HELP! buying new road bike and need help

That bike looks OK; have you had a test ride? What price?

yeah. it rides fantasic and will set me back about$2000. seems to be good quality and components. but don't have much experience with road bikes and don't know what to really look for. I would like to compare it to another brand at least to get an Idea on a comparison. which other brands sould be looked at?

Please please please give me a hand here. I don't want to blow my bucks on something that may not be what I want. I will give a little more info on my background.
I rode a MTB for about 10 years. until the end of my schooling. I would ride to and back every day from home which was about a 26km ride. I didn't realise how fit i was at the time but i would hardly break a sweat. Road bikes were'nt "cool" so I had what everyone else had🙁 . even though I only really rode on the road.
Now I have a hunger to get back on a bike and I know I will go hard but there are all these different types of bike and configurations it's hard to 'really' know what to lean towards.😕

it's about a 15-17km ride to work. I plan to start out doing this ride once or twice a week and move on from there. I'd love to do some more distance rides and go fast, not just dribble along so thats why I'm lookng at a decent one.
curved forks or straight?
carbon forks? carbon rear? all carbon?
18, 20, 27 speed?
compact or wHaT😕 ???

these things make sense to me but don't really mean anything to me. what type of bike am I looking at?

I fully appreciate any guidance anyone can give me.

Thanx

Benno.

With Sydney a tripple would be wise, buddies ride cannondale and for quality and design hard to beat, hand made in USA not by robot.
http://www.bikenow.com.au/bikes/bikes2005/cannondale/r700.htm is $2500 for the double or tripple the 500 series is $2000 and could always upgrade latter for grouppo bits if required.
Having said that the fit is everything if the size is off its not as much fun and power and comfort will be lost. Read up on measurements to which frame size will suit you, take your time dont get rushed to buy. With the free trade USA gear may get cheaper. Enjoy the ride.

Thanx Cycleski. It does look good and compares well.

I will give it a ride soon and let you know how it goes.

Benno

The fit and the feel of the bike are the most important aspects.
Most road bikes have carbon forks these days.
A full carbon bike is an unnecessary expense (but i'd love to have one!)
Carbon rear triangle is all the rage at present, but a full alloy frame is neither heavier nor necessarily less comfortable. You could even try a steel bike!
Compact vs traditional frame geometry really depends on the individual: try both. I'm 193 cm so I found a traditional frame that fitted me far too big and gawky looking; my compact frame bike looks neater, I think, and rides sweetly.
When you've a shortlist, look around for sale stock. Don't pay the standard retail price if you can help it.
105 groupset is perfectly fine, but don't go to a lesser groupset unless your budget is very tight.
I ride a double crankset in Sydney (53/39, 12-25) but my next bike will probably be a triple. It all depends on how happy you are to climb hills out of the saddle. My next cluster will be a 12-27 (swap out to one of these before you take a double crankset bike out of the shop).
10-speed cluster groupsets are not worth the expense at present. Wait a few years for these.
A lot of bikes have Shimano wheelsets (R540,R550). A majority of people think these to be underwhelming in strength; read about your wheels before buying (try this forum).

Another thought as an interim step at a low cost look at link - for $600, ride for a year then sell and at that price unlikely to loose much if any dough. When fitness is up and sure you want to continue buy a higher std bike and you will have a better idea what you want or need by then 10 speed likely to be the norm and costs lower. Forecast only of course but not manny items seem to go up $ any more with free trade and technology improvments.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=7298&item=7130626757&rd=1

We are selling a Progear RX 400 Aluminium frame road bike - available in 50, 53, 56 & 59cm frames

Features are:

• FRAME: Aluminium 7005
  
• FRAME SIZE: 50, 53, 56, 59
  
• FORK: Straight Blade
  
• HANDLE BAR: 7005 Alloy
  
• HEAD STEM: Intergrated Alloy
  
• BOTTOM BRACKET: Shimano Sora
  
• SEAT PILLAR: Alloy Micro
  
• STI SHIFTER: Shimano Sora 16 speed
  
• DERAILUER: Shimano Sora 8 Speed
  
• CRANK SET: Shimano Sora double 39 / 52 T
  
• CASSETTE: Shimano Sora HG-50 8 Speed
  
• CHAIN: Shimano HG-50 12-25T
  
• BRAKE CALIPER: Shimano Sora
  
• HUB: Alloy Sealed Cassette
  
• RIM: Double Wall Machined
  
• TYRES: Cheng Shin 700C x 23C
  
• COLOURS AVAILABLE: Blue/Black or Silver
  

Benno said:

Hi.
I'm Ben from Sydney Aust and I would love any help anyone can give me on helping me decide on what bike to buy.
I'm going to be commuting to and from work some days and would love to do some pack riding and some social rides. I was used to long rides about 8 years ago but have fallen a bit out of shape - hence the return to cycling.

I have Been looking at the Giant OCR zero. it seems to have a good overall match for what I want being a comfort road bike but also being a pretty fast one.
I'd love any feedback on this and other bikes in comparison.

Cheers

Benno

I'm in the market for a frame at the same price and I've done lots of research. The OCR Zero is a standout this year, being the cheapest 105 biek with a carbon rear triangle. The only comment I would make is that it isn't full Shimano components. The cranks and other parts are Truvativ. This may or may not be a big thing for you.

Other bikes to consider
- Trek 1400. Alu with carbon fork, but full Shimano - $1999
- Lemond Tourmalet. Similar to Trek 1400 - $1999
- Gitane Mach 2200. Carbon rear and Ultegra 9spd for $2269

Thanx Heaps everyone!
this has given me much to think about.
I will continue my research and consider the interim bike. it may not be as good as what I 'can' get but it is a very valid point. and ;no. having all shimano components does not mean anything to me. but I will assume that shimano is all quality.

Benno

Hello Benno,
As a general rule, Shimano bits are good quality and will last and do what they're meant to do. Other bits are often as good, or better, but you 'can't go wrong with Shimano' mostly holds true. Bits that matter are things like the shifters (brake levers and hoods) and the front and rear deralieurs (I can never spell that 🙂). What's been suggested before remains true, testride everything you can. Try and get at least a 30 minute testride, and be prepared to swap seats a number of times. If you go to a good LBS (local bike shop) they'll let you swap seats, set the bike up for you etc, if they won't, go to another shop that will. You will develop a relationship with a good LBS that's worth having, so it's not worth putting up with bad service or misleading salespeople. Additionally, *never* pay retail. Every LBS will move on price. If they won't, see above re seats etc. at least 10% off their marked price is normal. They know you'll be back, so they won't sting you for price. Unlike the chain stores ....

FWIW, I have a 2002 Trek 1400 with mostly Shimano 105 bits (originally, most of the bits have worn out and been upgraded to DA or Ultegra), but the shifters are still good!) that's done 45,000km, and I'm heavy, and it's had no non-routine mishaps (ie: no bits have failed that wouldn't be expected to wear out). So Trek make a damn good frame. Pay no attention to the "made in <country>" stuff, a bored factory worker is no different in Taiwan or Wisconssin. I don't like compact frames because it's too hard to get your second bidon in and out, and long seatposts are, I think, more likely to break than short ones. I don't *ever* want to break a seatpost. That said, any roady around $2k-$3k will be a good bike and will do many miles of good service. Also, as a general principle, get the best frame you can for your money. Ie: if you have $2k and you can get an Ultegra equipt raceline or a 105 equipt cannondale or trek, get the bike with the 105. You'll replace the components over time, the frame, on the other hand, you're stuck with, so it's worth getting a better frame rather than a crappy frame with good bits.

Have fun treating your case of new bike fever, it's loads of fun!

thnx Bleve.

good info. you put a smile on my face on an otherwise 'joyless' day.

Cheers

Benno:o

Everything that these guys have said is spot on. One thing that I would add however is you cannot underestimate the importance of proper 'bike fit'. test riding is one thing but actually having all your limbs measured up, your flexibility etc and having a set of data that allows you to calculate exactly what size frame etc etc is critical. I dont mean a computer program either I mean going back to basics with the string, marker pen, plumb bob etc. Since I had this done and my bike was adjusted my comfort on the bike is exellent and I can ride further, sprint better, etc with no pain. 🙂