Advice sought on fork repair

[Andrew W]

I have a broken fork which I would like to get repaired.

http://tinyurl.com/coljg

The left hand fork has the steerer tube come away from the crown. The
threaded insert for mudguard/brakes/reflector bracket is all that is
holding the steerer in place.

The fork is from a 26" wheel touring bike with 1" unthreaded steerer.
The main frame is Renolds 631 tubing, the fork isn't marked so I don't
know the exact materials, though it is the original for that bike.

I would just go ahead and get it fixed, but there are two things that
concern me:

1. Looking from below (http://tinyurl.com/88vxd) the end of the steerer
tube is now distinctly flattened at one side and has deformed the hole
in the crown. It is no longer a snug fit in the crown, but wobbles
freely. (I had difficulty getting my camera to focus on the right bit
here so the photo isn't as clear as it might be).

2. No matter what I do the steerer will never sit straight, this is
about the best I can do (http://tinyurl.com/dtvc7). The only thing I
can think of is that the crown itself may be somewhat twisted (though I
can see no sign of damage even to the paintwork).

So, at last getting to the point. Should I:

1. Get a new steerer fixed to the damaged fork, letting the
framebuilder work out how to get it straight and fill in any gaps round
the hole.

2. On the right of the pictures you will see an old 531 fork. Can I
simply have the threaded steerer replaced with a longer, unthreaded one
and use this? (lack of disk and low-rider mounts are not and issue)?

Advice sought.

Andrew

 

[[email protected]]

Maybe cheaper to get a new fork.

 

[Mark Hickey]

[email protected] wrote:

> Maybe cheaper to get a new fork.

This is the ONLY way to go in the described situation, unless the
original fork is part of a historically significant and valuable
frame. Otherwise, it will be MUCH cheaper (and safer!) to replace the
fork.

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $695 ti frame

 

[RonSonic]

On Sun, 24 Jul 2005 05:40:08 -0400, [email protected] wrote:

> Maybe cheaper to get a new fork.

I'd feel a lot better if I were the one riding it.

Ron

 

[Werehatrack]

On 24 Jul 2005 02:26:26 -0700, "Andrew W"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>So, at last getting to the point. Should I:
>
>1. Get a new steerer fixed to the damaged fork, letting the
>framebuilder work out how to get it straight and fill in any gaps round
>the hole.

It would probably be much cheaper to get a new fork, and would
certainly be cheaper to get a used fork that's in good condition. If
money wasn't a concern, I'd still scrap that fork due to the
deformation in the crown stamping. The support for the end of the
tube looks like it was significantly less than I'd have liked to begin
with; why try to preserve something that seems to have had
shortcomings that produced a failure?

>2. On the right of the pictures you will see an old 531 fork. Can I
>simply have the threaded steerer replaced with a longer, unthreaded one
>and use this? (lack of disk and low-rider mounts are not and issue)?

Although this is technically possible, once again it's likely that a
new fork would be considerably cheaper, and a used one with an
appropriate steerer (which is what you're talking about expensively
making from that old fork) would be less far costly than the mod. It
may take a bit of shopping, though; one inch threadless forks for that
wheel size aren't exactly common...but I see them turn up on eBay
often enough.

As an alternate, I might consider using a threaded fork and a
threaded-to-threadless conversion stem; used threaded forks are much
more plentiful.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

 

[Bill Sornson]

Andrew W wrote:
> I have a broken fork which I would like to get repaired.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/coljg
>
> The left hand fork has the steerer tube come away from the crown.

Dude. There's this radical concept called "spending a little money". BUY
*TWO* NEW FORKS (that green one's gotta go, too).

What kind of bikes were these attcahed to? Maybe time to replace them as
well?

Life's too short... BS

 

[Bill Sornson]

Bill Sornson wrote:
> Andrew W wrote:
>> I have a broken fork which I would like to get repaired.
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/coljg
>>
>> The left hand fork has the steerer tube come away from the crown.
>
> Dude. There's this radical concept called "spending a little money".
> BUY *TWO* NEW FORKS (that green one's gotta go, too).

OK, I re-read post. Still...

 

[Andrew W]

If I could easily source a decent fork of appropriate dimensions then I
would buy one, but none of five bike shops I visited yesterday had ANY
forks of this size, never mind some that would be a good match for my
frame.

A good bit of internet seaching has failed to come up with anything
either. Surprising for a 3-year old bike, but that's life.

So the only choices I seem to have are using these or spending a
significant amount having one custom made.

I'm not averse to spending a little money - after all, I reckon a
replacement steerer will be fifty to sixty pounds by the time I've got
it re-painted etc. My problem is that stock forks of this dimension
just don't seem to be available at any price.

Andrew

 

[Andrew W]

Thanks for your comments.

I think the failure of the fork had more to do with my collision with
an oncoming vehicle than any design problems. However, the consensus
seems to be that damage to the crown such as this rules out repair - I
think I will have to resign myself to this view.

I have had a good look on e-bay in the UK with no luck. Maybe I should
hold off for a while and keep looking. The problem is that not only is
it 1", but the steerer length in 260mm, which seems to be longer than
the average, and rules out most second-hand forks.

It is my inability to source a new fork that leads me to contemplate
other options in the first place. It seems odd that I can easily
source spares for bikes dating back to the 70s and 80s, but not ones
from this century.

Your idea of looking for a threaded fork and using an adaptor seems a
good one. After all it doubles my chances of a successful search. I
will be replacing the headset in any case, so that isn't an issue.

Thanks for the advice

Andrew

 

[philcycles]

Andrew W wrote:
> If I could easily source a decent fork of appropriate dimensions then I
> would buy one, but none of five bike shops I visited yesterday had ANY
> forks of this size, never mind some that would be a good match for my
> frame.
>
> A good bit of internet seaching has failed to come up with anything
> either. Surprising for a 3-year old bike, but that's life.
>
> So the only choices I seem to have are using these or spending a
> significant amount having one custom made.
>
> I'm not averse to spending a little money - after all, I reckon a
> replacement steerer will be fifty to sixty pounds by the time I've got
> it re-painted etc. My problem is that stock forks of this dimension
> just don't seem to be available at any price.
>
> Andrew

 

[philcycles]

Andrew W wrote:

> So the only choices I seem to have are using these or spending a
> significant amount having one custom made.
>
> I'm not averse to spending a little money - after all, I reckon a
> replacement steerer will be fifty to sixty pounds by the time I've got
> it re-painted etc. My problem is that stock forks of this dimension
> just don't seem to be available at any price.
>
> Andrew

Just have one made. I'd be willing to bet that you can get pne for what
you were going to spend on the repair. I'd make a fork like the one you
want for $150 with a simple paint job and it will be cheaper in Jolly
Old.
Phil Brown

 

[jim beam]

Andrew W wrote:
> I have a broken fork which I would like to get repaired.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/coljg
>
> The left hand fork has the steerer tube come away from the crown. The
> threaded insert for mudguard/brakes/reflector bracket is all that is
> holding the steerer in place.
>
> The fork is from a 26" wheel touring bike with 1" unthreaded steerer.
> The main frame is Renolds 631 tubing, the fork isn't marked so I don't
> know the exact materials, though it is the original for that bike.
>
> I would just go ahead and get it fixed, but there are two things that
> concern me:
>
> 1. Looking from below (http://tinyurl.com/88vxd) the end of the steerer
> tube is now distinctly flattened at one side and has deformed the hole
> in the crown. It is no longer a snug fit in the crown, but wobbles
> freely. (I had difficulty getting my camera to focus on the right bit
> here so the photo isn't as clear as it might be).
>
> 2. No matter what I do the steerer will never sit straight, this is
> about the best I can do (http://tinyurl.com/dtvc7). The only thing I
> can think of is that the crown itself may be somewhat twisted (though I
> can see no sign of damage even to the paintwork).
>
> So, at last getting to the point. Should I:
>
> 1. Get a new steerer fixed to the damaged fork, letting the
> framebuilder work out how to get it straight and fill in any gaps round
> the hole.

why not? you like the fork, you can save money by painting it
yourself... just make sure you don't go back to the guy that built it
in the first place. the failure appears to be the brazing coming apart
- the tube/crown/blades should break long before the weld breaks on a
socket connection like that. suspect the crown/steerer tube interface
was not sufficiently clean/fluxed before brazing. again, find a good
competent builder that knows that they're doing.

try http://www.merciancycles.co.uk/renovation.asp

new fork column 40 ukp

>
> 2. On the right of the pictures you will see an old 531 fork. Can I
> simply have the threaded steerer replaced with a longer, unthreaded one
> and use this? (lack of disk and low-rider mounts are not and issue)?

yes, but it costs the same...

>
> Advice sought.

you could also try a cyclocross carbon fork like winwood, but
personally, i'd only use a steel steerer of a 1" fork, especially for
the larger sizes, but that's your call.

>
> Andrew
>

 

[Werehatrack]

On 24 Jul 2005 08:32:13 -0700, "Andrew W"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>If I could easily source a decent fork of appropriate dimensions then I
>would buy one, but none of five bike shops I visited yesterday had ANY
>forks of this size, never mind some that would be a good match for my
>frame.
>
>A good bit of internet seaching has failed to come up with anything
>either. Surprising for a 3-year old bike, but that's life.

You said it was a 26" fork; would that be for 559 or 590 wheels? If
the rims are 559, then look for a mountain bike fork. If the rims are
590, then you're up against more of a challenge.

There's a decent 559 mtb fork with a 280mm steerer at Nashbar for
US$65 plus shipping.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

 

[Andrew W]

Damage was accident rather than wear and tear so no complaints there.

Thanks for thr recommedation of Mercian, I had overlooked them. Having
had differing advice I will come down on fitting a new steerer to the
531 fork. It has plenty of miles on it (pre cycle computer days so I
don't know how many exactly), and should be good for a lot more.

I have found Bob Jackson (Leeds), Argos (Bristol) and now Mercian all
offering reasonable rates for the modification (all around 40 pounds) -
I'm spoilt for choice - all these have excellent reputations, though I
have no personal experience.

You are right about the paintwork. All the above would charge nearly
as much again for painting. All in all 40 pounds for a 531 fork looks
good value (especially as I have no possible other use for it).

Thanks to all for helping me make up my mind.

Andrew

 

[A Muzi]

Andrew W wrote:

> I have a broken fork which I would like to get repaired.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/coljg
>
> The left hand fork has the steerer tube come away from the crown. The
> threaded insert for mudguard/brakes/reflector bracket is all that is
> holding the steerer in place.
>
> The fork is from a 26" wheel touring bike with 1" unthreaded steerer.
> The main frame is Renolds 631 tubing, the fork isn't marked so I don't
> know the exact materials, though it is the original for that bike.
>
> I would just go ahead and get it fixed, but there are two things that
> concern me:
>
> 1. Looking from below (http://tinyurl.com/88vxd) the end of the steerer
> tube is now distinctly flattened at one side and has deformed the hole
> in the crown. It is no longer a snug fit in the crown, but wobbles
> freely. (I had difficulty getting my camera to focus on the right bit
> here so the photo isn't as clear as it might be).
> 2. No matter what I do the steerer will never sit straight, this is
> about the best I can do (http://tinyurl.com/dtvc7). The only thing I
> can think of is that the crown itself may be somewhat twisted (though I
> can see no sign of damage even to the paintwork).
> So, at last getting to the point. Should I:
> 1. Get a new steerer fixed to the damaged fork, letting the
> framebuilder work out how to get it straight and fill in any gaps round
> the hole.
> 2. On the right of the pictures you will see an old 531 fork. Can I
> simply have the threaded steerer replaced with a longer, unthreaded one
> and use this? (lack of disk and low-rider mounts are not and issue)?

If you engage a framebuilder s/he will work out the
alignment, don't worry.
And if you're going to pay for a fork rebuild ( usually
costs more than just buying a fork) decide which of the two
you prefer and/or see if the rake and clearance are
identical. Your framebuilder should be able to advise, so
bring both along.
Did you inquire about a warranty replacement on that
defective fork? If you are the original owner you may be
able to get a free replacement - that is not a normally
expected failure.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[A Muzi]

Andrew W wrote:

> If I could easily source a decent fork of appropriate dimensions then I
> would buy one, but none of five bike shops I visited yesterday had ANY
> forks of this size, never mind some that would be a good match for my
> frame.
>
> A good bit of internet seaching has failed to come up with anything
> either. Surprising for a 3-year old bike, but that's life.
>
> So the only choices I seem to have are using these or spending a
> significant amount having one custom made.
>
> I'm not averse to spending a little money - after all, I reckon a
> replacement steerer will be fifty to sixty pounds by the time I've got
> it re-painted etc. My problem is that stock forks of this dimension
> just don't seem to be available at any price.

Try an email with dimensions ( or bike year/model) to Peter,
Sheldon Brown, ourselves, similar shops which commonly
service road bikes.

Few 'bike shops' worthy of the name any more. . .

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[Zog The Undeniable]

Andrew W wrote:

> 2. On the right of the pictures you will see an old 531 fork. Can I
> simply have the threaded steerer replaced with a longer, unthreaded one
> and use this? (lack of disk and low-rider mounts are not and issue)?

Option 2 is marginally cheaper than a new carbon fork from eBay, and
much cheaper than a new steel fork. Cost about 50UKP including paint
over here, not sure in the US.

Measure the rake and ensure it is reasonably close to that of the old
fork. Most forks for racing bikes have a rake of 43mm or thereabouts,
but touring bikes with slack head angles often have huge rake. Put one
of those on a frame with a steep head angle and you'll be in the ditch
as soon as you get out of the saddle.

 

[Zog The Undeniable]

Andrew W wrote:

> 2. On the right of the pictures you will see an old 531 fork. Can I
> simply have the threaded steerer replaced with a longer, unthreaded one
> and use this? (lack of disk and low-rider mounts are not and issue)?

Option 2 is marginally cheaper than a new carbon fork from eBay, and
much cheaper than a new steel fork. Cost about 50UKP including paint
over here, not sure in the US.

Measure the rake and ensure it is reasonably close to that of the old
fork. Most forks for racing bikes have a rake of 43mm or thereabouts,
but touring bikes with slack head angles often have huge rake. Put one
of those on a frame with a steep head angle and you'll be in the ditch
as soon as you get out of the saddle.

 

[Zog The Undeniable]

Andrew W wrote:

> 2. On the right of the pictures you will see an old 531 fork. Can I
> simply have the threaded steerer replaced with a longer, unthreaded one
> and use this? (lack of disk and low-rider mounts are not and issue)?

Option 2 is marginally cheaper than a new carbon fork from eBay, and
much cheaper than a new steel fork. Cost about 50UKP including paint
over here, not sure in the US.

Measure the rake and ensure it is reasonably close to that of the old
fork. Most forks for racing bikes have a rake of 43mm or thereabouts,
but touring bikes with slack head angles often have huge rake. Put one
of those on a frame with a steep head angle and you'll be in the ditch
as soon as you get out of the saddle.

 

[Zog The Undeniable]

Andrew W wrote:

> 2. On the right of the pictures you will see an old 531 fork. Can I
> simply have the threaded steerer replaced with a longer, unthreaded one
> and use this? (lack of disk and low-rider mounts are not and issue)?

Option 2 is marginally cheaper than a new carbon fork from eBay, and
much cheaper than a new steel fork. Cost about 50UKP including paint
over here, not sure in the US.

Measure the rake and ensure it is reasonably close to that of the old
fork. Most forks for racing bikes have a rake of 43mm or thereabouts,
but touring bikes with slack head angles often have huge rake. Put one
of those on a frame with a steep head angle and you'll be in the ditch
as soon as you get out of the saddle.