Zero Gravity Brakes
- Thread starter 1x1
- Start date
1x1 said:
I just put them on my bike- upgraded from dura ace 7700. They're great- my issue is the brake pads. I ride reynolds stratus dv's- they're tubular carbon rims that should not be ridden w/ cork pads, so the corimas are out- the black pads are kool stop- I dont know how anyone used these- I tried them w/ ksyriums, they sucked, I tried them after I read reynolds recommends them on their wheels- they are grabby, squeal worse than any pig ever did and provide no ability for emergency stopping- saying they suck doesnt even come close. I called reynolds and they said, "they suck, they just list them because they're widely available". They suggested regular d/a pads, which work great, but zero gravity pad holders are campy compatible- I just ordered a set of campy pads, which reynolds says work best w/ their wheels anyway, but why would anyone have kool stop make anything for such a high quality piece of equipment?
Personally, I think they should change their name to Shi--y stop, it's much more appropriate.
they're simply awesome. better stopping power than my previous Dura Ace 7700, they look great, and weigh nothing. i've been using them (the Ti) for about a month on ksyrium ssc sl rims with the kool stop pads, and have had no problems whatsoever. highly recommended!1x1 said:
mises said:
Hey, if you like them on aluminum rims, that's great- I dont have a problem w/ the brakes- they are awesome- it's kool stop that I have my issues w/. By the way, anyone interested in picking up a brand new set of those black kool stops- cheap? I have an extra set, never used and have no use for them either!
I suffer the opposite problem with the black coolstops on Ultegra calipers. I am using Zipp 808 tubulars and they lock up on these wheels far to easily. Already ruined one brand new zipp tubular from an emergency stop (ripped the rubber clean of the tyre).mdeth1313 said:
Yes my wheel locked up tearing the rubber off the tyre (about a 3 inch section) exposing the cotton layers below.mdeth1313 said:
I have since had to adjust the rear brakes so that you need to pull the lever close to fully in. As during races when you have to do a full U turn I have had the wheel lock just as I enter the turn.
So it must have something to do with the way the braking surface is treated on the Reynolds wheels as every other rider I know with the zipps using Koolstop pads finds the braking to be excellent in the dry. Cannot comment on in the wet as I have yet to race them in the wet.
sambo76 said:
Yeah, Reynolds calls their braking surface carbon scratch, not carbon fiber, and they even suggested trying kool stop green pads for ceramic until they realized ZG brakes are campy compatible. I'm hesitant to use any of the kool stops, I wasnt happy w/ them on alloy wheels either- not that they were as horrible as on my reynolds, but they werent as good as the d/a pads.
Boy, do I need those campy pads to arrive, if I have to hear my wheels squeal one more time when I have to brake hard, it's gonna drive me nuts.
I can understand your dislike for the squeel. I cannot remember what wheel/brake pad combo it was but years ago I had a similar problem and it made me so furious. I am one who cannot handle any noise from my bikes as I ride (other than the sweet sound of my zipps at full flight).
sambo76 said:
That's pretty funny- considering carbon wheels are the cycling equivalent of a truck coming! No surprise attacks w/ those bad boys on. Honestly, I have so many other noises- the hollow rims echo and I have a clicking around my bottom bracket (when pedaling)- I've changed the bb, taken it out and overhauled it and tried packing w/ grease, still have the click- just need to live w/ it or possibly switch to the no external and see if there's a difference.
Not that big of a deal anyway. There's always some noise.
mdeth1313 said:
Think outside the box, obviously it's not the bottom bracket shell or bearings that click. Go to a good bikeshop and let them help you. I think you made a guess based on where you heard it, but when it gets down to it, it's a cyclic sound related to your pedaling but can come from a lot of different places and you can't tell from where while riding it.
hey, i just got my zero gravs about a month ago and they just kill everything ive used record skeleton inc..1x1 said:
i havent used them with my carbon wheels yet as im looking for the cork pads.
if i can get a reply for the best pads to use in these, keep in mind the cork pads worked best on my wheels with my other calipers...
Have you got the toe in set on the brake pads. Mine are squealing like a ***** at the moment, i had them adjusted ok but we had a race recently with a downhill into a sharp right hander. Hard braking for about 20 laps, the pad wore down on the front and by the end they were flat against the rim (no toe in) and squealing badly. You may want to check this.mdeth1313 said:
Post was about 0G brakes ... but anyway. Reynolds recommend Swissstop pads and Kool Stop. On their website and on all there advertising jargon the number one recomendation is Swissstop. The better wheels ship with a set of them as well. The Attack ship with Baradine pads. The Swissstop pads are excellent. I have been using them for six months on Reynolds Attack and also for racing on a set of DV46T. I have just fitted the 0G brakes and am looking forward to testing. BUT ... you'll never get the same braking on carbon as alu. Using DA pads is not a good idea if the brakes are going to be used for more than feathering as the heat build up will be too great. Also the braking surface is a Woven Scrim.
cheers
cheers
mdeth1313 said:
