Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

What tools to extract/install Surly hub cartridge bearings?

Started by Ron Abramson · · Last activity · 7 posts · 496 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
4 February 2005
Last activity
5 February 2005
Original author
Ron Abramson
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7
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  1. Surly "New" (2002) hubs use 7901 12x24x6 mm cartridge bearings. I see
    that spares are easily purchased. Do these require special puller and
    installation tools?

  2. Ron Abramson said:

    Surly "New" (2002) hubs use 7901 12x24x6 mm cartridge bearings. I


    see

    Quoted message said:

    that spares are easily purchased. Do these require special puller


    and

    Quoted message said:

    installation tools?

    Nope. Like most cartridge bearing hubs, you get the old ones out by
    removing any locknuts and, while holding onto the wheel, whacking
    either side of the axle against a wooden bench (or a block of wood
    placed on the floor). Sometimes you gotta whack pretty hard. This
    will pop one bearing out. Put the axle through the remaining bearing
    and whack that one out. Install the new ones by lining up the new
    bearing with the hub, place one of the old bearings on top of it, and
    whack it in place with a rubber mallet. You can buy bearing pullers
    and presses, but there's no advantage to using them with Surly hubs.
    Check that the bearings have grease inside them (peel back the rubber
    seal with something pointy); one of my Surly hubs came with very little
    grease inside. Coat the new cartridges in grease to ease installation
    and prevent them from corroding onto anything.

    -Vee

  3. I forgot a detail of installation: you need to put the axle through the
    hub once you've installed one bearing and then use a socket of
    appropriate diameter to drive the second bearing into the hub.

  4. Vee said:

    I forgot a detail of installation: you need to put the axle through the
    hub once you've installed one bearing and then use a socket of
    appropriate diameter to drive the second bearing into the hub.

    If I am understanding you correctly, I'd say my axles work differently -
    the bearings are locked in place by sleeves that screw onto the axle from
    the outside. Take one off and the axle slides out completely. I guess
    this is why they're considered "adjustable." You could use the end of the
    axle like a punch, to poke out the bearings from the inside. Since my
    bearings still have some life to them I think I'll wait before doing this.

  5. Ron Abramson said:
    Vee said:

    I forgot a detail of installation: you need to put the axle through


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    hub once you've installed one bearing and then use a socket of
    appropriate diameter to drive the second bearing into the hub.

    If I am understanding you correctly, I'd say my axles work


    differently -

    Quoted message said:

    the bearings are locked in place by sleeves that screw onto the axle


    from

    Quoted message said:

    the outside. Take one off and the axle slides out completely. I


    guess

    Quoted message said:

    this is why they're considered "adjustable." You could use the end


    of the

    Quoted message said:

    axle like a punch, to poke out the bearings from the inside. Since my
    bearings still have some life to them I think I'll wait before doing


    this.

    You're right, I was thinking about the older style Surly hub, where the
    axle had raised sections that popped the bearings out when hit from the
    side. With the newer ones, it can be a bit harder to remove the
    bearings. Punching them out can cause the inner race to break free,
    leaving the outer portion in the hub (which can also be removed with a
    punch or chisel, but it's a pain). There are tools made for this:
    http://www.ison-distribution.com/ison/english/product.php?part=2CV28
    but they'll sometimes break apart a corroded bearing, too, so I think a
    punch (or axle, if you don't damage the threads) is as good as
    anything. Reinstalling the new bearings is very easy because you can
    use the old bearings (or appropriate socket) on both sides without the
    axle getting in the way.
    -Vee

  6. It occurred to me that you could put the sleeve on backwards and use it as
    a removal tool. So I gave it a try and it worked great. As I suspected,
    the drive side bearing was caked with rust.

  7. Quoted message said:
    Vee said:

    I forgot a detail of installation: you need to put the axle through the
    hub once you've installed one bearing and then use a socket of
    appropriate diameter to drive the second bearing into the hub.

    Ron Abramson said:

    If I am understanding you correctly, I'd say my axles work differently -
    the bearings are locked in place by sleeves that screw onto the axle from
    the outside. Take one off and the axle slides out completely. I guess
    this is why they're considered "adjustable." You could use the end of the
    axle like a punch, to poke out the bearings from the inside. Since my
    bearings still have some life to them I think I'll wait before doing this.

    This works well:
    http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/HUBCUPTL.JPG

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

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