On Jul 29, 2:18 am, Nate Knutson <
[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jul 28, 9:10 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jul 28, 2:57 am, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > > On Jul 23, 7:56 am, Qui si parla Campagnolo <[email protected]>
> > > wrote:
>
> > > > On Jul 22, 8:27 pm, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > > > > My road bike is set up for 7 speed and I'm looking at a set of Velomax
> > > > > wheels. Can I bolt my Shimano 7 speed compact freehub body onto the
> > > > > Velomax wheel? The rear Velomax wheel has a Shimano cassette
> > > > > compatible 10 speed freehub body on it now, but I do not understand
> > > > > how to shim one of these for using a 7 speed cassette... if that's
> > > > > even possible. I'm not sure if the 10 speed freehub body is Shimano
> > > > > made or Easton/Velomax made.
>
> > > > > Owen
>
> > > > Freehub on the Velomax is shimano 7/8/9 or 10s compatible. Cassette
> > > > spacer onto the freehub first, about a 3mm one, your shimano 7s cogset-
> > > > adjust RD, go ride. 'May' have an issue getti ng the 130mm Velomax
> > > > wheel into a 126mm spaced rear triangle tho. Coldset if steel or just
> > > > jam it in there('may' break something, 'may').
>
> > > Tried 3mm... didn't work. The flange on the 11t cog bottomed against
> > > the freehubs outer edge... leaving slack between the cluster stack.
> > > Tried 4.5mm, as per Sheldons website... works perfectly! Thank you,
> > > Sheldon... for a wonderful resource of information!
>
> > > Owen- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > I'm wrong here! The 4.5mm shim is causing the chain to rub against the
> > frame. When stationary there is about 1mm clearance, but it rubs like
> > crazy while pedalling. Reducing the 4.5mm shim by even only 0.5mm
> > causes slack in the cassette. Looks like I'll have to go with the 3mm
> > afterall and have 2mm milled off of the outside edge of the freehub
> > body.
>
> > Owen
>
> Some people report success with just having a spacer between the small
> cog and lockring. The problem with this is you've no longer got the
> teeth on the cog and lockring engaging each other to prevent loosening
> of the lockring. Those teeth do seem to do good things, but OTOH, all
> the SS conversion spacer kits seem to do fine without them. Were you
> to go this route, it would probably be better to use a smooth-faced
> lockring from one of those kits. Or maybe you could use a dummy small
> cog as the spacer, so the lockring can engage the teeth on it. Sounds
> a lot simpler than getting your freehub body milled.
>
> Make sure you pay attention to lockring thread engagement when playing
> with all this.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks again, Nate... for the great info! Unfortunately I can't put
the cog/spacer between the small 11t cog and the lockring, because of
the nature of 11t cogs. Unlike 12 and 13t hyperglide small cogs, the
11t splines stop about 2/3 of the way through the cog. This is
probably because the 11t wall thickness is so thin they had to leave
this metal beneath the teeth to lend strength/integrity to the cog. I
thought about dremeling the splines completely through the 11t cog,
but decided that the engineers at Shimano (and Sram) knew what and why
they did this for... so I wont try fate to see if I can do one better
than them. I did happen to have a new non-small cog 12t cog, so I
replaced the 11t with this, removed the second-cog 12t, added a 26t
cog and spacer to the back side of the cassette, ground the teeth off
a worn out 11t small-cog and used this as a spacer between the new 12t
small-cog and the lockring. I now have 3 -3,5mms of space between the
chain and frame! I can not thank you enough for sharing this info with
me. I'd have never figured it out on my own!
Kindest regards,
Owen