I started riding 3 months ago on a mountain bike with continental slicks on it. I time myself on some local routs and I am improving but some people recon I would be better on a road bike. Would I be any faster?
Will I be any faster?
- Thread starter mattjaydee
- Start date
You would improve speed, but possibly not by much. 1, 2, maybe 3mph. And although you would see a slight improvement, you (i.e. your legs, heart, and lungs) would be exactly the same. Any increase in speed will be a result of the lower rolling resistance via tire selection, and aerodynamics from the newly available lower body position in the drops of the road bike handlebars. Lowering the head even an inch or two, which can also be arranged from repositioning on your MTB, can result in a couple mph gain. Curious, what continental tires do you now have an how wide are they?
+1, I am with the 'foz.
You can be faster on the road bike if you are willing/able to ride in a more aggressive position. Another possibility is that your gearing on the MTB is insufficient - do you find yourself in the highest gear wanting for more a lot?
You can be faster on the road bike if you are willing/able to ride in a more aggressive position. Another possibility is that your gearing on the MTB is insufficient - do you find yourself in the highest gear wanting for more a lot?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattjaydee .
I started riding 3 months ago on a mountain bike with continental slicks on it. I time myself on some local routs and I am improving but some people recon I would be better on a road bike.
Would I be any faster?
The aerodynamic advantage of Drop Bars can be very real ...
DROP handlebars can be put on any MTB ... any Hardtail is a suitable candidate, IMO ...
Some may not think that it is an economical conversion, but it is less expensive than a new bike ... you simply need the following ...
If you are a wise shopper & can DIY, then you the modification can be done for under $200.
BTW. If you happen to have a FULL SUSPENSION MTB, then you should lock-out your rear shock.
Originally Posted by mattjaydee .
I started riding 3 months ago on a mountain bike with continental slicks on it. I time myself on some local routs and I am improving but some people recon I would be better on a road bike.
Would I be any faster?
The aerodynamic advantage of Drop Bars can be very real ...
- several years ago, on a really long false flat, the difference in coasting speed between having my hands on the Hoods of the brake levers vs. on the Drops was a couple of MPH while coasting ... between 12+ mph & 14mph ... because it was at 6500 feet altitude, your results may be less ([COLOR= #ff0000]or, NOT!?![/COLOR]) ... because the test was done at ~7000 feet altitude, the results may be less at Sea Level
- but, my Drops are set up for minimal body variation ([COLOR= #808080]i.e., vintage "touring" set up where the Drops to primarily change the in hand position & the change in the upper body position is relatively small -- my head is probably only a couple of inches lower, if that much[/COLOR]) ... with your hands on the Drops AND with your elbows bent more the advantage will be greater
- more aero, more advantage
DROP handlebars can be put on any MTB ... any Hardtail is a suitable candidate, IMO ...
Some may not think that it is an economical conversion, but it is less expensive than a new bike ... you simply need the following ...
- a Road crank OR a 46t-or-48t chainring... 46t 104BCD chainrings are common & not too expensive
- 48t 104BCD chainrings are NOT common & can be expensive
- "Origin" is one of the brands of Road clips-on... if Road clip-ons are used, then you won't need new shifters
- the Campagnolo shifters are compatible with most Shimano drivetrains & can migrate to a "real" Road frame in the future if you feel a need for 700c wheels
- 650B wheels are a little larger than 26" wheels and could be used in most MTB frames, but the tire choice is currently very limited
If you are a wise shopper & can DIY, then you the modification can be done for under $200.
- Heck, you can put 700c wheels & Road tires in a MTB frame ... here is a more serious conversion which also includes a Road fork + Road brake calipers on an old Mongoose Hardtail ...
BTW. If you happen to have a FULL SUSPENSION MTB, then you should lock-out your rear shock.
I hope it's faster but if it isn't then never mind. Just going to get some clipless pedals for it which I was also told I would benefit from. The trek is around 4kg lighter than the MTB. The tyres on the MTB are Continental sport contact 26 1.6 and look miles wider than the TT bike.
Nice bikes ...
FYI. Without putting Drop Bars on your MTB, you could swap out the stem and/or re-stack the spacers above the stem to lower your Flat Bars by (and, this is just an estimate) as much as 5" to achieve a more aero riding position ...
ALSO, as previously suggested, consider having a set of 700c (622-17) rims laced to an appropriate set of disc hubs ... then, you could run some 700x28 tires for the days when your TT bike doesn't seem like the right one too ride.
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