Robin Hubert said:jim beam said:Robin Hubert said:Can these be removed/replaced? Mine are shot and I'd rather not pay
the big bucks for Campagnolo small parts if I can help it.
I did some minor banging on the inner "race" with a socket that
barely slipped through the axle bore from the inside. They didn't
seem to want to budge and I was in fear of driving the inner race
from the cartridge(s). Yes, I removed the set screw but that made no
difference (and I couldn't see the effect, frankly, of the screw).
If I have to buy Campagnolo small parts I'm just going to buy a whole
new hub. That way I get cones, axle, bearings, skewer ....
Cheap pay for Chorus/Centaur 9/10sp cassette body is $60. Record is
$90-something (my hub is Record but I'll replace it with
Chorus/Centaur). Cones are about $20 each (I'm talking wholesale
prices!). That axle is worth $40. Skewer is worth $30. You can buy
a Chorus rear hub at
http://www.lickbike.com/productpage.aspx?PART_NUM_SUB='1892-32' for
$130. Hmmm ... do the math. Isn't Campagnolo Grand!
As a technical aside (ok, it's a [censored] rant), Campagnolo ought to
make these bearings easily serviceable/replaceable since it is such a
weak design. They are too small and vulnerable to properly do the
job. The nerve of them to charge so much money for fixes to an
inferior design!
the shimano freehub with outboard bearing design is arguably better,
but it too is susceptible to weather damage as the seals aren't that
good, on their road hubs at least. [that said, my mtb hubs are
holding up very well and they get stuck in all kinds of horrendous
conditions.]
campy are however good for racing. their hubs are light and the
bearings beautifully free. do what most people do - have a pair of
"everyday" wheels - the high mileage/wet weather ones, and keep your
records for race day. my current wet ride is a mavic cosmos rear
wheel. [readily available] sealed cartridge bearings.
Yes, I agree. I have XT hubs on my Gunnar Sport. You must agree that I
got good use of these bearings though, having been ridden in all manner
of weather for a 5 years. However, I still balk at the price of
replacement.
sure, but for most people that aren't doing the work themselves [and
many of whom often want the excuse for something new & bright & shiny],
replacing parts and paying for labor is comparable to replacement. for
campy, the last hubs i had were 98 record, & those were definitely
inferior to the current models, so again, i'd look to upgrade rather
than repair.
Quoted message said:Shimano's freehub bodies are generally far cheaper
(Ultegra 6600 FH body costs $23; XT at $13) though they seem to have
learned from Campagnolo with their latest offerings.
Keep in mind that Shimano freehub bodies can actually be flushed and
lubed and even properly serviced if you're adept at either procuring
obscure tools or making your own.
yes, i've done that. don't think it's worth it vs. the cost of replacement.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
And, just to be fair, this hub has approx. 20K miles.
Hasn't Shimano's (or whoever's) patent on their freehub design expired?
Robin Hubert
On a related note, have you any advice on replacement of the bearings?
Robin Hubert
for shimano? don't bother. for cartridge bearings? there's this:
http://www.bbinstitute.com/BM5%20chap%2013.pdf.
for cup & cone in general, there is some limited value in ball
replacement, but only if you're doing it yourself. generally, by the
time you notice that a bearing's distressed, the races are damaged. the
cups can take more abuse, but the cones need to be replaced & the cost
of parts + labor is a skinny margin compared to replacing the whole hub.
just replacing balls is imo a false economy. if replacement is
"pre-emptive", most of the time it's more opportunity for contaminants
to /enter/ the races than will be removed by re-greasing. grease
quality is important too - needs to be waterproof but not too thick
[lithium greases can emulsify in water].
i think the single most effective thing you can do for any hub is adjust
so the bearings are just tight enough when the quick release is closed.
[campy have that problem /solved/.] over-tight = dramatically reduced
bearing life. check out sheldon's site for advice on that.
