Quick-Release Bearing Holder

Looks very good, I would love having a quick release bearing holder. I
hate having to unscrew them to remove the tube or tire. I somehow doubt
that they are as strong as a bearing holder that uses screws, but they
still look nice.

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I bet they'll be plenty strong enough. I will turn Owen and Nate loose
with one and we'll find out.

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TTFN

JR

"Riding uphill on a unicycle sucks", Walt, Nationally-ranked singlespeed
MTB racer
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Very cool!
What's holding the other side of the bearing clamp together? Is it a
hinge? Do you have a reverse angle shot that would show how that part
of the bearing holder is held together?

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Very awesome. It could be very useful if you are in the middle of
nowhere and get a flat/slashed tire and need to change the tube, or have
to walk 10 miles...

I would buy a frame with it.

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Catboy - RIP Unibiker

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Hi John;

Yes, it is a hinged clamp. I'll post a reverse-angle shot after I get
back from my ride. I'll also put together a parts list.

--
Jim_Rob - Old Man

TTFN

JR

"Riding uphill on a unicycle sucks", Walt, Nationally-ranked singlespeed
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Finally!! someone finally made quick-release bearing holders!
Andrew and myself were discussing this awhile back and it just seemed
like such a good idea!

GREAT JOB!

ps: there's another unicyclist called Owen??? that makes me not so
special anymore...i am saddened by this:p

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Murde Mental - Unicycling Martyr

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Nice work on the bearing holder a simple and staight foward design.
Looks plenty strong enough considering all the other things that are
held together with quick releases.
Are there any problems with it squeezing the bearing race to tightly?
Cheers Dave

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I'm not sure about squeezing the bearing race because I haven't built
the frame yet, but I doubt it will be a problem, the lever has a barrel
nut in it, so the 10-32 bolt can be adjusted so that the fit is just
right.

The parts list;

1. Hinged Shaft Collar; part no. 57145K83, McMaster-Carr,
www/mcmaster.com, $12.54

2. Rocky Mountain QR Seat Collar; Cambria Bikes,
www.cambriabike.com $5.95

3. 10-32 Stainless Steel Socket-head bolt. 1-3/4”, scrounged this, but
probably $0.39

4. 3/8” OD Aluminum rod, drilled out to 10-32 clearance, scrounged.

So, I was wrong, they cost about $19 ea.

I chose that particular seat collar because it has a barrel nut. This
allows complete adjustability.

Here is the reverse view, the hinge on the collar is really neat because
it allows the collar to open all the way up, making the machining a lot
easier.

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Jim_Rob - Old Man

TTFN

JR

"Riding uphill on a unicycle sucks", Walt, Nationally-ranked singlespeed
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That's a very good idea and from the looks of it, I think it should work
well. What type of uni are you going to use it on? Are you able to
adjust the tension without tools? Can't wait to hear how well they
work.

--
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Ah, you've hit on my next project. I am building a Beast 29er. It will
have a Profile Hub with 190mm cranks (danscomp.com) and a new KH29XC rim
with a ExiWolf 2.3 tire. We will then build a 4130 frame and include the
bearing holders. I will let everyone know how it works out, and you'll
be able to see the real thing at Moab.

The holder can be taken apart and the tension adjusted without tools
because the bolt screws into the barrel nut (in the center of the cam).
so, it is truly a quick release in that sense.

--
Jim_Rob - Old Man

TTFN

JR

"Riding uphill on a unicycle sucks", Walt, Nationally-ranked singlespeed
MTB racer
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I absolutely love it! As Owen said, we have been waiting for this to be
made for some time now. This is very exciting. I haven't yet had my
new muni frame made...are you selling these things?

190mm cranks?? Have you ridden with that length before? Do you have
ridiculously long legs?

Thanks for showing us all those beautiful bearing holders. I'm amazed
that all the parts were available for purchase and didn't have to be
made specifically.

WOW!

Andrew

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nice work on the bearing holders!

also, to echo andrew carter WTF! 190mm cranks? i'm 6'4 and run 180mm on
my mountain bike and 175mm on my touring bike. 190 ona 29er is crazy.
i'd vote 150s or shorter. maybe 160s more muni.

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Nice work. I have given thought to quick releases myself but just
haven't had the time to devote to it. I am the guy that put the disk
brake on a KH 24. Since I put new bearing holders on I thought about it
but in the end time ran out. It still may be a future project but since
I just had it painted it will have to wait.

I do have one suggestion. You may want to have something secure the
lever from releasing. Since it releasing down and it could unclamp or
even catch on something and release. Just a thought.

Wayne.

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Thanks to everyone for all the nice feedback.

Right now I don't have any plans to sell them. I'm trying to convince my
friend Walt (waltworks.com) to make unicycle frames for sale, but he
seems to be stuck on those two-wheel contraptions. Also, I want to test
these out to see how they work. Then I'll know if there is a problem
with the level hitting something and popping open. I suspect not, take a
look at the bottom bearing holder onyour Muni frame and see if there are
any scratches, I've never hit mine on anything. I'll keep everyone
posted on how it works and availability. Maybe I'll open up a sweat shop
with Owen and Nate (they're 14) - just kidding.

Yes I do have rediculously long legs, but not as long as George Barnes'
who is the tallest unicyclist I've met so far. My main Muni has been a
26" with 175s and it has worked really well for me, except that the hub
is almost broken (Nate bent it doing a 6' drop). I have a 29er that I
built with a UDC hub and it also has 175s (150s when I was commuting on
it). I have been riding the 29er with 175s on trails and I like it
because it goes faster (I'm a low rev guy, was when I rode bikes too). I
don't feel I have as much control or torque as I would like, or had with
the 26/175. 29/190 is nearly the same ratio as 26/175 if you measure the
actual tire diameters, so when the KH29XC rim came out I decide to take
my Christmas money and go for it. I'll let everyone know how it turns
out, and if you are at Moab this year you can ride it.

--
Jim_Rob - Old Man

TTFN

JR

"Riding uphill on a unicycle sucks", Walt, Nationally-ranked singlespeed
MTB racer
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shabby said:

*

I do have one suggestion. You may want to have something secure the
lever from releasing. Since it releasing down and it could unclamp or
even catch on something and release. Just a thought.
*

If the hinge is forward facing there shouldn't be a problem, most things
that might catch the lever would slide off. The idea looks great, I just
need to find a UK supplier of hinged shaft collars...

Jim_Rob - Boulder must be a fantastic place to ride, it is one of the
places I would love to takes some Uni's to, I had a business trip there
a few years ago.

Keith

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Hi Keg;

I'll bet McMaster-Carr would ship to the old country. Yes, Boulder is a
great place to ride, but all the trails just to the west of town along
the Flatirons are closed to "wheel conveyances", yes that means
strollers too, so you have to travel a bit to get into the bike trails.
But sure to drop us a line if you make it back out here.

--
Jim_Rob - Old Man

TTFN

JR

"Riding uphill on a unicycle sucks", Walt, Nationally-ranked singlespeed
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That looks excellent. I haven't read all the posts in the thread, but I
did see that those are stock parts. That just looks like a 2 bolt clamp
with a hinge on one side and a quick release on the other. I love how
you kept it to stock, easy to acquire parts. I wanted to do something
like that on my trials frame, but nix'd it when I noticed how hard it'd
be to make a good version.

That will be creat for commuter wheels and strictly muni wheels, but no
good for trials or urban 24's. A bad pedalgrab will shatter the quick
release. Maybe if it could be oriented in another direction...

--
gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

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It sounds like a great idea for switching between Muni and commuter
unis. however gerbel brings up a good point. How durable is the dwick
rease? Is there a way to make the design more streamline, so if ou did
to some grabbing or abuted the QR it wouldnt break...

A metal casing could be placed around the quick release so it would be
protected from grinds/slides/abuse but still easily accessable.
My Sloppy Idea(MS paint is fun):

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Good idea Catboy. I think the best solution would be to machine a slot
in the bottom part of the collar and fabricate a level that would fit
into it. That way the body of the collar would protect the level and
mechanism.

--
Jim_Rob - Old Man

TTFN

JR

"Riding uphill on a unicycle sucks", Walt, Nationally-ranked singlespeed
MTB racer
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