Wheel Truing Tutorial



BicycleTutor <[email protected]> wrote in news:f4f7f692-4543-46ad-
[email protected]:

> http://bicycletutor.com/wheel-truing/


Inaccurate and illiterate.

>Pre-stressing spokes<


Whow? Pre-stressing? Not stress-relieving?

> Remember that on the rear wheel, the right side spokes have a lesser

angle and effect lateral movement less than the left. The left side spokes
have greater angle and effect radial alignment less than right. To
compensate for this difference, the right side spokes should be adjusted
two turns for every turn on left. <

Really? Two turns? Not a turn and a half? Or one and one-quarter?

Hopeless.....
 
Alex, I think your tutorials in general, would inspire novice tuners
to at least give it a try. If that's your main objective, your "tutes"
are on target. No bullseyes but definitely on target.

One note. Whenever referencing wheels, I prefer drive and non-drive
side versus right or left.

Best Regards - Mike Baldwin
 
> Whow? Pre-stressing? Not stress-relieving?

After truing, the spokes will get stressed when you take the first
ride, and you'll have to re-adjust anyways. Therefore, you should pre-
stress them beforehand. Or you can call it 'stress-relieving' if you
wish... I think most people get the meaning.

> Really? Two turns? Not a turn and a half? Or one and one-quarter?


In this regard, each wheel is different, depending on how many
sprockets are on the rear cluster or freewheel. I've given the average
as there was not enough time to be more specific about every type of
wheel.

> Hopeless.....


You might be missing the point... If this tutorial helps one single
person true their own wheel, then it is far from hopeless.
 
IK (who???) wrote:
> BicycleTutor <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:f4f7f692-4543-46ad-
> [email protected]:
>
>> http://bicycletutor.com/wheel-truing/

>
> Inaccurate and illiterate.
>
>> Pre-stressing spokes<

>
> Whow? Pre-stressing? Not stress-relieving?


It's right under a heading entitled "Stress Relieving". Once a wheel is
true, isn't squeezing the spokes a way of "pre-stressing" them before riding
on them? Why are you picking such a tiny, insignificant nit?

>> Remember that on the rear wheel, the right side spokes have a lesser

> angle and effect lateral movement less than the left. The left side
> spokes have greater angle and effect radial alignment less than
> right. To compensate for this difference, the right side spokes
> should be adjusted two turns for every turn on left. <
>
> Really? Two turns? Not a turn and a half? Or one and one-quarter?
>
> Hopeless.....


So where's your page offering help to cyclists?

Bill "if you ain't got better then close yer yap" S.
 
On Feb 28, 3:00 pm, [email protected] (Michael Baldwin) wrote:

> One note. Whenever referencing wheels, I prefer drive and non-drive
> side versus right or left.


Thanks Michael, great tip. I will be sure to use that terminology for
future tutorials.

Take care, Alex
 
Michael Baldwin wrote:

> Alex, I think your tutorials in general, would inspire novice tuners
> to at least give it a try. If that's your main objective, your
> "tutes" are on target. No bullseyes but definitely on target.


> One note. Whenever referencing wheels, I prefer drive and non-drive
> side versus right or left.


Oh? Why do you prefer obscure jargon when left and right are
unambiguous. This use becomes worse because, being wordy, it leads to
acronyms that are more obscure, DS/NDS. This is part of the "sloppy
English is good" thread on this newsgroup.

Jobst Brandt
 
Alexander Ramon wrote:

>> Whow? Pre-stressing? Not stress-relieving?


> After truing, the spokes will get stressed when you take the first
> ride, and you'll have to re-adjust anyways. Therefore, you should
> pre-stress them beforehand. Or you can call it 'stress-relieving'
> if you wish... I think most people get the meaning.


What causes the stress when you first ride it, stress that wasn't
there before, when it was freshly built? I think you have an
incorrect visualization of stress in wheels. Bicycle wheels are pre
stressed structures, an effect that enables their spokes to withstand
compressive loads. Tensioning spokes is where pre-stressing occurs.

Stress relieving is performed to prevent spokes from fatigue failures
caused by load cycles with every rotation when in use. Reducing peak
stress in a freshly spoked wheel is an important operation to make
wheels durable.

>> Really? Two turns? Not a turn and a half? Or one and

one-quarter?

> In this regard, each wheel is different, depending on how many
> sprockets are on the rear cluster or freewheel. I've given the
> average as there was not enough time to be more specific about every
> type of wheel.


This can be described in a generic way and is so in "the Bicycle Wheel"
where the process is explained in plain language.

>> Hopeless.....


> You might be missing the point... If this tutorial helps one single
> person true their own wheel, then it is far from hopeless.


I think that is generous criterion.

Jobst Brandt
 
Bill Sornson wrote:

http://bicycletutor.com/wheel-truing/

>> Inaccurate and illiterate.


>>> Pre-stressing spokes


>> Whow? Pre-stressing? Not stress-relieving?


> It's right under a heading entitled "Stress Relieving". Once a
> wheel is true, isn't squeezing the spokes a way of "pre-stressing"
> them before riding on them? Why are you picking such a tiny,
> insignificant nit?


No. That isn't a means of pre-stressing spokes, unless you are
changing the structural meaning of pre-stressing. Stretching the
spokes by squeezing them in pairs momentarily increases their tension
to cause yielding at high stress points at the elbow and threads. It
does not change the tension in spokes, the tension that is the
pre-stress of a wheel.

I think the concept of pre-stressing has been here often, as in
pre-stressed concrete that has much in common with pre-stressed spokes,
except that concrete cannot support tension and spokes cannot support
compression without being pre-stressed.

Jobst Brandt
 
BicycleTutor <[email protected]> wrote:

>> One note. Whenever referencing wheels, I prefer drive and
>> non-drive side versus right or left.


> Thanks Michael, great tip. I will be sure to use that terminology
> for future tutorials.


Arrrgh!

Jobst Brandt
 
Alexander Ramon wrote:

>> Whow? Pre-stressing? Not stress-relieving?


> After truing, the spokes will get stressed when you take the first
> ride, and you'll have to re-adjust anyways. Therefore, you should
> pre-stress them beforehand. Or you can call it 'stress-relieving'
> if you wish... I think most people get the meaning.


What causes the stress when you first ride it, stress that wasn't
there before, when it was freshly built? I think you have an
incorrect visualization of stress in wheels. Bicycle wheels are
pre-stressed structures, an effect that enables their spokes to
withstand compressive loads. Tensioning spokes is where pre-stressing
occurs.

Stress relieving is performed to prevent spokes from failuring in
fatigue during load cycles with each rotation in use. Reducing peak
stress after building a wheel is an important operation to make it
durable.

>> Really? Two turns? Not a turn and a half? Or one and

one-quarter?

> In this regard, each wheel is different, depending on how many
> sprockets are on the rear cluster or freewheel. I've given the
> average as there was not enough time to be more specific about every
> type of wheel.


This can be described in a generic way and is so in "the Bicycle Wheel"
where the process is explained in plain language.

>> Hopeless.....


> You might be missing the point... If this tutorial helps one single
> person true their own wheel, then it is far from hopeless.


I think that is generous criterion.

Jobst Brandt
 

> > You might be missing the point... If this tutorial helps one single
> > person true their own wheel, then it is far from hopeless.

>
> I think that is generous criterion.
>
> Jobst Brandt


Why is that a 'generous criterion'?
 
LUBE HUB AND SPOKES WITH TEFLON WAX
is this seminal practice mentioned?

Cartoon graphics are the way to go, go to the heart of the matter.
Take off from Sheldon and friend's brilliant, simple, clear, concise,
visually stunning wheel build instructions.
 
BicycleTutor wrote:
>>> You might be missing the point... If this tutorial helps one single
>>> person true their own wheel, then it is far from hopeless.

>>
>> I think that is generous criterion.
>>
>> Jobst Brandt

>
> Why is that a 'generous criterion'?


Because JB is snotty and pedantic.

HTH!
 
On 28 Feb 2008 23:33:31 GMT, [email protected] wrote:

>Michael Baldwin wrote:
>
>> Alex, I think your tutorials in general, would inspire novice tuners
>> to at least give it a try. If that's your main objective, your
>> "tutes" are on target. No bullseyes but definitely on target.

>
>> One note. Whenever referencing wheels, I prefer drive and non-drive
>> side versus right or left.

>
>Oh? Why do you prefer obscure jargon when left and right are
>unambiguous. This use becomes worse because, being wordy, it leads to
>acronyms that are more obscure, DS/NDS. This is part of the "sloppy
>English is good" thread on this newsgroup.
>
>Jobst Brandt


Dear Jobst,

Other posters may not know that you're mistaken, so it's worth
explaining yet again.

As has been pointed out to you repeatedly, there are stunt bicycles
being sold today with the drive on the left side, not the right:

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/adfadf06467f4d44

And left-hand drive bicycles were made in the past--here's the Ivel
safety with its front spoon brake on the right and its drive on the
non-traditional left side:

http://www.oldroads.com/pqdb_img.asp?p=fdbdown.asp?707&mod=&mak=Ivel

In any case, what matters is which side has the drive, not which side
it happens to be, so drive and non-drive are always accurate and
require no one to think about how a bare wheel would go into a frame.

Come to think of it, things would get rather tricky with a flip-flop
hub, wouldn't they? Drive and non-drive side change, just as left and
right do.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel
 
Alex Ramon wrote:

>>> You might be missing the point... If this tutorial helps one single
>>> person true their own wheel, then it is far from hopeless.


>> I think that is generous criterion.


> Why is that a 'generous criterion'?


Either "far from hopeless" or single person's experience is being overrated.

Jobst Brandt
 
yeah...coming here asking RBT for comment is off course useless and
demeaning but aside from that.

GARGLE FIRST. get some air in your lungs. breathe deep. rising falling
rising falling


does the Tutorial teach wheel truing. Not really. You speak, move your
hands, saying turn the nipples on the right to bring rim right, turn 4
(six six six but less with incerasing torque...)

I live in an asylum. Occasionally bringing the bike out onto the
"common area" for a rolling wheel true before heading out to DO
SOMETHING.

Other asylumites comment: "how does he do that, the bike shop...."
"He's done that for years..."

Ever try telling a rider, not a serious rider off course, the rear
wheel is out an inch, the tire is wearing away...then tutorial turn
tight right, loosen left, the rim goes, bend straightens?

whaddya get? a glassy look. synaptic seizure. like when I say ERD
ERD...

Without a graphic following a "survival in the artic" monologue,
graphic showing turns and rim movement singularly and symphonically,
in brilliant color. A graphic pierceing the synaptic seizure, you wind
up saying: this is a cat, this is a dog, and this is my mommy.
"That's" whose listening and "that's" what you're telling "them." A
reciprocal relationship.

As it is, a "survival" op, best to simplify the message and forget the
trimmings unless trimmings are meant to impress the Campy/carbon/
glacier crowd of materialist excess. oooooo lookit the shiny wheel?

Yeah, simply and explain turn right go right.... but there again a
graphic upside and downside.

INVEST IN THE SOFTWARE!

excuse me I'm gonna throw up....
 
On Feb 28, 4:29 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> On 28 Feb 2008 23:33:31 GMT, [email protected] wrote:


> Dear Jobst,
>
> Other posters may not know that you're mistaken, so it's worth
> explaining yet again.
>
> As has been pointed out to you repeatedly, there are stunt bicycles
> being sold today with the drive on the left side, not the right:
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/adfadf06467f4d44
>
> And left-hand drive bicycles were made in the past--here's the Ivel
> safety with its front spoon brake on the right and its drive on the
> non-traditional left side:
>
> http://www.oldroads.com/pqdb_img.asp?p=fdbdown.asp?707&mod=&mak=Ivel
>
> In any case, what matters is which side has the drive, not which side
> it happens to be, so drive and non-drive are always accurate and
> require no one to think about how a bare wheel would go into a frame.
>
> Come to think of it, things would get rather tricky with a flip-flop
> hub, wouldn't they? Drive and non-drive side change, just as left and
> right do.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Carl Fogel


Thanks Carl for the clear explanation. This was starting to get
confusing, but I'm now certain the DS/NDS way of explaining things
makes more sense.
 
HI KIDS!
I'M AUTO DISSMARK (COSTUME-looks like?) AND I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW A
BICYCLE WHEEL IS STRAIGHTENED
First we need a bent bicycle wheel. KNOCKOUT REDHEAD BRINGS IN WHEEL.
Auto holdsup straight wheel and bends it into a pretzel. Short 15
second video of crazy kid jumping his bike, trashing the wheel. Kid
wipes his face out on chip and tar.
Auto, off course, has a room filled with wheels pre-tuned for each
segment of this disaster

Auto pulls out a 3' monkey wrench, walks over to a bent rim section 2'
wide with proportional spokes and...
graphics arrows move directionally as Auto torques, with handle
direction graphics...
followed by a cartoon of same (gotta repeat)

and I'll leave it to yawl to finish...