I really wished I found this forum before I took the advice of my LBS employee who suggested I look on Craigslist. I've served in the military for 22 years, deployed several times and I guess all of the wear and tear had caused my back to hurt on the long runs I enjoyed. I wanted to maintain my cardio workouts so I decided to take up road cycling. I read some articles and decided to visit the bike shop. I guess I was not expecting the cost of bikes but needless to say I couldn't afford one. They had no used bikes so the salesman, who I found out later was trying to sell me a 2010 bike as a 2011, was frustrated that he was not going to make a profit and suggested I check Craigslist. I guess he forgot that while I may not purchase a bike from him, I will surely need a place to perform the maintenance and order parts. Despite what may be thought, not all of us military people make a lot of money, especially us Guardsmen. I had to sell some special guitars I was in possession of at a well below retail price because I wanted a bike that badly. I had 450 dollars and found a listing for a $475, 2008 Scott Speedster 40. A decent bike for a beginner from what I had read. I talked the guy down to $400 so I would have $50 for a tune up. I really didn't know all I was looking for when I inspected it. I shared my military past and present with the seller, a college professor. I asked time and time again if the bike had been wrecked or if it had any issues. He assured me it was in great shape and just needed a tune up. I got it home and then noticed scratches I couldn't see (made mistake of driving an hour at night to purchase it) and other issues. A local bike shop owner whom I met (one man shop out of his house) looked it over free of charge and suggested I get my money back. He rattled off a lot of issues which would cost me as much as I paid for the bike. I emailed the seller and got the "you saw it before you paid. It's yours now" response. After a little more research, the bike is actually a 2007 because it is blue and white and the 08's were only black, yellow, and white. I explained this to the seller and he said he bought it in 08 so he assumed it was. I asked how he could do this to a veteran who has served on 4 deployments fighting for his freedom. He said he didn't need to hear my drama story. That's that. I hope my story helps any others who are new. While I can't afford to buy a bike, I still have a building passion for the sport. One day I will begin riding and hopefully share a success story. Thank you for providing me with a place to vent. Ken Collins
Wish I found this site before Craigslist
- Thread starter simplyserving
- Start date
I will definitely post the exact problems with the bike as I am going to meet with the bike repair shop propietor tomorrow. I dropped the bike off with him as I work away from home during the week. I know he mentioned something in regards to framing stress issues and something with the gears. I had since read an article which stated the only true deal breaker is the frame as most of the other parts are replacable but I am not sure I would want to replace parts as opposed to holding out for enough cash to buy a new bike, especially not on this particular frame which is scratched-up fairly badly. The fact that the bike shop repair person did not recommend I invest in fixing the bike spoke volumes to me as if he were truly after making a quick buck, he would not have recommended I take the bike back.
I am sorry I cannot be more specific yet but I will be getting a complete list of the issues tomorrow and post tomorrow night. I would love to go back after this guy but it would not make very much sense to when legal fees would surpass the cost of the bike. I just hate it that I am now out the guitars, the money, and the bike. I guess I just needed a "sounding board" because I was frustrated. It is my own fault in that I;
1. Did not educate myself more thoroughly
2. Went to see the bike at night (not sure I would have known what to look for to be honest)
3. Felt some what of an obligation to purchase it after driving over an hour one way to see it and talking the seller down to 400
Thanks for listening to me and once I get the list and post, I would appreciate some feedback on it.
I am sorry I cannot be more specific yet but I will be getting a complete list of the issues tomorrow and post tomorrow night. I would love to go back after this guy but it would not make very much sense to when legal fees would surpass the cost of the bike. I just hate it that I am now out the guitars, the money, and the bike. I guess I just needed a "sounding board" because I was frustrated. It is my own fault in that I;
1. Did not educate myself more thoroughly
2. Went to see the bike at night (not sure I would have known what to look for to be honest)
3. Felt some what of an obligation to purchase it after driving over an hour one way to see it and talking the seller down to 400
Thanks for listening to me and once I get the list and post, I would appreciate some feedback on it.
I don't want to knock bike shops but they can be pretty expensive for not such difficult or "correct work." A friend of mine had an old Paramount and wanted to get somewhat lower gearing for better hill climbing. He talked to a bike shop and they were going to just change the rear gearing in the back by changing freewheels. This originally would not have been too expensive, but once they got the bike they told him it needed a new wheel for the lower gearing. Presumably they decided to go with a newer style 8 speed cassette instead of a 7 speed freewheel for some stupid reason and didn't explain any other options to him. Maybe that is all they had.
There was nothing wrong with his old wheel and the new one they sold him was the lowest end Mavic model worth less than $100. I guess they adjusted his derailleurs and checked over the bike too. Well they put on an 8 speed cassette and he only had a 7 speed index down tube shifter, so the way they made it "work" was that it had to be pushed past the last index click or he needed to run it in friction mode. When I rode with him on hills it kept popping out of the low gear because of the lack of a click position, so I "repaired" his bike by re-adjusting the rear derailleur so the lowest gear was in a click position but he no longer had a top high gear.
The bottom line is they charged him $700 which is a complete rip-off because they saw someone with money who didn't know what he was doing. Even an overhaul of a bike should be around $100- $200 I could have gotten him a new freewheel for about $25 and had him up and running in a few minutes. $700 was a lot of money to spend to basically get three more teeth on a cog and now he has lost his top gear. He could have bought an entire bike for that amount.
So find out what is wrong with your bike and if you really need all of the services they are trying to sell you. Also keep in mind that scratches are probably just a cosmetic issue and won't affect the performance. Scratches are something that you certainly should have been able to see before buying and I don't think the seller pulled the wool over your eyes in that regard. Maybe those scratches contributed to a lower price. Did it ride OK? If not, why did you buy it?
If you have any reasonable level of mechanical aptitude, you should read up on bike maintenance on-line or get a book, and buy some basic tools. This will save you a lot of money compared with paying for the work. There are Youtube videos that show how to adjust or repair just about anything on a bike.
Here is a very reasonable price list I saw on the net from http://amerypedal.com after doing a quick Google search on bike repair prices. So see what your shop charges in comparison. Of course if the frame is damaged, that could be a big deal.
Basic Tune-up gets any bike ready for spring by adjusting shifting and brake systems and minor trueing of wheels and any bearing adjustment needed as well as cleaning the drive train and the bicycle and components and all at a great price of $39.99
Basic Overhaul:Hub, bottom bracket, and headset bearing cleaning and regreasing plus shifting and brake adjustments as well as wheel trueing and bike
cleaning $79.99
Deluxe Overhaul:Basic overhaul package plus replacement of all cables
and ball bearing. $99.99
Tire/tube replacement
parts extra) $5.00
Wheel straightening $ 10.00
Cable replacement (parts extra) $5.00
Derailler Adjustment $5.00
Brake Adjustment $5.00
Hub Overhaul $15.00
There was nothing wrong with his old wheel and the new one they sold him was the lowest end Mavic model worth less than $100. I guess they adjusted his derailleurs and checked over the bike too. Well they put on an 8 speed cassette and he only had a 7 speed index down tube shifter, so the way they made it "work" was that it had to be pushed past the last index click or he needed to run it in friction mode. When I rode with him on hills it kept popping out of the low gear because of the lack of a click position, so I "repaired" his bike by re-adjusting the rear derailleur so the lowest gear was in a click position but he no longer had a top high gear.
The bottom line is they charged him $700 which is a complete rip-off because they saw someone with money who didn't know what he was doing. Even an overhaul of a bike should be around $100- $200 I could have gotten him a new freewheel for about $25 and had him up and running in a few minutes. $700 was a lot of money to spend to basically get three more teeth on a cog and now he has lost his top gear. He could have bought an entire bike for that amount.
So find out what is wrong with your bike and if you really need all of the services they are trying to sell you. Also keep in mind that scratches are probably just a cosmetic issue and won't affect the performance. Scratches are something that you certainly should have been able to see before buying and I don't think the seller pulled the wool over your eyes in that regard. Maybe those scratches contributed to a lower price. Did it ride OK? If not, why did you buy it?
If you have any reasonable level of mechanical aptitude, you should read up on bike maintenance on-line or get a book, and buy some basic tools. This will save you a lot of money compared with paying for the work. There are Youtube videos that show how to adjust or repair just about anything on a bike.
Here is a very reasonable price list I saw on the net from http://amerypedal.com after doing a quick Google search on bike repair prices. So see what your shop charges in comparison. Of course if the frame is damaged, that could be a big deal.
Basic Tune-up gets any bike ready for spring by adjusting shifting and brake systems and minor trueing of wheels and any bearing adjustment needed as well as cleaning the drive train and the bicycle and components and all at a great price of $39.99
Basic Overhaul:Hub, bottom bracket, and headset bearing cleaning and regreasing plus shifting and brake adjustments as well as wheel trueing and bike
cleaning $79.99
Deluxe Overhaul:Basic overhaul package plus replacement of all cables
and ball bearing. $99.99
Tire/tube replacement
parts extra) $5.00Wheel straightening $ 10.00
Cable replacement (parts extra) $5.00
Derailler Adjustment $5.00
Brake Adjustment $5.00
Hub Overhaul $15.00
At $400 bucks you still have quite a bit of leeway to come out of this with a bike that is still a fair deal if not a bona fide good deal. A quick look on the internet is showing prices from $700-1000 for used models. I'm sorry that money is scarce (ain't it so for most of us), but unless this thing is an absolute disaster you may yet have a bike that has a future with many miles left in it.
I know what AlanG is talking about though, I race for a local bike shop and end up loitering quite a bit. The retail quotes on labor and parts that customers get can be a little offputting. I'm very glad I can do most of the work myself. Coincidentally, I had a bike shop do exactly that - fit an 8 spd on a 7 spd shifter setup on an older mountain bike. I never knew it until I went into a shop asking why I couldn't shift into one of my gears.
I know what AlanG is talking about though, I race for a local bike shop and end up loitering quite a bit. The retail quotes on labor and parts that customers get can be a little offputting. I'm very glad I can do most of the work myself. Coincidentally, I had a bike shop do exactly that - fit an 8 spd on a 7 spd shifter setup on an older mountain bike. I never knew it until I went into a shop asking why I couldn't shift into one of my gears.
Hey, I own a bike shop and I would like to help you out at no cost. Tell me what is broken, If I have one here I will send it to you.
WOW! Thank you for the love. I knew that there was something special about this sport. I have met some great people who have a genuine passion for cycling and are so excited about it that they willingly share their knowledge. My next question regarding this whole ordeal is whether or not I should seek a "second opinion". As I went to the shop to hear exactly what needed to be replaced / corrected I was a bit overwhelmed. I had spent the week trying to educate myself so that I was prepared but I guess I concentrated on the wrong areas. I was so taken back by the scratches I had found later, that I was assuming it would be something structural with the frame. As many if you had commented, the frame is fine despite the scratches. I cannot remember the exact terminology or exactly everything mentioned, but the major parts needing to be replaced (at least cost wise) were the Truvitav (i think he said) double crankset, the chain, and the brake pads. The wheels had some minor denying but he said they would be good for a while. I did not realize it, but there were 2 different tires on the bike. I take it the front tire must have worn out because that was the newer of the two. He said as part of the tune-up, he would swap the two tires and put the better of the two in the back. He too felt it was a nice bike, but it needed some work to be good. My questions are this. One, how do you know when you need a new chain? I could see where it was hitting against the front derailler and it appeared to be a bit rusty (or extremely dirty). Two, in regards to the crankset, what do I look for there? It too appeared rusty or dirty (the sprocket parts) and some of the teeth appeared slightly bent or worn. Could this and not the chain be causing the rub? Lastly, brakepads. How do I know which ones to order? Are they specific or sized? My last question is should I take the bike for a "second opinion" or are these relatively normal components to go on a bike? I have the bike and took some pictures if that helps. If you can tell by looking at a photo (or can give an opinion) email me at [email protected] and I will send you the photos. One last one, will the tires be an issue? Thanks again for any advice. I am all ears.
I am certainly not an expert bike mechanic but I consider myself to be competent. I'm just sitting here tonight so I'll try to thoroughly answer your questions and others can add on or correct me if they want.
There is a tool that a bike shop uses to measure the length between several links of a chain. A chain gets a bit longer as the rollers wear and it needs to be replaced if it is too long. Otherwise the worn chain will accelerate wear on your chainrings and cassette (gears on the rear wheel.) It could be the chain is not so worn but is rusty and not working smoothly, (A sticky link or worse.) Replacing it is a good idea but sometimes these things can be oiled and worked out to be smooth enough if you are really cheap. You can buy a 10 speed chain on-line for about $30 but I don't know what the shop wants to charge for a specific chain.
If the chain rubs against the front derailleur when the shifter is set for either the smaller or larger chainring, this is solved with a very quick and easy adjustment of the cable tension or the derailleur itself. Front derailleurs almost never wear out. If this was rubbing when you checked out the bike, you should have brought it up with the owner. (But you probably didn't notice or understand there was a problem.) In any case this should be no big deal.
Truvative is just the brand name of the crank. The crank comprises the two chain rings and the arms that hold them and connect to the pedals. I'm not sure what could be wrong with this. Is it bent somehow? A couple of worn or slightly damaged teeth on the chain ring may be no big deal but could possibly affect shifting if severe. If the chain rings are worn, the chain won't fit evenly over it or work as smoothly as it should and it will cause more wear too.
Chainrings can be replaced without the need for a new crank. They are usually held in place by 5 torx bolts and are very easy to replace without disassembling the crank. The part that goes through the bottom of the frame that each crank arm connects to is called the bottom bracket and it contains ball bearings that can wear out. If you take the chain off of the crank and then spin the crank it should be smooth, quiet, and free of play.
The shop should be able to show and explain to you why the chainrings or the entire crank needs to be replaced.
Brake pads are just the rubber pieces that attach to the brake calipers and press against the rim to slow down the bike. It is normal for them to wear from use but I can't say at exactly what point they need replacement. They are attached by a single bolt and are also very easy to change and are not very expensive. There are some brake shoes where the pads just slide into them without needing to be removed from the calipers. There are various brands and types and most road bike brakes use similar pads. They need to be adjusted so that they close evenly on the rim and don't touch the tire. The front of pads should be angled in toward the rim very slightly to prevent squeal. This is called "toe in."
Since you are new at this I really suggest you go to Sheldon Brown's site and read this beginner section and eventually read some of the other sections if you want to learn more.
http://sheldonbrown.com/beginners/index.html
There is a tool that a bike shop uses to measure the length between several links of a chain. A chain gets a bit longer as the rollers wear and it needs to be replaced if it is too long. Otherwise the worn chain will accelerate wear on your chainrings and cassette (gears on the rear wheel.) It could be the chain is not so worn but is rusty and not working smoothly, (A sticky link or worse.) Replacing it is a good idea but sometimes these things can be oiled and worked out to be smooth enough if you are really cheap. You can buy a 10 speed chain on-line for about $30 but I don't know what the shop wants to charge for a specific chain.
If the chain rubs against the front derailleur when the shifter is set for either the smaller or larger chainring, this is solved with a very quick and easy adjustment of the cable tension or the derailleur itself. Front derailleurs almost never wear out. If this was rubbing when you checked out the bike, you should have brought it up with the owner. (But you probably didn't notice or understand there was a problem.) In any case this should be no big deal.
Truvative is just the brand name of the crank. The crank comprises the two chain rings and the arms that hold them and connect to the pedals. I'm not sure what could be wrong with this. Is it bent somehow? A couple of worn or slightly damaged teeth on the chain ring may be no big deal but could possibly affect shifting if severe. If the chain rings are worn, the chain won't fit evenly over it or work as smoothly as it should and it will cause more wear too.
Chainrings can be replaced without the need for a new crank. They are usually held in place by 5 torx bolts and are very easy to replace without disassembling the crank. The part that goes through the bottom of the frame that each crank arm connects to is called the bottom bracket and it contains ball bearings that can wear out. If you take the chain off of the crank and then spin the crank it should be smooth, quiet, and free of play.
The shop should be able to show and explain to you why the chainrings or the entire crank needs to be replaced.
Brake pads are just the rubber pieces that attach to the brake calipers and press against the rim to slow down the bike. It is normal for them to wear from use but I can't say at exactly what point they need replacement. They are attached by a single bolt and are also very easy to change and are not very expensive. There are some brake shoes where the pads just slide into them without needing to be removed from the calipers. There are various brands and types and most road bike brakes use similar pads. They need to be adjusted so that they close evenly on the rim and don't touch the tire. The front of pads should be angled in toward the rim very slightly to prevent squeal. This is called "toe in."
Since you are new at this I really suggest you go to Sheldon Brown's site and read this beginner section and eventually read some of the other sections if you want to learn more.
http://sheldonbrown.com/beginners/index.html
The easiest and most reliable way to measure chain wear is to use a ruler to measure the length of 12 links, and if that length is greater than 12 1/8", the chain is shot. Also note that a "link" is actually two pieces: a piece whose side plate is the most external and is the plate against which the link pin is pressed; a piece that follows the previously link and whose side plate sits just inside the previous link's side plate. Also, it's best to a machinist's rule, but you can get buy on a regular ruler.
What is wrong with the crank? It would be a surprise if the crank arms themselves were bad. It's not of the question, but there other things used with the crank that go bad first (excepting in the case of an accident, I guess)
- Chainrings: these will wear more quickly if the chain has worn too much. Also, some of the big chainring's teeth can look different. Special tooth shapes are used on some chainrings to speed pick-up of the chain when shifting to the large chainring. Of course, chainring teeth can get bent.
- Bottom bracket: this is the bearing assembly, and depending on the type of crank set, the bottom bracket axle (upon which the cranks rotate). Some crank--newer cranks--have an integral axle, so in that case, the bottom bracket assembly is just made up of bearings and bearing cups. No matter the case, bottom bracket bearings do need to be replaced from time to time, as is the case with all bearings.
Tires: there's no functional reason that the front tire has to match the back tire. I have at times had on the rear a different brand and/or color tire than on the front. There are a very small number of tires which are different and are "supposed" to be paired together. The only ones I can think of are the Continental Attack & Force tires. The Attack is supposed to be used on the front in combination with the Force on the back, but the reality is that you can use 'em however you like, including separately.
Brake pads: it's a good idea when buying a used bike to replace the brake pads anyway. Over time, brake pads can grow hard, especially if they're not used for an extended period of time. Brake pads also wear quickly, a bit less fast than tires (unless you do a lot of fast descents of mountains, through tight corners). There are generally two types of replaceable brake pads for road bikes with cantilever brakes: Shimano compatible and Campagnolo compatible. A bike shop can tell you which you need, or you can just tell us what brand brake calipers you have so that we can let you know what type you need. Generally, when the grooves are gone on the brake pads, it's time to replace them. Some brake pads have wear indicators on the sides.
Derailleurs: if the chain is rubbing the front derailleur cage, almost every time that can be fixed just by proper adjustment of that derailleur.
The wheels: it's not uncommon for wheels to get dents from rocks on the road. It's difficult to say much more without seeing your wheels.
The frame: you saw, and you likely saw some of the scratches. That's not too much of a concern. It's mostly an aesthetic issue. A dented (depending on the location and size of any dents) or cracked frame would be a concern.
Things that wear and have to be replaced are the following:
- Chain
- Tires
- Inner tubes
- Handlebar tape
- Cables and cable housing
- Brake pads
- Bearings (the least frequent of all of these)
Of course eventually everything breaks down, but the six things I listed are the ones that go most quickly. How quickly they go depends on how well you care for your bike and clean it, how you ride and how heavy you are, the area in which you ride (road conditions, road detritus that can puncture tires and inner tubes), and the weather where you ride (rain, heat, ...). Obviously, the person riding their bike 10,000 miles per year is going to have things wear out more quickly than someone who rides their bike 500 miles per year.
You can post your pictures on this forum by using the "insert image" icon in the "reply" toolbar.
i suspect that the shop advised him to change the crankset out of some problem with the crank itself or the bottom bracket. I have personally never needed new chainrigs because of them being worn out by use. Do install a new a chain, give a tune up to your shifting and see how that works, if you get some jumping of the chain in the back, then you need to change the rear sprockets or cassette too, (remember to match the chain to the brand and the number of rear sprockets, i.e. 7, or 8, or 9 or 10)
you can still throw in another 100 or 200 and still be into the good deal zone, unfortunately cycling is an expensive sport, at least in the begginning. Having a good bike simplify riding a lot and you will be only paying for new tires and small maintenance costs most of the time.
It really doesn't matter all that much the year when the bike was built (2007 or 2008). Cycling markets are not like cars, sure a car looses another 10% of market value every year when they are sold second hand, a bike doesnt. It is good for you to know the year just as an estimate of all the miles ridden on it, but that is highly subjective on a bike, it really depends on the former owner.
Excellent feedback which is greatly appreciated. I took the advice of most of you and started looking for a chain. I saw where the spec was for a particular Shimano 9 speed chain and found something called a "take off" on Ebay. I am gathering its new and a swap out of sorts. Starting bid only a dollar with 6 for shipping. He did mention that the bike had not been maintained properly. He said it looks like the previous owner just kept riding through issues as opposed to addressing them. He pointed out the teeth of the two rings showing some inward bendig and rusting. He also said he would advise a new wrap. I am going to check out the recommended beginners article. Thanks all for your help. It may be a little while but I am destined to be on that bike sometime soon. Still have to find what brake pads to look for. Any suggestions on where I can find this? Lastly, I think I need to look at replacing that one tire as its wearing thin and has some signs if what I think looks like dry rotting. How does the sizing work? Mine has 700 x 23c on it. Do I have to get same size if if I find a cheaper set, can I alter the sizing? I believe if I order my own parts, I can save some money. I have been posting mostly from my phone and I cannot figure out how to include photos. I am going to get online later and see about posting the photos because there are a couple if issues I would like an opinion on but its easier to explain through photos. Thanks again. I feel silly not knowing some if these basic things I should know. I will get there though and while yes, I realized that will be cost in cycling, I was hoping to start off with a ready to ride bike following a tune-up. I guess the only true way to do that would have been to buy a new bike. I just know that when I sold my guitars as being in great, well maintained condition, they were ready to be played.
A take-off sounds like a situation where someone swapped the 9-speed Shimano chain on their new bike with a different brand chain that they preferred. The last time that I purchased a 9-speed chain it was a Sram and it cost $24.00 so a $7.00 total is a good price.
Chain rings can and do wear, but it normally takes many miles of riding before it is necessary. That is unless you keep using them with a badly worn chain or just plain ignore regular maintenance.
The following link contains a lot of information concerning tire sizes. The tire width that you can use is dictated by the inside width of the cross section of the rim as well as the clearance of the chainstays and seatstays on your frame. There is a chart in the link that gives you the sizes that are compatible with the most common rim widths. As far as the diameter of the tire is concerned, you are going to have to stay with a 700 size.
http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
The website sheldonbrown.com is a great resource for answers to bicycle related technical questions. Sheldon Brown was one of the foremost bicycle authorities prior to his passing several years ago and he left us all of his accumulated knowledge on his website which is now maintained by John Allen and Harris Cyclery.
If you are going to go the mail order route for bike parts, the two biggest internet stores are Performance http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/TopCategories_10052_10551_-1
and Bike Nashbar http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/TopCategories_10053_10052_-1
Good luck and safe cycling.
Chain rings can and do wear, but it normally takes many miles of riding before it is necessary. That is unless you keep using them with a badly worn chain or just plain ignore regular maintenance.
The following link contains a lot of information concerning tire sizes. The tire width that you can use is dictated by the inside width of the cross section of the rim as well as the clearance of the chainstays and seatstays on your frame. There is a chart in the link that gives you the sizes that are compatible with the most common rim widths. As far as the diameter of the tire is concerned, you are going to have to stay with a 700 size.
http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
The website sheldonbrown.com is a great resource for answers to bicycle related technical questions. Sheldon Brown was one of the foremost bicycle authorities prior to his passing several years ago and he left us all of his accumulated knowledge on his website which is now maintained by John Allen and Harris Cyclery.
If you are going to go the mail order route for bike parts, the two biggest internet stores are Performance http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/TopCategories_10052_10551_-1
and Bike Nashbar http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/TopCategories_10053_10052_-1
Good luck and safe cycling.
Replacing a tire is very easy and is a skill you'll need so that you can fix a flat while riding. You'll need a set of plastic tire levers (usually 3) and a pump. You probably want to get a new tube and a back up tube also.
Just get another 700x23 tire since you only want to buy one tire and they should match in size. Although 23mm width tires actually vary in width somewhat from brand to brand and model to model. It would be a good idea to get a tire that is fairly similar in tread or slick depending on your other tire. The cheapest new tire at Performance Bike is on sale for $8.00
I would not buy a take off chain unless you know that it is as long or longer than your old chain - count the links. Unless it is the exact length of your existing chain, you'll need to shorten it to be the same size. For this you need a chain tool that can drive out the pin and also lets you re-install the pin. Don't drive it out so far that the pin falls from the chain. There are guides and videos for this on line.
Park tool has guides and videos that show how to do almost every kind of bike repair. You should study and understand the appropriate guide before doing any work on your bike. In no time you'll know what you are doing and will save a lot of money and always be able to keep your bike in tip top shape.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
You won't save too much money buying brake pads on-line and it might just be simpler for a bike shop to sell you the correct ones even if you plan to install them yourselves. It is common for people to do this so they won't mind. That is the same for any parts or tools from most shops.
I don't know if you can bend the teeth back on the chain ring to straighten them but it might be worth a try if it is no good anyway.
At minimum, right now you need a new tire, two tubes, tire levers, a pump, a chain and a chain tool, some brake pads. You might need new a new chain ring and can buy a cheap set of torx wrenches to do that job. Or a multi tool that has the needed torx wrench size in in it. (These can be pretty tight so a small tool may not work very easily.) If you own any kind of socket wrench set you could just buy a torx bit that fits in it. Truvative is part of SRAM now and you could shop around for a deal on one the same size that will be compatible. Handlebar tape is like $10 and is very easy to wrap yourself. All and all, if you buy the parts and a few tools, this isn't too bad.
As an aside, I know that some people question a chain like Performance, but I went into one a few years ago to buy tools for my old bike. The mechanic showed me exactly what I needed to disassenble the crank and bottom bracket, wheel bearings, etc. But they did not stock one wrench that I needed for the bottom bracket of this older bike. So he gave me one of his own and wouldn't accept any money for it. I did buy the other tools along with clothing, etc but I try to be loyal to the shop after that.
Just get another 700x23 tire since you only want to buy one tire and they should match in size. Although 23mm width tires actually vary in width somewhat from brand to brand and model to model. It would be a good idea to get a tire that is fairly similar in tread or slick depending on your other tire. The cheapest new tire at Performance Bike is on sale for $8.00
I would not buy a take off chain unless you know that it is as long or longer than your old chain - count the links. Unless it is the exact length of your existing chain, you'll need to shorten it to be the same size. For this you need a chain tool that can drive out the pin and also lets you re-install the pin. Don't drive it out so far that the pin falls from the chain. There are guides and videos for this on line.
Park tool has guides and videos that show how to do almost every kind of bike repair. You should study and understand the appropriate guide before doing any work on your bike. In no time you'll know what you are doing and will save a lot of money and always be able to keep your bike in tip top shape.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
You won't save too much money buying brake pads on-line and it might just be simpler for a bike shop to sell you the correct ones even if you plan to install them yourselves. It is common for people to do this so they won't mind. That is the same for any parts or tools from most shops.
I don't know if you can bend the teeth back on the chain ring to straighten them but it might be worth a try if it is no good anyway.
At minimum, right now you need a new tire, two tubes, tire levers, a pump, a chain and a chain tool, some brake pads. You might need new a new chain ring and can buy a cheap set of torx wrenches to do that job. Or a multi tool that has the needed torx wrench size in in it. (These can be pretty tight so a small tool may not work very easily.) If you own any kind of socket wrench set you could just buy a torx bit that fits in it. Truvative is part of SRAM now and you could shop around for a deal on one the same size that will be compatible. Handlebar tape is like $10 and is very easy to wrap yourself. All and all, if you buy the parts and a few tools, this isn't too bad.
As an aside, I know that some people question a chain like Performance, but I went into one a few years ago to buy tools for my old bike. The mechanic showed me exactly what I needed to disassenble the crank and bottom bracket, wheel bearings, etc. But they did not stock one wrench that I needed for the bottom bracket of this older bike. So he gave me one of his own and wouldn't accept any money for it. I did buy the other tools along with clothing, etc but I try to be loyal to the shop after that.
OK. Here is the latest on my journey. I spoke with the man from the bike shop and asked him to give me a listing of what I need. He asked me if I wanted to get the bike to where it is able to be ridden or get the bike right. I said it all depends on the cost as I really do not have the money to pump into the bike at this moment (I know, I know, I should have realized that there was going to be some costs involved aside from a tune-up with a used bike but that is why I thought I did a good job of seeking out a bike in ready-to-ride condition.....or I thought I did. Here is the lowdown of what he said.
I need a new chain. The one I am bidding on on Ebay is the same model number that came with the bike originially (Shimano CN-HG53 9 speed). Still has a day and I put my max bid at 5.15. That with the shipping would be 10 bucks. I hope I get it.
The next thing he said is the brake pads. He said the front pads are not as bad as the rear and he could take the fronts and move them to the rear and then I would just need 1 set.
This one I either did not catch the first time or he just tonight told me this. Help me through this as I know I am going to butcher it. It deals with the axel and cones. There is some pitting and he recommends the replacement of the whole axel ensemble. Anyone know what this is about and what it roughly should cost me? He said this was caused by the bike being improperly put together initially.
He said he could work with the chain ring and get that functional. I guess it may be something I look into replacing down the road.
He believes the new chain and derailler adjustment should correct the chain rubbing against the front derailler.
He said the bike was awfully dirty and it was evident that NO maintenance had been peformed on this bike for quite some time.
He said he will true the wheels, tighten all the spokes (several were extremely loose) and this should correct wheel issues.
He recommended replacing the rear tire. Is it best to just go ahead and replace both tires?
He will lube and grease and do all of the normal things which come in a tune-up which includes cables. He is charging $45 for the tune-up which I do not think is that bad.
He said he would get back with me on the costs of the parts (axel ensemble, brake pads, etc.)
My Father-in-law is quite skilled with welding. He is going to construct me a hitch bike rack (which is awesome) as a Christmas gift.
Hopefully I get the chain for 10 bucks or less. He said he would swap out the chain once I got it. He recommended keeping the other one as a back-up. He said it is bad but usuable (something about 3 plus valleys when the chain is pulled taut).
Any recommendation on what I should be looking for in regards to a wrap/tape? I see some for around 10 bucks (cork I believe) or higher pricing for other materials on Ebay.
I found a wedge bag (Bell) in the clearance rack at Walmart for 5 bike and bought that. The guy who sold me the bike did give me two new Bontrager tubes in their boxes so I have that. I see the plastic levers at Walmart or their is a bike mult-tool device which has 3 levers. I watched a few Youtube videos on changing tires. I am also going to get a water bottle cage from Ebay for cheap and waterbottle (somewhere). Walmart (if you cant tell, the town I live in does not have a bike shop. I drive about 30 minutes or so to the guys house who has his shop in his garage) has frame mouintable minipumps for around 10 dollars.
While going through all of this, I realized I have forgotten an important purchase to get up and going.....a darn helmet. Anyone have one for sale for cheap or a recommendation on what to get and where?
So.... I think that is the latest. Need a chain, Axel ensemble, brake pads, and some basic gear. I am destined to get this bike on the road, even if I have to sell-off a child or two.
Still working on posting some pictures of the bike and the areas in question. I have satellite internet at home and it is super slow.
I need a new chain. The one I am bidding on on Ebay is the same model number that came with the bike originially (Shimano CN-HG53 9 speed). Still has a day and I put my max bid at 5.15. That with the shipping would be 10 bucks. I hope I get it.
The next thing he said is the brake pads. He said the front pads are not as bad as the rear and he could take the fronts and move them to the rear and then I would just need 1 set.
This one I either did not catch the first time or he just tonight told me this. Help me through this as I know I am going to butcher it. It deals with the axel and cones. There is some pitting and he recommends the replacement of the whole axel ensemble. Anyone know what this is about and what it roughly should cost me? He said this was caused by the bike being improperly put together initially.
He said he could work with the chain ring and get that functional. I guess it may be something I look into replacing down the road.
He believes the new chain and derailler adjustment should correct the chain rubbing against the front derailler.
He said the bike was awfully dirty and it was evident that NO maintenance had been peformed on this bike for quite some time.
He said he will true the wheels, tighten all the spokes (several were extremely loose) and this should correct wheel issues.
He recommended replacing the rear tire. Is it best to just go ahead and replace both tires?
He will lube and grease and do all of the normal things which come in a tune-up which includes cables. He is charging $45 for the tune-up which I do not think is that bad.
He said he would get back with me on the costs of the parts (axel ensemble, brake pads, etc.)
My Father-in-law is quite skilled with welding. He is going to construct me a hitch bike rack (which is awesome) as a Christmas gift.
Hopefully I get the chain for 10 bucks or less. He said he would swap out the chain once I got it. He recommended keeping the other one as a back-up. He said it is bad but usuable (something about 3 plus valleys when the chain is pulled taut).
Any recommendation on what I should be looking for in regards to a wrap/tape? I see some for around 10 bucks (cork I believe) or higher pricing for other materials on Ebay.
I found a wedge bag (Bell) in the clearance rack at Walmart for 5 bike and bought that. The guy who sold me the bike did give me two new Bontrager tubes in their boxes so I have that. I see the plastic levers at Walmart or their is a bike mult-tool device which has 3 levers. I watched a few Youtube videos on changing tires. I am also going to get a water bottle cage from Ebay for cheap and waterbottle (somewhere). Walmart (if you cant tell, the town I live in does not have a bike shop. I drive about 30 minutes or so to the guys house who has his shop in his garage) has frame mouintable minipumps for around 10 dollars.
While going through all of this, I realized I have forgotten an important purchase to get up and going.....a darn helmet. Anyone have one for sale for cheap or a recommendation on what to get and where?
So.... I think that is the latest. Need a chain, Axel ensemble, brake pads, and some basic gear. I am destined to get this bike on the road, even if I have to sell-off a child or two.
Still working on posting some pictures of the bike and the areas in question. I have satellite internet at home and it is super slow.
That doesn't sound too bad. My guess of what is wrong with your axles is actually pitting on the cones that press against the bearings. This could keep the wheel from spinning smoothly and I guess it could also cause the bearings to drag and they might pit your hubs if not addressed. If I am correct and it is just the cones on the axles that are pitted and not the actual hubs in the wheel itself, it is not too bad as the cones and new bearings are easy to replace.
Here is a photo of a pitted cone.
Here is info on hubs and bearings:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment
Here is a photo of a pitted cone.
Here is info on hubs and bearings:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment
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