Wheelbuilding: Fine Adjustments Difficult!



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I have built a new front wheel using 36 hole Ultegra hub, Mavic Open Pro rim and DT double butted
spokes. I have it trued up to a point, but now it seems that I can no longer make fine enough
adjustments to the spokes to bring the wheel to dead flat.

I oiled the spoke threads & nipples when I laced the wheel, and I think the wheel is pretty tight. I
have been stress relieving with the squeeze method. The wheel is at the point where I get a lot of
spoke twist when I turn the wrench, making a fine adjustment difficult. Any hints?

By the way, I have enjoyed building the wheel, and I'd like to try it again and get better at it,
but I don't need any more wheels. How do people who are not building commercially get a volume of
experience?

BC
 
> I oiled the spoke threads & nipples when I laced the wheel, and I think the wheel is pretty tight.
> I have been stress relieving with the squeeze method. The wheel is at the point where I get a lot
> of spoke twist when I turn the wrench, making a fine adjustment difficult. Any hints?

If you're truing it in a bicycle frame or very solid wheel stand, pull the rim toward the frame (in
the direction of the spoke you want to tighten). This will make it much easier to tighten the
particular spoke, since it reduces tension on it.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
 
anonymous writes shyly:

> I have built a new front wheel using 36 hole Ultegra hub, Mavic Open Pro rim and DT double butted
> spokes. I have it trued up to a point, but now it seems that I can no longer make fine enough
> adjustments to the spokes to bring the wheel to dead flat.

If the wheel no longer responds properly then you may have the spokes TOO tight. This would become
obvious if you stress relieved the spokes. Do this carefully lest you ruin your rim.

Jobst Brandt [email protected] Palo Alto CA
 
I'm assuming you haven't overtightened the spokes (which I can't tell by a NG post).

Eventually, you are going to reach a point in trueing when even the finest adjustment won't get the
rim any straighter. This is, of course, the point where you begin measuring the variations in the
surface of the rim itself, which is usually extruded from a die. I found this to be about +/- .005"
(5 thousandths of an inch) on a quality rim.

These are almost aerospace tolerances. If you get that close, consider your rim true and pat
yourself on the bach for a job well done.

May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris

Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": http://www.geocities.com/czcorner
 
bcdrums-<< The wheel is at the point where I get a lot of spoke twist when I turn the wrench, making
a fine adjustment difficult. Any hints?

A'twist assist'-a tool that holds the spoke as ya turn the nipp or turning the nipp too far, backing
it off and frequent tapping on the ground, edge first, to take windup out.

<< By the way, I have enjoyed building the wheel, and I'd like to try it again and get better at it,
but I don't need any more wheels. How do people who are not building commercially get a volume of
experience?

I started building for my bike club, then part time in a shop...

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
 
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