When did OCP became an issue in cycling?



sogood

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I understand that cycle racing was very much a blue collar sport in its early days. And in relation to that, when did OCP became prominant within the sport? Recent or was it there all along?
 
What the f*** is an OCP? "Oregon Catholic Press"?? That's the first result when I searched it in google.

My best guess would be "Orange-Colored ****" for eating too much grease during ride.
 
Ocpd...obsessive compulsive personality disorder

What the eff is wrong with people who posts abbreviations nobody knows about. He must be from an alternate reality where cyclists wee in their drink bottles for electrolytes!

I did another google search about OCP and bikes and found 'Obsessive Compulsive Poser' and 'Optimum Chainring Position'.

I'm betting on Optimum Chainring Position.... Still what the eff. In the early days of bike racing, people didn't care for optimum chainring position??
 
Been on cycling forums for years, since 2002.

Ocpd has always been sort of a joke because cyclists get obsessed with collecting more bikes and equipment. This forum is not very active anymore so it's not as commonly used as it is on ther sites. Mostly a joke about cycling personality.
 
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Been on cycling forums for years, since 2002.

Ocpd has always been sort of a joke because cyclists get obsessed with collecting more bikes and equipment. This forum is not very active anymore so it's not as commonly used as it is on ther sites. Mostly a joke about cycling personality.

I have no idea. Though cycling is my #1 hobby atm, I never got OCD with it. Maybe because I couldn't afford to have spending spree on bike stuff, even the cheap things you can buy for your bike.

Still I managed to keep the hobby sustainably cheap. I know people on much more expensive bikes having real mechanical issues more often than I do and they already maintain their bikes quite well enough.
 
Those guys with expensive bikes aren't very likely ocp.

I for instance, at once had 11 functioning bikes including 2 tandems and wanted more. Had to think about it, now we only have 6, but I still want more ha ha ha. No room though.

But my bikes are perfectly tuned, no issues. My 98 Cannondale people think it's new.

My Madone is 2014 and runs great.

Ocp? I get upset because the professionals at the local shops about 5 of them, don't build my wheels to perfection.

I read up on it and now build my own, to perfection. Outlasting any of those clowns.

I've built about 10 for myself and stripped down about 5 wheels built by the pros so that they were perfect.
 
Those guys with expensive bikes aren't very likely ocp.

I for instance, at once had 11 functioning bikes including 2 tandems and wanted more. Had to think about it, now we only have 6, but I still want more ha ha ha. No room though.

But my bikes are perfectly tuned, no issues. My 98 Cannondale people think it's new.

My Madone is 2014 and runs great.

Ocp? I get upset because the professionals at the local shops about 5 of them, don't build my wheels to perfection.

I read up on it and now build my own, to perfection. Outlasting any of those clowns.

I've built about 10 for myself and stripped down about 5 wheels built by the pros so that they were perfect.

You might actually be OCP!

In the past, I have rim brake bikes. The wheels are truer than wheels today build for disc brakes but not perfect but didn't really mind.

Today, my dirt cheap disc brake wheels are factory-machine trued and off by 1mm, both wheels but could never tell if it's causing any handling issues so I just leave it be. Most recreational riders I know have their wheels perfectly trued by the LBS (labor here is cheap so everyone does it). They do it even on their disc brake bikes. Well, except me.

It's probably understandable if you're doing it on a rim brake bike to avoid any brake rub and unnecessary wear on the rim. But on a disc brake bike. Unless your wheels is way way untrue, that you can literally feel it, it's not going to cause any handling problems.
 
You might actually be OCP!

In the past, I have rim brake bikes. The wheels are truer than wheels today build for disc brakes but not perfect but didn't really mind.

Today, my dirt cheap disc brake wheels are factory-machine trued and off by 1mm, both wheels but could never tell if it's causing any handling issues so I just leave it be. Most recreational riders I know have their wheels perfectly trued by the LBS (labor here is cheap so everyone does it). They do it even on their disc brake bikes. Well, except me.

It's probably understandable if you're doing it on a rim brake bike to avoid any brake rub and unnecessary wear on the rim. But on a disc brake bike. Unless your wheels is way way untrue, that you can literally feel it, it's not going to cause any handling problems.
I actually think most wheel people at the shops are clowns. The free tune ups after buying a new bike, 30 days have caused broken spokes.

Too many of those clowns turn nipples without verifying that the spoke remains still. So they end up binding clicking ticking and breaking.

I won't let the shops touch my wheels.
 
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I actually think most wheel people at the shops are clowns. The free tune ups after buying a new bike, 30 days have caused broken spokes.

Too many of those clowns turn nipples without verifying that the spoke remains still. So they end up binding clicking ticking and breaking.

I won't let the shops touch my wheels.

I have to assume I'm better off having leaving my wheels machine-trued by the factory that manufactured it (albeit, not perfectly aligned), than having the clowns true my wheels. They're disc brakes anyway.

I think I heard some people say that machine truing results to a more durable, longer-lasting wheel because the automated process prioritize correct and even spoke tension over rim alignment. Such wheel is even more 'taco' resistant than hand-trued wheel. While hand-trued wheels prioritize rim alignment at the cost of some unevenness in spoke tension.
 
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I have to assume I'm better off having leaving my wheels machine-trued by the factory that manufactured it (albeit, not perfectly aligned), than having the clowns true my wheels. They're disc brakes anyway and disc rotors are totally unaffected by the process of wheel truing.

I think I heard some people say that machine truing results to a more durable, longer-lasting wheel because the automated process prioritize correct and even spoke tension over rim alignment. Such wheel is even more 'taco' resistant than hand-trued wheel. While hand-trued wheels prioritize rim alignment at the cost of some unevenness in spoke tension.
 
I have to assume I'm better off having leaving my wheels machine-trued by the factory that manufactured it (albeit, not perfectly aligned), than having the clowns true my wheels. They're disc brakes anyway.

I think I heard some people say that machine truing results to a more durable, longer-lasting wheel because the automated process prioritize correct and even spoke tension over rim alignment. Such wheel is even more 'taco' resistant than hand-trued wheel. While hand-trued wheels prioritize rim alignment at the cost of some unevenness in spoke tension.

You're light enough to ride just about anything I'm guessing ha ha ha.

Over 200 it seems the wheels are more of a concern.

Any machined stock wheels I've had have been loosened and re tensioned. But either way I am lucky to get 2000 out of a stock set rear wheel.

Gotten to the point of my last two new bikes, I tossed the machied wheels building my own even before buying the bike.

Shop built wheels, same components 2,000 miles.

Stock wheels, 2,000 miles.

My own built wheels with lots of TLC, 20,000 plus miles and still true. I only have retired my own wheels after 20k because the brake surface wore thin developing a blister but still true.

Conventional classic wheels. I don't need no stinkin' cheap Chinese carbon ha ha ha!
 

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You're light enough to ride just about anything I'm guessing ha ha ha.

Over 200 it seems the wheels are more of a concern.

Any machined stock wheels I've had have been loosened and re tensioned. But either way I am lucky to get 2000 out of a stock set rear wheel.

Gotten to the point of my last two new bikes, I tossed the machied wheels building my own even before buying the bike.

Shop built wheels, same components 2,000 miles.

Stock wheels, 2,000 miles.

My own built wheels with lots of TLC, 20,000 plus miles and still true. I only have retired my own wheels after 20k because the brake surface wore thin developing a blister but still true.

Conventional classic wheels. I don't need no stinkin' cheap Chinese carbon ha ha ha!

Looks classic indeed! At first look I'd think you have all-metal bike.

I also have 32 spokes on my wheels both front and back. Probably overkill but in our severely damaged roads, it's just right.

I have around 5k miles on my cheap alloy wheels. It was 0.5 mm out of true out of the box. After colliding with an unseen object that is underwater right in the middle of the road during a flood, it got knocked out of true by 1 mm. I visually and hand inspected the wheels and nothing else was damaged. I rode it another 4k miles and now, the wheels stayed in exactly the same condition since the flood USO (Unidentified Submerged Object) collision.

I heard from carbon fiber repair specialist that carbon wheels even the best ones out there + rim brakes are a bad idea. It wears faster than aluminum and the heat of braking, worse in mountain descents can delaminate the material, eventually leading to catastrophic failure at the worst possible time (on a high speed descent). This is where you get the horrible saying from many recreational cyclists to very sparingly use the brakes on descent and get comfortable going down at suicidal speeds. I know someone who got killed in a descent with such mindset and several others who got sent to the ER crashing down at high speed while their slower companions was able to avoid what ever caused their faster companions to crash.

Although they used to be very popular with Pros in races, they don't really put big miles on their race bikes and with less body weight, it is less of an issue with them.
 
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Yup, if I had a wheel that went out .5 mm, app .020 I wouldn't worry about it.

My previous 36 spoke wheel got knocked off from 0.7 mm to 1.5 mm out of true when a motorcycle broadsided my rear wheel. The motorcyclist merged a very busy main road where I was, didn't even slowed down while looking behind at incoming traffic so by the time he saw me right in front of him, he was unable to brake in time. I didn't fell down and just kept on riding. The bike felt completely undamaged at first since everything kept working perfectly so didn't worried about it. It wasn't until a few weeks later when I re-lubed the chain I saw several spokes got bent and the rim had tiny short cracks at the nipples where the spokes got bent. I also noticed the wheel got out of true by 1.5 mm.

I kept on riding that wheel for another 3k miles without bothering to fix the damage in the same severely bumpy roads hitting them at 30 mph downhill. The wheel stayed in exactly the condition for 3k miles except for the freewheel spindle which got eventually got bent from the road bumps. Instead of trying to fix the spindle, I finally replaced/upgraded the rear wheel with a new wheel with freehub.

I suppose, I'm the opposite of OCP for someone with cycling as their #1 hobby!:D