wheels

questions

Is a lighter wheel better, and why?

Also what makes thye difference, overall weight, rim weight etc. I guess the question "revolves" around rolling resistance / weight - some people dismiss this others swear by it - who is more correct.

What are campag protons like (recreational ride around 85 kg) and what mileage could one expect from wheel like these

any advice received will help

gaw

 

A reduction in object weight means less effort (power) to "propel" the object. A lighter wheel means that less effort is required to overcome the rolling resistance of the wheel (assuming that all tyres are equal). I believe that the lighter the wheelset, the better quality tyre should be fitted to fully exploit the advantages of the wheelset.

The Campy Protons are awesome allrounders. Good distance and climbing wheels.

 

a lighter wheel is easier to accelerate and contributes less to the overall mass that has to be carried up hills

but its not that simple, on a flatter course where speed is high much heavier but more aerodynamic wheels will be faster so on flatt time trials and in track wheels typically have a lot less spokes and deep rims or discs

in general the best mass to reduce is on the perimeter so lighter tyres and rims followed by fewer spokes and then lighter hubs

 

I've reed elsewhere that saving 10g dynamic wieght(wheels) equals saving 150g static weight(frame). I geuss the 10g will have be shaved of the rim/tyre and not hub, for the difference to be so significant.

 

which raises the whole issue of exponential, rather than incremental increases in performance vs. price. Me wonders whether a good rider on a 40km TT would be significantly faster on a $1,500 Tiagra equiped bike compared to a $5,500 Dura Ace model.

Recognising that durability may play a part, are we being ripped off?

Perhaps a good night's sleep and a few less Crown Lagers would have far more impact than upgrading to a new group set?

 

There is no doubt that the most important factor is good pair of wheels. And no, it doens't make sense to buy a $100 seatpost to sve 50g when you could save 5000g by going on a diet ;-)

 

In fact I am mildly amused by the fact there are many more posts on 'cycling equipment' than 'cycling training'

Me wonders how many 'cyclists' spend more time drinking latte than on the road...

 

at the top level of any sport tiny differences in equipment can make the difference but as has been pointed out there would be very few people who couldn't increase their performance by doing a bit more saddle time.

i'd say as long as your bike works spend the money on a good HR monitor, watch your diet and get out there

i'm riding an OCR 3 and apart from a quick wheel retrue and tightening up the hub bearings it runs great. Until i'm able to ride consistently at pro pace i'll save my money and spend it elswhere

.....like on my car