Bill Henry said:Subject: Converting Mtb Bike to Road Bike?
From: Bill Henry <[email hidden]>
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
User-Agent: Mozilla Thunderbird 1.0.2 (Windows/20050317)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 20:24:25 -0500
I've got a 2004 Gary Fisher Marlin sitting in my garage. I bought it new,
thinking I would go mountain biking on a regular basis. Well, that never
really panned.
A lot of us have been there in one shape or form. No biggie.
Quoted message said:I've been thinking of getting a road bike for my fairly short rides around
town and on paved surfaces. But then it occurred to me that I might be
able to convert the bike to something of a road bike. I have a few
questions, though.
It'll never be as nimble and quick and fun as a pure road bike BUT you can
make it a damn fine and fun street machine of a different caliber
altogether--best part is that you can jump curbs. 😄
Quoted message said:1) The tires are
26", but I would want to add some road slicks. Do I
Quoted message said:need to get new tubes to do this? Will the current wheels work?
New tires AND tubes. Tubes do stretch, but you're gonna want 1" or 1.25"
tires, and you can't shrink a tube down to that size. Quite a few nice
tires in that size. Google will serve ya well. I've got the Performance
house brand 1.25's and they're not bad at all--light, handle decently,
AND cheap.
Quoted message said:2) Can I (and should I) add road handlebars? If so, will they
work with
Quoted message said:the current stem and/or braking system?
You can't but don't. It'll be a major PITA with trying get the fit
right, not to mention the couple hundred in parts. Do this: trim your
bars to a reasonable comfy width with a hacksaw, probably a couple inches
from each end. You don't need wide bar leverage on road and the closer the
bars are to shoulder width the more comfy. Get some nice ergonomic
bar-ends. I like the Cane Creeks, but there are dozens more.
Quoted message said:3) The heavy suspension
fork isn't going to be necessary. How do I go
Quoted message said:about looking for a road-type fork?
A rigid fork will drop a few pounds and cost about a hundred. you'll need
a MTB specific rigid fork. Surly makes one, and there are other
manufacturers. About a hundred bucks. Needs to be "suspension adjusted"
meaning that it's tall to compensate for the height of the removed
suspension fork
Quoted message said:I have some decent mechanical skills and am something of
a gearhead, but
Quoted message said:don't have a lot of experience working on bicycles.
Thank goodness for the internet then. You might want to leave the fork
swapping to a shop. It's not hard, but you can do a lot of damage w/o the
right tools. I did my own headset with a 2x4 and a section of PVC--I
really don't recommend it, it's easy to screw up. Tires and bars are easy.
Quoted message said:Of course, the other option is to just sell the damn thing and buy a
used road bike.
You might very well come out ahead this way. Probably your best option.
On the other hand, slicks, a new fork, and a tighter rear cassette for the
road (you don't need all those silly low gears on pavement) would run a
couple hundred and net you a very bulletproof pavement ride.