicycle frame breaking underneath me. lol
 
Hello guys....!
I am new and happy to join this community.i have a black 328xi e92 and its my first BMW so i am kind of new to this whole thing. I am looking at buying wheels as my first upgrade and wanted to know if you had any suggestions about brands and sizes. Only looking to spend about 1500. Your suggestions will be highly appreciated.Thanks in advance...!
 
I spoke with the LBS tech who serviced my bicycle and he advised to keep a look out for a bike or at least a frame. He used some chemical spray and rust came out of the bottom of the frame where the welds are cracked. I rode it yesterday and will ride it again tomorrow. I do not deserve a good bicycle since I am still new to the sport (My opinion). I found this frame and it's the same size as my bike now, so I figured I could pick it up and transfer most of my components and wheels (http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/bik/2202104415.html). What I can't transfer over then I'll just buy. I'm not getting to worried because I don't see the welds breaking soon, but the reality is that I really don't know : /
 
www.nashbar.com
take a look at their generic frames, I just bought their touring frame for my "super commuter" I find that their road frames have really short top tubes for my build but they may work for you. Honestly, when a new frame can be had for $99 there is no reason to risk your life riding an old rusted out frame. swap your parts over and gradually upgrade as time and money allows.

Also, I saw your post about looking around locally on craigslist and see that you are in the Tampa area. (off topic, just got back from Clearwater beach, beautiful place, I usually hate florida but had a great time there!) Florida is very flat, assuming your somewhat young and fit and free of knee problems you would be a great candidate for a single speed if money is an issue.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_504148_-1_201675_10000_202614