Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Chain line and chain wear...

Started by Xyzzy · · Last activity · 5 posts · 612 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
24 June 2005
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25 June 2005
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Xyzzy
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  1. Where I live I am very happy with a 11-21 cassette... I like having
    very small gaps between the sprockets... I do spend quite a bit of time
    in the 19 and 21 when I climb seated... We don't have any hills where I
    live that I can't climb seated with the 21 or standing with the 17 or
    18... None of our hills is more than 200-300 feet tall so we aren't
    talking more than a minute or two... I have noticed that the 19 and 21
    sprockets show accelerated wear though... I don't mean they start
    skipping or anything... They just get real ugly marks on them from the
    chain hitting them at an angle... I also noticed I wear out chains a
    lot faster... I noticed this because I am temporarily running a 12-25
    right now and my chain has lasted easily twice as long as my old chains
    did with the 11-21... I'm still using a max of 21 so the 23 and 25
    never get touched... With the 11-21 I get around 2000 miles out of a
    chain but with the 12-25 the chain is still measuring like new at 2000
    miles... I usually replace the cassette at 4000 miles just to be
    safe...

    I could change the cassette to a 13-26 and have a straight block from
    13 to 19, and use the 23 and 26 as spacers to clean up the chain line,
    but this seems a bit wasteful, since I would never use those gears and
    I really would like to have the 12... I have no use for an 11 but it
    does clean up the chain line a bit when I am in the small ring... I
    plan to switch to a Chorus cassette next time I buy one and I have
    figured out how to make an all steel 11-21 by taking an existing 11-23
    Chorus cassette and replacing the last two pinned sprocket pairs with a
    10S-78C and a 10S-91C... The 12-25 I have right now works fine but I do
    miss the 18...

    My questions:

    1) Will the steel 17, 18, 19 and 21 wear a lot better than the titanium
    versions, or will they still wear out fast due to the chain line not
    being optimal? Well, I know they will wear better of course, but will
    they wear a lot better? Or am I asking too much from the system with
    the crazy chain angles?

    2) In the big picture, what "ranking" does chain cleanliness, chain
    line, sprocket size and torque applied to the chain affect wear? I have
    read that the smaller sprockets wear faster due to having less teeth to
    distribute the wear and because the chain has to flex more when it
    passes over them... I am guessing that how hard you pedal affects
    sprocket wear too... I just wonder if torque is an order of magnitude
    more important to chain/sprocket wear than chain line, or vice versa...
    Like, would you say the wear breakdown is torque 70%, sprocket size
    15%, chain line $10% and cleanliness 5%?

    3) Will the spacer effect from a 13-26 be worth the trouble given I
    never will use those gears?

    There are several reasons why I like a corn cob cassette... It allows
    me to run a very short chain (104 versus 108) which makes shifting seem
    a bit cleaner, and it keeps the chain from whacking around in some gear
    combos when there is some slack... I can also dial in the B screw to
    get the upper pulley real close to the cassette which seems to make
    shifting even cleaner... I will also admit to liking the corn cob look
    better than a pie pan look, and like I mentioned before, a 21 is all I
    really need...

    PS - I really don't need the 11... I am considering the 12-23 as well,
    except it is impossible to make an all steel 12-23...

    PPS - I'm not cross chaining from the 53 very much... On my bike the
    chainstays are so short I get pretty big angles going from the 39...
    And yes, it is set up properly...

    Thanks!

    --
    Mike (Xyzzy)

  2. On 24 Jun 2005 08:29:11 -0700, "Xyzzy"
    <[email hidden]> wrote:

    [snip]

    Quoted message said:

    PPS - I'm not cross chaining from the 53 very much... On my bike the
    chainstays are so short I get pretty big angles going from the 39...
    And yes, it is set up properly...

    Thanks!

    Dear Xyzzy,

    It's unlikely that the "pretty big angles" caused by a
    shorter-than-usual chainstay between the 39 tooth and the
    larger rear cogs are a problem.

    In fact, the shortness of the chainstays is unlikely to make
    a visible difference in the angle of the chain.

    To expand on an example from a recent thread about shifting
    problems being attributed to short chainstays . . .

    If chainstay distance (bottom-bracket-to-axle) shrinks only
    13 mm (412 mm to 399 mm), and the largest-to-smallest rear
    cog width is about 40 mm, then the maximum chain arc widens
    from 5.545 degrees for the long 412 mm chainstay to 5.725
    degrees for the short 399 mm chainstay--only 0.18 degrees:

    5.725 degrees 5.545 degrees
    | |
    .__. highest gear | 40 mm
    front_______________________.__. lowest gear |
    0 399 412 mm

    Here's a list that gives some idea of the degrees of chain
    arc for various chainstay lengths with a rear cluster 40 mm
    wide:

    chain chain
    stay arc
    length degrees
    412 5.545
    402 5.682
    392 5.826
    382 5.978
    372 6.137
    362 6.305
    352 6.483
    342 6.671

    Starting with a fairly normal 412 mm chainstay, we have to
    shorten the chainstay about 70 mm (almost 3 inches) to
    increase the maximum chain angle 1 degree.

    If you have a midget chainstay only 302 mm long, the arc
    increases 2 degrees to 7.545 degrees

    But these are maximum cross-chaining arcs--if you don't do
    much cross-chaining, then these tiny differences are muc
    smaller.

    The whole derailleur concept took off only after people
    realized that chain alignment was nowhere near as crucial as
    originally thought:

    "The rest of the 1930's derailleurs suffered from the false
    assumptions of the period: Chains have to be perfectly
    aligned. (Although the wide, stiff chains of the period gave
    some support to this theory, it is not true in general.)"

    --Frank Berto, "The Dancing Chain," p. 142, 2nd edition

    Whatever's wearing out your gears, it's not likely that the
    short chainstay is the culprit.

    Good luck,

    Carl Fogel


  3. Quoted message said:

    2) In the big picture, what "ranking" does chain cleanliness, chain
    line, sprocket size and torque applied to the chain affect wear? I have
    read that the smaller sprockets wear faster due to having less teeth to
    distribute the wear and because the chain has to flex more when it
    passes over them... I am guessing that how hard you pedal affects
    sprocket wear too... I just wonder if torque is an order of magnitude
    more important to chain/sprocket wear than chain line, or vice versa...
    Like, would you say the wear breakdown is torque 70%, sprocket size
    15%, chain line $10% and cleanliness 5%?

    Two fairly recent tests were done, one by Spicer:
    http://www.sdearthtimes.com/et1199/et1199s13.html,

    and another by Kyle and Berto:
    http://www.ihpva.org/pubs/HP52.pdf

    Both showed that chainline made a negligible difference in the
    efficiency... ie it was too small to quantify. Kyle and Berto tested a
    Shimano LX system (MTB triple) in the big/big and small/small combos,
    so the chainline should have been more extreme than you are seeing.

    Seems strange to me... if it's not inefficient, then why does it make
    so much *noise*? I avoid the two largest cogs with the big ring, and
    the two smallest with the small ring, because it just sounds like
    something is wrong. I suppose it is possible that wear could be
    accelerated when cross-chaining even though there aren't increased
    mechanical losses... though I'm having a hard time imagining how that
    could be.

    Spicer also found that efficiency *increases* with higher chain tension
    (with power held constant), instead of decreasing or staying constant
    as I would expect. In fact, this effect was so great that it more than
    offset the increased losses from using smaller cogs/rings (ie a 39/14
    may be more efficient than the equivalent 53/19, or a compact 50/34
    crank may be more efficient than a 53/39). Though Kyle and Berto's data
    also shows a slight trend in the same direction, it is less convincing
    than Spicer's.

    Spicer ran a test with a clean unlubricated chain as well, and guess
    what... the efficiency didn't go down! On that one I suspect that he
    did not get the chain *completely* clean... just a *little* residual
    lubrication would have lasted the duration of the test.

    I hope that helps... even though the results are a bit
    counter-intuitive.

    -Ron Ruff

  4. I just discovered that the Spicer test report can also be downloaded:

    http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf

  5. Power inefficiency (wear ) requires force (tension) and relative motion.

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Spicer also found that efficiency *increases* with higher chain tension
    (with power held constant), instead of decreasing or staying constant
    as I would expect.

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