Wish I found this site before Craigslist



Where in Virginia are you?

Strap down your pants leg so that it can't get caught in your chain. Double tie your shoe laces too. I went riding a couple of months ago with a beginner friend of mine and loaned him a Goretex jacket which he shredded when he got his laces caught up in the chain and fell. He was going slowly and wasn't hurt.

Avoid shorts like these,



Or these

 
Most definitely, especially not displaying any type of shellfish near the South Pole region. Not a good idea. I am in South Central. About an hour North of Raleigh, NC and 2 hours South of Richmond. I have read that cycling shorts sizes vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, especially when it comes to European brands, but is there a general sizing guideline if you are unable to try on a pair? I am a 32 waist, about 175 pounds and 5'7". I usually wear a medium in athletic shorts or workout pants. Safe bet to assume a medium? Saw some really awesome Army cycling shorts. Are the bibs usually online with the short sizes?
 
I just drove from DC down to Raleigh in October. I am about the same size as you and wear Large shorts. Most shorts and tights are pretty tight. I have a pair of REI's Novara winter tights that are Extra Large and it fits me skin tight and is work just to pull over my legs which are not super muscle bound or anything. So go figure as I too wear Medium most of the time in other clothing. I suspect bibs and shorts are sized the same. I have two pairs of bibs in Large also. I really can't say I prefer bibs. Shorts are more convenient when you need to go to the bathroom. Medium jerseys are good for me. (40 inch chest)
 
Waist 32, 170lbs, 5'9", a little thick in the thigh and prominant glutes ...typical spinters build.

I'm a Medium in most "American" clothing. Bib sizes: M in the Performance, L in Champion Systems, XL in Castelli. Go figure. You really need to try the stuff on. Love the bibs, except when ya gotta do a #2 right before a race in a public porta potty /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif
 
Originally Posted by vspa .

i will add at this point:

simplySTARTriding !

I agree with this since I will ride almost any kind of bike in any clothing. Last winter it snowed about 4 inches so I took my girlfriends "tiny" mountain bike out because it had some aggressive treads. Good grip but the only problem was that the bike was so small for me I couldn't come close to straightening my legs so I was riding bow legged. No problem. I still had fun that day and it exercised some muscles that were new to me. I just had on regular boots and jeans.

People ride very basic bikes all over the world dressed in their day to day clothing. We get a bit carried away when we look at it as a sport or for fitness and focus on every minute detail.

Maybe next summer I'll work out by being the water supplier for a Berber village.

 
Thanks for the info. Excited about my ride tomorrow morning. I am sure I will be posting a ton of follow-up questions and summary of my experiences.
 
I think the "cycling gods" are against me. It has been raining all night and even though the military had me get a flu shot, I feel like I may have caught the bug. I am still going by the shop in the morning to check on the bike and talk with Tony. The man is just a great guy to talk with. I am hoping that the weather will at least allow me to get in a check ride (at least that's what I am calling it) to see if I notice any irregularities. Hopefully the weather will be nice and I will not feel like I just got whacked with a snot mallet. There's always Sunday I guess. Shared some emails with a guy who owns Hill Killer Apparel. He creates his own jerseys and offered me a great discount when I am ready for that. I am truly amazed by the feeling if family in the cycling community. Its reassuring that there are people who remember what it was like for themselves when they first started out. I already feel a desire to give back in some fashion. Perhaps once I become mire proficient in cycling, I will organize some rides in my local area for a charitable cause like the Wounded Warrior program or something to that nature. I will keep you posted on how the weather turns out. Still hoping to get a ride in.
 
Originally Posted by danfoz .

. Love the bibs, except when ya gotta do a #2 right before a race in a public porta potty /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif

A full zip jersey helps lots with those woes.
 
Well, a combination of bad weather, feeling under the weather, Santa Claus being in town for Breakfast With Santa (have an 8 year old) and the bike shop not quite having the bike ready due to the owner being sick this week has unfortunately postponed my first ride. A little bummed out to be honest but not much I can do about it. I guess the bright side is that the casette and tires Goodbyecycle has graciously sent to me should arrive sometime next week and I can have them installed before my first ride which is now looking like it will be either next Friday (off from work) or Christmas weekend (weather permitting of course). So.......here is the latest installment of questions while I wait. In regards to saddles, what do I need to take into consideration here? Are there different sizes depending on the size if the post or are they generally universal? Are there features I should look for (gel or certain materials)? Do I need any type of lighting in case a ride ends during a period if darkness or should I assure that I do not cross over to darkness? Are there specific laws of the road I need to be cognizant of, such as riding with flow of traffic (which I believe is correct) if not in a bike path? Any pre-ride things which I should consider in regards to carb loading or avoiding certain foods or drinks?
 
I hope you don't mind me saying this, but don't get too far ahead of yourself or worry about this stuff too much. Keep it as basic as possible and see if you need more later. You really need to ride your bike a lot for at least several months just to get used to sitting on any saddle for several hours at a time. They all feel weird (uncomfortable) when starting out but unless there is something terribly wrong with how yours fits you, stick with it.

Right now you probably don't want to spend the money on any of the powerful lights that are capable of illuminating a dark trail or road at night. Just ride when it is light out and at most get a cheap set of front and rear blinking lights when you start riding in the dark. I commute so I have lights that let drivers see me and since the commute has 4 miles on a dark trail, I have a bright headlight.

I can't help you on food as I just eat regular food and carry some snacks on longer rides - 4hrs to a full day that in the summers I do a couple of times a month. I often do a 25-30 mile Saturday morning ride with my friends and just eat a bowl of cereal and a cup of coffee. Others can give you food info for racing and training and there are lots of threads here on this and other subjects. Since I commute, riding is just a regular part of my life and I don't think about special food and some of these other things too much.

Ride with the flow of traffic. I would also advise you to try to avoid traffic as much as possible until you feel really comfortable controlling your bike. Of course special trails and bike lanes are nice. I have a mirror.

My commute takes me on what was formerly, "The Stupidest Bike Lane in America." It has been improved by the addition of a yellow divider line in the street and now longer claims the title.

http://dcist.com/2008/05/02/americas_dumbes.php

 
If you find that you need a new saddle, they are pretty much universal. If the saddle that is on the bike works for you, don't worry about changing it. The first several times that you ride, the saddle is going to be uncomfortable and you will have some slight posterior pain after getting off the bike, even if this is the perfect saddle for you. It takes three or four rides to break your backside in. If the saddle is not a good saddle for you, there are several ways that you will find out. You may feel numbness in which case you do not want to ride with that saddle anymore, at least not if you want to give your 8 year old any siblings and keep your wife or gf happy. You may feel intense butt pain during the ride, or you may still feel pain after riding your bike for a month or more. If any of these things happen, then you will need to change saddles. If this happens, you are going to wish that you lived closer to a real bike shop. Most bike shops have some sort of policy where they will allow you to try a saddle out for a week or two, and if it does not work for you, you can return it and try a different saddle, and so on until you find one that does work for you.

At this time, don't ride in the dark if you don't have to.

Bicycle traffic laws vary from state to state and city to city. You need to use your computer and look up the laws in your state as they apply to bicycles. For the most part, if it is legal for your car, then it is legal for your bike. If it is illegal for your car, then it is illegal for your bike. As AlanG said, a bike path or dedicated bike lanes are the best places to ride until you are more comfortable about controlling your bike. Low traffic country roads are OK too. Just make sure that you are wearing highly visible clothing so that the motorists can see you.

Don't think carb loading right now. It will not work until you are in a training program. You need to increase the amount of glycogen that your body can store before you carb load, and that is done through the kind of higher intensity exercise that you would get when training. If you try to carb load now, your body will store it all as fat. All that you need do at this point is just eat normally. I would eat a little higher carb breakfast than normal, something like pancakes or cereal with fresh fruit. Take some snacks along. The amount would depend upon the ride. I like bananas because they are a good source of carbs and potassium, and the wrapper is biodegradeable. It doesn't hurt anything if you throw it in the bushes. Any kind of fruit is good. You can buy energy bars in most grocery stores now. Sporting good stores usually have things like gels and other energy preparations but they tend to get expensive. You can always fill your water bottle with Gatorade for short rides.

Shortly after your ride, within an hour or two, you want to to get some protien to aid in muscle recovery and some carbs to replenish some of the ones that you used. A cheese burger and fries would be great except for the fat. My choice for a recovery meal is a Subway roast beef sub with all the veggies.

There are no foods that you should avoid that I know of. Just eat like you did when you were running. No huge meals before you get on the bike, no turkey because of the tryptophan which makes most people drowsey. It goes without saying that you should not get drunk or high before riding.

By the way, when I mention rides, I'm not talking about a spin around the block. You don't need to rush out to Subway because you rode down to the end of the driveway and back. Short rides are usually like 15 miles or less and you really don't need to do anything special nutritionally for that.
 
Turkey has no more trytophan than most any meat. This is a Thanksgiving myth offered up by people that have eaten a little to much and sleep on the couch.
 
As usual, awesome advice that I will adhere to. I think a lot of you are correct in that I tend to get ahead of myself. I guess my excitement is winning over my common sense. I just find myself thinking, speaking, and researching things related to cycling. I am sure my wife is tired of hearing me talk about it. I just need to get out there and ride and learn. The one thing that concerns me a bit, and I may be repeating myself, is proper shifting. I know that you should not ride in big front and big back or small and small but how do I ensure that this does not happen? I know there are indicators on the hand grips but when I looked at them, they looked difficult to tell what it was representing. Any shifting advice like what gear I should start in? I have a compact double 9 speed.
 
Originally Posted by simplyserving .

As usual, awesome advice that I will adhere to. I think a lot of you are correct in that I tend to get ahead of myself. I guess my excitement is winning over my common sense. I just find myself thinking, speaking, and researching things related to cycling. I am sure my wife is tired of hearing me talk about it. I just need to get out there and ride and learn.

The one thing that concerns me a bit, and I may be repeating myself, is proper shifting. I know that you should not ride in big front and big back or small and small but how do I ensure that this does not happen? I know there are indicators on the hand grips but when I looked at them, they looked difficult to tell what it was representing. Any shifting advice like what gear I should start in? I have a compact double 9 speed.
Yup. Get out there and ride. You're over-thinking things a bit. On the plus side, over-thinking is getting a lot of your questions answered and is hopefully building your knowledge base.

Here's what you need to know about shifting:
  1. If pedaling feels to difficult, shift to an easier gear. Likewise, if you feel like your cadence (pedal cycles per minute) is too fast, shift to a taller (more difficult gear).
  2. The small chainring on the front is easier to pedal, while the larger cogs on the back are easier to pedal.
  3. Cross chaining--big front/big back or small front/small back--is ok for brief periods and will only cause, maybe, a bit of chain rub. In general, though, you should avoid the extreme chain ring/cassette cog combinations that cause a lot of cross chaining. A 9 spd chain is a bit less tolerant of cross chaining than 10spd or 11spd chains because the latter are a bit more laterally flexible. If you're not extremely chain chained all the time, you'll be ok.
  4. Shift to an easier gear before you need to. This allows to maintain your pace and will make for better shifting.
  5. Shifting up or down 2-3 cogs in back is roughly the same as shifting between chainrings in front in terms of gear ratios.
  6. Gear ratio is the number of teeth on the chainring divided by the number of teeth on the cassette cog. A lower ratio is an easier gear to pedal. An example: a 50/25 (50 tooth chainring, 25 tooth cog) is a 2.0 gear ratio, whereas a 34/25 is a 1.36 gear ratio. In practical terms, this means the 50/25 combo will turn the rear wheel twice for every crank rotation while the 34/25 will turn the rear wheel 1.36 times for every crank rotation.
  7. It's not really important to know what gear you're in. Instead, go by how your effort feels and change gears accordingly.
  8. Some systems might balk at changing front and back at the same time. Mine doesn't, but some people have that issue.

Just go out and do it. You learn shifting as you get more miles under your legs. As Swampy said, there's nothing conceptually difficult about cycling. That's one of the attractions the sport holds. The bicycle is a near perfect machine in that it can do so much with such simple equipment. It's incredibly efficient ( the drivetrain is about 98% efficient, which is several times the efficiency of a car), and in that efficiency and simplicity is its beauty.
 
Originally Posted by alienator .


Just go out and do it. You learn shifting as you get more miles under your legs. As Swampy said, there's nothing conceptually difficult about cycling. That's one of the attractions the sport holds. The bicycle is a near perfect machine in that it can do so much with such simple equipment. It's incredibly efficient ( the drivetrain is about 98% efficient, which is several times the efficiency of a car), and in that efficiency and simplicity is its beauty.

Yeah, it is pretty simple and does not rely on learning and developing a lot of skills. (Unless you are racing or very performance oriented, I guess.) Kids ride bikes and don't think much about it. I only got into these details because I am pretty mechanically oriented, wanted my bikes to be in perfect tune, and wanted to do all of the work myself. Plus I ride on a gravel road and things tend to shake loose a bit requiring frequent checking. This summer I helped "fix" 3 strangers' bikes on my rides.

My other suggestion is see if you can incorporate your bike more into the transportation needs of your life. It doesn't have to be only for recreational use. Besides commuting, I ride it on my typical chores to get a haircut, pickup milk, dinner, movies, go to the bank etc. For me these are only two mile trips or so and I don't think about it at all. It is pretty bike friendly where I live. Perhaps you live too far out in the country to do this.
 
Regarding bibs, would anyone have an idea what an Italian Giessegi size M 4 would be in correlation to a US size? I saw one on Ebay and asked the seller if they thought it would fit a person 5,7" with a 32" waist and they said definitely. May sound gross but it was listed as used in excellent condition with minimal use and I got it for 99 cents so I figured hey, it was worth the try. I will be sure to clean it thoroughly before I slip it on (if it actually does fit).
 
Originally Posted by simplyserving .

Regarding bibs, would anyone have an idea what an Italian Giessegi size M 4 would be in correlation to a US size? I saw one on Ebay and asked the seller if they thought it would fit a person 5,7" with a 32" waist and they said definitely. May sound gross but it was listed as used in excellent condition with minimal use and I got it for 99 cents so I figured hey, it was worth the try. I will be sure to clean it thoroughly before I slip it on (if it actually does fit).
I can't recommend that you buy used bike shorts. Some folks do, but to me it's no different than buying used underwear, except that used underwear probably isn't exposed to the heat, sweat, and other nasties that bike short chamois are. Sure they can be washed, but for me that would offer little comfort. New bike shorts can be had pretty darned cheap at Performance Bike, Nashbar, Price Point, and many other places.

As for sizing, there aren't many rules. Some bike clothes have a Euro fit, i.e. they're cut for thinner people. Some clothes have a fit more appropriate for Americans, i.e. they're cut for people with more girth for a given height. Even within each of those clothing cut types, the sizing isn't very consistent. Like with saddles, bike clothes are something that you just need to experiment with to find what works best.
 
Originally Posted by AlanG .

Yeah, it is pretty simple and does not rely on learning and developing a lot of skills. (Unless you are racing or very performance oriented, I guess.) Kids ride bikes and don't think much about it. I only got into these details because I am pretty mechanically oriented, wanted my bikes to be in perfect tune, and wanted to do all of the work myself. Plus I ride on a gravel road and things tend to shake loose a bit requiring frequent checking. This summer I helped "fix" 3 strangers' bikes on my rides.

My other suggestion is see if you can incorporate your bike more into the transportation needs of your life. It doesn't have to be only for recreational use. Besides commuting, I ride it on my typical chores to get a haircut, pickup milk, dinner, movies, go to the bank etc. For me these are only two mile trips or so and I don't think about it at all. It is pretty bike friendly where I live. Perhaps you live too far out in the country to do this.
One of the upsides to cycling for a lot of folks is actually the wrenching. Because of their simplicity, bikes don't require a bunch of specialized tools. I find the wrenching to be zen-like. One of the things I love most about getting a new frame and components is the assembly of everything from scratch.
 
Originally Posted by alienator .


One of the upsides to cycling for a lot of folks is actually the wrenching. Because of their simplicity, bikes don't require a bunch of specialized tools. I find the wrenching to be zen-like. One of the things I love most about getting a new frame and components is the assembly of everything from scratch.
Yeah, I built this bike from scratch and stripped other bikes completely down, painted the frames and then re-assembled them. I even polish out the oxidized aluminum.



I made these cable guides as none came with the frame.



Here's a bike that was being given away that I painted, polished and fixed up. It was pretty oxidized, rusty, and the shifters didn't work at all when I got it. (Spraying them with WD40 and waiting overnight fixed them.)



Yeah, I know the seat is tilted up!

I've always liked taking things apart and putting them back together since I could first hold a pair of pliers. I had an erector set when really young so maybe that started it. A couple of people on my street put some kids bikes out on the curb with the wheels off and some things messed up a bit. So I gathered them up, assembled and adjusted them and put them out on the curb in front of my house and they were gone pretty quickly. I just couldn't help myself I guess... sort of like doing a crossword puzzle or some hobby. There wasn't enough wrong to make it very challenging though.