Wheel durability data-base: enter your data here:



105 hubs, 32H Mavic CXP-22.
4500km.
Front wheel: never trued.
Rear wheel: only when I break a spoke, on average every 1500km.
88kg.
 
Rider 185 Lbs

Road:
2003 Shimano. I think they are a set of WH-R500's Came with my Kona Deluxe.

One season of training and a winter of riding on rollers (3482 Km, so far)
No problems.

Mountain:
Handbuilt: 98 Chris King front hub 28h, 98 XTR rear 32h, DT Revolution Spokes, Spline Drive Nipples, Mavic X-517 Rims, Ritchey Rim tape.

6+ years of racing, training & a few vacations (approx 7500 Kms)
Been trued twice, one rim replacement but that was my fault (ripped 10+ spokes clean out of the rear rim). Other than that no problems.
 
Mavic CXP-22
1000 miles
started breaking spokes left and right (literally on EVERY ride after fixing the previous broken spoke), needed truing and generally turned to complete **** at 1000 mile mark. upgraded to ksyrium elites
180 lbs.

Mavic Ksyrium elites
500 miles
no problems, no truing needed
170 lbs. (yes, I lost weight)
 
Mavic Kysrium SSC (Original ones - 1999 ?)
Over 50,000 km !.
Never trued !
Used originally for racing then 'retired' to training over several seasons.
Just stopped using them 2005 as the aluminium nipples have all seized meaning I cannot tighten the spokes and everything had become 'soft'. Replaced front wheel bearings once. Rear bearings are original.
 
Road Bike
Bontrager Race Lite 5000km never trued, brilliant wheels
Hybrid
No name cheap wheels 2000km
Trued front and rear a couple of times
Replaced front wheel as rim joint not properly aligned causing shuddering under breaking plus the bearings failed. Not worth mucking round with as a new wheel only cost $75

90 kg
 
Mavic Elites
7100 miles
They just keep going without nothing more then cleaning.
Bullet Proof.
 
Zipp 404 Clinchers (2005 Model)

Front Wheel once at 300 KM...have not needed to again...wheel has Approx. 2000 KM at present.

Rear Wheel once at around 200 KM..then again at around 900 KM (really both times it was only off a very slight amount)

My Weight is 185 pounds
 
1) mavic classics elite/pro

2) 20,000+mi. 32,000+ kilometers

3) ~500 mi., 1 broken spoke total

4) wt 160s








yzfrr11 said:
Please enter the following data, and I will keep a running tally - let's find out which are the most durable wheels:

1) your wheels

2) total milage on your wheels

3) how often do you need to true your wheels:
after every:
a. 10 miles
b. 100 miles
c. 1000 miles
d. 10,000 miles
e. never

4) your weight


this will be very infomative!
 
yzfrr11 said:
Please enter the following data, and I will keep a running tally - let's find out which are the most durable wheels:

1) your wheels

2) total milage on your wheels

3) how often do you need to true your wheels:
after every:
a. 10 miles
b. 100 miles
c. 1000 miles
d. 10,000 miles
e. never

4) your weight


this will be very infomative!


1. Campy Protons
2. 3,000+ miles
3. Truing? Not these and they have hit some serious potholes and remain perfect.
4. 230 lbs.
 
1.) Mavic Ksyrium SSC SL (2005)
2.) 6000 miles
3.) e. Never trued
4.) 170lbs

Unfortunately, my Ksyriums are dead at the moment. I hit the outside edge of a large pothole at about 25-30mph, which dented both the front and rear rims. Oddly, I did not get flat tires in this incident. I've ordered replacement rims from Mavic and my LBS is going to rebuild them. This says nothing about their durability, in my opinion, as no wheel would have survived.
 
Mavic CXP22s laced to Shimano 105 hubs. 3 cross front and rear. 1800 miles. Trued twice - once after about 200 miles and the second time at about 1600.
 
artemidorus said:
105 hubs, 32H Mavic CXP-22.
4500km.
Front wheel: never trued.
Rear wheel: only when I break a spoke, on average every 1500km.
88kg.
The rear wheel was killed by a 4wd, so I had a 32H Aerohead OC laced on to the same hub with 14/15 DT Revolution. Started breaking spokes after a few weeks and the rate of breakage accelerated as the spokes became more and more unevenly tensioned, despite (or because of :rolleyes: )my best efforts to put things right. Eventually gave up after about ten breakages and unlaced the rim, which still looks OK; maybe 2mm out of true. Thinking about having it laced back on with fresh spokes by a different builder. Unsure whether it was bad build or my weight that lead to the problem. Was the tension even? Were the spokes stress relieved? Were the nipples Loctited? (I couldn't see any residue on the threads).
Have put an R550 wheel on the rear, which feels "dead" in comparison with the Aerohead, but which has remained true over about 300km.
Front wheel still fine after 6500km; never touched by a spoke key.
 
Rider: 73kg

Wheels: Cheap alloy MTB wheels

Distance: 2000km

Only had to true the rear at around 1000km after a mistimed gutter jump buckled it :eek:
 
artemidorus said:
The rear wheel was killed by a 4wd, so I had a 32H Aerohead OC laced on to the same hub with 14/15 DT Revolution. Started breaking spokes after a few weeks and the rate of breakage accelerated as the spokes became more and more unevenly tensioned, despite (or because of :rolleyes: )my best efforts to put things right. Eventually gave up after about ten breakages and unlaced the rim, which still looks OK; maybe 2mm out of true. Thinking about having it laced back on with fresh spokes by a different builder. Unsure whether it was bad build or my weight that lead to the problem. Was the tension even? Were the spokes stress relieved? Were the nipples Loctited? (I couldn't see any residue on the threads).
Have put an R550 wheel on the rear, which feels "dead" in comparison with the Aerohead, but which has remained true over about 300km.
Front wheel still fine after 6500km; never touched by a spoke key.

I'm not trying to be difficult, but were the spokes 14/15 (DT Competition) or DT Revelutions, which are either 14/17 or 15/17? IMO, Revolutions would be a poor choice for a rear wheel in this case.

IME, broken spokes are almost always a symptom of a poor build ( inappropriate spokes, inadequate/uneven tension, etc.). If you were too heavy for the rim, you would likely have a different set of symptoms (e.g., spokes pulling thru the rim).

If you can find a skilled wheel builder, give the Aerohead OC another shot, it can build up into a very good wheel.
 
1)Ritchey OCR 28 with Swiss Onyx hubs & 32 Swiss straight spokes

2)just under 9000 k.

3) never

4)109kg (was 123kg when wheels first purchased).

Note - rear rim developed cracks around base of 5 cog side spokes - suspect overtensioned when built by the supplier, as they have required no work whatsoever and have been faultless whether commuting, training or racing.
 
Ozark Bicycle said:
I'm not trying to be difficult, but were the spokes 14/15 (DT Competition) or DT Revelutions, which are either 14/17 or 15/17? IMO, Revolutions would be a poor choice for a rear wheel in this case.

IME, broken spokes are almost always a symptom of a poor build ( inappropriate spokes, inadequate/uneven tension, etc.). If you were too heavy for the rim, you would likely have a different set of symptoms (e.g., spokes pulling thru the rim).

If you can find a skilled wheel builder, give the Aerohead OC another shot, it can build up into a very good wheel.
Now you've confused me! I'm pretty sure that they're 14/15, so they might be the Competition. Definitely DT. I'm keen to give the rim another try - I thought I had a skilled builder the first time, turns out his now-sacked offsider built the wheel.
 
artemidorus said:
Now you've confused me! I'm pretty sure that they're 14/15, so they might be the Competition. Definitely DT. I'm keen to give the rim another try - I thought I had a skilled builder the first time, turns out his now-sacked offsider built the wheel.
Yes, they probably were 14/15 Competitions, as Revolutions would not be a sensible choice. For the next try, _insist_ on the following: 14/15ga spokes, that the builder use a spoke tensionmeter to ensure adequate and even spoke tension and that the wheel be stress relieved prior to use. If the builder balks at any of this, move on. I also recommend that the rim spoke sockets be lubed and the use of boiled linseed oil (my preference) or a mild threadlocker on the spoke threads, but there are good wheel builders who differ with me on these points. Good luck, and keep us posted.
 

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