will Campy cranks fit Shimano bottom bracket?
- Thread starter Mart
- Start date
Mart said:
Yes and no. It's best not to do so.
I was desperately broke a few years ago when I was studying, and had to decide between a new Campag BB for $80 and a slightly use Shimano one for $10. So, I got the Shimano BB and rammed the Chorus cranks on as hard as I could.
I far as I know, the Shimano axle is a tiny bit larger, so the cranks don't go on quite as far. One implication of this is, if the Veloce cranks have the auto crank puller system instead of just a bolt, you must re-tighten the cranks for first 5 to 10 rides. So, as you can see, this is less than desirable.
I have this set-up on two of my bikes, and the only problem is (as I said) that you must check the tightness of the cranks for the first half a dozen or so rides, then semi-regularly after this. It's also a bit trickier to mach the correct length axle. I use 113mm Shimano BB on my mid 90s Chorus cranks.
Mart said:
yes and no. shimano bb axles have a steeper angle. that' is why you can't get the campa cranks in properly. only after re-tightening, when the crankholes get larger, you can tighten them properly maybe you experience shifting problems in the front, because the chainline will be 1-2mm out. your cranks gonna be ****ed, you can't use them on campa bb's anymore.
boudreaux said:BS!...The taper is the same 2*. The difference is that the campy starts and ends slighty smaller in cross section. AFWIW, a few mm difference in chainline won't hose shifting.What do you think limit screws are for?
as for the taper you're right, my measurement was wrong. i honestly never thought about this before because if you fix your bike yourself, you can do such things. if you have to sell it, give a warranty on your work and the parts, it is unacceptable to mix these things.
but chainline has not much to do with limit screws, especially with compact triple. and a few mm do make a difference: record bb, chainline 43.5mm for double, record bb, chainline 46.5mm for triple. why do you think they give these numbers if a few mm don't matter? why the .5mm? to confuse people? it is also one of the reasons why the bb housing has to be faced properly. it is different from frame to frame, 9s and 10s has an influence on this as well as cheap wheels which are not perfectly centred. then the mm start to add up, chain and sprockets wear down faster, greater resistance if the chain runs in an odd angle.
boudreaux said:BS!...
Jeeez, where you bin?
Without you here, the only ones giving mechanical tips has been me and Jasong!! It's like having Neelix flying the Enterprise.
just more BS. I know a few mm doesn't matter cuz I've done these things.In the old days,chainline could be fudged alot easier with different spindle lengths to bias a chainline toward the bigger or smaller cogs depending on which ones got the most use. The #s reflect the ideal chainline, not what works or doesn't. It also isn't dependent on the BB being faced,nor is it different from 9 or 10 or even 8 speed, cuz all the hubs and overall widths of the casettes are essentially the same. Nor is it different from frame to frame.fixit said:
boudreaux said:
after assembling a few hundred bikes i know it does matter. i never said it's not working. but you say it yourself, it's the IDEAL chainline, why do something that is not ideal or perfect, especially with high-end frames and parts? or would you buy a $50'000 car which is assembled like a $10'000 one? and for facing, some framemakers (not with monocoque carbon frames) make their bb a few mm wider than 68 or 70mm, you have to take off these mm. with some frames from a well known swiss framemaker for example, the chain constantly derails if chainline is off only 2mm. i know that most shops don't care about this, because perfect frame preparation takes at least twice as long. also, alot of bike companies expect the shop to disassemble their complete bikes to properly prepare the frame. that's why i would never buy a high-end complete bike from a shop or maker you don't have total confidence in.
boudreaux said:
because the inserted metal things (don't know the word in english) are usually the right size. and if you don't have to weld the tubes together, it will not get out of shape and stay straight during production process. or why do you think you have to face and ream metal frames?
