Tour de France and tire diameters ?!



Canuckophile

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Jun 3, 2011
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Hi fellows,

About twenty-years ago Tour de France tire diameters were about 22mm to 23mm then they increased to 25mm. I watched a show on YouTube yesterday and the fellow was looking at several different teams bikes at the TDF and the tires are now 28mm to 31mm. The larger the tire the more road resistance, but increased comfort.

What is the theory for the optimum tire diameter these days for road cycling on pavement?

Thank you,

C
 
great topic . Id ridden years (decades)ago on 21 and 23 mm and from june 2022 through spring 2023 on 25mm tires. Loved 25mm over 23mm.

Then I upgraded to a new road bike with 28mm tires . Wont be going back smaller than 28mm ever. Ever ever ever. Or aluminum frame on the road for that matter.

I almost put 32mm tires on the bike during build ( plenty of room ) and expect when the rear tire wears out - to simply replace both 28mm tires with 32mm.
I can say with the 28mm bike still steers / dives into turns fast like a 25mm. The roads in my county favor the larger tire IMO.

Had never rode 30 or 32mm. Ridden bigger tires 38mm but on my hybrid bike.
Hard to say whats optimal tire size for road cycling on pavement . need more replies !
 
Hi fellows,

About twenty-years ago Tour de France tire diameters were about 22mm to 23mm then they increased to 25mm. I watched a show on YouTube yesterday and the fellow was looking at several different teams bikes at the TDF and the tires are now 28mm to 31mm. The larger the tire the more road resistance, but increased comfort.

What is the theory for the optimum tire diameter these days for road cycling on pavement?

Thank you,

C

Actually GCN have videos to prove that wider tires that less rolling (rubber on pavement) resistance compared to narrower tires.

Aerodynamic resistance is only marginally higher when the tires are mated to modern aero-profiled wide rims. Actual test had marginable difference that could have easily been placebo effect. In other words, there really is no difference in performance, you might as well go for wider tires for improved comfort and safety.

The only con of wider tires, a very minor one and may not even worth mentioning is the weight. Obviously, it has more rubber and will be heavier but this marginable increase in weight won't likely affect your climbing performance. Whatever effect would more likely be from placebo effect.

There are more positives. One them is the option to use much smaller minipump since you don't need to inflate it to crazy high pressures. You may also be able to use gravel roads if the surface is not too harsh.
 
Hi fellows,

Since we are on the topic of tires. I noticed that some of the riders in the Tour de France are using Continental Grand Prix 5000 TT TdF (Tour de France) tires on their road bikes. What do you think about that? Is this new tire technology going to replace road bike tires?

I personally prefer to use Continental Gator Skins, so I do not get so many flat tires! There is so much **** on the roads now!

Thanks,

C
 
Hi fellows,

Since we are on the topic of tires. I noticed that some of the riders in the Tour de France are using Continental Grand Prix 5000 TT TdF (Tour de France) tires on their road bikes. What do you think about that? Is this new tire technology going to replace road bike tires?

I personally prefer to use Continental Gator Skins, so I do not get so many flat tires! There is so much **** on the roads now!

Thanks,

C

I don't think they will just replace a tire line with something more expensive. And frankly I don't care. I don't go for the fastest affordable tires out there.

My tires are slow puncture proof urban tires by Panaracer. The most durable long lasting tires I have ever used, and yet, cheap so it's expected to be slow. In fact, I have to inflate it significantly higher than the pressure recommended for my weight to get any speed out of it. The recommended pressure at my weight is just under 45 psi but inflate it to 60 psi to get a bit faster but still not as fast as the contis, not even close. The tire's max pressure is 90 psi. The ride is shockingly brutal on our damaged roads but if I'm looking for a bit of speed.
 
in my opinion the quote
" The only con of wider tires, a very minor one and may not even worth mentioning is the weight. "
I would say consider the handling characteristics of the wider larger tire as a downside.
In that a wider tire is going to turn in and turn out less quickly on that bike. Where one draws the line as how wide is all about taste application or budget maybe all 3. If budget allows , a bike of each genre would be ideal. Cake and eat it .
 
in my opinion the quote
" The only con of wider tires, a very minor one and may not even worth mentioning is the weight. "
I would say consider the handling characteristics of the wider larger tire as a downside.
In that a wider tire is going to turn in and turn out less quickly on that bike. Where one draws the line as how wide is all about taste application or budget maybe all 3. If budget allows , a bike of each genre would be ideal. Cake and eat it .

I have heavy $90 wheels with 32 spokes each. The puncture proof, 35mm tubed tires makes it even heavier. But it would still be heavy even if I put 28mm Conti 5K's in there. It's the same kind of freehub wheels you find installed on department store or sporting goods store bikes. They're quite cheaply made and thus, heavy.

Just to make sure we're on the same page, it wasn't the size nor shape of the tire's contact patch with the road nor the sidewall flex that makes a wheel harder to turn in at speed assuming correct inflation pressure. Past 10 mph, the effect is dominated entirely by the wheel's weight and must be from "gyroscopic effect". The effect is quite strong at >30 mph. The tires originally installed on my wheels were 28mm's and couldn't tell the difference in turn in at higher speeds because the wheel remains heavy.

Some might think it's due to sidewall flex of wider tires makes them less agile. That might be true if you installed wide tires on narrow rim. However, if you put wide tires on the correct width rim, then sidewall flex would be insignificant. In fact, you won't even notice it even if you're slaloming quite aggressively between cars in traffic.

I won't deny the fact my bike feels reluctant to turn during high speed descents. And turn in remains sluggish even below 15 mph. It actually proved to be a bit of a problem in our very crowded, very chaotic streets, dodging cars, motorcycles, other cyclists, and bumps on the road.

But as any problem, it can be fixed without having to buy an expensive set of lightweight wheels. I replaced the 80 mm stem with 32 mm stem and the sluggish turn in problem was solved! Turn in improved at all speeds. The bike even felt too agile at first! But after a month on the 32 mm stem, it just feels perfect. I even think the short stem feels more stable in high speed descents after you get used to it. The longer stem was "wobbly" if I make the wrong move while descending while the 32 mm stem was quite stable even if I descend one handed while stretching my back at >30 mph which I often do, but not before I started using 32 mm stem.
 
there's a lot of info there. While the science might not support it , the smaller tires just "feel " to me more responsive to steering input. And by that I am speaking of the drop -in moment of a corner - or chicane ect or a swerve around object in road. More my head upper body steering inputs than my hands .

Interesting on the stem . Im running 90mm if we are measuring to bar center to stem bolt center.
Any shorter I will hit my knees on the bars when out of saddle standing over front of bike .

The bikes very stable just one hand on the drop bar, in this case I think the stability is in the geometry of the bike. Im curious the geometry of the bike you shortened the stem on.
 
there's a lot of info there. While the science might not support it , the smaller tires just "feel " to me more responsive to steering input. And by that I am speaking of the drop -in moment of a corner - or chicane ect or a swerve around object in road. More my head upper body steering inputs than my hands .

Interesting on the stem . Im running 90mm if we are measuring to bar center to stem bolt center.
Any shorter I will hit my knees on the bars when out of saddle standing over front of bike .

The bikes very stable just one hand on the drop bar, in this case I think the stability is in the geometry of the bike. Im curious the geometry of the bike you shortened the stem on.

The "science" of turn in that includes leaning into a turn or swerve is a rather controversial and even complicated topic in cycling. :D I didn't believe it at first but the bike "counter-steers" right before we lean into the turn.

It must be from the gyroscopic forces that makes the front wheel counter-steer and wheel weight and tire width would be a factor. But from personal experience, I couldn't tell the difference in turn in between 28 mm and 35 mm tires on the same wheelset.

I know exactly what you say when you lean into a turn to get around an obstacle, a pothole, a distracted pedestrian or filtering between traffic at 20 mph. I ride quite aggressively in traffic and I do a lot of evasive maneuvering on rides if you can imagine the brutal road conditions we have and I really don't find it any fun and rather found it very stressful! Bike becomes harder to turn in at high speed as you can feel the bike is resisting efforts to turn. Yet, having a short stem made it easier. In fact my bike now feels easier to turn than a friends race bike that is only half the weight of my bike!

My theory is that longer stem better resist forces that turn the front wheel. Most riders prefer this behavior as it feels more stable. Short stem does the opposite and will affect turn in. GCN confirms this but came up short by not giving themselves a chance to get used to a short stem and referred to it as "too twitchy". It takes a month to get used to the handling of a short stem, not one day!

Ofc some would be more sensitive to small changes. It's just these things never crossed my mind. When my bike didn't turn in as well as now, I rode less aggressively and more slowly around traffic. I didn't see the the need to improve the situation, thus, why I probably didn't noticed it but I notice it now when I changed stem.

The real reason I went for a short stem is because I positioned my saddle all the way to the back and it made me feel like I'm over-reaching with the 80 mm stem and so I replaced it with 32 mm stem. I like my saddle all the way back to avoid over-engagement of quads when cruising on the flats and also to unload the arms. It's a strategy to be able to complete a 70 mile ride without stopping by maximizing comfort and reducing overall muscular fatigue. The short stem improving turn in at all speed speed is a huge bonus for me.

Interesting on the stem . Im running 90mm if we are measuring to bar center to stem bolt center.
Any shorter I will hit my knees on the bars when out of saddle standing over front of bike .

My knees still have good clearance on the drop bar when I pedal out of the saddle with 32 mm stem. I'm even using two sizes smaller frame size!

I think we simply have different out of the saddle position. I prefer an out of the saddle position that is further backward to avoid over-engagement of the quads in order to save the quads to avoid bonking a long ride or a long climb. The same reason I set my saddle all the way back.

The bikes very stable just one hand on the drop bar, in this case I think the stability is in the geometry of the bike. Im curious the geometry of the bike you shortened the stem on.

Geometry is typical of modern road bikes. It's only unstable when when hitting bumps while riding one hand. Remember our poor road conditions that is quite bumpy and uneven. Absolutely stable riding one hand on smooth road sections.

The shock of the bumps will get to your hands. When riding one hand, the forces from the bumps would only only act one side of the handlebar and cause unwanted steering inputs. This sometimes caused steering wobble. With the short stem, the wobbling goes out much quicker or doesn't wobble at all.

I don't know exactly why having a shorter stem is able to dampen or completely eliminate steering wobble after unwanted steering inputs.
 
F5D9575B-255B-40FB-AD3B-53974484A19A.jpeg

Shorter than this ?
Are we referencing stem bolt center to bar center might I ask if I forgot how tall are you.!


back on topic " Tour De France tire diameters .

A source on cycling weekly said the smallest tire on this years tour was Cav's bike with 26mm.
Article said everyone else ran 28mm tires the majority GP5000's and Vittoria's Corsa if I read correct. Inner tubes in some stages.
 
View attachment 6646
Shorter than this ?
Are we referencing stem bolt center to bar center might I ask if I forgot how tall are you.!


back on topic " Tour De France tire diameters .

A source on cycling weekly said the smallest tire on this years tour was Cav's bike with 26mm.
Article said everyone else ran 28mm tires the majority GP5000's and Vittoria's Corsa if I read correct. Inner tubes in some stages.

61cAtnueGiL._AC_UF350,350_QL80_.jpg

Yup, this is the exact same stem I use on my road/gravel bike. You can find this stem at Walmart but I won't recommend this particular design. It's even heavier than the stock 80mm stem of my bike! But it's ridiculously cheap that's why I bought it.

I'm 5'8" and using 2 sizes smaller frame. I'm not compensating for a "too small" frame because if I did, I would have gone for longer stem instead.

It's mostly due to my relatively unique pedaling style. I feel too stretched with traditional bike fitting.

Going back to tires, those 28mm's could actually measure 30mm wide once fitted on the modern wide aero rims!

In the move towards wider tires in the pro scene, I think improved safety and reliability is a factor. You're less likely to lose control and crash if your tires meet even a small defect on the road at race conditions.
 
Hi fellows,

About twenty-years ago Tour de France tire diameters were about 22mm to 23mm then they increased to 25mm. I watched a show on YouTube yesterday and the fellow was looking at several different teams bikes at the TDF and the tires are now 28mm to 31mm. The larger the tire the more road resistance, but increased comfort.

What is the theory for the optimum tire diameter these days for road cycling on pavement?

Thank you,

C
Aerodynamic resistance is only marginally higher when the tires are mated to modern aero-profiled wide rims. Actual test had marginable difference that could have easily been placebo effect. In other words, there really is no difference in performance, you might as well go for wider tires for improved comfort and safety.
 
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Aerodynamic resistance is only marginally higher when the tires are mated to modern aero-profiled wide rims. Actual test had marginable difference that could have easily been placebo effect. In other words, there really is no difference in performance, you might as well go for wider tires for improved comfort and safety.

The poor quality of the roads where I live is something I wouldn't feel safe descending with tires less than 32mm wide!
 
I'm likely moving to 32's as soon as I can wear my tires off.

Yeah, I remember you saying some of the chip seal have broken off in some of the roads you ride, the 32 mm would help in maintaining traction over crumbling roads. I also ride 32mm's. I've seen guys fly past me on descents at 40+ mph in this hell of a place on 25 mm tires on carbon rims.

But lately, I'm seeing more and more riders on 30 and 32mms.

Word of caution, you'll feel the difference with wider tires when you're pedaling out of the saddle. If you're twisting the handlebar on each pedal stroke, it will get a little harder to twist the handlebar so you might want to inflate the front tire with the same pressure as the rear tire but doing that on a wider tire may result to harsh ride to your hands.
 
Hi fellows,

About twenty-years ago Tour de France tire diameters were about 22mm to 23mm then they increased to 25mm. I watched a show on YouTube yesterday and the fellow was looking at several different teams bikes at the TDF and the tires are now 28mm to 31mm. The larger the tire the more road resistance, but increased comfort.

What is the theory for the optimum tire diameter these days for road cycling on pavement?

Thank you,

C
 
In summary, the Tour de France primarily uses road bikes equipped with 700c wheels, which are chosen for their efficiency, aerodynamics, and stability, with variations in tire width and tread to suit different race conditions.
 
Hey there! While I can appreciate the efficiency and aerodynamics of road bikes, there's just something about the unpredictability of gravel riding that gets my heart racing. Have you ever experienced the thrill of conquering a rugged trail or exploring backroads? It's a whole different kind of adventure! Let's continue discussing the merits of gravel riding versus other types, shall we?
 
Absolutely, the allure of gravel riding is undeniable! The thrill of navigating through uncharted territories and the satisfaction of overcoming challenging trails are truly unparalleled. I've had my fair share of road cycling adventures, but there's something about gravel riding that adds an extra layer of excitement.

As an astrophysics student and a road cyclist, I find it fascinating how the two intersect. Just like exploring the cosmos, gravel riding allows us to venture into the unknown and discover new horizons. It's a reminder that there's always more to explore, both on and off the beaten path.

I'm curious, what initially drew you to gravel riding? Was it the sense of adventure or perhaps the unique technical challenges it presents? I'd love to hear your thoughts and learn more about your experiences.