Road Cycling · Public discussion

Converting Mtb Bike to Road Bike?

Started by Bill Henry · · Last activity · 12 posts · 804 views

This thread is locked and is currently read-only.

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Road Cycling
Published
27 July 2005
Last activity
28 July 2005
Original author
Bill Henry
Posts
12
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
804
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–12 of 12
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. I've got a 2004 Gary Fisher Marlin sitting in my garage. I bought it
    new, thinking I would go mountain biking on a regular basis. Well, that
    never really panned.

    I've been thinking of getting a road bike for my fairly short rides
    around town and on paved surfaces. But then it occurred to me that I
    might be able to convert the bike to something of a road bike. I have a
    few questions, though.

    1) The tires are 26", but I would want to add some road slicks. Do I
    need to get new tubes to do this? Will the current wheels work?

    2) Can I (and should I) add road handlebars? If so, will they work with
    the current stem and/or braking system?

    3) The heavy suspension fork isn't going to be necessary. How do I go
    about looking for a road-type fork? Will most forks fit with my
    headset, etc., or do I have to be very specific what I'm looking for?

    I have some decent mechanical skills and am something of a gearhead, but
    don't have a lot of experience working on bicycles.

    Of course, the other option is to just sell the damn thing and buy a
    used road bike. But I like everything else about this bike so that kind
    of seems like a waste. Plus, this sounds like more fun.

    Thanks for any tips.

  2. "Bill Henry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I've got a 2004 Gary Fisher Marlin sitting in my garage. I bought it new,
    thinking I would go mountain biking on a regular basis. Well, that never
    really panned.
    I've been thinking of getting a road bike for my fairly short rides around
    town and on paved surfaces. But then it occurred to me that I might be
    able to convert the bike to something of a road bike. I have a few
    questions, though.
    1) The tires are 26", but I would want to add some road slicks. Do I need
    to get new tubes to do this? Will the current wheels work?
    2) Can I (and should I) add road handlebars? If so, will they work with
    the current stem and/or braking system?
    3) The heavy suspension fork isn't going to be necessary. How do I go
    about looking for a road-type fork? Will most forks fit with my headset,
    etc., or do I have to be very specific what I'm looking for?
    I have some decent mechanical skills and am something of a gearhead, but
    don't have a lot of experience working on bicycles.
    Of course, the other option is to just sell the damn thing and buy a used
    road bike. But I like everything else about this bike so that kind of
    seems like a waste. Plus, this sounds like more fun.
    Thanks for any tips.

    In my opinion you only need to mount road slicks or semi-road slicks. If you
    get the larger 1.5" or 1.9" slicks, your tubes should be just fine.
    I would probably add bar ends, if you haven't done it yet.
    Other than that you don't need to change a thing, the suspension feels nice
    on the rough roads. But if you really want to a fork could be gotten for it,
    the rear suspensiuon could be relaced with a machine aluminum bar
    appropriately drilled and machined.
    If you think you will be out at times it may be getting darker or something,
    then a LED tailight and or a headlight would be useful.
    The more upright position makes it easier to see what is going on around
    you, so although you could put on road bars, I don't see it as being too
    useful.
    But your could if you want to. The trick would be if your grips and shifters
    and brake levers could be moved over or not, the drop down bar has a lot of
    curves and the parts may not slide onto it, I don't know for sure.
    But just putting on road slicks is all you really need to do.

  3. "Bill Henry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I've got a 2004 Gary Fisher Marlin sitting in my garage. I bought it new,
    thinking I would go mountain biking on a regular basis. Well, that never
    really panned.
    I've been thinking of getting a road bike for my fairly short rides around
    town and on paved surfaces. But then it occurred to me that I might be
    able to convert the bike to something of a road bike. I have a few
    questions, though.
    1) The tires are 26", but I would want to add some road slicks. Do I need
    to get new tubes to do this? Will the current wheels work?
    2) Can I (and should I) add road handlebars? If so, will they work with
    the current stem and/or braking system?
    3) The heavy suspension fork isn't going to be necessary. How do I go
    about looking for a road-type fork? Will most forks fit with my headset,
    etc., or do I have to be very specific what I'm looking for?
    I have some decent mechanical skills and am something of a gearhead, but
    don't have a lot of experience working on bicycles.
    Of course, the other option is to just sell the damn thing and buy a used
    road bike. But I like everything else about this bike so that kind of
    seems like a waste. Plus, this sounds like more fun.
    Thanks for any tips.

    In my opinion you only need to mount road slicks or semi-road slicks. If you
    get the larger 1.5" or 1.9" slicks, your tubes should be just fine.
    I would probably add bar ends, if you haven't done it yet.
    Other than that you don't need to change a thing, the suspension feels nice
    on the rough roads. But if you really want to a fork could be gotten for it,
    the rear suspensiuon could be relaced with a machine aluminum bar
    appropriately drilled and machined.
    If you think you will be out at times it may be getting darker or something,
    then a LED tailight and or a headlight would be useful.
    The more upright position makes it easier to see what is going on around
    you, so although you could put on road bars, I don't see it as being too
    useful.
    But your could if you want to. The trick would be if your grips and shifters
    and brake levers could be moved over or not, the drop down bar has a lot of
    curves and the parts may not slide onto it, I don't know for sure.
    But just putting on road slicks is all you really need to do.

  4. "Bill Henry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I've got a 2004 Gary Fisher Marlin sitting in my garage. I bought it new,
    thinking I would go mountain biking on a regular basis. Well, that never
    really panned.
    I've been thinking of getting a road bike for my fairly short rides around
    town and on paved surfaces. But then it occurred to me that I might be
    able to convert the bike to something of a road bike. I have a few
    questions, though.
    1) The tires are 26", but I would want to add some road slicks. Do I need
    to get new tubes to do this? Will the current wheels work?
    2) Can I (and should I) add road handlebars? If so, will they work with
    the current stem and/or braking system?
    3) The heavy suspension fork isn't going to be necessary. How do I go
    about looking for a road-type fork? Will most forks fit with my headset,
    etc., or do I have to be very specific what I'm looking for?
    I have some decent mechanical skills and am something of a gearhead, but
    don't have a lot of experience working on bicycles.
    Of course, the other option is to just sell the damn thing and buy a used
    road bike. But I like everything else about this bike so that kind of
    seems like a waste. Plus, this sounds like more fun.
    Thanks for any tips.

    In my opinion you only need to mount road slicks or semi-road slicks. If you
    get the larger 1.5" or 1.9" slicks, your tubes should be just fine.
    I would probably add bar ends, if you haven't done it yet.
    Other than that you don't need to change a thing, the suspension feels nice
    on the rough roads. But if you really want to a fork could be gotten for it,
    the rear suspensiuon could be relaced with a machine aluminum bar
    appropriately drilled and machined.
    If you think you will be out at times it may be getting darker or something,
    then a LED tailight and or a headlight would be useful.
    The more upright position makes it easier to see what is going on around
    you, so although you could put on road bars, I don't see it as being too
    useful.
    But your could if you want to. The trick would be if your grips and shifters
    and brake levers could be moved over or not, the drop down bar has a lot of
    curves and the parts may not slide onto it, I don't know for sure.
    But just putting on road slicks is all you really need to do.

  5. "Bill Henry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I've got a 2004 Gary Fisher Marlin sitting in my garage. I bought it new,
    thinking I would go mountain biking on a regular basis. Well, that never
    really panned.

    I've been thinking of getting a road bike for my fairly short rides around
    town and on paved surfaces. But then it occurred to me that I might be
    able to convert the bike to something of a road bike. I have a few
    questions, though.

    1) The tires are 26", but I would want to add some road slicks. Do I need
    to get new tubes to do this? Will the current wheels work?


    Possibly. I have a front suspended MTB with slicks, and it's OK in town. Not
    as fast as my road bikes, but it's fun. Good curb jumper, too.

  6. Earl Bollinger said:

    "Bill Henry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I've got a 2004 Gary Fisher Marlin sitting in my garage. I bought
    it new, thinking I would go mountain biking on a regular basis. Well,
    that never really panned.
    I've been thinking of getting a road bike for my fairly short rides
    around town and on paved surfaces. But then it occurred to me that
    I might be able to convert the bike to something of a road bike. I
    have a few questions, though.
    1) The tires are 26", but I would want to add some road slicks. Do
    I need to get new tubes to do this? Will the current wheels work?
    2) Can I (and should I) add road handlebars? If so, will they work
    with the current stem and/or braking system?
    3) The heavy suspension fork isn't going to be necessary. How do I
    go about looking for a road-type fork? Will most forks fit with my
    headset, etc., or do I have to be very specific what I'm looking for?
    I have some decent mechanical skills and am something of a gearhead,
    but don't have a lot of experience working on bicycles.
    Of course, the other option is to just sell the damn thing and buy a
    used road bike. But I like everything else about this bike so that
    kind of seems like a waste. Plus, this sounds like more fun.
    Thanks for any tips.

    In my opinion you only need to mount road slicks or semi-road slicks.
    If you get the larger 1.5" or 1.9" slicks, your tubes should be just
    fine. I would probably add bar ends, if you haven't done it yet.
    Other than that you don't need to change a thing, the suspension
    feels nice on the rough roads. But if you really want to a fork could
    be gotten for it, the rear suspensiuon could be relaced with a
    machine aluminum bar appropriately drilled and machined.

    Fisher Marlin is a hard tail, IINM.

    I agree with most of the rest -- just get some slick tires and ride the
    thing. *IF* you find the front bobbing too much (doubtful), then rigid mtb
    forks are cheap and plentiful. If you later decide to do more "serious"
    road riding, then a full-on road bike will fit the bill...and you'll still
    have the Marlin for fun cruises, backup, and even off-road (w/knobbies back
    on)...

    Bill S.

  7. Bill Henry said:

    Subject: Converting Mtb Bike to Road Bike?
    From: Bill Henry <[email hidden]>
    Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc
    User-Agent: Mozilla Thunderbird 1.0.2 (Windows/20050317)
    Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2005 20:24:25 -0500

    I've got a 2004 Gary Fisher Marlin sitting in my garage. I bought it new,
    thinking I would go mountain biking on a regular basis. Well, that never
    really panned.


    A lot of us have been there in one shape or form. No biggie.

    Quoted message said:

    I've been thinking of getting a road bike for my fairly short rides around
    town and on paved surfaces. But then it occurred to me that I might be
    able to convert the bike to something of a road bike. I have a few
    questions, though.

    It'll never be as nimble and quick and fun as a pure road bike BUT you can
    make it a damn fine and fun street machine of a different caliber
    altogether--best part is that you can jump curbs. 😄

    Quoted message said:

    1) The tires are


    26", but I would want to add some road slicks. Do I

    Quoted message said:

    need to get new tubes to do this? Will the current wheels work?

    New tires AND tubes. Tubes do stretch, but you're gonna want 1" or 1.25"
    tires, and you can't shrink a tube down to that size. Quite a few nice
    tires in that size. Google will serve ya well. I've got the Performance
    house brand 1.25's and they're not bad at all--light, handle decently,
    AND cheap.

    Quoted message said:

    2) Can I (and should I) add road handlebars? If so, will they


    work with

    Quoted message said:

    the current stem and/or braking system?

    You can't but don't. It'll be a major PITA with trying get the fit
    right, not to mention the couple hundred in parts. Do this: trim your
    bars to a reasonable comfy width with a hacksaw, probably a couple inches
    from each end. You don't need wide bar leverage on road and the closer the
    bars are to shoulder width the more comfy. Get some nice ergonomic
    bar-ends. I like the Cane Creeks, but there are dozens more.

    Quoted message said:

    3) The heavy suspension


    fork isn't going to be necessary. How do I go

    Quoted message said:

    about looking for a road-type fork?

    A rigid fork will drop a few pounds and cost about a hundred. you'll need
    a MTB specific rigid fork. Surly makes one, and there are other
    manufacturers. About a hundred bucks. Needs to be "suspension adjusted"
    meaning that it's tall to compensate for the height of the removed
    suspension fork

    Quoted message said:

    I have some decent mechanical skills and am something of


    a gearhead, but

    Quoted message said:

    don't have a lot of experience working on bicycles.

    Thank goodness for the internet then. You might want to leave the fork
    swapping to a shop. It's not hard, but you can do a lot of damage w/o the
    right tools. I did my own headset with a 2x4 and a section of PVC--I
    really don't recommend it, it's easy to screw up. Tires and bars are easy.

    Quoted message said:

    Of course, the other option is to just sell the damn thing and buy a
    used road bike.

    You might very well come out ahead this way. Probably your best option.

    On the other hand, slicks, a new fork, and a tighter rear cassette for the
    road (you don't need all those silly low gears on pavement) would run a
    couple hundred and net you a very bulletproof pavement ride.

  8. "Bill Henry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I've got a 2004 Gary Fisher Marlin sitting in my garage. I bought it new,
    thinking I would go mountain biking on a regular basis. Well, that never
    really panned.

    I've been thinking of getting a road bike for my fairly short rides around
    town and on paved surfaces. But then it occurred to me that I might be
    able to convert the bike to something of a road bike. I have a few
    questions, though.


    I converted my 1991 Shogun Team Issue. It's very simple. I bought some 1.5"
    Chen Shin Tyres in a sale for $9 Canadian (!)each plus some new tubes. The
    wheels are just fine. I had already fitted end bars. Don't bother with the
    forks. There is no reason to change them. I also fitted a rear rack on mine
    for touring purposes.
    The only shortcoming for longer rides is that you can't get down "on the
    drops" in headwinds. Also I don't care for the straight bars. They are at
    the wrong angle for my wrists. I chopped about 2" off the ends and use the
    end bars most of the time.
    On the up side you will have a bombproof bike more than capable of coping
    with any road condition.

    Good luck,

    Roy

  9. I ride an mtb for around town commuting and stuff, I just put some
    touring type tires on it, high pressure deals up to 80psi that works
    really good. I find the wide upright position of the mtb bars to be
    better for around town than drop bars.

    Ken

  10. Bill Henry <[email hidden]> wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    I've got a 2004 Gary Fisher Marlin sitting in my garage. I bought
    it new, thinking I would go mountain biking on a regular basis.
    Well, that never really panned.

    I've been thinking of getting a road bike for my fairly short rides
    around town and on paved surfaces. But then it occurred to me that
    I might be able to convert the bike to something of a road bike. I
    have a few questions, though.

    1) The tires are 26", but I would want to add some road slicks. Do
    I need to get new tubes to do this? Will the current wheels work?

    2) Can I (and should I) add road handlebars? If so, will they work
    with the current stem and/or braking system?

    3) The heavy suspension fork isn't going to be necessary. How do I
    go about looking for a road-type fork? Will most forks fit with my
    headset, etc., or do I have to be very specific what I'm looking
    for?

    I have some decent mechanical skills and am something of a
    gearhead, but don't have a lot of experience working on bicycles.

    Of course, the other option is to just sell the damn thing and buy
    a used road bike. But I like everything else about this bike so
    that kind of seems like a waste. Plus, this sounds like more fun.

    Thanks for any tips.

    I converted my Trek 800 into a commuter bike. All you really need to do
    (well, you don't 'need' to do anything, really) is put some 1.95" slicks
    on your MTB - would use the same tubes. I decided to go with 1.25"
    slicks (requires different tubes, but tubes are cheap) on mine (still
    compatible with the original rims). At 95PSI, they're better for going
    faster.

    I didn't go with the drop bars. I think there'd be some extra work
    involved in messing with the brake and transmission cables, and I didn't
    feel like going thru that extra work.

    But, now that I've commuted on my bike for 5 years, I'm longing for a
    road bike - something lighter and faster - to have more fun on. I'm
    thinking of getting something like the Jamis Satellite or Trek 1500.
    Well, it's a dream right now - gotta convince the wife, first.

    --
    Eric Babula
    Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA

  11. Eric,

    You are in Trek land. Keep on the lookout. There's got to be a few 531
    steel, lugged and butted, road Treks floating around Milwaukee. A lot
    of those great mid-80's bikes came with Shimano 600 groups to boot.
    They call that line Ultegra now. Plenty fast, plenty cheap, great
    rides.

  12. araby said:

    The only shortcoming for longer rides is that you can't get down "on the
    drops" in headwinds. Also I don't care for the straight bars. They are at
    the wrong angle for my wrists. I chopped about 2" off the ends and use the
    end bars most of the time.

    I know a couple of guys who use converted MTBs for fast road rides, both
    added aerobars to the flat bars.

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.