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Circular or short (3-5 day) segments in the Pyrenees??

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General fitness, health and nutrition
Published
7 January 2005
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9 January 2005
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Catherine
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  1. My husband, who is not an athlete, has expressed an interest in hiking
    in the Pyrenees with me this summer. I am thrilled but want him to
    love the experience so much that this will not be a one-and-only
    experience. (I love walking, hiking, canoeing, cycling trips.) ARe
    there any feasible circular hikes (to minimize logistical problems) or
    A-to-B hikes with good public transportation at each of A and B? And
    here's the kicker: my husband likes his luxuries and while he could
    handle a gite d'etape, if there were a segment that had some more
    luxurious accommodations, that would be great. I'd like to avoid
    mundane scenery and busy roads. Any suggestions for this tall order?

    Many thanks!

  2. Catherine said:

    My husband, who is not an athlete, has expressed an interest in hiking
    in the Pyrenees with me this summer. I am thrilled but want him to
    love the experience so much that this will not be a one-and-only
    experience. (I love walking, hiking, canoeing, cycling trips.) ARe
    there any feasible circular hikes (to minimize logistical problems) or
    A-to-B hikes with good public transportation at each of A and B? And
    here's the kicker: my husband likes his luxuries and while he could
    handle a gite d'etape, if there were a segment that had some more
    luxurious accommodations, that would be great. I'd like to avoid
    mundane scenery and busy roads. Any suggestions for this tall order?

    Maybe a firm specialising in this sort of tour might be worth looking
    into. Exodus springs to mind (http://www.exodus.co.uk/) and they cater
    to a range of clientele including the less than athletic. Also might be
    nice to let someone else worry about the catering etc. on this one so he
    can spend as much possible time thinking it's all rather good.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  3. Catherine said:

    My husband, who is not an athlete, has expressed an interest in hiking
    in the Pyrenees with me this summer. I am thrilled but want him to
    love the experience so much that this will not be a one-and-only
    experience. (I love walking, hiking, canoeing, cycling trips.) ARe
    there any feasible circular hikes (to minimize logistical problems) or
    A-to-B hikes with good public transportation at each of A and B? And
    here's the kicker: my husband likes his luxuries and while he could
    handle a gite d'etape, if there were a segment that had some more
    luxurious accommodations, that would be great. I'd like to avoid
    mundane scenery and busy roads. Any suggestions for this tall order?

    Maybe a firm specialising in this sort of tour might be worth looking
    into. Exodus springs to mind (http://www.exodus.co.uk/) and they cater
    to a range of clientele including the less than athletic. Also might be
    nice to let someone else worry about the catering etc. on this one so he
    can spend as much possible time thinking it's all rather good.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  4. "Catherine" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    My husband, who is not an athlete, has expressed an interest in hiking
    in the Pyrenees with me this summer. I am thrilled but want him to
    love the experience so much that this will not be a one-and-only
    experience. (I love walking, hiking, canoeing, cycling trips.) ARe
    there any feasible circular hikes (to minimize logistical problems) or
    A-to-B hikes with good public transportation at each of A and B? And
    here's the kicker: my husband likes his luxuries and while he could
    handle a gite d'etape, if there were a segment that had some more
    luxurious accommodations, that would be great. I'd like to avoid
    mundane scenery and busy roads. Any suggestions for this tall order?

    Many thanks!

    Where will you be based?

    There is a fine circular walk that can easily be undertaken in a day, that
    takes in fantastic scenery, without being especially difficult: Pic du Midi
    d'Ossau. Starting at the car park at Lac de Bious-Artigues head east on the
    well trodden Trail du Pic d'Midi via the Col du Suzon to the Refuge de
    Pombie. Then Col de Peyreget and down into the Vallee d'Ossau and back to
    the car park (map IGN 1547OT). If you are confident you could climb the Pic
    du Midi, but you'll not have enough time for the circular walk as well as
    the climb.

    Then there's the Breche de Roland (map IGN 1788OT) from the car park at Port
    de Boucharo, depending on the glacier, a wonderful walk in awesome scenery.
    Or maybe Pic d'Anie from Arette la Pierre St-Martin (map IGN 1547OT) a
    straight forward walk in fantastic limestone scenery. None of these walks
    are particularly difficult, but the scenery is awesome.

    I've not been to the Pyrenees for years - I really must go back some time...

    HTH

    Glenn

    Web site: http://www.andromeda-park.demon.co.uk
    Speleo Vercors: http://www.speleo-vercors.org

  5. "Catherine" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    My husband, who is not an athlete, has expressed an interest in hiking
    in the Pyrenees with me this summer.


    <snip>
    Any suggestions for this tall order?

    Quoted message said:

    Many thanks!

    ### It is indeed a tall order. Transport in the Pyrenees is good but a
    little, how to put it, idiosyncratic 🙂 and although it's there, needs
    to be thought about. An alternative (as you say your husband is not
    athletic and doesn't particularly like 'roughing it'😉 would be to make
    somewhere a base and with a hire car go on several daywalks.
    A good little guide for daywalks on the Spanish side is 'Pyrenees 1' by
    Roger Budeler, pub by Rother Walking Guides. I've done most of the walks
    described as part of through backpacks and they're pretty accurate. Kev
    Reynolds in his new book on the Pyrenees pub. by Cicerone does describe
    several 3-5 day walks on both sides of the range, but I suspect you
    would need to at least camp or stay at Refugio's some nights,
    HTH
    Graham

  6. Catherine said:

    My husband, who is not an athlete, has expressed an interest in hiking
    in the Pyrenees with me this summer. I am thrilled but want him to
    love the experience so much that this will not be a one-and-only
    experience. (I love walking, hiking, canoeing, cycling trips.) ARe
    there any feasible circular hikes (to minimize logistical problems) or
    A-to-B hikes with good public transportation at each of A and B? And
    here's the kicker: my husband likes his luxuries and while he could
    handle a gite d'etape, if there were a segment that had some more
    luxurious accommodations, that would be great. I'd like to avoid
    mundane scenery and busy roads. Any suggestions for this tall order?

    Many thanks!

    Nice to get precise enough requirements.

    A few rough ideas which could meet them :

    * the sector of Lescun and west of Somport pass, following GR 11 on the
    Spanish side, passing the border at col de Pau and col du Somport (or
    Ibon de Estaens if time lacks, and if you want to avoid the ugly snow
    resort of Candanchù). Then find your route along vallée d'Aspe (a bit
    narrow) or doing some detours in the neighbouring smaller vales to find
    GR 10 back to Lescun. Public transportation at several villages in the
    bottom of the valley ; certainly more luxurious (and uglier) accmodation
    at Candanchù (or from there you can take a bus to Jaca and enjoy the
    luxury of a small spanish town for the evening and the night).

    * Some circular walk in the mountains north and east of Ax-les-Thermes ;
    there is a good network of GR paths around there. No very precise
    suggestion (indeed this is one of the few places in the French Pyrénées
    I don't know at all) but I know that Orlu valley is supposed to be great.

    * Many stretches of GR 10 (requirement "from A to B"😉 or Spanish GR 11
    (but the Spanish side is less populated, hence public transportation is
    harder to find). I could suggest the stretch of GR 10 around the Ariège
    valley (say from Font-Romeu to Tarascon-sur-Ariège, making your own way
    to meet the path at both ends) -no luxury accomodation on this one. Or
    if you like remoteness, the stretch of GR 11 between Roncesvalles and
    Candanchù (again ! I really was amazed by this part of Aragon last year)
    : it begins with fantastic basque hills arlternating with sometimes
    boring woods ; then you get an incredible landscpape of very lush green
    pastures and impressive cliffs. (And on this one, you'll find hotels at
    Ochagavia and Isaba).

    * If you are not too afraid of crowds, the recommmandation I read above
    about Breche de Roland is very judicious indeed : the
    Cauterets-Gavarnie-Ordesa sector is probably the best, but of course
    attracts many visitors.

  7. On 7 Jan 2005 06:21:54 -0800, [email hidden]

    (Catherine) said:

    My husband, who is not an athlete, has expressed an interest in hiking
    in the Pyrenees with me this summer. I am thrilled but want him to
    love the experience so much that this will not be a one-and-only
    experience. (I love walking, hiking, canoeing, cycling trips.) ARe
    there any feasible circular hikes (to minimize logistical problems) or
    A-to-B hikes with good public transportation at each of A and B? And
    here's the kicker: my husband likes his luxuries and while he could
    handle a gite d'etape, if there were a segment that had some more
    luxurious accommodations, that would be great. I'd like to avoid
    mundane scenery and busy roads. Any suggestions for this tall order?

    Many thanks!

    The problem with the Pyrenees is that most of the valleys run
    North-South and are deep and steep - so if you want to go out of one,
    into the next one, and back again, it's quite testing (but doable;
    plenty of fifty-somethings with bad habits, including me, manage it).
    The topography also means that the road route between two valley
    bottoms can be very long indeed.

    The most spectacular bits are in the central Pyrenees. You could try
    basing yourselves in a Parador or two (Arties and Bielsa come to
    mind), or slightly further East and not quite as plush is the Hotel
    Cardos in Ribera de Cardos. You can do rewarding day hikes from the
    front door of all these, or cheat by accessing higher level start
    points by car to save your husband's legs and lungs.

    An alternative is the hotel in the Nuria complex, further East again,
    which can be reached by rack and pinion train as well as on foot.
    It's just under 2000m, so the train has taken most of the strain, but
    there are still excellent walks up to around 2800m.

    Good, and less strenuous lower-level stuff can be found in the Basque
    country (another Parador, at Hondarribia!), but even here you'll find
    public transport sadly lacking. St Jean Pied de Port makes a good
    base with a choice of mid-range hotels as well as the basic ones, or
    St Etienne de Baigorry, but doubtless someone will be along in a
    minute to tell you more about the French side, where generally the
    public transport is better than on the Spanish side.

    Finally, pick your time carefully. All accommodation is very
    difficult in August, and in many places you'll be too hot to walk
    seriously. Late June is my favourite unless you are constrained by
    school holidays or similar.

    Have fun, and don't forget to come back and tell us about it.

    --
    All the best
    David Millen
    Xativa, Valencia
    www.fincacasablanca.com
    please reply in group
    if you have to email me, remove the obvious:
    [email hidden]

  8. David Millen said:

    An alternative is the hotel in the Nuria complex, further East again,
    which can be reached by rack and pinion train as well as on foot.

    The route over the frontier from Thues-Entre-Valls in the Tet valley
    in France (superb gite d'etape just above the narrow-gauge railway
    station) to Nuria via the Gorges de Caranca is a superb two day trip.
    The excellent path through the gorge climbs to become a corniche trail
    cut into the gorge wall high above the river before joining it and
    continuing alongside the river via ladders, suspension bridges and
    catwalks until opening out into beautiful meadows. There's a good
    refuge (staffed Spring to Autumn, providing refreshments, meals or
    half-board accomodation) here, and the walk up to the frontier ridge
    the next day isn't too strenuous and passes several beautiful glacial
    lochs. From the Col de Caranca it's a short stroll along the ridge
    without much up-and-down to the Coll de Noucreus and a good path down
    the valley to Nuria. The variety of scenery over the two days is huge
    and neither day is particulary long.

    From Nuria you could take the rack-and-pinion railway down through the
    dramatic Gorges de Nuria to Ribes de Freser (or walk it as far as
    Queralbs), from where you can catch a RENFE train north to
    Latour-de-Carol in France and the terminus of the narrow gauge 'Train
    Jaune'. You could then use that to reach Mont Louis, catch the shuttle
    bus up to the Lac des Bouillouses (hotel and hostel accomodation) and
    spend a few days enjoying some day walks around there.

    I spent ten days in this area at the beginning of July, my first visit
    to the Pyrenees, and loved every minute. The Cerdagne has the added
    advantage of being famous for its sunny climate, which made a pleasant
    change from the usual Scottish summer! <g>

    Al
    --
    [This space intentionally left blank]

  9. On Fri, 07 Jan 2005 23:55:20 +0000, Alan Bremner <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    David Millen said:

    An alternative is the hotel in the Nuria complex, further East again,
    which can be reached by rack and pinion train as well as on foot.

    The route over the frontier from Thues-Entre-Valls in the Tet valley
    in France (superb gite d'etape just above the narrow-gauge railway
    station) to Nuria via the Gorges de Caranca is a superb two day trip.
    The excellent path through the gorge climbs to become a corniche trail
    cut into the gorge wall high above the river before joining it and
    continuing alongside the river via ladders, suspension bridges and
    catwalks until opening out into beautiful meadows. There's a good
    refuge (staffed Spring to Autumn, providing refreshments, meals or
    half-board accomodation) here, and the walk up to the frontier ridge
    the next day isn't too strenuous and passes several beautiful glacial
    lochs. From the Col de Caranca it's a short stroll along the ridge
    without much up-and-down to the Coll de Noucreus and a good path down
    the valley to Nuria. The variety of scenery over the two days is huge
    and neither day is particulary long.

    From Nuria you could take the rack-and-pinion railway down through the
    dramatic Gorges de Nuria to Ribes de Freser (or walk it as far as
    Queralbs), from where you can catch a RENFE train north to
    Latour-de-Carol in France and the terminus of the narrow gauge 'Train
    Jaune'. You could then use that to reach Mont Louis, catch the shuttle
    bus up to the Lac des Bouillouses (hotel and hostel accomodation) and
    spend a few days enjoying some day walks around there.

    I spent ten days in this area at the beginning of July, my first visit
    to the Pyrenees, and loved every minute. The Cerdagne has the added
    advantage of being famous for its sunny climate, which made a pleasant
    change from the usual Scottish summer! <g>

    Al


    Excellent plan (I knew someone would plug in the details for the
    French side!). Bouillouses I can endorse whole-heartedly, and Pic
    Carlit (or at least the Tour du Carlit which circles it and is
    well-documented). And of course the P'[censored] Train Jaune connects at
    Villefranche with the main SNCF trains to Perpignan and thence the
    airport. Only reservation from the OP's husband's viewpoint is the
    relative lack of luxury in the accommodation - as far as I know.

    --
    All the best
    David Millen
    Xativa, Valencia
    www.fincacasablanca.com
    please reply in group
    if you have to email me, remove the obvious:
    [email hidden]

  10. [snip]

    Quoted message said:


    Maybe a firm specialising in this sort of tour might be worth looking
    into. Exodus springs to mind (http://www.exodus.co.uk/) and they cater
    to a range of clientele including the less than athletic. Also might be
    nice to let someone else worry about the catering etc. on this one so he
    can spend as much possible time thinking it's all rather good.

    Sherpa Expeditions also cover this area as self-guided (& led trips).
    http://www.sherpa-walking-holidays.co.uk/

    I did the Summits to the Sea last June (2004) and had a jolly good time
    http://www.sherpa-walking-holidays.co.uk/tours/inntoinn/jcsrc.asp
    If, by chance, you pick that holiday/route, let me know as I have some
    additional notes which you might find useful.

    Allan
    (No connection with Sherpa other than as a satisfied guest)

  11. David Millen said:

    Bouillouses I can endorse whole-heartedly, and Pic
    Carlit (or at least the Tour du Carlit which circles it and is
    well-documented).

    We stared and finished the Tour at Portë Puymorens and thoroughly
    enjoyed it. The first night was spent in the hotel at Dorres (actually
    their cheaper annexe) where we got a great welcome and which has a
    wonderful restaurant offering several menus from 14 euros up to 35
    euros. The second night we camped in the woods behind the CAF refuge
    just below the Bouillouses dam, and the final night camped on the
    river flats below the Portella de la Grava, NW of Lac des Bouillouses.

    Quoted message said:

    And of course the P'[censored] Train Jaune connects at Villefranche with the
    main SNCF trains to Perpignan and thence the airport.

    Unless you arrive at the start of a local strike and find your
    carefully-planned journey from Southampton to Thues turns into an
    overnight stranding at Villefranche! Still, I got a freebie up the
    valley on a local bus the next day but I never got my journey on the
    Train Jaune. :-(

    Quoted message said:

    Only reservation from the OP's husband's viewpoint is the
    relative lack of luxury in the accommodation - as far as I know.

    The gite at Thues-Entre-Valls gets a good name, especially the meals
    and the outdoor hot springs. It must be doing something right as it
    was very busy.

    The Ras de la Caranca refuge looked pretty comfortable, with (iirc)
    mattresses on the dorm bunks and showers available. It also has an
    outside cludgy in a shed out the back. We camped further up the valley
    so can't vouch for actual comfort levels. The guardian makes a fine
    expresso though!

    The hotel at Nuria seemed modern and well-appointed, at least from
    looking at the brochure pictures. We camped, and although the basic
    facilities are good the terraced gravel pitches are a nightmare. In
    Ribes de Freser we stayed at the Hostal Porta d Nuria, which offers
    cheap but cheerful en-suite rooms and has an attached bar/restaurant.
    We ate in the Hotel Prats restaurant which is cheaper.

    There's a choice of accomodation at Lac des Bouillouses, from the
    massive Refuge Le Bones Hores above the dam (which is more like a
    hotel) to the CAF-run Refuge des Bouillouses below it on the opposite
    side and the privately-owned Auberge du Carlit just behind this. All
    offer meals and drinks to non-residents, although we only used the bar
    facilities at the CAF refuge as it was nearest to our bivvy site. From
    what we saw of it the refuge is comfortable and has decent facilities
    e.g showers, mattressed bunks and a choice of dorms or rooms. The
    staff were also happy to store our large packs while we made the
    ascent of Pic Carlit before picking them up and carrying on round to
    the Coma de la Grava and another bivvy. Camping is prohibited in the
    area but 'sunset to sunrise' bivvies are allowed. Armed rangers on
    horseback patrol throughout the park and strictly enforce the rules,
    and there are no official campsites in the vicinity of the lake. In
    bad weather all bets are off and you're permitted to get a shelter up
    whatever the time of day.

    At Portë we used the municipal campsite, which although geared very
    much to caravans is cheap and welcoming for tents. There's a large
    clean toilet block with separate areas for washing dishes and clothes,
    and both male and female toilet sections have ample washbasins with
    hot and cold water, and there are free hot showers too. Other
    accomodation in the village is limited to a couple of small hotels as
    the tunnel under the Col de Puymorens has turned Portë into a bit of a
    backwater. However it's a lovely wee village and the inhabitants are
    very friendly and helpful. The outside terrace at the Hotel Michette
    can be recommnded for the evening view down towards the valley, and
    the elderly brother and sister who run it have lived there all their
    lives and are fascinating to chat to.

    Al
    --
    [This space intentionally left blank]

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