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I finally have 160mm Profile cranks!

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
17 March 2005
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20 March 2005
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andrew_carter
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  1. Gary of unicycles.com.au put these on back order for me a while back and
    they finally arrived. Hooray! They're beautiful.

    Just letting you know that Profile still do them in this size.

    Andrew

    --
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  2. you will love them, im on 170's now ( no brake) so that continues the
    10mm ive had on you for the last year 😄

    --
    jagur - Sealed in Carbonite

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  3. I still can't believe you went all the way to 170's. 🙂

    I gave up on removing the old ones tonight...didn't feel like attempting
    to pry off the right crank for now (without a crank puller). Not sure
    how I'm going to go about doing it because it's on there pretty tight.

    Andrew

    --
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  4. you'll be thankful you held off, those 170's are a wee too long,
    methinks

    --
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  5. andrew_carter said:

    *I still can't believe you went all the way to 170's. 🙂

    I gave up on removing the old ones tonight...didn't feel like
    attempting to pry off the right crank for now (without a crank
    puller). Not sure how I'm going to go about doing it because it's on
    there pretty tight.

    Andrew *

    When my cranks were tight, I would take a flathead screwdriver and
    gently tap it between the inside of the crank and the spacer. Once it
    moves away from the spacer a bit, twist the screw driver and it will
    open up another 1/4 inch. From there stop using tools. 🙂 I would hold
    the end of the crank and shake the wheel (with the wheel towards the
    floor) The wheel will fall off from there.

    Do all of this gently and it there will be no damage.

    --
    ChangingLINKS.com - member

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  6. If you think 170's are long, you should try 175's... I used to ride
    175mm profile DH cranks and did I ever feel the difference when I
    switched to 170's.

    --
    Dylan Wallinger - Son Of The Waves
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  7. I've tested the short cranks and was greatly disappointed. Not to start
    that whole flame war again. Ultimately, the difference in length, speed,
    torque really doesn't matter when one considers the facts. Still, I like
    to be able to stop quicker, spin up faster (control the wheel) and ride
    sans brake.

    --
    ChangingLINKS.com - member

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  8. You think you guys have it bad.......I am riding a kh24 wheelset
    (splined) with Torker bmx cranks that are 180mm!!!:eek:

    I am not joking, I have John C. and Unibrier to vouch for that. Ive sort
    of adapted to them, they suck for downhills, and i dont really care for
    them on uphills. I am not that weak of a rider, but i would rather have
    165's (yes, i have ridden them before) hell, I will take 170's. I think
    I will be needing some new cranks in the future. Oh yeah, they are
    already bending, and if i'm not mistaking, longer cranks bend easier
    then shorter cranks?

    -Sabin

    --
    sabin_a. - skilled unicyclist

    "Could god microwave a burrito so hot that he himself could not eat it?"

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  9. Yeah Sabin, longer cranks are weaker, but the manufacturer is generally
    supposed to take this into account when designing them. Profile does
    this (I think), since they have the warranty and hence benefit from
    making a good prodfuct. YOur haro's, once they hav eamde the sale, are
    out of Haro's hands.

    In contrast to Sabin and Andrew, I recently tried 145mm cranks on my
    muni, in place of the 170s (I had the 145s laying around waiting for a
    hub [hint, hint, see my sig], I wouldn't waste my money on them just for
    muni). I find there are some times when I can't fully stop, and I need
    an extra 1/2 rev to stop when speeding, but otherwise I like them.
    Strangely enough, I made it up 2 extremely difficult hill climbs on the
    145s, when I had failed them repeatedly on the 170s.One of them was a
    rather long one, too, so I know it wasn't due to momentum. I am still
    puzzling over why I did better with them than the 170s. My current
    theory is that I'm already a strong enough rider to torque up any hill,
    so there's really no difference I notice. Unicycles have low enough
    gearings that the loss of 1" of length makes me work a bit harder, but I
    still have enough power for most things.

    --
    gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

    Nick's main man.

    "Democracy is just a word when the people are starving"-Immortal
    Technique

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  10. Yeah Bevan,

    The shorter cranks do give you a lot of momentum, which obvioulsy helped
    with those hills nice work. Your right about the issue with stopping,
    which can be vital on rocky/rooty downhill sections. But then again,
    thats partly what the brake is for.

    -Sabin

    --
    sabin_a. - skilled unicyclist

    "Could god microwave a burrito so hot that he himself could not eat it?"

    'SIXSIXONE' (www.sixsixone.com)

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  11. Actually Bevan, I agree with a lot of that. I do still prefer 145mm
    over 170mm, but I think with the steeper and more technical riding I
    want to get into 160's will be ideal. Tomorrow morning I'm trying them
    out on the mountain.

    Andrew

    --
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    http://www.unicycles.com.au
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  12. sabin_a. said:

    *Yeah Bevan,

    The shorter cranks do give you a lot of momentum, which obvioulsy
    helped with those hills nice work. Your right about the issue with
    stopping, which can be vital on rocky/rooty downhill sections. But
    then again, thats partly what the brake is for.

    -Sabin *

    Sabin, I am definitely sure that one of the hilols was too long to have
    momentum make any difference. One was around 100-200' long.

    I find the issue of stopping is bigger on steep stuff where you don't
    want to be spinning full power until the very end. Also, Sabin, brakes
    aren't replacements for torque, rather they are supplements. A brake
    won't solve all problems on steep sections.

    Andrew, I still prefer 170s, since if I were in any rush to get
    anywhere, i'd be on a bike. Also, the extra control of the 170s (I'd be
    on 165s if I had it my way) is a good trade for a small loss in speed.

    --
    gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

    Nick's main man.

    "Democracy is just a word when the people are starving"-Immortal
    Technique

    * I need a profile hub, any condition, as long as the splines work! (PM
    me) *
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  13. They're perfect! I can picture myself being almost as happy with 155's
    and I now know for sure that 170's are far too long for my liking.

    *Steeper technical stuff* - They are ideal for this...I didn't hit my
    pedals on the ground/logs and rocks and am really impressed by the extra
    torque compared ot my old 145's. There was one line in particular where
    I was rolling over this pile of logs down a hill and towards the end of
    it I hit a big one. My weight was quite a fair way forward and I'm
    pretty sure that with my 145's I would have come off, but with the new
    160's I was able to power over it cleanly.

    *Log riding* - I thought that maybe the longer cranks would result in my
    wheel twisting all over the place and having a generally less smooth log
    ride but this wasn't the case. I had good success with logs this
    morning and in fact, the longer cranks allowed me to pedal up steep
    sections of logs that I normally could not.

    *Plain speed* - To be honest I did notice a slight drop in the speed I
    could go comfortably but it wasn't something that bothered me. I could
    still get good speed in shorter bursts to launch off logs and get up
    steep hills.

    *Hill climbing* - I'm still not sure which I like better for this. I
    could really feel the extra torque up the steep hills. Generally I
    think I like them both about equal for hill climbing, except or really
    steep bits...the new 160's performed very well on those.

    *Drops* - I think I will need to spend a little bit of time getting used
    to the extra torque on landing. A few times I had the wheel slip from
    underneath me. This may have been partly because it was slippery out
    there today but I think the main reason was that with the old 145's I
    had to apply more braking pressure than I now need to. I think this
    extra braking torque will be very very beneficial once I get used to
    it.

    *Trialsy lines* - I loved them for these too. On the stack of logs I
    mentioned before I also tried some different lines hopping (and on other
    piles of logs). That extra torque was beautiful. It especially felt
    nice when I was hopping perpendicularly onto round logs. Often with the
    old 145's the wheel would roll out from under me in those situations.

    Two thumbs up!

    Andrew

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  14. ha i have 175's on my 24" and i love it for street

    justin

    p.s. i just broke them haha

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    unibrow

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  15. unibrow said:

    ha i have 175's on my 24" and i love it for street

    What is the effective diameter of your wheel? I'd think that with a
    real 24" wheel your pedals would be touching flat ground if you lean
    even moderately. Of course it also depends on how wide your pedals
    are.

    Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
    --
    people who unicycle are shyly exhibitionistic - GILD

  16. andrew_carter said:

    *I still can't believe you went all the way to 170's. 🙂

    Andrew *


    yeah it was mainly cause the muniac hub comes with the 170 kooka's
    already pressed on. they are longer than i like but without a brake i
    need the extra torque.

    --
    jagur - Sealed in Carbonite

    Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast.
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  17. andrew_carter said:

    *They're perfect! I can picture myself being almost as happy with
    155's and I now know for sure that 170's are far too long for my
    liking. *

    Riding with longer cranks requires some different technique, especially
    when climbing.

    The difficulty with longer cranks is keeping the pedal stroke circular
    and consistent. It's very easy to start pedaling in squares which will
    affect your riding style.

    With longer cranks it is more difficult to keep a smooth circular
    pedaling motion, especially when climbing while standing up out of the
    saddle. With longer cranks you need to learn how to dance on the pedals
    and keep that circular motion going even when standing out of the
    saddle. It takes practice.

    When I'm climbing I try to stay light on the pedals. I also try to
    point my toes down at the bottom of the pedal stroke and pull back and
    up on the backside of the pedal stroke. It's the same things you should
    be doing with shorter cranks, but it's more critical with longer cranks.
    If you loose the dance you start pedaling in squares and at that point
    the technique and riding style changes. If you're trying to power your
    way up a short steep climb you don't want to loose the dance because
    that kills the momentum and the climb becomes a grunt from that point
    on. That's when longer cranks on a climb can be a liability.

    Riding a Coker or other street uni with long cranks (170's or so) will
    teach you how to spin with the long cranks. That'll transfer over to
    the muni.

    I have a second wheel for my muni. Right now it has 160's on it. I've
    tried it for muni and didn't like the shorter cranks. It takes
    noticeably more leg work to climb with the shorter cranks. I could feel
    it in my legs during the ride compared with the 170's. I didn't like
    it. It was like riding around on the mountain bike one gear too high.
    If I was on the bike I'd of shifted down a gear.

    Long cranks aren't going to work as well for everyone. People with
    shorter legs may find long cranks more awkward than people with long
    legs. Some people have different body mechanics that may favor shorter
    or longer cranks. Everyone's not the same. It's good to find what
    length works for you.

    --
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  18. unibrow said:

    *ha i have 175's on my 24" and i love it for street

    justin

    p.s. i just broke them haha *

    yuo are destructive kid

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  19. I did the exact same ride today on my 170s. Much different. Stopping is
    super easy, as is accelerating. I had taken those things for granted
    until I got used to the 145s. I'm kinda annoyed by the slowness of the
    170s, now, but they are still excellent for most of what I ride. I also
    did both difficult hill climbs today that I did on the 145s, in a
    similar number of tries.

    The thing I notice about the 170s is that the bottom of the pedal stroke
    is far more distinct on the 170s then the 145s, making some transitions
    a bit weird. But in the end, I still like the extra torque, although I
    can definitely think of a few trails where 145s would be better (can
    anyone say Tahoe rim from CMW 04?). Lloyd's trail would also be fun on
    145s, although northstar would be suicide.

    --
    gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

    Nick's main man.

    "Democracy is just a word when the people are starving"-Immortal
    Technique

    * I need a profile hub, any condition, as long as the splines work! (PM
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  20. gerblefranklin said:

    * can anyone say Tahoe rim from CMW 04?). Lloyd's trail would also be
    fun on 145s, although northstar would be suicide. *


    so glad i had 160's for that, i still lost that fire trail race to
    scott on 170's but he cheated by pedaling faster. 🙂

    northstar is just like Falls City in its steepness ,just alot longer and
    i can say not suicide with 145's but alot of dismount,walk, mount,
    dismount repeat etc.

    --
    jagur - Sealed in Carbonite

    Smoke me a kipper, I'll be back for breakfast.
    ---------------------------------------------------
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    --------------------------------------
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    *one wheeled death squad*
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