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Can you put 700c wheels on a 27" old bike ??

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Road Cycling
Published
28 July 2003
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29 July 2003
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Joe Potter
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  1. Hello all,

    I am looking to fix up an old road bike. As I got it, the bike has a 27" wheelset on the back of
    the bike and a 700c on the front with brakes that "sorta match" the 700c front rim. (27" is what
    came with it)

    Is it even possible to convert to 700c wheels? If so, what all needs to be replaced or adjusted?

    If not, what is the best bet to replace the 700c front wheelset?

    Also, can you change a 5 speed cassette to a 6 or 7 on this bike? (it has 3 in the front)

    Thanks.

    --
    Regards, Joe

  2. "Joe Potter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hello all,

    I am looking to fix up an old road bike. As I got it, the bike has a 27" wheelset on the back of
    the bike and a 700c on the front with brakes that "sorta match" the 700c front rim. (27" is what
    came with it)

    Is it even possible to convert to 700c wheels? If so, what all needs to


    be

    Quoted message said:

    replaced or adjusted?

    Yes, assuming that there is sufficient width between the rear fork blades for the width of 700 rim
    and tyre you want to use - a couple of issues though :

    1 Brakes may need replacing to get the reach for the blocks to line up with the rims

    2 The rear stays may need opening out a little to handle the slightly wider axle normally found on
    "modern" 700 wheels - assuming the frame is steel (probably is if the bike started out with 27
    wheels) then Sheldon Brown has an intriguing method to open the stays, see his site. [The method
    seems pretty frightening but if you take it slowly and gently it does work .... I've done a couple
    of frames without any problem)

    Quoted message said:


    If not, what is the best bet to replace the 700c front wheelset?

    Also, can you change a 5 speed cassette to a 6 or 7 on this bike? (it has 3 in the front)

    Shouldn't be a problem - again I changed a 1970s 27 inch wheel bike with 2 on the front nnd 5 on the
    back to 700 rims with 7 on the back using all the original componentry (I'm just about to chnage the
    front to a triple and that will need a longer BB axle but the changer should still work OK)

    Best of luck

    Rob

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks.

    --
    Regards, Joe

  3. Joe Potter said:

    Hello all,

    I am looking to fix up an old road bike. As I got it, the bike has a 27" wheelset on the back of
    the bike and a 700c on the front with brakes that "sorta match" the 700c front rim. (27" is what
    came with it)

    Well, a lot of bikes back then could handle either size (tubulars are the same size as 700c, and 27"
    were the only clinchers widely available in the US, which explains why). You will have to lower your
    brake blocks 4mm. If there is that much room, you are good. If not, you may need to get new
    long-reach brakes, or a "drop bolt", a special attaching bolt with a displacement.

    For the rear wheel you may have to spread the dropouts to fit in a standard 130mm cassette hub. A
    good bike shop can do this for you cheaply if you don't trust yourself to use Sheldon's method.

    You can use your old hub, and just replace the rim, if you can handle building a wheel.

    Quoted message said:

    Also, can you change a 5 speed cassette to a 6 or 7 on this bike? (it has 3 in the front)


    This would force you into the spreading of the rear. It is no big deal, since you only need eitehr 4
    or 10mm extra, depending on what you have. Then you can go 9 in the rear, or even 10 if you want
    Campy, but that is pretty pricey for an old bike.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | If all economists were laid end to end, they would not reach a _`\(,_ | conclusion. --
    George Bernard Shaw (_)/ (_) |

  4. In article said:

    Hello all,

    I am looking to fix up an old road bike. As I got it, the bike has a 27" wheelset on the back of
    the bike and a 700c on the front with brakes that "sorta match" the 700c front rim. (27" is what
    came with it)

    Is it even possible to convert to 700c wheels? If so, what all needs to be replaced or adjusted?

    You just need to lower the brake pads so they are in the correct position for the new rim. Often
    this is impossible and requires replacing the calipers or using a drop bolt. But sometimes it just
    works, it depends mostly on the design of the frame and the brakes you have.

    Quoted message said:

    If not, what is the best bet to replace the 700c front wheelset?

    Also, can you change a 5 speed cassette to a 6 or 7 on this bike? (it has 3 in the front)

    If it's really a cassette then probably not. But if it's really a freewheel, and it's English thread
    then it wouldn't be too hard. A 5-speed is usually narrower between the rear dropouts than a
    6/7-speed hub, so you may end up respacing the rear triangle as well.

    If you replace the rear wheel, I suggest you use a 130-135mm spaced modern road or mountain hub,
    designed for 9-speed, cassette type. If you get some kind of Shimano or Shimano-compatible hub then
    you can easily run an 8-speed cogset on it. You would definitely want to respace the frame in that
    case but it would be a much better wheel that way.

    --Paul

  5. David L. Johnson said:
    Joe Potter said:

    Hello all,

    I am looking to fix up an old road bike. As I got it, the bike has a 27" wheelset on the back of
    the bike and a 700c on the front with brakes that "sorta match" the 700c front rim. (27" is what
    came with it)

    Well, a lot of bikes back then could handle either size (tubulars are the same size as 700c, and
    27" were the only clinchers widely available in the US, which explains why). You will have to
    lower your brake blocks 4mm. If there is that much room, you are good. If not, you may need to get
    new long-reach brakes, or a "drop bolt", a special attaching bolt with a displacement.

    I think the brakes are "long-reach", perhaps a simple adjustment will do the trick. If I can get
    them freed up with WD-40 I'll give it a try.

    Quoted message said:

    For the rear wheel you may have to spread the dropouts to fit in a standard 130mm cassette hub. A
    good bike shop can do this for you cheaply if you don't trust yourself to use Sheldon's method.

    You can use your old hub, and just replace the rim, if you can handle building a wheel.

    Quoted message said:

    Also, can you change a 5 speed cassette to a 6 or 7 on this bike? (it has 3 in the front)


    This would force you into the spreading of the rear. It is no big deal, since you only need eitehr
    4 or 10mm extra, depending on what you have. Then you can go 9 in the rear, or even 10 if you want
    Campy, but that is pretty pricey for an old bike.

    I do not really need more gears. Here in Orlando we do darn few hard climbs!

    Thanks much for your information.

    --
    Regards, Joe

  6. Paul Southworth said:
    In article said:

    Hello all,

    I am looking to fix up an old road bike. As I got it, the bike has a 27" wheelset on the back of
    the bike and a 700c on the front with brakes that "sorta match" the 700c front rim. (27" is what
    came with it)

    Is it even possible to convert to 700c wheels? If so, what all needs to be replaced or adjusted?

    You just need to lower the brake pads so they are in the correct position for the new rim. Often
    this is impossible and requires replacing the calipers or using a drop bolt. But sometimes it just
    works, it depends mostly on the design of the frame and the brakes you have.

    Well, for now I'll try to work on the front brakes and get them correct for the 700c wheelset. I'll
    leave the 27" in the bake alone untill I see what it takes to get the brakes correct.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If not, what is the best bet to replace the 700c front wheelset?

    Also, can you change a 5 speed cassette to a 6 or 7 on this bike? (it has 3 in the front)

    If it's really a cassette then probably not. But if it's really a freewheel, and it's
    English thread then it wouldn't be too hard. A 5-speed is usually narrower between the rear
    dropouts than a
    6/7-speed hub, so you may end up respacing the rear triangle as well.

    If you replace the rear wheel, I suggest you use a 130-135mm spaced modern road or mountain hub,
    designed for 9-speed, cassette type. If you get some kind of Shimano or Shimano-compatible hub
    then you can easily run an 8-speed cogset on it. You would definitely want to respace the frame in
    that case but it would be a much better wheel that way.

    --Paul

    Thanks for the info, Paul.

    --
    Regards, Joe

  7. RG said:


    "Joe Potter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hello all,

    I am looking to fix up an old road bike. As I got it, the bike has a 27" wheelset on the back of
    the bike and a 700c on the front with brakes that "sorta match" the 700c front rim. (27" is what
    came with it)

    Is it even possible to convert to 700c wheels? If so, what all needs to


    be

    Quoted message said:

    replaced or adjusted?

    Yes, assuming that there is sufficient width between the rear fork blades for the width of 700 rim
    and tyre you want to use - a couple of issues though :

    1 Brakes may need replacing to get the reach for the blocks to line up with the rims

    A fellow at the LBS seemed to think that old 80's road bikes would not accept new brakes becuase of
    where the mounting holes are. Anything to that?

    Quoted message said:

    2 The rear stays may need opening out a little to handle the slightly wider axle normally found on
    "modern" 700 wheels - assuming the frame is steel (probably is if the bike started out with 27
    wheels) then Sheldon Brown has an intriguing method to open the stays, see his site. [The method
    seems pretty frightening but if you take it slowly and gently it does work .... I've done a couple
    of frames without any problem)

    I'll give it a look.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    If not, what is the best bet to replace the 700c front wheelset?

    Also, can you change a 5 speed cassette to a 6 or 7 on this bike? (it has 3 in the front)

    Shouldn't be a problem - again I changed a 1970s 27 inch wheel bike with 2 on the front nnd 5 on
    the back to 700 rims with 7 on the back using all the original componentry (I'm just about to
    chnage the front to a triple and that will need a longer BB axle but the changer should still
    work OK)

    Best of luck

    Rob

    Hmmm. You seem to be proof it can be done. I guess I'll look to go to 700c and 7 on the back. I
    already have the 3 on the front. And, I just love the feel of this little ol' bike.

    Thanks for your help.

    --
    Regards, Joe

  8. Joe Potter said:
    Quoted message said:

    1 Brakes may need replacing to get the reach for the blocks to line up with the rims

    Quoted message said:

    A fellow at the LBS seemed to think that old 80's road bikes would not accept new brakes becuase
    of where the mounting holes are. Anything to that?

    Not really. There are modern brakes available to fit. Fenders or extra long reach can complicate
    matters but these problems can be overcome. Also, allen key type brakes can be used by enlargening
    the holes to accept the recessed nuts - this will increase your choice of calipers although may
    not be necessary as some old-style "nutted" brakes are still available. The drilling is an easy
    job though.

    Note. The brake pads will only need lowering by 4mm. This may already be possible as is, or if
    caliper slots are filed.

    I've done all this (700c wheel with old brakes, and new brakes, and respread frame to 130mm) myself
    with a 1985 bike that took 27" wheels.

    ~PB

  9. Joe Potter said:

    A fellow at the LBS seemed to think that old 80's road bikes would not accept new brakes becuase
    of where the mounting holes are. Anything to that?

    Well, sort of. Modern brakes -- most of them, are very short-reach, and older frames expect a longer
    reach in order to accomodate old-fashioned ideas like fenders, fat tires, and even 27" wheels. No
    longer do we worry about any of that. But it has brakes already, right?

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | Let's not escape into mathematics. Let's stay with reality. -- _`\(,_ | Michael Crichton
    (_)/ (_) |

  10. Pete Biggs said:
    Quoted message said:

    A fellow at the LBS seemed to think that old 80's road bikes would not accept new brakes becuase
    of where the mounting holes are. Anything to that?

    Not really. There are modern brakes available to fit.

    True

    Quoted message said:

    Also, allen key type brakes can be used by enlargening the holes to accept the recessed nuts -
    this will increase your choice of calipers although may not be necessary as some old-style
    "nutted" brakes are still available. The drilling is an easy job though.

    Well, most 1980s bikes did use allen-key brake bolts, at least the high-end ones did. It was the
    1960s and early 70s when you often had to drill out the brake bolt hole. I did this on a couple of
    bikes. The front is no problem. The rear is.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | It doesn't get any easier, you just go faster. --Greg LeMond _`\(,_ | (_)/ (_) |

  11. David L. Johnson said:
    Joe Potter said:

    A fellow at the LBS seemed to think that old 80's road bikes would not accept new brakes becuase
    of where the mounting holes are. Anything to that?

    Well, sort of. Modern brakes -- most of them, are very short-reach, and older frames expect a
    longer reach in order to accomodate old-fashioned ideas like fenders, fat tires, and even 27"
    wheels. No longer do we worry about any of that. But it has brakes already, right?

    Yes, it has brakes. The ones on the front do work and I have ridden the bike. The brakes have a
    real long arm compared to my 1999 cannondale. But they do touch the tire a bit and do not look
    "straight" to me.

    I am afraid the brakes will need to be soaked in WD-40 before any more adjustments are made.

    --
    Regards, Joe

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