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Re: PBC pipe for obstacles?

Started by teachndad · · Last activity · 9 posts · 428 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
11 September 2005
Last activity
13 September 2005
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teachndad
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  1. I was brainstorming how to add to my simple beginning backyard trials
    set up.

    I was thinking about building something like a ladder with PBC piping.
    It would lie down on the ground and be used for gapping practice. I
    could forward hop on each "rung" or gap from one "rung to another. The
    PBC piping would probably 1" size or a bit bigger. It would be about
    18" wide and 8 to 10 feet long. The gaps between the rungs would be
    irregular, so as you hop from one rung to another, you would have to
    adjust to the changing distance.

    I would probably have some planking to mount the structure to in order
    to keep it stable if I was gapping along its length from the left to
    the right side and back and forth, so it doesn't tip over.

    I figure the stuff is cheap and easy to work with. Not sure how durable
    it is or how prone to crushing it is.

    I have also toyed with placing a 2"size pipe onto a 8' piece of wood to
    create a skinny to ride on. Any comments on that idea.

    Cheers

    --
    teachndad - ONE for the...Off Road

    Rod Wylie

    'MountainUnicyclingLA.com' (http://www.mountainunicyclingla.com)
    'Greater Los Angeles Area Trails - Images'
    (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Greater-Los-Angeles-Trails)
    'Greater Los Angeles Area Trails - Descriptions'
    (http://tinyurl.com/6h8zn)
    'UnicycleRoundupLA.com/' (http://unicycleroundupla.com/)
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  2. If you're talking about PVC (Poly-Vinyl Conduit, I believe), i would
    reccomend against it. That stuff is too flexible, and will be very
    unstable and wiggly in lengths beyond about 10-15x the thickness of the
    pipe.

    Why not some 1.5" schedule 40 pipe? That's standard handrail stock,
    super durable and plenty stiff. Talk to your local scrap yard to find
    some. You can cut it with a hacksaw or pickup a hand held bandsaw for
    it. A cheap MIG welder would be enough to weld mounting plates on, which
    would be some easy welds.

    Even better is simply 2x4s. You won't notice much of a diff. in the
    gaps, and 2x4s are super cheap and easy to work with.

    An 8' skinny is pretty short, almost too short to help with riding
    skinnies. A good minimum is ~12', preferrably 15-30'. Use 1.5" or 1"
    pipe, it's easier to ride, often. You only need to support skinnies
    every 3-5', at most. Don't wast an 8' plank on a skinny. Try round
    cutouts from 2x4s or 4x4s so only half the pipe sticks up above the tops
    of the wood. You can attach with VERY tight steel hose clamps, which
    won't be noticable when riding, but will prevent rotating of the pipe.

    --
    gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

    Nick's main man.

    "I love freedom dearly, ideally, in theory, but in reality we're not
    there yet--Not nearly."--Cold Duck Complex
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  3. PVC - Poly Vinyl Chloride

    Siege

    --
    Siege - Super-intelligent shade of blue

    "Catapultam habeo. Nisi peciniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum
    immane mittam."
    (I have a catapult. Give me all your money, or I will fling an enormous
    rock at your head.)
    "Halo 2 is a lot like Halo 1, only it's Halo 1 on fire, going 130 miles
    per hour through a hospital zone, being chased by helicopters and ninjas
    ... And, the ninjas are all on fire, too." —Jason Jones, Bungie Studios.
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  4. Siege said:

    *PVC - Poly Vinyl Chloride

    Siege *

    Yeah, my bad.

    Bevan,

    thanks for the all the advice. Much of my stuff is driven by ease of
    working with and tools I have and available time. Looks like the PVC is
    out. I don't have any stuff to work with metal, so that's out, but I do
    have some 8' lengths of 2 x 4s which I was initially going to use and 5
    scap 2 x 6s, but thought the PVC might work.

    I am probably going to make it in two halves just to help with transport
    into my van when needed and bolt the two halves together when using
    it.

    I was going to use L brackets with screws to attach the "rungs" to the
    sides. Not optimum, but I figure it will work. I wish I had a table
    saw to groove the parrallel long pieces, that would help lock everything
    in place.

    You, or anyone else, have any ideas one how to put it all together? I
    thought maybe I might alos use some of the metal brackets they use for
    joists instead of the L brackets.

    C yuh at cmw.

    Cheers.

    --
    teachndad - ONE for the...Off Road

    Rod Wylie

    'MountainUnicyclingLA.com' (http://www.mountainunicyclingla.com)
    'Greater Los Angeles Area Trails - Images'
    (http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Greater-Los-Angeles-Trails)
    'Greater Los Angeles Area Trails - Descriptions'
    (http://tinyurl.com/6h8zn)
    'UnicycleRoundupLA.com/' (http://unicycleroundupla.com/)
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  5. Check 'here' (http://www.freewebs.com/andrewcarter/building.htm) and
    download the file with the instructions - it has pictures.

    --
    fcwegnm0b - HammerTron

    "You build a wood contraception that slides over it and has a removable
    pin at the top to keep it in place" - carsonpalooza

    "o yeah how do i change that thing under my name that says i dont know
    how to change this?" - habbywall

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  6. I like making skinnies in 6-8' lenghts out of 2x4s, since then they can
    double as somewhat wiggly gapping bars. I used to have a pair--a 5' and
    an 8' skinny, both 2x4s. The 5' was the primary gapping bar, but the 8'
    helped.

    Here's the tools I would use to assemble 2x4 skinnies:

    Miter box (even the cheap plastic ones, so long as you can get the 2x4
    into it)
    Shark tooth saw (what's the real name? They only have one handle and
    often have a picture of a shark on the blade guard they come with).
    well, any wood hand saw will work. Don't worry about time, I find I can
    get through a 2x4 in as little as 45 sec.

    hammer

    nails, not framing (use nails with heads)

    Screws

    Screw gun or power drill. I use a milwaulkee hole shooter, a bit
    overkill

    Screw driving bit

    Drill bit that's about 1/32" smaller than the bottoms of the threads of
    the screws

    Screws (use phillips head c-sinking, they're the best. Self tapping or
    sheet metal, you know what i mean.)

    In my gallery are some videos os me using the rails, which will show the
    basic construction of them. I made then 7" off the ground, and to save
    wood did a 45 degree miter cut at the ends of stabilizng legs. That cut
    saved 3.5" of wood for every cut made. Also makes the obstacles a bit
    more dangerous. If you make the rails so that the legs don't extend
    beyond the end of the rail you can put them end to end.

    You only need one supporting leg (the flat thing that keeps the rails
    from tipping. It's like the top of the T) in my experience, on rails ~8'
    and shorter. This is helpful since then one end is compact and can sit
    ontop of posts, etc. It also makes it easier to setup and makes for cool
    lines, like leaning the leg making the top of the "T" on stairs and
    propping the other end on the ground. You can then adjust the angle of
    the DH skinny. The supporting leg can also be a 2x4, and it needn't be
    longer than about 26". My old ones had a 3' and a 2.5 support, both of
    which were overkill but useful, sometimes.

    --
    gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

    Nick's main man.

    "I love freedom dearly, ideally, in theory, but in reality we're not
    there yet--Not nearly."--Cold Duck Complex
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  7. I like making skinnies in 6-8' lenghts out of 2x4s, since then they can
    double as somewhat wiggly gapping bars. I used to have a pair--a 5' and
    an 8' skinny, both 2x4s. The 5' was the primary gapping bar, but the 8'
    helped.

    Here's the tools I would use to assemble 2x4 skinnies:

    Miter box (even the cheap plastic ones, so long as you can get the 2x4
    into it)
    Shark tooth saw (what's the real name? They only have one handle and
    often have a picture of a shark on the blade guard they come with).
    well, any wood hand saw will work. Don't worry about time, I find I can
    get through a 2x4 in as little as 45 sec.

    hammer

    nails, not framing (use nails with heads)

    Screws

    Screw gun or power drill. I use a milwaulkee hole shooter, a bit
    overkill

    Screw driving bit

    Drill bit that's about 1/32" smaller than the bottoms of the threads of
    the screws

    Screws (use phillips head c-sinking, they're the best. Self tapping or
    sheet metal, you know what i mean.)

    In my gallery are some videos os me using the rails, which will show the
    basic construction of them. I made then 7" off the ground, and to save
    wood did a 45 degree miter cut at the ends of stabilizng legs. That cut
    saved 3.5" of wood for every cut made. Also makes the obstacles a bit
    more dangerous. If you make the rails so that the legs don't extend
    beyond the end of the rail you can put them end to end.

    You only need one supporting leg (the flat thing that keeps the rails
    from tipping. It's like the top of the T) in my experience, on rails ~8'
    and shorter. This is helpful since then one end is compact and can sit
    ontop of posts, etc. It also makes it easier to setup and makes for cool
    lines, like leaning the leg making the top of the "T" on stairs and
    propping the other end on the ground. You can then adjust the angle of
    the DH skinny. The supporting leg can also be a 2x4, and it needn't be
    longer than about 26". My old ones had a 3' and a 2.5 support, both of
    which were overkill but useful, sometimes.

    --
    gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

    Nick's main man.

    "I love freedom dearly, ideally, in theory, but in reality we're not
    there yet--Not nearly."--Cold Duck Complex
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  8. All you'd need to make a metal pipe ladder is 2 pipe wrenches. You could
    buy all the fittings and pipe at a plumbing store. You can get various
    lengths of pipe in precut, threaded lengths. Then just turn all the
    pipes into the Ts and elbows, and you've got yourself a ladder. Voila!

    --
    loosejello - Amanda gives me sunburn
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  9. Personally I find those fittings to be too weak, and corrosion damages
    them. Also, in order to get them to align you have to let a few be too
    loose and others be too tight. I find 2x4s to be superior.

    --
    gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni

    Nick's main man.

    "I love freedom dearly, ideally, in theory, but in reality we're not
    there yet--Not nearly."--Cold Duck Complex
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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