Wheel Ball bearings for 1971 Raleigh Supercourse



D

ddog

Guest
Greetings,

I am going to replace Suntour freewheel with IRD 13-24 5 speed
freewheel, and thought this might be good time to replace wheel ball
bearings and lube wheels, to propel my big self easier (every little
bit helps).


1. Is there any reason to do it if the wheels seem to spin fine now,
regardless of time or miles since greased?

2. I don't suppose there is any way to tell ball diameter until you
get the wheel axle out?

http://www.dooberywhatsit.com//files/RSC-070208-FrontHub.jpg

http://www.dooberywhatsit.com//files/RSC-070208-RearHub.jpg

http://www.dooberywhatsit.com//files/RSC-070208-CurrentBike.jpg

3. What material would be best for ball bearings, SS 302?

4. Just use standard auto 'green' grease?

and finally

5. Is there a fast Home Depot of ball bearings?

I would appreciate some help with the newby questions.



Thanks!
 
ddog wrote:

> I am going to replace Suntour freewheel with IRD 13-24 5 speed
> freewheel, and thought this might be good time to replace wheel ball
> bearings and lube wheels, to propel my big self easier (every little
> bit helps).
>
>
> 1. Is there any reason to do it if the wheels seem to spin fine now,
> regardless of time or miles since greased?


Yes. You don't know whether there is much grease at all in there any
more, and if they get wet, will the cups and cones rust? Better to
regularly re-pack the bearings to be sure that water has not had a
chance to ruin things. Bearings and grease are both cheap. New hubs
are less so.
>
> 2. I don't suppose there is any way to tell ball diameter until you
> get the wheel axle out?


Most older rear freewheel hubs had 9 1/4" balls per side. Yours appear
to be Maillard (a fairly cheap French brand). Front will probably take
3/16" bearings, but I forget how many per side. Maybe 9, but maybe as
many as 11.

Oh, and it looks like you lost part of your saddle.

> 3. What material would be best for ball bearings, SS 302?


Bearings are usually a carbon steel, as I recall. More to the point is
the grade (roundness and uniformity), for which the larger the number,
the cheaper the bearings. Grade 25 is recommended for high-quality
hubs, but yours....
>
> 4. Just use standard auto 'green' grease?


Whatever. I usually use a lithium grease. The green stuff tends to be
waterproof grease, which for most of us is overkill, and is a bit sticky.

> 5. Is there a fast Home Depot of ball bearings?


Used to be, the local bike shop would have them. But these days they
either don't have any but their shop stock, or what they do have for
sale is junk grade 300 stuff. Lots of places on-line sell them for
about $0.05 per.

--

David L. Johnson

And what if you track down these men and kill them, what if you killed
all of us? From every corner of Europe, hundreds, thousands would
rise up to take our places. Even Nazis can't kill that fast.
-- Paul Henreid (Casablanca).
 
On Feb 8, 9:09 pm, "David L. Johnson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
..
..
..
> Oh, and it looks like you lost part of your saddle.

..
..
..

Thanks David. I appreciate the information.

And that part of the saddle missing is the only reason I can ride now.
Its a high quality material one of a kind product. Riding is pure
pleasure
now and no crotch pain :)