Uneven sealant distribution can leave a leak unresolved. Wheel position, leak location, casing condition and observation method can all matter in that situation. That is enough reason to inspect the leak before deciding that more gear is the answer. The useful order is the checks, not a shopping list of sealants or parts. It seems easy to mistake activity for a useful diagnosis when the leak itself has not been watched in a consistent way.
I’d keep the check tied to what the leak is doing, rather than changing things at random and then guessing what helped. When you find a leak that persists, what do you actually observe or change first to work out whether wheel position, leak location or casing condition is relevant?
When you find a leak that persists, what do you actually observe or change first to work out whether wheel position, leak location or casing condition is relevant?
I’d start by drying the tyre, reinflating to the same pressure, then rotating it slowly and marking where bubbles appear. Put that spot at the bottom and hold it there so sealant can reach it. If it stops, position mattered; if it keeps bubbling, check whether it’s the tread, sidewall, bead or valve before changing anything else.
That shows sealant reached the hole in that orientation, not why it wasn’t sealing before. I’d rotate it out of the sealant pool and see whether the same spot starts bubbling again; otherwise you’ve tested whether it can seal, not diagnosed the original leak.
