I have a pre-built rear wheel that is properly dished that sits differently in two seperate frames. Both frames (one Al and the other Carbon) have been checked and are straight and in proper alignment. The problem is that when the wheel is on the carbon frame the dish is such that it comes extremely close to hitting the non-drive side chain stay. The wheel is such that there isn't any adjustment on the hub to move it over. Any suggestions?
wheel dishing
- Thread starter jrice41
- Start date
how do we know the frame is in alignment?
the frame can be in alignment with the dropouts not being correct...
you can try taking the paint off the front inside surface of the non drive side dropout to allow the axle to move forward a bit, if that helps you may want to consider filing a bit to get the wheel centered the way you want... setting the wheel toward the drive side when installing will be nec to get the wheel into that position. normal clamping should keep the wheel where you want it.
i would also check other wheels before making any modification to the frame...
the frame can be in alignment with the dropouts not being correct...
you can try taking the paint off the front inside surface of the non drive side dropout to allow the axle to move forward a bit, if that helps you may want to consider filing a bit to get the wheel centered the way you want... setting the wheel toward the drive side when installing will be nec to get the wheel into that position. normal clamping should keep the wheel where you want it.
i would also check other wheels before making any modification to the frame...
jrice41 said:
The rear triangle can be 'in alignment' but have the dropouts not parallel. It's a frame problem..warranty?
jrice41 said:
They are probably parallel but the distance from the BB to the center of one many be different than the distance along the chainstay to the dropout of the other. I saw a Sampson like this. Dropout alignment tools showed parallel dropouts and frame alignment gauge showed that the rear triangle was aligned with the seatube and headtube but the stays were different lengths.
FWIW. Here's a quick test you can do:jrice41 said:
Take the cassette off the rear wheel (I guess removing the cassette is optional, but I would) & then put the rear wheel in the CF frame (BTW. I'm presuming the problem you have described is with a road frame -- if it is a MTB frame, then remove the disc) with the freehub body on the non-driveside ...
Is the clearance the same?
If so, then the problem is indeed with the dropouts on the CF frame ... if not, then the problem is with the wheel AND your alloy frame.
BTW. You can ALSO use the "string method" to gauge whether the dropouts are equidistant from the head tube.
