wheelset
- Thread starter dbackmtg
- Start date
What sort of riding do you and and how much do you weigh?
If you want pre builts I'd look at campy/fulcrum wheels.
You'll get this answer a lot, and its the way I'm going to go from now on....get some custom built wheels. You can pick the hubs, rims, spoke type/numbers. Have it made to suit your needs and budget.
Down side is you generally have to spend a lot of money to get the cooler looking straight pull spokes, but the up side is its made for you, and the parts are much easier to source/replace.
If you want pre builts I'd look at campy/fulcrum wheels.
You'll get this answer a lot, and its the way I'm going to go from now on....get some custom built wheels. You can pick the hubs, rims, spoke type/numbers. Have it made to suit your needs and budget.
Down side is you generally have to spend a lot of money to get the cooler looking straight pull spokes, but the up side is its made for you, and the parts are much easier to source/replace.
Phill P said:
5' 8", 175lbs I just want overall better wheelset than my current Alex dc-19. I'm not spending the money for custom rims on my current bike. I just ride and do some casual races. I don't want to hear, for the type of riding you do you don't need a better wheelset. I want one and am getting one. I'm just curious as to which wheelset others would buy for 700 shamolies. I guess I would like to improve my climbing. Yes, I know a new wheelset isn't going to make me a better climber.
I guess that really depends on how you define better. Lighter? Stronger? Stiffer? Faster? Most likely you'll need to make a compromise. For example, a set of Shimano 560 wheels is undeniably faster (yes, I have numbers to back this up) than a set of Ksyrium ES. However, the ES wheels will be lighter. Possibly a tie on strength and stiffness. Maybe you have other performance characteristics in mind such as ease of maintenance or durability?
I guess my point is that there are many ways to spend your $700 and many ways to define "better". Once you define the qualities you want your new wheels to have, the rest of us can make more informed suggestions about what will fit your needs.
John Swanson
www.bikephysics.com
I guess my point is that there are many ways to spend your $700 and many ways to define "better". Once you define the qualities you want your new wheels to have, the rest of us can make more informed suggestions about what will fit your needs.
John Swanson
www.bikephysics.com
What John said. For less than $600 I got a set of custom wheels that blows the pants off of Ksyrium ES wheels and many other prebuilts for that matter. If I had to buy a prebuilt, it wouldn't be from Mavic. Hell, I wouldn't even buy their Cosmic Carbone Ultimate. Campy wheels would be my first choice. Shimano and Fulcrum should also be there.
I'm a campy guy myself, and for that price range, I would look at Zondas, Eurus' (pre 2006, still around), and Neutrons. Of course, I just had some Handbuilts done with Record Hubs and Velocity Aeroheads which are every bit as nice as my Eurus'. They where much less than $700. For $700 I got the wheels, a cassette, a chain and tires.dbackmtg said:
One thing I like about handbuilts is that I can easily replace something that breaks. If I break a spoke on my 2005 Eurus' they may be out of commission for a while since I doubt any of the local shops would carry ithe parts.
(Warning, the following is partly opinion: )
Best wheel for that money is Easton Tempest II. Deepish section, semi-bladed steel spokes, light and said to be durable.
Whatever you do, avoid box section rims (ie ES) and alloy spokes (ie ES), unless all your rides are steep hill climbs.
Best wheel for that money is Easton Tempest II. Deepish section, semi-bladed steel spokes, light and said to be durable.
Whatever you do, avoid box section rims (ie ES) and alloy spokes (ie ES), unless all your rides are steep hill climbs.
I concur with the other replys advising custom wheels. Check out this site:
http://www.spinlitecycling.com/
Lyle Strickland built a set of wheels for me last spring that have been great: Velocity Aerohead/Aerohead OC rims, White Industries hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes, radial-laced front, radial non-drive/3x drive rear. Light as a feather, strong like bull, great price, terrific service. You can't do better.
http://www.spinlitecycling.com/
Lyle Strickland built a set of wheels for me last spring that have been great: Velocity Aerohead/Aerohead OC rims, White Industries hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes, radial-laced front, radial non-drive/3x drive rear. Light as a feather, strong like bull, great price, terrific service. You can't do better.
dbackmtg said:
DT, DA or Record hubs, Velocity Aerohead rims(Off center rear), DT 14-15 spokes rear, Revolution s[pokes front, 32-3 cross all around, brass nipps.
Again, customs.
DT, Shimano or Campagnolo hubs, Ambrosio or Mavic rims. That is all you will ever need.
DT, Shimano or Campagnolo hubs, Ambrosio or Mavic rims. That is all you will ever need.
Powerful Pete said:
Ambrosio are nice, wish I could buy them wholesale. DT is my first choice tho, Followed by Velocity, then Ambrosio when I can get 'em. Mavic is a distant 4th.
I have some Mavic Elites that I race on and like them. Sure not the lightest or fastest but have done well over 6000kms of mainly racing on them(on mostly coarse grits surfaces) and haven't had to touch them re truing etc
I weight about 72kgs (whatever that is in pounds).
My Mavic Aksiums are nice wheels too. Bulletproof, cheaper etc .
I weight about 72kgs (whatever that is in pounds).
My Mavic Aksiums are nice wheels too. Bulletproof, cheaper etc
.
The Rolf Elan is way light and I know a couple of friends who have put over 10,000 miles on his and never had to true it and another who is at 2,000 and yet to true them. I'm on their Echelons only for a few months now but again never had to true them yetdbackmtg said:
dbackmtg said:
What you need is a durable wheel of reasonable weight so you can ride, ride lots, like Eddy says. Your equipment will only mean a lot in the equation of bike and rider when something fails. Climbing better is a matter of fitness, fit, fat on you, finesse, not wheels or bike.
Peter@vecchios said:
What he said.
This is a point that seems lost on or missed by a lot of folks. Bike weight and component weight are not the big deal that some say that they are. Building a light bike for the technichal/geek challenge of building a durable lightweight, everyday bike is fine; however, there aren't any substantive performance gains to be had just by lightening up bike bits.
Riding a lot is the key to climbing well, as is limiting post digestive Nacho Cheese Dorito storage about the waistline.
I like that reality and sometimes my local riding buddies mistake my desire for lighter bike as if I believe it will help performance.alienator said:
One side of me believe stearnly in training and the other side is one that loves to tinker in my shop with metallic things and various similar projects. I was the same when I did waterskiing. I would sometimes create a boat component just to add some bling to my boat. Other than that it added nothing to the performance of the boat.
Whoa, whoa, whoa now! What the hell is this? An outbreak of rational thought and good advice on the internet? That's like, one of the horesmen of the apocalypse or something. I should go look that up just in case...
John Swanson
www.bikephysics.com
John Swanson
www.bikephysics.com
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