Why Is This Bike So Hard To Pedal?



lectraplayer

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May 11, 2014
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Out of three different bikes, all with similar "triangle" measurements (handlebar down tube-seat stay-crank measurements) one bike rides slow, and feels like it has a lot of resistance. My first thought was the brakes, so I backed them off and rode without them with no change. It also feels like the crank is way back behind me, though it's in the same place as my other bikes. Even "stand and stomp" doesn't give me the speed it does on my other bikes, while being harder. I use similar gearing on all my bikes. What am I missing?
 
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Can you swap the wheelset on the "slow" bike with one of the wheelsets from one of the other bikes which you have?

What type of BB does the "slow" bike have ...

And, what does the crank feel like when there isn't a chain attached to it?

Who does the maintenance on your bikes?

When was the last time the "slow" bike was serviced?

BTW. Posting pictures may-or-may-not help.
 
Photo capabilities of this site's software are currently nonfunctional...

Everything seems to spin freely, and I have been swapping parts to get the ride I really want... I have managed to lighten this bike up by several pounds by swapping rims. I also went from the knobbies that come on it to a Specialized Fatboy 26x1.25 up front, and a Bontrager Hank 26x2.2 in back. The Hank is about all I can get before rubbing, but I see no rubbing. Both have 80 PSI and were chosen for being racing slicks. I also have went crazy with the axle grease, and I adjusted the cone nuts for a free spin without slack. What am I missing?

BTW: as mentioned, I maintain my bikes myself, and have finished doing so about a month ago.
 
Do your other bikes have tires of the same size and also carry 80 PSI?
 
lectraplayer said:
Photo capabilities of this site's software are currently nonfunctional...
For the time being, you can ATTACH any pictures which you would normally embed ...

lectraplayer said:
Everything seems to spin freely, and I have been swapping parts to get the ride I really want... I have managed to lighten this bike up by several pounds by swapping rims. I also went from the knobbies that come on it to a Specialized Fatboy 26x1.25 up front, and a Bontrager Hank 26x2.2 in back. The Hank is about all I can get before rubbing, but I see no rubbing. Both have 80 PSI and were chosen for being racing slicks. I also have went crazy with the axle grease, and I adjusted the cone nuts for a free spin without slack. What am I missing?

BTW: as mentioned, I maintain my bikes myself, and have finished doing so about a month ago.
FYI. This is probably stating what is obvious to most people, but I guess that it wasn't obvious to me ...

And, a long time ago I had to discover for myself that different weight greases have an impact on resistance ...

So, thinking I could extend the maintenance period, I re-packed all my bike's hub & BB bearings with some "red" marine grease ...

The result was smooth BUT so stiff that I didn't even bother to try the result on the road ...

And, immediately re-packed the bearings with the of-dubious-cost-benefit-value Phil Wood grease that I had been using.

I now use either "White Lithium" grease or something which I deem to be lighter (if the occassion allows/warrants).

That's a long way of saying that if you aren't using White Lithium grease, then you may want to re-pack the specific bearings & reserve the (possibly?) heavier grease which you may-or-may-not have been using for your headset.
 
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My first guess have to be the tires too considering you've checked the brakes already, nothing else could be causing the resistance. That I am thinking of. :)
 
I am trying a rear tire change on a similar theory Gelsemium. I'm wondering if that Hank may be rubbing and I don't know it. ...though since I use the same grease on all my bikes, and I can ride my full floater at 15-20 mph easily, but am struggling to get 10 mph on this roadie, grease may be eliminated.
 
That is one thing I never had on my bikes, something to measure speed. It's cool to have them, but it's just another piece slowing you down too.
 
What a strange situation. I'd have to agree that it's the tires, but I'm no expert with bikes. Maybe the bike is possessed. I've had identical bikes that wouldn't perform the same as each other before. The issue often had to do with gearing or a simple tire problem - nothing that seemed like a mystery. However, I know far too well how something seemingly simple turns out to be the most confounding issue in the world.
 
I've changed the tire and it's still harder than I would expect. it actually feels as if the frame is shorter, and the pedals are behind me. I'm wondering if the "triangle" may be rotated or something.

Anyway, I'm giving up on this bike for now, and parting it to fix another bike. We'll see if it's one of the parts or the frame...
 
lectraplayer said:
I've changed the tire and it's still harder than I would expect. it actually feels as if the frame is shorter, and the pedals are behind me. I'm wondering if the "triangle" may be rotated or something.

Anyway, I'm giving up on this bike for now, and parting it to fix another bike. We'll see if it's one of the parts or the frame...
Ummm ...

You have to clarify whether the frame is "similar" and set up the same OR if it isn't ...

Not to ask the obvious, but apparently it needs to be asked ...

Do you have a TAPE MEASURE which you can use to actually measure the top tube ... are the the distance between the seat post & a line dropped from the top tube to the BB actually the same or just "similar" to one another?

What is the seatpost cradle's offset compared to those on your other bikes?

How wide are the handlebars AND how different is the height relative to the top of the saddle?

Do you have a workstand of some sort which will help you tune your bikes before you take them on the road?

Do the other bikes have 26" wheels?!?

Is the gearing really the same?

BTW. You can probably post pics, now. Doing so may still be beneficial.
 
The gears are the same. Heck. They ARE the gears (and rims and tires and crank and chain and derailer!) from the other bike. As mentioned, the measurements are the same according to the tape measure.

Also, today I swapped the parts to yet another frame I had set aside (because I destroyed the rear rim and derailer) and went for a ride. The ride was fast and easy. ...so apparantly it has something to do with that one frame.

Also, while doing this, I noticed the chain stay of the bike I moved the parts to is a bit shorter. This partially confirms my suspicion about the geometry.
 
lectraplayer said:
The gears are the same. Heck. They ARE the gears (and rims and tires and crank and chain and derailer!) from the other bike. As mentioned, the measurements are the same according to the tape measure.

Also, today I swapped the parts to yet another frame I had set aside (because I destroyed the rear rim and derailer) and went for a ride. The ride was fast and easy. ...so apparantly it has something to do with that one frame.

Also, while doing this, I noticed the chain stay of the bike I moved the parts to is a bit shorter. This partially confirms my suspicion about the geometry.
FYI. The measurements cannot be "the same according to the tape measure" if the "chain stay of the bike ... is a bit shorter" ...

There is either an unintentional imprecision in your words or an unintentional understanding of your own observations of the various frames which you have ...

And/Or, possibly of how the components have been installed.
 
I did not put a tape measure on my chain stay but I did measure between the top of my seat stay, top of my steering down tube, and the center of the crank on the frame. While the tubes run differently on these frames, I pulled my measurements to the same points on the frames themselves, excluding the "parts" (seat and its tube, fork and related, etc.). The main way I observed the chain stay was by moving the drivetrane in its entirety (including the crank itself), and wound up with extra slack in the chain I didn't start with.

Given the "fit and feel" I'm observing, I would expect to see the crank sitting in a different position relative to vertical taken from the seat itself (with tires and everything installed) but there is nothing visible.
 
lectraplayer said:
I did not put a tape measure on my chain stay but I did measure between the top of my seat stay, top of my steering down tube, and the center of the crank on the frame. While the tubes run differently on these frames, I pulled my measurements to the same points on the frames themselves, excluding the "parts" (seat and its tube, fork and related, etc.). The main way I observed the chain stay was by moving the drivetrane in its entirety (including the crank itself), and wound up with extra slack in the chain I didn't start with.

Given the "fit and feel" I'm observing, I would expect to see the crank sitting in a different position relative to vertical taken from the seat itself (with tires and everything installed) but there is nothing visible.
Okay ...

Possibly my last question(s) for you on this topic ...

Does the "harder to pedal" bike have a rear suspension?!?

If so, do the OTHER bike frames which you have not have a rear suspension?
 
The two frames I have been trading parts between have been stiff. However I do have another bike, that takes the same parts, with a rear suspension. Only the "red frame" is problematic, so I have everything on the "black frame." Both are nonsuspension mountain bikes.
 
lectraplayer said:
The two frames I have been trading parts between have been stiff. However I do have another bike, that takes the same parts, with a rear suspension. Only the "red frame" is problematic, so I have everything on the "black frame." Both are nonsuspension mountain bikes.
Well, because you have posted what might be considered a nonsense reply ...

Let me say that in another thread, someone (facetiously, BTW) said that red bikes are always faster.

In short, if there is a difference, you apparently cannot discern the difference enough to describe it and therefore the problem probably cannot be remedied through replying to your vaguely transmitted descriptions ...

In lieu of pictures & a better description of the problems which you feel you have with your bicycle frame(s), I recommend that you actually learn to use your tape measure BECAUSE while bicycle maintenance is not rocket science, it does take a certain level of mechanical facility ...

I've said it before, if a person can remove the lid from a jar of pickles & screw it back on then s/he is capable of performing work on his-or-her own bike.

Good luck.
 
lectraplayer said:
Gelsemium, a GPS enabled smartphone works wonders as a cyclocomputer, without the drag. :D
Ha, gotta love technology, but believe it or not I still don't use a smartphone, but I am looking forward to the day when I have all those wonders of tech at my service. :)
 

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