When to Upgrade to a better bike?



jwroubaix

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Jun 6, 2007
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I have a 2007 Specialized Roubaix that I purchased when I didn't know if I'd really like cycling. I do enjoy the sport, i'm certainly a recreational rider, i ride 2-3x a week usually 15-20 miles a ride with rides up to 35 miles. The bikes is more on the entry level, it does have 105 components but it's a triple. I've upgraded the rims and handlebar tape to make it look a little better. I'll be honest, I like my bike to have a cool color scheme, my problem with a lot of new bikes is that they just don't look that cool. Even the $10k Specialized bikes don't look that great. Just going off looks I like some of the PInarello frames. Would it really makes sense for me to upgrade to a more expensive bike? How big of a difference would I notice with ride quality and shifting smoothness if I spent the additional money? I've also that about going used as you can get good deals on bikes that were hardly ridden. thanks for your input.
 
It sounds like you've got a great starting point with the Roubaix.

Personally I would look at the upgrades that you could buy such as wheels, bars and saddle... I was always told that it's cheaper to drop a few lbs than to buy your way to lightness.
 
There have been improvements to the Roubaix frame since 2007, but whether it would be worth upgrading for that reason alone, I don't know. Would you notice subtle improvements in stiffness? Based on your riding style, probably not.

New Roubaixs, and bikes of comparable quality, start at around 2 grand and go up to over 5 figures. You can buy yourself a lot of component upgrades for 2 grand. Nice set of quality alloy rims, and the new 105 group, with a compact crank instead of the triple. Rims like Easton EA 90s run somewhere between $700-$900 depending on the source, and the 5800 105 groups are going for around $500. You're still $500 south of the cost of a new entry level carbon ride.
 
If you don't want a Triple then you can simply REMOVE the Granny...
  • If you want to change the Q-Factor, replace the BB (if ISIS) or Crankset.
If you don't like the way your bike or the new bikes look, then buy two rattle cans of FLAT BLACK and re-spray paint the frame ... If you don't like your 105 shifers then your BEST OPTION is a pair of Campagnolo shifters ...
  • Either a 10-speed or 11-speed pair of Campagnolo shifters can be mated to your Shimano derailleurs.
New tires & tubes ... And/Or new wheels, too.
 
I don't see anything wrong about going with the looks. The more you like it, the more you'll ride it! That'll be a bigger difference than the groupset.
 
Thanks for the responses. Would an upgraded bike with better components be noticed by me? Would it shift better, feel better, etc?
 
If you switch groupset brands you will definitely feel a difference since the shifting mechanism itself is different between Shimano/Campy/SRAM. At this level, whether it feels better or not is completely subjective (and a religious choice for some).

Once you've chosen a brand you really need to go to your LBS and try out the different tiers to see if you perceive any difference and justify your purchase based on price. As an extreme example you will certainly notice a difference between, say, a Sora shifter vs electronic shifters. But between Tiagra, 105, and Ultegra? Hard to truly quantify in words, trying to explain feel is like trying to describe a color. "Yeah, it clicks into the right gear with just the level of smoothness and feedback I was expecting in comparison to the Claris". Just need to try it.



jwroubaix said:
Would an upgraded bike with better components be noticed by me? Would it shift better, feel better, etc?

You might notice a HUGE difference if you haven't serviced your bike since 2007 and then hop on a brand new bike. I've purchased brand new bikes and think man everything feels way better than my current bike. Some of these perceptions fueled by post-purchase rationalization. Then eventually I get my old bike serviced (new cables, wheels trued, BB overhaul, etc... the whole shebang) and it feels like new again, in its own way.

jwroubaix said:
I'll be honest, I like my bike to have a cool color scheme, my problem with a lot of new bikes is that they just don't look that cool. Just going off looks I like some of the PInarello frames. Would it really makes sense for me to upgrade to a more expensive bike? How big of a difference would I notice with ride quality and shifting smoothness if I spent the additional money?
Ride quality largely depends on fit and saddle and honestly you could buy a 15 grand bike and have it feel horrible by your standards. It's a matter of communicating your needs for comfort and working with a competent fitter. After that, this is simply a matter of justifying sense of ownership of a bike you identify with vs cost. If you look at the bike and think "man I wanna go ride", "man, I love being seen on this cool looking bike", "man this is a great paint job" and if you find satisfaction and value through that, then sure perhaps it makes sense to dish out the money. I think the difference in shifting smoothness is totally secondary since modern Shimano components will always shift fine given that it's tuned and maintained properly (the only time this becomes first order is if there's a religious reasoning behind your choice... see 1st and 2nd sentence).
 
Quote by mpre53:
"and the 5800 105 groups are going for around $500."

$404 for 11-speed 5800 when on sale at Chain Reaction, Planet Cyclery and Pro Bike Kit. It was a low as $389 back in December. I got 5800 on the TREK Emonda winter beater and bought some 105 spares and Ultegra upgrades. Compared to Campy they are basically giving shimaNO stuff away.

If a guy shops the sales carefully you can upgrade or re-fit a frame for around $700-$800. PBK just had shimaNO RS-21/24 wheels on sale for $159. Western bike has Mavic Aksium One's for $199. There's less than $600 for a complete group and wheel replacement.

$100-$200 will get a complete FSA, DEDA, etc. aluminum cockpit and seat with some wheeling and dealing around the web.

If the frame is still in good shape and fits like pair of broken-in comfortable shoes...upgrade away!
 
jwroubaix said:
I have a 2007 Specialized Roubaix that I purchased when I didn't know if I'd really like cycling. I do enjoy the sport, i'm certainly a recreational rider, i ride 2-3x a week usually 15-20 miles a ride with rides up to 35 miles. The bikes is more on the entry level, it does have 105 components but it's a triple. I've upgraded the rims and handlebar tape to make it look a little better. I'll be honest, I like my bike to have a cool color scheme, my problem with a lot of new bikes is that they just don't look that cool. Even the $10k Specialized bikes don't look that great. Just going off looks I like some of the PInarello frames. Would it really makes sense for me to upgrade to a more expensive bike? How big of a difference would I notice with ride quality and shifting smoothness if I spent the additional money? I've also that about going used as you can get good deals on bikes that were hardly ridden. thanks for your input.
FWIW. There is no real need for you to buy a new bike ...

If you want a smoother shifting, then you should consider either Shimano's or Campagnolo's ELECTRONIC shifting ...

OR, simply replace your Shimano 105 shifters with a pair of 11-speed (or, 10-speed if you are willing to hubbub the rear derailleur cable) CAMPAGNOLO shifters ... no derailleur replacement required.

If you have more money to spend than you know what to do with (because you will probably, eventually move on from SRAM to Campagnolo to fulfill your quest for better shifting -- FRONT & REAR), then you could also consider replacing your 105 shifters with some SRAM Force shifters + SRAM Force derailleurs.

There is probably NO mechanical advantage ot the Red shifters-and-components over the Force shifters-and-components ...

Why pay more unless the cosmetics and/or presumed-to-be-minimal weight advantage mean something to you?

If you want a smoother ride, then you should consider either FATTER tires than what you are using AND/OR a frame with a LONGER wheelbase.
 

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