Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

New to road biking, need advice

Started by mikeprime · · Last activity · 8 posts · 544 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
25 October 2004
Last activity
29 October 2004
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mikeprime
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  1. I have been mtn. biking for several years, and after riding my friends road bike for the first time(and a broken collarbone as a result of the mtn. bike), decided I would like to get a road bike. I plan to do both, and have been looking for a bike for a few months. My cousin-in-law offered me his 1998 Trek Y77 Foil for $800 with Dura-ace group, shoes and a helmet, and from what I've read online, it seems to be a good bike, and a good price. Having never ridden on the road before, will this be hard to learn on? Also, what size is right for some one 5'9" (175 cm)? Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

    "Whatever you ride, ride it hard."

    Mike

  2. mikeprime said:


    I have been mtn. biking for several years, and after riding my friends
    road bike for the first time(and a broken collarbone as a result of the
    mtn. bike), decided I would like to get a road bike. I plan to do both,
    and have been looking for a bike for a few months. My cousin-in-law
    offered me his 1998 Trek Y77 Foil for $800 with Dura-ace group, shoes
    and a helmet, and from what I've read online, it seems to be a good
    bike, and a good price. Having never ridden on the road before, will
    this be hard to learn on?

    No harder than any other bike.

    Quoted message said:

    Also, what size is right for some one 5'9"
    (175 cm)?

    Depends. How long are your legs and how long is your torso? I am
    5'9" and all my bikes are 56cm c-t, but I have short legs and a long
    torso. I know folks who are also 5'9" but with long legs and short
    torso, and bikes 58-59cm c-t work best height-wise but the frames
    that tall need shorter top tubes than most current production bikes to
    fit those folks. Another consideration is BB height or BB drop
    (whichever way you prefer to measure); you could fit on a frame with
    a slightly longer seat tube if the BB is low.

    BTW, if the person with the Y-Foil does not remember the size, it is
    engraved on the inside of one of the rear dropouts.

    - rick

  3. Rick Warner said:


    Depends. How long are your legs and how long is your torso? I am
    5'9" and all my bikes are 56cm c-t, but I have short legs and a long
    torso. I know folks who are also 5'9" but with long legs and short
    torso, and bikes 58-59cm c-t work best height-wise but the frames
    that tall need shorter top tubes than most current production bikes to
    fit those folks. Another consideration is BB height or BB drop
    (whichever way you prefer to measure); you could fit on a frame with
    a slightly longer seat tube if the BB is low.

    BTW, if the person with the Y-Foil does not remember the size, it is
    engraved on the inside of one of the rear dropouts.

    - rick

    Hi, I agree, that fit is most important. If the bike fits the OP, then
    it is a good deal.
    On size, I'm 5'10" and my LeMond is a 53cm, although LeMond is
    measured dfifferently than Trek. My other bike, one I have owned since
    1976 is a 23" frame, which equates to appr 57cm. Both bikes fit me
    comfortably, but I prefer the LeMond.
    I have never had a true professional "fit", so I am basing my fit on
    comfort, achieved by a number of adjustments.
    For the OP, if the bike doesn't seem uncomfortably large or small, you
    can make some adjustments. Seat height is a no brainer, but within
    reason, you can move the saddle forward or back, even getting a
    setback seatpost. The stem is the usual place where adjustments are
    made, including the length and rise. The rise allowing you to raise or
    lower the height of the handlebars.
    If these adjustments need to be extreme, then the bike isn't the right
    size for you.
    The best starting point, would be to try riding it. The Dura-Ace
    components are no different in basic design,then the lower priced
    groups.
    If the bike fits, you would end up owning a very nice bike.

    Life is Good!
    Jeff

  4. "mikeprime" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Having never ridden on the road before, will

    Quoted message said:

    this be hard to learn on?

    Its a good idea to get some practice on relatively safe routes any time you
    move to a different type of bike. A road bike will handle and brake a little
    differently from a mountain bike ...not a lot different, but with some of
    the idjits you'll be sharing the road with it doesn't hurt to practice.

    --
    Derek Hodges
    Toronto

  5. mikeprime said:

    I have been mtn. biking for several years, and after riding my friends
    road bike for the first time(and a broken collarbone as a result of the
    mtn. bike), decided I would like to get a road bike. I plan to do both,
    and have been looking for a bike for a few months. My cousin-in-law
    offered me his 1998 Trek Y77 Foil for $800 with Dura-ace group, shoes
    and a helmet, and from what I've read online, it seems to be a good
    bike, and a good price. Having never ridden on the road before, will
    this be hard to learn on? Also, what size is right for some one 5'9"
    (175 cm)? Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

    "Whatever you ride, ride it hard."

    Mike

    Y-foils handle just like conventional frames; their steering
    geometry is nothing unusual. With the cantilever beam holding the
    seat, you get some suspension effect for the saddle. One slight
    difference I've noticed is that if you use pedals with lots of
    rotational float, like Speedplay (non-Zero type), it's easy to
    have your heel brush the upper rear stays, what would be called
    the seat stays on a diamond frame. With low-float pedals it's not
    a problem.

    Whether you like the unusual looks is obviously just personal taste.
    The frames are maybe a pound heavier than most new carbon frames,
    which barely matters unless you're racing uphill. It is supposedly
    one of the lower-drag (aerodynamic) frames around. If you want to
    compete in races, it's not UCI-legal, and in the US, it's USCF-legal
    for domestic races, but only until Jan 1, 2007, when the USCF adopts
    UCI rules.

    Fit depends on more than just your height. Try to find someone
    locally who can help you. To some extent, you can change stems and
    seat position to dial in the fit, but you don't want a way under or
    over-size frame. $800 sounds like a good price, assuming you like
    the bike, it's in good condition, and the right size. Other people
    will tend to think the bike is either really cool or really strange
    and ugly. They aren't very common.

    Dave Lehnen

  6. Make sure you have at least one inch (with your barefeet) of standover
    height!
    "Rick Warner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    mikeprime said:


    I have been mtn. biking for several years, and after riding my friends
    road bike for the first time(and a broken collarbone as a result of the
    mtn. bike), decided I would like to get a road bike. I plan to do both,
    and have been looking for a bike for a few months. My cousin-in-law
    offered me his 1998 Trek Y77 Foil for $800 with Dura-ace group, shoes
    and a helmet, and from what I've read online, it seems to be a good
    bike, and a good price. Having never ridden on the road before, will
    this be hard to learn on?

    No harder than any other bike.

    Quoted message said:

    Also, what size is right for some one 5'9"
    (175 cm)?

    Depends. How long are your legs and how long is your torso? I am
    5'9" and all my bikes are 56cm c-t, but I have short legs and a long
    torso. I know folks who are also 5'9" but with long legs and short
    torso, and bikes 58-59cm c-t work best height-wise but the frames
    that tall need shorter top tubes than most current production bikes to
    fit those folks. Another consideration is BB height or BB drop
    (whichever way you prefer to measure); you could fit on a frame with
    a slightly longer seat tube if the BB is low.

    BTW, if the person with the Y-Foil does not remember the size, it is
    engraved on the inside of one of the rear dropouts.

    - rick

  7. firm65 said:

    Make sure you have at least one inch (with your barefeet) of standover
    height!

    That's a good rule, but then again I've been riding a traditional
    level top tube road frame with less than an inch of clearance in my
    shoes. Six years now with no problems.

  8. read rodales road book and their 1000 ways to screw up book.
    the handbook of long distance riding is a read also

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