Your Mechanical Ingenuity, talk about it!



TWOPBikeGuy

New Member
Mar 20, 2006
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Ok, so heres the deal with this thread, I want to see what everyone has done to "improvise" with mechanical aspects of bike settings and installation. Got a couple of my own to follow...

For my Road Bike

Frame: Look 486
Problem: I recently started to convert this to a semi Time-Trail frame so I can swap out bars and wheels to use it for both. Recently, I purchased the Easton EC90 Aero to serve as the permanent fork for both types of riding, as the frame is already semi-aero. Here is the problem. I busted the stock FSA headset and opted for a new Campi Record headset when purchasing a new one. The headset itself works great, but I had to use the Headset press tool to insert the internal cups, as they are press in only. For the stock Look Fork this worked fine, as the crown race did not have to be pushed on to the steer tube, the easton aero, however, has to have the crown race pushed on, therefore the fork actually moves in closer when on the bike, and would rub the bottom part of the headtube.
Solution: Looking through spare parts, I found a cut washer that fits pretty well around the steertube, and put that underneath the crown race to lower the fork just enough to be flush with the frame without rub.

Problem: New Nokon Calbes for bike. Kit is not long enough for rear brake cable to run through entire frame as is designed for housing all the way through.
Solution: Run just enough regualr housing inside the frame with Ferrels on each end to prevent compression, picking up the extra length.



Just two I can think of right now, im aware they are not "HOLY-****!" ideas but I thought it worked out pretty well. What else you guys got?
 
Sram P5 hub with a chainring bolted to the right flange. It was part of a dual stage drive train on a faired recumbant trike.
 
Ok so check this, anyone have steertube flex issues? Well, I know I may be a dumbass, but I found that I noticed a significant increase in stiffness by going from my negative rise and switching it back to a positive rise, and lowering the stem by removing spacers to compensate for the difference. The less of a length and added support by putting the stem right on the headest with no spacers made a huge difference in the stiffness.
 

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