Wheelbuilders
- Thread starter bobbyOCR
- Start date
I can get the Fulcrum 7s for a bit under $250, and they are red. I prefer regular old elbowed spokes on a training set. I am not sully sure if they are cartridge or cup n cone. I am heading to Perth on the WE for the Great Perth Bike ride, so I'm going to check Fleet cycles and Ideal cycles for Neuvations.Phill P said:
bobbyOCR said:
I just built a bike and decided that I'd try Neuvations, simply as I was interested in all the positive buzz about them, including guys I race against.
I've got about 200km on them thus far (R28 Aeros) including 2 crits, one a more traditional short circuit crit, the other very open and more like short lap road racing for the most part.
They are a decent wheelset, seem to be plenty stiff, but I'm not really the kind of guy who'd ever flew the most noodly wheel anyway. They roll well, aren't overly heavy and it'll be interesting to see what the durability is like
--brett
So the solution is not to slow down for the corners, or join weight watchers.ScienceIsCool said:
John,
I'm intersted in the difference between weight on the rim and weight on the frame only being approx 10%. So I'd be better off with a 8kg bike including 2kg wheels than a 9kg bike including 1.5kg wheels.
Cheers, Michael.
Yes, that's exactly right. The rotating mass does not add a very big amount to your energy at speed. That is, the Iw^2 component is much smaller than the mv^2 component.mikesbytes said:
John Swanson
www.bikephysics.com
ScienceIsCool said:
Great post John. To make things hit home even more I always used grams as my unit of measure to show that 100 grams really is insignificant compared to 80,000 grams of rider and bike. To go faster or make cycling easier then you need to train - not necessarily harder but more scientifically and I'm sure there are good articles on what to do.
As far as wheels go then something reliable will always go faster than something that is superlight because you don't hold back knowing that the wheels will look after themselves without you guiding them around things that would otherwise be a problem for light ones - either real issues like breaking them or perceived issues like not wanting to risk my $$$ wheels so better slow down.
Roger
roger-m said:
EXACTLY! When I'm riding with my friend who has Americal Classic 420s (very light and aero, but rather fragile) and we have to cross obstacles like holes in the roads, road reconstruction and so on, I just let my cheap Shimano WH-R550 take a beating and let go of the brakes. What my friend does is brake hard and go slowly over the hard bumps, and by then, I'm already way ahead of him!
I don't think this holds true for racing at all, but at least when you do competitive training.
My father use to say an ounce on the rim was worth a pound on the frame [predates metics], but that is clearly incorrect.ScienceIsCool said:
So why all the focus on weight? 10% means that 500g out of the wheels is the same as 550g out of the bike. Is it more to do with feel?
Edit: What does ERD mean?
mikesbytes said:
It has alot do do with feel. Try and hold a wheel by the skewers in your hands and spin it up with your fingers. This tells you two things.
1) It didn't really cost you much in terms of energy to spin it up really fast.
2) Try and turn it (still holding it by the skewers), and it will move perpendicular to the movement you try to force upon it. If you try to turn it sideways, it'll try to lie down horizontally. If you try to lay it down horizontally, it wants to turn sideways. These are the forces that makes bicycling stable and gives you the "feel" from your wheels.
ERD, I don't know what that is!
Strid
sogood said:
When thinking about it, I guess the stability you get from the wheels spinning isn't critical at all for cycling. That way kids "kick scooters" would be impossible to ride. But I'm fairly sure that it does help stabilize the ride to some degree. That's how a gyroscope works and a wheel is sort of a gyroscope (at least in my head it compares to a gyroscope really well).
Weather this effect is significant or not, I can't say, but I'd guess that when your wheels spin at high speeds (you can easily get it to spin 5 time per second) it looks significant to me, but I don't know for sure.
Kick scooter. Wheels have almost no moment of inertia, compared to a bike wheel, proving that gyroscopic stability from wheels isn't necessary for driving on two wheels.
EDIT: If you have anything written on this subject, I would have lots of fun reading it.
I think it because weight is easy to measure and to compare. Fit, aerodynamics, reliability are all more important but much harder to measure and vary with the rider. Even stiffness is harder to measure.mikesbytes said:
From http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html#erdmikesbytes said:
"Effective Rim Diameter. This is the rim diameter measured at the nipple seats in the spoke holes. The E.R.D. is needed for calculating the correct spoke length."
New Update (I think you will struggle to find a person who changes their mind more)
I found a set of Neuvation R28Aero in GP cycles today for $329AUD. Bargain. I can't pass that up so I'm gonna get them as an intermediate pair to use until I decide I truly need some great race wheels. These should fare better for tt season as well.
I found a set of Neuvation R28Aero in GP cycles today for $329AUD. Bargain. I can't pass that up so I'm gonna get them as an intermediate pair to use until I decide I truly need some great race wheels. These should fare better for tt season as well.
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