Wobbly freehub

Discussion in 'UK and Europe' started by Simonb, Sep 28, 2004.

  1. Simonb

    Simonb Guest

    I noticed some play (about 1.5mm) in my freehub body when I arrived at work
    this morning. Is it safe to ride on or should I take it on the train to the
    bike shop this afternoon? A bit worrying as this part is fairly new -- what
    could cause this? Has it worked loose or would you suspect that it has been
    damaged in some way?
     
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  2. MSeries

    MSeries Guest

    Simonb wrote:
    > I noticed some play (about 1.5mm) in my freehub body when I arrived

    at work
    > this morning. Is it safe to ride on or should I take it on the train

    to the
    > bike shop this afternoon? A bit worrying as this part is fairly new

    -- what
    > could cause this? Has it worked loose or would you suspect that it

    has been
    > damaged in some way?


    Could have worked loose. Shimano ones are fixed on with a hollow bolt
    that accepts a 10mm allen key. To access it you need to remove the
    wheel, QR skewer, cone and axle. I'd risk riding it home personally and
    take it apart before using it again. (I do all my own maintenance so
    visiting a LBS is very low down my list of options.)
     
  3. Simonb

    Simonb Guest

    MSeries wrote:

    > To access it you need to remove the
    > wheel, QR skewer, cone and axle.


    I'll buy some cone spanners on my way home, then. Working on hubs is
    something I've not attempted yet -- but probably something worth knowing.

    Thanks.
     
  4. MSeries

    MSeries Guest

    Simonb wrote:
    > MSeries wrote:
    >
    > > To access it you need to remove the
    > > wheel, QR skewer, cone and axle.

    >
    > I'll buy some cone spanners on my way home, then. Working on hubs is
    > something I've not attempted yet -- but probably something worth

    knowing.
    >
    > Thanks.


    Just take your time and don't loose the balls as they fall out ! I
    place a sheet of newspaper on the floor to catch the little critters.
    Read Sheldon Browns piece about changing freehubs to learn how they are
    fitted. Look at his 8 of 9 on 7 article.
     
  5. MSeries

    MSeries Guest

    Simonb wrote:
    > I noticed some play (about 1.5mm) in my freehub body when I arrived

    at work
    > this morning. Is it safe to ride on or should I take it on the train

    to the
    > bike shop this afternoon? A bit worrying as this part is fairly new

    -- what
    > could cause this? Has it worked loose or would you suspect that it

    has been
    > damaged in some way?


    Just given this some more thought, it could be that the freehub is
    fixed properly and simply knackered. You will be able to tell once you
    have it in bits but then you may need a new part so be prepared to have
    the bike off the road until you get it or dash out by some other means
    to get the part if you can. I got mine from Halfords BTW. It is a time
    consuming and messy job to re fit the ball bearings in the hub so you
    really don't want to take it all apart and rebuild with the old
    components until you can get a new fh body.
    NB I have an old spare 7 speed Uniglide one you can have.
     
  6. Simonb

    Simonb Guest

    MSeries wrote:

    > Just given this some more thought, it could be that the freehub is
    > fixed properly and simply knackered. You will be able to tell once you
    > have it in bits but then you may need a new part so be prepared to
    > have the bike off the road until you get it or dash out by some other
    > means to get the part if you can.


    If it's broken, I'll use my other bike in the meantime.

    > NB I have an old spare 7 speed Uniglide one you can have.


    Thanks for the offer, but mine's nine-speed.
     
  7. Pete Biggs

    Pete Biggs Guest

    Simonb wrote:
    > I noticed some play (about 1.5mm) in my freehub body when I arrived
    > at work this morning. Is it safe to ride on or should I take it on
    > the train to the bike shop this afternoon?


    Personally, I would ride it home/to shop, carefully, if the play was only
    slight.

    > A bit worrying as this
    > part is fairly new -- what could cause this? Has it worked loose or
    > would you suspect that it has been damaged in some way?


    Instructions, etc:
    www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml#drivetrain

    In case it's a Campag (or for anyone else with Campag hubs), the freehub
    is held on by a left-hand thread 17mm nut. Tighten this (anti-clockwise)
    to get rid of the play. Best to remove cassette to gain good access.

    With any make, if there isn't any actual sideways play (looseness), an
    out-of true freehub might just be down to the natural side effect of an
    imperfectly aligned freehub thread -- makes the cassette look wobbly as it
    turns -- very common and not a problem.

    ~PB
     
  8. Simonb

    Simonb Guest

    Thanks for your helps. I bought some panners on the way home and started
    loosening the cones, realised that the non-drive side nut was moving but the
    drive side wasn't. So I decided to use a vise to hold the axle, and started
    tightening them up again. I then noticed that the freehub was becoming less
    wobbly the more I tightened. It seems fixed but I haven't put it back
    together yet. Could a loose cone have been the problem? Seems that there
    should be more holding it on than that.
     
  9. Simonb wrote:
    > Thanks for your helps. I bought some panners on the way home and
    > started loosening the cones, realised that the non-drive side nut was
    > moving but the drive side wasn't. So I decided to use a vise to hold
    > the axle, and started tightening them up again. I then noticed that
    > the freehub was becoming less wobbly the more I tightened. It seems
    > fixed but I haven't put it back together yet. Could a loose cone have
    > been the problem? Seems that there should be more holding it on than
    > that.


    A too slack cone would allow the whole wheel to wobble, the free hub should
    be firmly fixed to the hub so the freehub would not wobble in relation to
    the wheel if the cone was the only problem. The drive side cup is part of
    the freehub[*] so a tighter cone-cup would hold a loose freehub on better.

    [*]This is one reason why cassette hubs are better than screw on blocks, it
    allows the bearings to be wider apart.
     
  10. Simonb

    Simonb Guest

    Martin Newstead wrote:

    > A too slack cone would allow the whole wheel to wobble, the free hub
    > should be firmly fixed to the hub so the freehub would not wobble in
    > relation to the wheel if the cone was the only problem. The drive
    > side cup is part of the freehub[*] so a tighter cone-cup would hold a
    > loose freehub on better.


    So, I still ought to remove the DS cone and properly tighten the freehub
    body?
     
  11. Simonb wrote:
    > Martin Newstead wrote:
    >
    >> A too slack cone would allow the whole wheel to wobble, the free hub
    >> should be firmly fixed to the hub so the freehub would not wobble in
    >> relation to the wheel if the cone was the only problem. The drive
    >> side cup is part of the freehub[*] so a tighter cone-cup would hold a
    >> loose freehub on better.

    >
    > So, I still ought to remove the DS cone and properly tighten the
    > freehub body?


    If it was mine I would, for piece of mind if not anything else. You may not
    be able to loosen one of the cones, you only need to remove one to extract
    the axle. Take car not to loose any ball bearings. While you are at it you
    might as well clean and -regrease the bearings so even if the freehub is
    attached properly your time will be well spent.
     
  12. Simonb

    Simonb Guest

    Martin Newstead wrote:

    > If it was mine I would, for piece of mind if not anything else. You
    > may not be able to loosen one of the cones, you only need to remove
    > one to extract the axle. Take car not to loose any ball bearings.
    > While you are at it you might as well clean and -regrease the
    > bearings so even if the freehub is attached properly your time will
    > be well spent.


    So that is what I did. The freehub did need more tightening, although I
    think it might have been over-tightened at some point as it wouldn't reach a
    point where it was fully-tight and kept turning.

    Everything runs much smoother now -- thanks!
     
  13. Pete Biggs

    Pete Biggs Guest

    Simonb wrote:
    > Thanks for your helps. I bought some panners on the way home and
    > started loosening the cones, realised that the non-drive side nut was
    > moving but the drive side wasn't. So I decided to use a vise to hold
    > the axle......


    That's a bad idea as axles are easily damaged.

    It's important that the cones aren't adjusted too tight otherwise the
    bearings will wear prematurely. Use Park Tools' and Sheldon Brown's*
    instructions or a bike shop.

    * www.sheldonbrown.com

    ~PB
     
  14. Simonb

    Simonb Guest

    Pete Biggs wrote:
    > Simonb wrote:
    >> Thanks for your helps. I bought some panners on the way home and
    >> started loosening the cones, realised that the non-drive side nut was
    >> moving but the drive side wasn't. So I decided to use a vise to hold
    >> the axle......

    >
    > That's a bad idea as axles are easily damaged.


    Just as well because I didn't actually get that far as I realised the
    freehub was tighter when I'd tightened the cone prior to putting it in a
    vise.
     
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