YST threadless headsets



I

Ian Szekeres

Guest
I really would like to use a quill stem on my newly purchased bike, unfortunately it uses a
threadless headset system. Since I am just starting to ride again after 10 years, I would like to be
able to experiment some with my handlebar height.

Looking through past messages, I found the following:

>There's a company that sells 1" threadless headsets (G-Force) that attach entirely externally,
>allowing you to keep your threadless fork and install a conventional stem.

and this off Sheldon's site:

>The YST "GeForce" headset has a collar which slips over the steerer, and is
clamped to it with a >binder bolt near the top of the collar. The outside of this collar is
threaded, and the upper bearing >race screws onto these threads. The upper race assembly is fitted
with a binder bolt that clamps it
>tight onto these threads when the desired adjustment has been attained.

Looking at the current YST site:

http://www.yst-corp.com.tw/bycicle2.htm

yields little information for me, unfortunately. Granted, I am using a 1-1/8 headset and the post
referenced was a couple years old.

It seems as though I should be able to find some sort of locking collar to keep my current headset
compressed together, knock out the star fangled nut, and assuming the steerer tube is a consistant
thickness and not butted, simply slide a 25.4 stem into the steerer.

I am currently using a threadless riser, and while it does let me adjust the height, It seems like a
real kludge. I miss my old stem :(

Any advice would be appreciated

--ian
 
W

Werehatrack

Guest
On Tue, 24 Feb 2004 01:37:20 GMT, "Ian Szekeres" <[email protected]>
may have said:

>It seems as though I should be able to find some sort of locking collar to keep my current headset
>compressed together, knock out the star fangled nut, and assuming the steerer tube is a consistant
>thickness and not butted, simply slide a 25.4 stem into the steerer.
>
>I am currently using a threadless riser, and while it does let me adjust the height, It seems like
>a real kludge. I miss my old stem :(
>
>Any advice would be appreciated

A really cheap threadless stem could be used as a clamp, with no bar installed. Or, if you're
adventurous, you might be able to use a
31.8mm seat clamp with the internal ridge reamed out. I wouldn't recommend that dodge personally,
since it leaves you with just one clamp bolt, but it might work. To get the preload set properly,
if the starfangled nut is already gone, take a piece of 1/4" or 6mm all-thread that's long enough
to go through the steerer and bend into a hook at the bottom, and use that with a wingnut to snug
down the cap at the top while you tighten the tube clamp.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
B

Bruni

Guest
While not cheap, Time makes an adjustable spacer called the microset. I sell both off list as does
your LBS (G-force is out of production but Microset is current). Tom

--
Bruni Bicycles
"Where art meets science"
brunibicycles.com
410.426.3420
Werehatrack <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 24 Feb 2004 01:37:20 GMT, "Ian Szekeres" <[email protected]>
> may have said:
>
> >It seems as though I should be able to find some sort of locking collar
to
> >keep my current headset compressed together, knock out the star fangled
nut,
> >and assuming the steerer tube is a consistant thickness and not butted,
> >simply slide a 25.4 stem into the steerer.
> >
> >I am currently using a threadless riser, and while it does let me adjust
the
> >height, It seems like a real kludge. I miss my old stem :(
> >
> >Any advice would be appreciated
>
> A really cheap threadless stem could be used as a clamp, with no bar
> installed. Or, if you're adventurous, you might be able to use a
> 31.8mm seat clamp with the internal ridge reamed out. I wouldn't
> recommend that dodge personally, since it leaves you with just one
> clamp bolt, but it might work. To get the preload set properly, if
> the starfangled nut is already gone, take a piece of 1/4" or 6mm
> all-thread that's long enough to go through the steerer and bend into
> a hook at the bottom, and use that with a wingnut to snug down the cap
> at the top while you tighten the tube clamp.
>
> --
> My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
> Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
> Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.
 
M

M-Gineering

Guest
> > On Tue, 24 Feb 2004 01:37:20 GMT, "Ian Szekeres" <[email protected]>
> > may have said:
> >
> > >It seems as though I should be able to find some sort of locking collar
> to
> > >keep my current headset compressed together, knock out the star fangled
> nut,
> > >and assuming the steerer tube is a consistant thickness and not butted, simply slide a 25.4
> > >stem into the steerer.

Airnimal folding bikes use such a setup: www.airnimal.com

--
---
Marten
 
A

A Muzi

Guest
Ian Szekeres wrote:

> I really would like to use a quill stem on my newly purchased bike, unfortunately it uses a
> threadless headset system.
-snip-
>>There's a company that sells 1" threadless headsets (G-Force) that attach entirely externally,
>>allowing you to keep your threadless fork and install a conventional stem.
> and this off Sheldon's site:
>>The YST "GeForce" headset has a collar which slips over the steerer, and is
> clamped to it with a >binder bolt near the top of the collar. The outside of this collar is
> threaded, and the upper bearing >race screws onto these threads. The upper race assembly is fitted
> with a binder bolt that clamps it
>>tight onto these threads when the desired adjustment has been attained.
-snip-

Yes, that's what you want. It's the discontinued YST "G-Force". They certainly came in handy,
though: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/FISHBAR.JPG

You might fabricate something to do that.
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971