Stem adjustment & trekking handlebars...

Hey, I have the trekking bars installed on my Haro Escape mountain
bike.

The main drawback vs. drop bars is the increased frontal area. So you
can't go as fast and you'll work a bit harder than drop bars. But only
a little bit. And that's if you're putting them on a road bike.

But they beat the [censored] out of flat bars. They're really comfy and you
can pop yourself up on the top to chill out, or drop down and flatten
your back to pick up speed. When you climb, grab on to the sides like
you're knockin' boots and show that hill who's Daddy.

The only problem I've had is bar tape consumption. The "elbows" of this
bar stick out, and when you drop the bike or lean it, that part
contacts the surface first. So bar tape tends to wear pretty quickly
there. Find a bulk deal on it.

Otherwise, they're a great time.

C.J.Patten said:

While I'm at it - I have a stem I don't know how to adjust. It has
two bolts running sideways. I gather it's called "direct connect" - I
only have experience with other kinds.

All loosening the bolts does is let me rotate the bars in relation to
the wheel. How do I raise the thing? (or maybe I'm FUBAR and need a
new stem if I want more height...?)

"Direct connect" is not a term I'm familiar with but I'm guessing you have
a threadless stem, AKA A-Head stem..... Stem is limited by the fork steer
tube it directly clamps to. Stem can be raised if there are any spacers
above the stem (between stem and top cap) by placing spacer(s) below stem
instead. Otherwise the best alternative is indeed to replace the whole
stem for one with more of a rise angle -- that is if turning the stem
upside down doesn't help enough.

~PB

C.J.Patten said:

Hey folks! I saw this picture - perhaps posted here?
If I've annexed this pic from someone here, please forgive me. 😉

http://www.ncf.ca/~af895/bars.jpg

I understand these are "trekking bars."
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=9756&srccode=1067

Anyone use them and like them? Looking for something with more hand
positions than my straight bar. (that sounded kinky)

Any comments on the additional bar-ends that have been added to the
trekking-bars in the photo? They appear to add another hand position - sort
of "aero." Is this a common setup?
___________________________

While I'm at it - I have a stem I don't know how to adjust. It has two bolts
running sideways. I gather it's called "direct connect" - I only have
experience with other kinds.

It's a threadless headset and non-adjustable.

You can see various methods for solving this issue at
"http://bicycleshortlist.com", then click on "Why Threaded Headsets,
with Quill Stems, are preferable to Threadless Headsets" in the table of
contents.

Basically your choices are buying a stem with more or less rise
(depending on which way you want to go), buying a threadless stem riser,
or buying a SpeedLifter ("http://www.speedlifter.com/de/sehen/index.html"😉.

C.J.Patten said:

While I'm at it - I have a stem I don't know how to adjust. It has two bolts
running sideways. I gather it's called "direct connect" - I only have
experience with other kinds.

All loosening the bolts does is let me rotate the bars in relation to the
wheel. How do I raise the thing? (or maybe I'm FUBAR and need a new stem if
I want more height...?)

You have a "threadless headset." The stem clamps directly to the
steerer tube (ie, the top of the fork). You might be able to flip the
stem to get more rise; you might be able to buy a stem that has a
steeper rise angle; in extreme need, you could buy a riser such as this
one (not a recommendation, just an example):
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=12679&subcategory_ID=5230

While you're there you can look at other stems to see how the come in
different rise angles.

Here is a discussion of servicing threadless headsets:
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_headthreadless.shtml

And here is a fabulously useful chart explaining the geometry of stems:
http://www.habcycles.com/fitting.html

RichC

"Steven M. Scharf" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

You can see various methods for solving this issue at
"http://bicycleshortlist.com", then click on "Why Threaded Headsets, with
Quill Stems, are preferable to Threadless Headsets" in the table of
contents.

Tee hee - whoever wrote this forgot to mention the one killer advantage of
threadless headsets (for me, at least) - you no longer need a headset
spanner, only an allen key or two to adjust/completely dismantle the thing.
(and since I hate adjusting bearing play with locknuts etc, there's another
winner for me).

And the tandems section is complete bunk ("aluminium tandems are best
avoided" - oops, there goes most of the decent makes), but never mind...

Steven - Is this your page?

cheers,
clive

in message <[email hidden]>, C.J.Patten

(') said:

Hey folks! I saw this picture - perhaps posted here?
If I've annexed this pic from someone here, please forgive me. 😉

http://www.ncf.ca/~af895/bars.jpg

I understand these are "trekking bars."
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=9756&srccode=1067

I know these as 'butterfly bars'. There may be other names.

Quoted message said:

While I'm at it - I have a stem I don't know how to adjust. It has two
bolts running sideways. I gather it's called "direct connect" - I only
have experience with other kinds.

You can't. Most modern stems are non-adjustable; you simply swap stems.

Quoted message said:

All loosening the bolts does is let me rotate the bars in relation to
the wheel. How do I raise the thing? (or maybe I'm FUBAR and need a
new stem if I want more height...?)

'Fraid so.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; Want to know what SCO stands for?
;; http://ars.userfriendly.org/cartoons/?id=20030605

killermike said:

Quoted message said:

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=9756&srccode=1067

Newbie question from someone who has just returned to cycling this year:
Does the fact that the break levers are not immediately to hand ever cause
difficulties with handle bars of this type?

I don't have those particular bars, but I use bar ends for alternate
hand positions where the brake levers aren't immediately to hand.
Never had a problem; if I'm cycling anywhere where I might need to
brake, I'll ride with my hands covering the brakes (no different to
covering the brake pedal in a car, really). If I know I won't have to
be braking sharply I can use the full range of grips.

R.

C.J.Patten said:

Hey folks! I saw this picture - perhaps posted here?
If I've annexed this pic from someone here, please forgive me. 😉

http://www.ncf.ca/~af895/bars.jpg

I understand these are "trekking bars."
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=9756&srccode=1067

Newbie question from someone who has just returned to cycling this year:
Does the fact that the break levers are not immediately to hand ever cause
difficulties with handle bars of this type?

--
***My real address is m/ike at u/nmusic d/ot co dot u/k (removing /s)
np:
http://www.unmusic.co.uk
http://www.unmusic.co.uk/amh-s-faq.html - alt.music.home-studio FAQ
http://www.unmusic.co.uk/wrap.php?file=vhs.html - vhs purchase log.

Jon Senior said:

Steven is surely the world's leading authority on why his bike is better
than yours.

Gimme a break. I own both aluminum framed bicycles, and ones with
threadless headsets. This does not mean that I cannot state what the
advantages and disadvantages are.

Don't get so attached to your posessions that you have to constantly
defend your decisions.

"Steven M. Scharf" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Jon Senior said:

Steven is surely the world's leading authority on why his bike is better
than yours.

Gimme a break. I own both aluminum framed bicycles, and ones with
threadless headsets. This does not mean that I cannot state what the
advantages and disadvantages are.

So why do you fail to do so? Eg as pointed out, you miss out the one huge
advantage of threadless headsets.

clive

"C.J.Patten" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hey folks! I saw this picture - perhaps posted here?
If I've annexed this pic from someone here, please forgive me. 😉

http://www.ncf.ca/~af895/bars.jpg

I understand these are "trekking bars."
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=9756&srccode=1067

Anyone use them and like them? Looking for something with more hand
positions than my straight bar. (that sounded kinky)

Any comments on the additional bar-ends that have been added to the
trekking-bars in the photo? They appear to add another hand position -
sort of "aero." Is this a common setup?
___________________________

While I'm at it - I have a stem I don't know how to adjust. It has two
bolts running sideways. I gather it's called "direct connect" - I only
have experience with other kinds.

All loosening the bolts does is let me rotate the bars in relation to the
wheel. How do I raise the thing? (or maybe I'm FUBAR and need a new stem
if I want more height...?)

Thanks folks! 🙂

Chris

Well about adjusting the height you probably have a threadless steerer /
fork. About your bars and hand positions. I have straight bars too and I had
to get a set of "end bars" and try some different angles for them to make
them comfortable. You might want to see if you can find some and try them
before you try new bars.

Ken

Screw that, these bars rock. Flat bars w/ends aren't even in the same
league.

Take the red pill, dude. You won't be sorry.

Steven M. Scharf said:

It's a threadless headset and non-adjustable.

You can see various methods for solving this issue at
"http://bicycleshortlist.com", then click on "Why Threaded Headsets,
with Quill Stems, are preferable to Threadless Headsets" in the table of
contents.

Basically your choices are buying a stem with more or less rise
(depending on which way you want to go), buying a threadless stem riser,
or buying a SpeedLifter ("http://www.speedlifter.com/de/sehen/index.html"😉.

Or, crossing http://www.sheldonbrown.org/thorn/ with
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html#threadless, put a collar round
the steerer to replace the stem and put a quill stem inside the steerer.

(The latter page descibes how to use a threadless stem in an adjustable
way, but it assumes your steerer hasn't already been cut down short.
The Thorn page uses both a threadless stem and a quill stem, with two
handlebars.)

"bryanska" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Screw that, these bars rock. Flat bars w/ends aren't even in the same
league.

Take the red pill, dude. You won't be sorry.

They do "look" interesting. And I am sure you have more hand positions. But
I am not sure about mounting my brake levers and shifters on this style bar.
Do you have and pictures of these bars installed on a bike?

Ken

Clive George said:

"Steven M. Scharf" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Jon Senior said:

Steven is surely the world's leading authority on why his bike is better
than yours.

Gimme a break. I own both aluminum framed bicycles, and ones with
threadless headsets. This does not mean that I cannot state what the
advantages and disadvantages are.

So why do you fail to do so? Eg as pointed out, you miss out the one huge
advantage of threadless headsets.

Huge is an overstatement, but I added that advantage to the site. A
headset wrench is inexpensive, and a properly tightened headset will not
loosed on its own.

Alan Braggins said:

(The latter page descibes how to use a threadless stem in an adjustable
way, but it assumes your steerer hasn't already been cut down short.

Unfortunately, this is a very big assumption.

"Steven M. Scharf" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Gimme a break. I own both aluminum framed bicycles, and ones with
threadless headsets. This does not mean that I cannot state what the
advantages and disadvantages are.

So why do you fail to do so? Eg as pointed out, you miss out the one huge
advantage of threadless headsets.

Huge is an overstatement, but I added that advantage to the site. A
headset wrench is inexpensive, and a properly tightened headset will not
loosed on its own.

You also omitted 'easier to set up'. Well, it appears both Jon and I find
that - possibly a suitable form of words would be 'some people also find
them easier to set up'.

clive

killermike said:

Quoted message said:

I understand these are "trekking bars."
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=9756&srccode=1067

Newbie question from someone who has just returned to cycling this year:
Does the fact that the break levers are not immediately to hand ever cause
difficulties with handle bars of this type?

Good question, and one that applies to not only these bars but a variety
of others. I frequently ride using aerobars or no-hands, so I have given
this question a lot of thought.

I think the answer depends entirely where you ride. On the open road,
with good visibility, I don't think it serves any purpose to ride with
your fingers on the brakes. In a pace line, urban street riding, or on a
typical bike path, I wouldn't ride without my hands poised to brake.

Alan Braggins said:

Steven M. Scharf said:

It's a threadless headset and non-adjustable.

You can see various methods for solving this issue at
"http://bicycleshortlist.com", then click on "Why Threaded Headsets,
with Quill Stems, are preferable to Threadless Headsets" in the table of
contents.

Basically your choices are buying a stem with more or less rise
(depending on which way you want to go), buying a threadless stem riser,
or buying a SpeedLifter ("http://www.speedlifter.com/de/sehen/index.html"😉.

Or, crossing http://www.sheldonbrown.org/thorn/ with
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html#threadless, put a collar round
the steerer to replace the stem and put a quill stem inside the steerer.

(The latter page descibes how to use a threadless stem in an adjustable
way, but it assumes your steerer hasn't already been cut down short.
The Thorn page uses both a threadless stem and a quill stem, with two
handlebars.)

I did the same thing (sort of). I put on a threadless stem, pushed the
star nut down, and put a quill stem in the steer tube. Since both stems
have removable faceplates, I can switch my bars from high position to
low in a couple of minutes. I can still set the preload conventionally,
just with a long bolt on the cap (which I then remove). Alternatively,
you can use the low bar position to mount a shortened handlebar to mount
lights, bag or other accessories.