Which Peugeot Is That?



Le indeed... Oh man i might just get a rigida for the front or something...

Le freewheel ain't that "free" anymore... The cassette is totally stuck fix gear style...








http://youtu.be/EY2PRnqz7Jg
 
Find that French wench...er...wrench! Get the lockring off and that Helicomatic hunk will literally fall off the hub in only 1/2 a turn counterclockwise.

Flooding it with oil and cracking it apart with a pair of chain whips (whip it good)...it should disassemble like any normal freewheel of its day...if necessary. My guess is just repeated soakings in warm kerosene or diesel fuel will get it turn again.

The big question will be if the pawl spring were reduced to iron oxide powder over the years of outdoor storage. Your friends in Germany...the Sachs folks...might 'lend' you a NOS Helicomatic. How's your credit with German bike shops?

Since you're going for a new front wheel, you might as well invade France and grab a nice pair of Mavic Monthlery rims on Normandy, Aton or standard style Maillard hubs. Use Swiss DT spokes. Those French Robergel's on my Paramount break if you look at them wrong.

I give the video a 65. It was easy to dance to, but I didn't understand the lyrics.
 
I think I will just limit the work I will do to scraping some rust... Already scratched the atax handlebar. :(

I know a shop that stocks wheels from that era and will visit it...

Apparently the cranks need a special removal tool. They have a thread that the removal tool goes in to push them out of the BB...

Oh man isn't restoration a trip. :D

 
...and remember...there are no 'incorrect' parts on a French bike as long as the parts come from France and were made within two years of the frame having decals slapped on it.

Peugeots...St. Etienne (ubiquitous in my area)...Motobecane's...Roger Riviere's (also sold by the hundreds in my area to college students)...Follis...LeJeune...catalogs and specifications were merely 'suggestions'. Whatever French socialist trade unions had parts available that month after the 3rd 'people's workers strike! of the month...those got bolted on the sloppily brazed and painted by blind chimpanzees frames. Decals were usually supplied by 'Self-Destructo Decal Companie' of Paris.

Clearcoat? Mon doodoo! Surely you beau geste.
 
Decals tre banal! :D

Orange metallic flake... Blue tape... C'est tre chic for ze grocery ztore! :D
 
"I think I will just limit the work I will do to scraping some rust..."

Huh?!?!

Did the Germans just stop when they bombed Pearl Harbor?

Did Napoleon just stop at Waterloo?

Hell no!

The Germans...they went on to build good stuff...and the BOUGHT the damned French! It was far cheaper than mounting another Blitzkrieg.

And Napoleon? He went on to build John Deere tractors at Waterloo. Iowa.

Proving, once again, that rust scrapers never win and winners never scrape rust.
 
Good stuff... :D, except the Golf the other German stuff isn't that great. :D

The Danish, they make good stuff! Swedes too. :)

Time to clean Le parts... Of to the hardware store! :D


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIaXoKXiPLQ
 
"The Danish, they make good stuff! Swedes too."

The Danish make great Danish. The Swedes may crappy furniture we have to assemble, ourselves. But they do have some hot wimmenz.
 
They make some sweet wood carvings of pigs too...

Fugget about IKEA... :D Get shelled up and visit the "LFS" (local furniture shops) there...

(Shell up... After your latest winters there... lololol :D )


 
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Nice porker! That looks like it would sell for $500 here as some rare Appalachian Folk Art.

Remember Saab cars? Well...we're STILL trying to forget them over here.
 
It's from a Danish furniture shop I visited in Kobehaaavnenungen as a student. It was the only thing I could afford in there. :D

They had some really nice handmade furniture in there. :)

Saab... Volvos are not that bad... Both are pretty boring and expensive but they are well put together. They also seem to last longer then some, hmmm let's say 80-90's Alfa Romeos. :D

Have you ever heard of... Lancia??? :D

Cleaned all the parts and oiled them to store until assembly.

Ya think I'm gonna find new screws and bolts? They don't clean that well... :/
 
Small part such as washers, nuts, bolts, bearing cups/cones can be tumbled.

If you know anyone that works with gem stones, makes jewelry or reloads their own brass cased rifle or pistol ammunition (OK...so you might have to come to America for that) ask if you can borrow their tumbler or have them run a small batch of cleaned bike parts through it.

Tumblers can be of the rotary type or the vibratory type and the polishing/cleaning media can vary, but that shouldn't be too much of a concern as you are just looking to get the parts really clean and put a new shine on them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321746875672?lpid=82&chn=ps

Look around...you can find them starting around $25 and once you use a tumbler just one time, you will find a bunch of uses for cleaning and polishing small parts. It's as simple as tossing the parts in, turning it on and walking away.

Ultra-Sonic cleaners are great for pure cleaning operations, but a tumbler and the right media will polish steel, brass, aluminum, etc. to finishes never seen on factory-made parts.

The best thing about polishing with a tumbler is that it usually take a beer or six worth of unmanned operation time to get the parts clean.

Lancias...we call those a more expensive, less reliable FIAT.
 
There are gun shops here which sell eveything gun related, except guns, unless you're a cop... If I go to the Rolex shop to ultra sonic clean Peugeot bike screws I'm gonna end up in the drunk booth. :D

Might just try to find some new ones and just clean the odd parts from the simplex shifters. (flanges and washers).

I don't even have a torque wrench... won't be getting a tumble cleaner any time soon. :D

BB is out with a bit of help from the LBS. :) Stem is still stuck and soaking in the chems. :D

Might get a drill extension and see if I can do some rust work on the frame with a brush disk on the seat tube and headtube. The top tube is sealed on the connection with the seat tube but it doesn't matter cause its internal routing... rust dust is rattling inside... Might get lucky with the bottom tube and chain / seat stays...

Then it's off to the hardware store again for paint removers, sandpapers and stuff.

So far so bad. :D except some nasty scratches I did on the one nice part, the ATAX handlebar...

The hoods were black After all, or maybe it's the lube... :D

Should get a copy of Carpenter's "Christine" too. :D

Lancia -is just plain tacky-. :D





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kK52zBc_NUY
 
CAMPYBOB said:
Find that French wench...er...wrench! Get the lockring off and that Helicomatic hunk will literally fall off the hub in only 1/2 a turn counterclockwise.
FWIW. This may be stating the obvious ...

My recollection is that the Helicomatic's lockring has a left hand thread ...

Don't lose it -- it may-or-may-not be the same size as one would find on a Track hub.

Also, the size of the ball bearings is smaller than you would think a rear hub would have.
 
alfeng said:
FWIW. This may be stating the obvious ...




My recollection is that the Helicomatic's lockring has a left hand thread ...

Don't lose it -- it may-or-may-not be the same size as one would find on a Track hub.

Also, the size of the ball bearings is smaller than you would think a rear hub would have.

The LBS sprayed it with some TF2 and the cassette spins nicely now... They don't have the key to remove it of course... I don't think that even the Luvre has it...

I'll just clean it on the wheel.

I kept the ball bearings to get some same ones...
 
Alf...I meant the freewheel assembly, itself, will spin off in a half-turn or less. The lockring...no clue which way it turns. Pictures of the interrupted thread 'look' to be a normal RH thread. Better do some research before applying torque.

Personally. I would soak the Hell out of the lockring in Kroil oil...call the Loooove for a wrench...and gently tap the wrench just a few degrees in BOTH directions to start loosening up the thing. It will quickly become obvious which direction is the one needed to remove the locking. And yes, don't over do it. That interrupted thread is not going to offer as much strength as a non-interrupted thread.


Volnix, nice job on the brakes and the chainrings. You own a bench grinder? A cotton wheel and a stick of buffing compound will put a mirror-bright shine on that aluminum.
 
CAMPYBOB said:
Volnix, nice job on the brakes and the chainrings. You own a bench grinder? A cotton wheel and a stick of buffing compound will put a mirror-bright shine on that aluminum.

The cassette needs some kind of wrench bit which is not exactly ISO to remove. :p

There's no reason to remove it yet... The bearings are not sealed anyway so I can just clean the cassette and with a brush on the wheel and put some grease... The wheel needs a new spoke and some truing anyway... I kept the bearings from the axle for reference later.

Fanks! :) Its just what I managed to do with a wire brush, soda, lemon dish washer, oil, hand washing dust soap etc.

I have a handheld sander which might be getting some Velcro buffing - polishing disks... Also have a drill which also might be able to fit with with a polishing bit... Still a looong way to go until there though lol.

Damn that brake pad track on the rim looks dodgy. :D Not to mention unsafe. :D

I might just get a "Banal" wheel for the front, one with an actual braking surface.

Also, best to toss the brake pad fittings and put some v brake ones or modern ones? They will probably fit... Or get some compatible Koolstop ones? The old ones didn't seem to hold that well on the fittings. :D


http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mTcqFy56DJxKmvdizUsGmnw.jpg