wilmar13 said:JTE83, I have seen you make this reference several times now and I ask nicely that you never do it again beacause:
A) you have no idea what the friction of the bearings from the wheels is when spinning the wheels without load... if the bearings are totally shot your wheel will spin forever but as soon as you put 100lbs on it it will have way more friction than some "tight" bearing that you keep referencing
B) What the hell does your skewer rotating INSIDE the axle of your wheel have to do with bearing friction anyway?
It is crazy how so many people make sweeping judgements based on how well their wheels spin, everything from importance of rotational intertia reduction to how much higher your top speed is because of smoother bearings. Please stop it, you are driving anal retentive people like me mad... 😄
I should know what I'm saying about friction - I'm a mechanical engineer. And my Eurus wheels are breaking in with more miles so I'm happy with that. Otherwise, at 1000 miles - I would have sold these wheels on ebay.
With a load and me riding on my bike the Eurus wheels feel fast. But I know they suck power because the hubs are not frictionless yet. Look at a brand new set of Zipp hubs - those are frictionless from the start! My Eurus hubs now spin slowly from horizontal due to gravity @ 453.3 miles.
Since the Eurus have a reputation for staying true with lots of miles then they might be worth keeping. But they are hard to true and really expensive to true when trueing is needed.
The skewer "holds" the axle and they both spin together when the wheel is held up in the air not mounted on a bike.
But your top speed will be higher with smoother / frictionless bearings.
I would rather have a set of HED 3s and Zipp 404 tubulars for my race bikes but I can't afford that. My Eurus wheels are still somewhat disappointing.