I like to watch

Joshua Lee said:

Peter,

Nicely done. How much for a Veccio's sticker and the left carbon blade? I'd
be happy to promote your shop, even though I'm what 2500 miles away.

Josh

"Qui Si Parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:1110289906.1044b0f4fc45f1efcbc27a5d33f82db7@teranews...

Quoted message said:

Neil Brooks said:

Response from LBS:

"Call me Wednesday morning. We'll work out the details on timing."

One of the good guys....

I've got this funny taste -- kinda' like titanium -- in the back of my
throat....

...

Side note: I can't believe Ti bottle cages are $50 each.

Painful epiphany: I really can't believe I'm going with them.

If yer gettinmg a MOOTS/Campagnolo, why not? Each time you ride next to
somebody with ti cages you'll ask yerself, "why didn't I get them?"

I have a ti moots as well, a fixie, I just got it,

http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2005/feb/chisholm.htm

I do love it and yes, it does hi King ti cages.

Send a SASE to the below address and I'll send ya some stickers. The
left blade is $60

Vecchio's
1833 pearl ST
Republic of Boulder
80302

Quoted message said:

What cranks?

Record lever with the shifting innards removed?

What fork? Looks like PlanetX or something.

First gen Record carbon, Record brake levers(non ERGO) with the left
blade removed. Wound-up Cross fork

Quoted message said:

Today I performed a wheel true that had been written up as minor... it was
definitely not minor. The wheel was off by about an inch on each side
from nominal. Although slamming wheels on the ground to get them back
straight doesn't sound like a good idea, it has worked wonders in the
past. With some moderate slamming today, I was able to get this wheel to
within 2mm before even turning a spoke wrench. Lateral true was perfect,
and radial hop was at most, 1mm, and only in one spot.

Phil: There's a better way to fix a wheel that's been bent like that. I've
got an ancient Hozan truing stand that sits on the ground and is very, very
solid. Sit on a low chair, move the wheel so that the part above the truing
stand is towards you (the bent part of the rim), grasp the sides of the rim
with your hands and put your foot into it (at the point where it's bent
closest to you). You can get amazing results this way. Don't try it on
something worthwhile the first time or two; use a couple wheels dug out of
the dumpster. By applying different amounts of pressure and moving your
hands closer or further away from your foot, you can achieve a rather
incredible degree of accuracy... so much so that, in some cases, you barely
have to touch a spoke.

Always keep in mind that you cannot properly/permanently repair a bent rim
by simply changing spoke tension. If the rim is bent (meaning that, if there
was no spoke tension at all, it wouldn't be straight), you're going to end
up with a severely mis-tensioned, if straight, rim.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Andrew: I think this depends entirely upon the type of personalities
employed, as well as that of the owners. I have no problem performing
minor miracles in front of a customer, but no way do I feel
comfortable doing frame alignments or even some of the more dramatic
wheel truings when someone looking over my shoulder. It's just me. I
don't even like hearing loud noises coming from the shop area. Things
that you & I know are normal may not appear so to the customer.

I agree. I am on the side that wants customers out in the showroom.

Today I performed a wheel true that had been written up as minor... it was
definitely not minor. The wheel was off by about an inch on each side
from nominal. Although slamming wheels on the ground to get them back
straight doesn't sound like a good idea, it has worked wonders in the
past. With some moderate slamming today, I was able to get this wheel to
within 2mm before even turning a spoke wrench. Lateral true was perfect,
and radial hop was at most, 1mm, and only in one spot.

If the customer were there, there is no way I would have done it, unless I
went out in the back behind the shop, where there isn't a non-marring
surface against which to slam the wheel. So instead of going and telling
the customer that they needed a new rear wheel (we don't do rim swaps
unless the customer asks because it takes too long), we save them ~$70 and
fix it with brute force, which I know many of us can agree won't have a
measureable detrimental effect on the overall longevity of the wheel.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Qui Si Parla Campagnolo said:

Mark Vieselmeyer said:

Qui Si Parla Campagnolo <[email hidden]> wrote:

: http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2005/feb/chisholm.htm

I'm having some trouble figuring out that cable hanger...

- Mark

It's not a cable hanget, it's a teeny bell. I ride on the Boulder Creek
path a lot.

Dear Peter,

At last I have the inspiration for an invention that will
make me wealthy!

I note that the left handlebar lever on your fixie is
naturally idle.

What fixie riders are crying out for (but may not realize
until the marketing campaign kicks in) is a replacement kit
or whole assembly that puts a bell inside a brake housing so
that they can really ting-a-ling at pedestrians with a
convenient squeeze.

After all, shifters were moved to the brake lever for
convenience.

You take care of the trifling mechanical details, and we'll
split the proceeds 50-50.

Carl Fogel

Quoted message said:

Dear Peter,

At last I have the inspiration for an invention that will
make me wealthy!

I note that the left handlebar lever on your fixie is
naturally idle.

What fixie riders are crying out for (but may not realize
until the marketing campaign kicks in) is a replacement kit
or whole assembly that puts a bell inside a brake housing so
that they can really ting-a-ling at pedestrians with a
convenient squeeze.

After all, shifters were moved to the brake lever for
convenience.

You take care of the trifling mechanical details, and we'll
split the proceeds 50-50.

Carl,

I'm sure you were joking, but that's a really cool idea!

Unfortunately I'm workshop-less these days.

Matt O.

Matt O'Toole said:

Quoted message said:

Dear Peter,

At last I have the inspiration for an invention that will
make me wealthy!

I note that the left handlebar lever on your fixie is
naturally idle.

What fixie riders are crying out for (but may not realize
until the marketing campaign kicks in) is a replacement kit
or whole assembly that puts a bell inside a brake housing so
that they can really ting-a-ling at pedestrians with a
convenient squeeze.

After all, shifters were moved to the brake lever for
convenience.

You take care of the trifling mechanical details, and we'll
split the proceeds 50-50.

Carl,

I'm sure you were joking, but that's a really cool idea!

Unfortunately I'm workshop-less these days.

Matt O.

Dear Matt,

Possibly a cha-ching like a cash register instead of a
ting-a-ling would be the moral equivalent of selling eviaN
water?

I figure that there must be a market must be at least a
thousand units nationwide.

Of course, true bicycle-mechanic fixie-fiends may figure out
for themselves how to replace the guts of their useless
lever with the guts of a bell.

I anticipate future wars in which one group defends the
traditional ratcheting metal bell and the other prefers an
electronic imitation.

P.T. Fogel

Quoted message said:

I anticipate future wars in which one group defends the
traditional ratcheting metal bell and the other prefers an
electronic imitation.

Of course -- the electronic one will let the user
download ring tones.

Larry Coon
University of California

Jay Beattie said:

For the kind of money you are spending, they should let you watch
and feed you, too. BTW, assuming that the frame is faced and
chased (which it should be), assembly is basically plug-n-play.
Be prepared to be mighty bored. Also, I assume this is all free
assembly. If not, have them install the headset and fork and
then do the rest yourself. Tools are a good investment, and you
will need them in the future anyway. -- Jay Beattie.

I have an amazing tolerance for boredom. Really uncanny!

The LBS did include the build with the price of the bike, so I'm going
to let the guy who (presumably) has built many of them build mine,
while I wait for the opportunity to do /my/ first build for somebody
else's bike ;-)

The morning went well, except for the sales guy telling me that they
had ordered the wrong front der for the Moots's seat tube. Bike
sleeps in shop overnight :-\

They also put 60mm prestas on my Campy Eurus wheels (that literally
cried out for 48mm valves), apparently because they were out of the
48's. I stopped for 48s on my way home and will supply them to ye
olde LBS tomorrow.

All that's left to mount is the front der, the chain, the computer,
the titanium cages (you were right, Peter), and the pedals. The rest
of the bike is a thing of beauty. When it's done--and when Yahoo
figures out why my website took a dump, I'll post my first-ever bike
[censored]....if I ever come home :-)

And as for the payola hootch that I mentioned: it turns out, the
wrenches are quite fond of Corona. Staved off personal bankruptcy yet
another day!

So that gives me one full day of riding . . . before I ride my brand
new bike on a century. Let's hope it fits . . . and that a pair of
Hungarian-made Assos bibs (Lickton's - $90) are as comfortable as
people say they are.

Thanks, as always, for everybody's help and feedback!

Larry Coon said:

Quoted message said:

I anticipate future wars in which one group defends the
traditional ratcheting metal bell and the other prefers an
electronic imitation.

Of course -- the electronic one will let the user
download ring tones.

Larry Coon
University of California

Dear Larry,

Preferably a klaxon.

Carl Fogel

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Quoted message said:

Today I performed a wheel true that had been written up as minor...
it was definitely not minor. The wheel was off by about an inch on
each side from nominal. Although slamming wheels on the ground to
get them back straight doesn't sound like a good idea, it has worked
wonders in the past. With some moderate slamming today, I was able
to get this wheel to within 2mm before even turning a spoke wrench.
Lateral true was perfect, and radial hop was at most, 1mm, and only
in one spot.

Phil: There's a better way to fix a wheel that's been bent like that.
I've got an ancient Hozan truing stand that sits on the ground and is
very, very solid. Sit on a low chair, move the wheel so that the part
above the truing stand is towards you (the bent part of the rim),
grasp the sides of the rim with your hands and put your foot into it
(at the point where it's bent closest to you). You can get amazing
results this way. Don't try it on something worthwhile the first time
or two; use a couple wheels dug out of the dumpster. By applying
different amounts of pressure and moving your hands closer or further
away from your foot, you can achieve a rather incredible degree of
accuracy... so much so that, in some cases, you barely have to touch
a spoke.

Interesting idea, as this does not rely on body weight to implement.
However, doesn't this technique imply that the Hozan locks the axles to the
stand? We only have a set-in waist-height Park stand at work.

Quoted message said:

Always keep in mind that you cannot properly/permanently repair a
bent rim by simply changing spoke tension. If the rim is bent
(meaning that, if there was no spoke tension at all, it wouldn't be
straight), you're going to end up with a severely mis-tensioned, if
straight, rim.

If it were easy to do so (i.e. fast), I would detension the wheel, and then
use the calmer manual techniques to get the wheel back in shape, since the
spokes are no longer holding lateral "shape."

Another reason why I don't do this to wheels other than OEM or walmart
wheels, where the customer just wants to ride the thing at $0, with
longevity a distant second concern. Last-ditch efforts to appease the
thrifty customers... or more correctly, prevent them from buying at Walmart.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Phil: There's a better way to fix a wheel that's been bent like that.
I've got an ancient Hozan truing stand that sits on the ground and is
very, very solid. Sit on a low chair, move the wheel so that the part
above the truing stand is towards you (the bent part of the rim),
grasp the sides of the rim with your hands and put your foot into it
(at the point where it's bent closest to you). You can get amazing
results this way. Don't try it on something worthwhile the first time
or two; use a couple wheels dug out of the dumpster. By applying
different amounts of pressure and moving your hands closer or further
away from your foot, you can achieve a rather incredible degree of
accuracy... so much so that, in some cases, you barely have to touch
a spoke.

Interesting idea, as this does not rely on body weight to implement.
However, doesn't this technique imply that the Hozan locks the axles to
the stand? We only have a set-in waist-height Park stand at work.

Phil: The Hozan truing stand clamps down on the outside of the axle; you
need to remove the quick release in order to use it. It's quite solid. Also
quite crude and heavy! But it gets the job done, since I first met it back
in, what, 1973? Once in a while the shop guys hide it from me (I'm the only
person who uses it; the rest of them are hung up on fancier stuff and cringe
at the idea of bench-pressing with a wheel).

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA
"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Quoted message said:

Today I performed a wheel true that had been written up as minor...
it was definitely not minor. The wheel was off by about an inch on
each side from nominal. Although slamming wheels on the ground to
get them back straight doesn't sound like a good idea, it has worked
wonders in the past. With some moderate slamming today, I was able
to get this wheel to within 2mm before even turning a spoke wrench.
Lateral true was perfect, and radial hop was at most, 1mm, and only
in one spot.

Phil: There's a better way to fix a wheel that's been bent like that.
I've got an ancient Hozan truing stand that sits on the ground and is
very, very solid. Sit on a low chair, move the wheel so that the part
above the truing stand is towards you (the bent part of the rim),
grasp the sides of the rim with your hands and put your foot into it
(at the point where it's bent closest to you). You can get amazing
results this way. Don't try it on something worthwhile the first time
or two; use a couple wheels dug out of the dumpster. By applying
different amounts of pressure and moving your hands closer or further
away from your foot, you can achieve a rather incredible degree of
accuracy... so much so that, in some cases, you barely have to touch
a spoke.

Interesting idea, as this does not rely on body weight to implement.
However, doesn't this technique imply that the Hozan locks the axles to
the stand? We only have a set-in waist-height Park stand at work.

Quoted message said:

Always keep in mind that you cannot properly/permanently repair a
bent rim by simply changing spoke tension. If the rim is bent
(meaning that, if there was no spoke tension at all, it wouldn't be
straight), you're going to end up with a severely mis-tensioned, if
straight, rim.

If it were easy to do so (i.e. fast), I would detension the wheel, and
then use the calmer manual techniques to get the wheel back in shape,
since the spokes are no longer holding lateral "shape."

Another reason why I don't do this to wheels other than OEM or walmart
wheels, where the customer just wants to ride the thing at $0, with
longevity a distant second concern. Last-ditch efforts to appease the
thrifty customers... or more correctly, prevent them from buying at
Walmart.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

"Neil Brooks" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Jay Beattie said:

For the kind of money you are spending, they should let you

watch

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

and feed you, too. BTW, assuming that the frame is faced and
chased (which it should be), assembly is basically

plug-n-play.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Be prepared to be mighty bored. Also, I assume this is all

free

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

assembly. If not, have them install the headset and fork and
then do the rest yourself. Tools are a good investment, and

you

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

will need them in the future anyway. -- Jay Beattie.

I have an amazing tolerance for boredom. Really uncanny!

The LBS did include the build with the price of the bike, so

I'm going

Quoted message said:

to let the guy who (presumably) has built many of them build

mine,

Quoted message said:

while I wait for the opportunity to do /my/ first build for

somebody

Quoted message said:

else's bike ;-)

The morning went well, except for the sales guy telling me that

they

Quoted message said:

had ordered the wrong front der for the Moots's seat tube.

Bike

Quoted message said:

sleeps in shop overnight :-\

They also put 60mm prestas on my Campy Eurus wheels (that

literally

Quoted message said:

cried out for 48mm valves), apparently because they were out of

the

Quoted message said:

48's. I stopped for 48s on my way home and will supply them to

ye

Quoted message said:

olde LBS tomorrow.

All that's left to mount is the front der, the chain, the

computer,

Quoted message said:

the titanium cages (you were right, Peter), and the pedals.

The rest

Quoted message said:

of the bike is a thing of beauty. When it's done--and when

Yahoo

Quoted message said:

figures out why my website took a dump, I'll post my first-ever

bike

Quoted message said:

[censored]....if I ever come home :-)

And as for the payola hootch that I mentioned: it turns out,

the

Quoted message said:

wrenches are quite fond of Corona. Staved off personal

bankruptcy yet

Quoted message said:

another day!

So that gives me one full day of riding . . . before I ride my

brand

Quoted message said:

new bike on a century. Let's hope it fits . . . and that a

pair of

Quoted message said:

Hungarian-made Assos bibs (Lickton's - $90) are as comfortable

as

Quoted message said:

people say they are.

Thanks, as always, for everybody's help and feedback!

Congratulations. But here is an important tip: do not wear an
untested pair of shorts on a century. No matter how smooth your
new ride maybe, it cannot fix a bad pair of shorts. -- Jay
Beattie.

Jay Beattie said:

Congratulations. But here is an important tip: do not wear an
untested pair of shorts on a century. No matter how smooth your
new ride maybe, it cannot fix a bad pair of shorts. -- Jay
Beattie.

Excellent point. I'll go with tried-and-true and test fire the Assos
next week.

My anatomy thanks you, Jay.

The repair station at Millenium Park in Chicago -

http://worthem.com/ebc/millpk/pages/IMG_3752.html

Ladies and Gentlemen . . . it's a Moots!

http://snipurl.com/dd0f

Got it late today. Too late to ride. Guess the real shakedown cruise
will be the Solvang Century . . . or a dawn patrol run in the morning.

They still owe me one Ti bottle cage . . . and I owe the world better
pictures . . . but I'm too excited to focus right now . . . and hungry
.. . . damned hungry!

Aw, [censored]. I just noticed that the slots in the slotted screws that
affix the headbadge to the bike aren't aligned. Apologies for that.
It *will* be fixed....

No more 30 lb. bike to blame it on :-O

Neil Brooks said:

Ladies and Gentlemen . . . it's a Moots!

http://snipurl.com/dd0f

Quoted message said:

Aw, [censored]. I just noticed that the slots in the slotted screws that
affix the headbadge to the bike aren't aligned. Apologies for that.
It *will* be fixed....

You going with the traditional vertical alignment or the more /avant garde/
horizontal? (Might be a slight wind-resistance penalty with the latter, but
does it LOOK better?!?)

Bill "has cracked numerous light-switch plates over years getting that last
little turn just right" S.

(Maybe we can get a 2-fer discount on therapy? 🙂 )

Neil Brooks <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Wednesday is build day.

All the components are in (right foot now squarely in the Campy
camp). The Moots frame shows up at ye olde LBS on Wednesday.
I'd like to be there for build day.

LBS owners, wrenches, countrymen: How much of a tear would I
create in the time-space continuum of bike shops if I asked if I
could be there for (most of, anyway) build day? I'd -- of
course -- bring a case of each the wrench's and the sales guy's
favorite hooch.

I take it that, from the shop perspective, there are few pros --
at least none that couldn't be accomplished if I just showed up
at 5pm before they set up the stem and seat, right?

If so, then how big are the cons, and how unreasonable is the
request?

Would you . . . could you . . . let me watch? I like to watch.

TIA,

One elated MoFo.

Ignore everyone else.

If you REALLY want to watch, pick whichever mechanic you want to to
the assembly and give him or her some cash and go to the shop after
hours and do it or go to the mechanics place and do it. If you go
to the mechanics place, pay extra and DO NOT cringe when they use
"non-standard" techniques. They use the same techniques in the
shop (and on bikes that cost way more than yours), you just don't
see it.

Whatever you do DON'T involve the manager, owner, boss, etc.
(unless they're doing the building, or you have pictures of them
having sex with dead yaks)!

H.C. Minh said:

Ignore everyone else.

If you REALLY want to watch, pick whichever mechanic you want to to
the assembly and give him or her some cash and go to the shop after
hours and do it or go to the mechanics place and do it. If you go
to the mechanics place, pay extra and DO NOT cringe when they use
"non-standard" techniques. They use the same techniques in the
shop (and on bikes that cost way more than yours), you just don't
see it.

Whatever you do DON'T involve the manager, owner, boss, etc.
(unless they're doing the building, or you have pictures of them
having sex with dead yaks)!

Sound advice. I had to do the in-shop thing. The yak was still
breathing.