Blair P. Houghton wrote:
> sal bass wrote:
> > people say this stuff washes off in the rain. i've not experienced
> > that. this stuff sticks like crazy to a chain.
> >
> > people say it builds up on various drivetrain parts. it's only
> > supposed to be applied to the chain! and in most cases, people apply
> > WAY too much. simple common sense, if you apply too much it's going to
> > make a mess.
>
> After about a year of using 80-weight hypoid gear oil,
> which is easy to apply and smooth as p**** for a while,
> but attracts sooty crud like duct tape attracts duct tape,
> and transfers it to any fabric (including human skin) that
> passes within ten inches and looks askance at it, I've
> gone back to WL.
>
> And this time I'm intentionally reapplying every 3-4 rides
> without so much as wiping, just to see what the buildup
> characteristics are like.
>
> It's only a couple of weeks in, though, so all I can say so far
> is that this stuff is not as clean after a week than it is when
> it was clean.
>
three to four rides is fine if the chain starts to get a bit noisy.
but not wiping it afterwards is just asking for trouble....looks as
though you found it.
> > someone posted about the shelf life...i've have a half gallon thatt's
> > been on a shelf for about 8 months now. no problems yet.
>
> My bottle is about 2 years old and lives in an Arizona garage.
>
> It precipitates within a day, but a shake or three turns it back
> into what it's supposed to look like.
>
> > you really should clean the chain before each application. each
> > application shoudl last about 100 miles. you'll know when it's time to
> > apply more as the chain will sound dry. you'll want to clean it and
> > re-appply before that time.
>
> How clean would you recommend? Dishwasher? Chainwasher?
> Wipe it with a rag that's wet with degreaser?
>
just remove the chain from the bike....lay it out on a flat
surface....add a bit of WD to a bursh and scrub between the rollers and
clean the plates. rinse with water and towel or air dry. it sholdn't
take more than 5 - 10 minutes. WD works right away and you won't have
to make but a few passes with the brush.
> > one thing i've found quite handy is....set the chain inteh largest ring
> > and some middle cog. after the initial application of WL (a steady
> > stream for 7 pedal revolutions)
>
> One circuit of the chain is a bit under 3 revs.
>
ok......but i think people are just pouring this stuff on like syrup on
a stack of pancakes.
> I set the gears to my cruising gear, so they teeth get fresh
> lube on them. Could be irrelevant, but why let some other
> gear get the bath?
>
because your goal is not to coat the chainrings in lubricant. this is
the reason most seem to have such horrible build up.
inside the rollers are where the chain needs it most. it's where the
wear occurs. i'm sure the plates might show some wear at some
point...but the rollers are where it's at.
> > i'd taken various portions of chain apart after this and find almost
> > twice as much waxy deposits in the rollers after a flaming on compared
> > to just pouring it on.
>
> I bet a hair dryer does as well without risking your eyebrows.
>
i've tried a hairdryer....not too bad but it seems the heat from plame
works best. and if you do this outside...you'll have to get a long
extension....just seemed more complicated.
> > obviously, there are those who are too inept to manage this method.
> > those people have burned holes in their livingroom carpets (OH! THE
> > HUMANITY!!!!) and burned themselves.
>
> You do bike maintenance on the carpet?
>
nope. wood floors. carpet is so 1980s.
under the stand i've set down some interlocking squares of dense foam
that's sold at hardware stores. mostly to catch stuff that happens to
fall but also to protect the floor. cheap, handy and easy to clean.