new trek 2200, stem change?

jayhunter said:

just got new 2200 2 weeks ago. I got a 56cm rather than the 54cm size i have ridden in the past because i got a good deal on what they had in stock. the 56cm actually fits well except the reach to the bars is a little too much (by 20mm or so). I don't want to push the seat too far foward in order to keep my pedaling position ideal. Do you guys think the LBS i got the bike from will change out the 100mm stem with an 80mm stem for free?

After two weeks? Unless you know the guys there pretty well, I wouldn't think so. No harm in asking though.

I'm sure you got a good deal on the bike but if possible I'd try and find the right size frame. ultimately your riding enjoyment will be lower on a frame that is too large.

when you fit a bike, you start at the cranks. you set your seat height and setback based on your leg length, thigh length, foot length, and any physiological things you need to take into account. this essentially locks your seat position relative to your bottom bracket.

next you set your bar position (stem length, rise/drop, bar width) based on your torso length, arm length, shoulder width.

note that there is no adjusting the seat to reach the bar - the seat is stationary unless you change your leg length or pedaling style.

therefore, if you need to adjust the reach to the bar, you'll need to change/adjust your stem/bars.

the shop that let you buy the bike hopefully explained to you that the bike is not the right fit.

also, if you got the bike at a good deal, it's probably "as is". in other words, they won't swap out the stem for free unless they happen to have one laying around and they need a 100 mm for stock.

good luck
cdr

jayhunter said:

I got a 56cm rather than the 54cm size i have ridden in the past because i got a good deal on what they had in stock.

You think you got a good deal? HA, you bought the wrong sized bike! It ain't a good deal no matter what the price. Mucking with the stem or seat isn't going to work. Chastisement aside, an 80 stem will help somewhat (again far from perfect). Your original question is will they swap it out for free not should it be put on the bike in the first place. hey, worth a shot, go ask them. Maybe they'll feel guilty about selling you the wrong sized bike.

Good luck, but ya might just want to face the inevitable and sell the 56 (since it is virtually new) and get the right sized frame. Sooner or later it'll come down to that.

Just want to say I am riding the 2200 and I love it. It's a very nice bike 🙂.

-Matt

jayhunter said:

just got new 2200 2 weeks ago. I got a 56cm rather than the 54cm size i have ridden in the past because i got a good deal on what they had in stock. the 56cm actually fits well except the reach to the bars is a little too much (by 20mm or so). I don't want to push the seat too far foward in order to keep my pedaling position ideal. Do you guys think the LBS i got the bike from will change out the 100mm stem with an 80mm stem for free?

I'd rather get a smaller frame than what you did. You're fit on a smaller frame is easier to adjust than a bigger frame. Its a good deal price-wise, but not on comfort. Good luck finding your 'sweet spot' on that bike.

update: store would not swap stems. The bike is really confortable other than the reach being just a bit too far. I just purchased a 80mm stem off of EBAY and will see how it works for me. I am used to being in an aggressive forward position anyway, I have ridden a Ducati 748 superbike for 5 years, not to mention that my abs and back muscles are very developed given I have spent at least an hour a day in the wieght room since high school (12 years now). It is really just a "turning of the dial thing" as opposed to an issue where I am extremely unconfortable and my back is cramping. From what I read, more than anything sizing is a comfort thing. What it comes down to is that the top tube on a 56 is 1.6cm longer than that of a 54. The only factor that is an issue here is reach and the 20mm will more than compensate for the difference. Thanks for the advice though, I will keep it in mind on future purchases.

capwater said:

You think you got a good deal? HA, you bought the wrong sized bike! It ain't a good deal no matter what the price. Mucking with the stem or seat isn't going to work. Chastisement aside, an 80 stem will help somewhat (again far from perfect). Your original question is will they swap it out for free not should it be put on the bike in the first place. hey, worth a shot, go ask them. Maybe they'll feel guilty about selling you the wrong sized bike.

Good luck, but ya might just want to face the inevitable and sell the 56 (since it is virtually new) and get the right sized frame. Sooner or later it'll come down to that.

That is about a 9 on the tension scale, ay Capwater! If that was the question I wanted to ask, I would have. But thanks for your time and level of excitement on the issue.

jayhunter said:

update: store would not swap stems. The bike is really confortable other than the reach being just a bit too far. I just purchased a 80mm stem off of EBAY and will see how it works for me. I am used to being in an aggressive forward position anyway, I have ridden a Ducati 748 superbike for 5 years, not to mention that my abs and back muscles are very developed given I have spent at least an hour a day in the wieght room since high school (12 years now). It is really just a "turning of the dial thing" as opposed to an issue where I am extremely unconfortable and my back is cramping. From what I read, more than anything sizing is a comfort thing. What it comes down to is that the top tube on a 56 is 1.6cm longer than that of a 54. The only factor that is an issue here is reach and the 20mm will more than compensate for the difference. Thanks for the advice though, I will keep it in mind on future purchases.

I agree with you on this. I have a few bikes and all of them would be considered to have too large of a frame for my height of 5'9" provided I were to use the current trend in fitting standards.

My Allez Sport is a 56cm, my Sequoia is 57 and my Raleigh MTB is 20". However, as you can see in the pictures, the seat posts have plenty of extension to them. And I have plenty of standover clearance as well. The Sequoia is the most comfortable as it has a shorter effective top tube and the handlebars are fairly high. I know that this type of upright riding position isn't for everyone but being hunched over just puts way too much pressure on my crotch. Also my hands go numb and my neck hurts all the time. Screw aero.

Doctor Morbius said:

I agree with you on this. I have a few bikes and all of them would be considered to have too large of a frame for my height of 5'9" provided I were to use the current trend in fitting standards.

My Allez Sport is a 56cm, my Sequoia is 57 and my Raleigh MTB is 20". However, as you can see in the pictures, the seat posts have plenty of extension to them. And I have plenty of standover clearance as well. The Sequoia is the most comfortable as it has a shorter effective top tube and the handlebars are fairly high. I know that this type of upright riding position isn't for everyone but being hunched over just puts way too much pressure on my crotch. Also my hands go numb and my neck hurts all the time. Screw aero.

I noticed you got your seats all tilted way down, no wonder the hands going numb. That is way too much tilt in my book!!! 🙂

tanggoman said:

I noticed you got your seats all tilted way down, no wonder the hands going numb. That is way too much tilt in my book!!! 🙂

The saddle on the Allez is the only one that's really tilted. The others are much less so. With those compact geometry frames the saddles look more exaggerated than they really are. Kind of an optical illusion.

Honestly, even with cycling shorts if I ride with the saddle perfectly level my boys get smashed, especially on the Allez as it has the lowest handlebars of the three bikes. Either I'm getting mashed or my legs are pushing against them with each pedal rotation. My quads measure 27 1/2 inches in diameter, which isn't huge but I have to be very careful. There's no way I can ride with my legs tucked in like those waifs in the TdF. When I used to run I had to lube the insides of my legs with baby oil or they'd rub each other raw. 😄

So I have to trade off hands getting numb vs nuts getting mashed. Which is the lesser of the two evils? Combine that with grade 2 Spondylolisthesis and 2 crushed discs in my lower back and you can see why I prefer the more upright position the Sequoia provides. If I were still 150 lbs like I was when I graduated high school I wouldn't have these issues and could ride in a more aero position.

tanggoman said:

I noticed you got your seats all tilted way down, no wonder the hands going numb. That is way too much tilt in my book!!! 🙂

I read Tangoman's book at the library. Yeah, you're sliding off the front of the saddle and having to use your hands to brace yourself. That looks positively whacked! Dropping the nose of your saddle ain't the solution to squished balls. The weight should be on your sit bones (probably a technical term for them). Doc, ya need a checkup mate!

capwater said:

Dropping the nose of your saddle ain't the solution to squished balls. The weight should be on your sit bones (probably a technical term for them). Doc, ya need a checkup mate!

Then I need a beach cruiser and not a road bike. I don't have the flexibility in my lower back. Besides, the Allez is the only bike that has that degree of saddle tilt. The other bikes are pretty upright in comparison, especially the Sequoia. I'm probably going to sell the Allez in the Spring anyway.

Check out this dude getting fitted in the picture. That would result in major ball smash for me. After a half hour ride in that position I'd have to throw up because I'd feel like I'd been kicked in the package by Bruce Lee. :eek: I don't see how Lance and the rest of them can do it.

Doctor Morbius said:

Then I need a beach cruiser and not a road bike. I don't have the flexibility in my lower back. Besides, the Allez is the only bike that has that degree of saddle tilt. Oh hell. Nevermind.

All look over tilted to me.Hurts just lookin at them.

boudreaux said:

All look over tilted to me.Hurts just lookin at them.

I've tried riding with the saddle flat. It's just too uncomfortable. Puts too much pressure in the wrong places.

Doctor Morbius said:

So I have to trade off hands getting numb vs nuts getting mashed. Which is the lesser of the two evils? Combine that with grade 2 Spondylolisthesis and 2 crushed discs in my lower back and you can see why I prefer the more upright position the Sequoia provides.

I'm guessing that most of the armchair fitting experts here don't know what that means. In your case that degree of saddle tilt is perfectly apropriate. The decreased flexibility of your lumbar region is causing your pelvis to rotate much farther forward than most people's. Hence the nut smashing. Conforming to someone elses opinion of how your saddle should be positioned would result in serious and irreversable damage to your lower back. It's worth the ocasionaly numb hands.

Doctor Morbius said:

I've tried riding with the saddle flat. It's just too uncomfortable. Puts too much pressure in the wrong places.

Somethings big wrong with your fit then (height/fore n aft). Just did 7 hours Sunday on a flat saddle, balls worked fine that evening. Your upright bars should help with your lower back, but the stress on your arms keeping you on the saddle would radiate into your shoulders and neck, not to mention your hands. I guess if you are comfortable everywhere, then that's all that matters.

capwater said:

I read Tangoman's book at the library. Yeah, you're sliding off the front of the saddle and having to use your hands to brace yourself. That looks positively whacked! Dropping the nose of your saddle ain't the solution to squished balls. The weight should be on your sit bones (probably a technical term for them). Doc, ya need a checkup mate!

Ummh, I think you need to address Doctor Morbius, not me... 🙄

artmichalek said:

I'm guessing that most of the armchair fitting experts here don't know what that means. In your case that degree of saddle tilt is perfectly apropriate. The decreased flexibility of your lumbar region is causing your pelvis to rotate much farther forward than most people's. Hence the nut smashing. Conforming to someone elses opinion of how your saddle should be positioned would result in serious and irreversable damage to your lower back. It's worth the ocasionaly numb hands.

Could be. I've seen roadkill that looks better than the X-Rays of my lower back. 🙁 The serious irreversable damage I'm afraid already exists. The pain is horrid. I've had to quit a couple of jobs because of it. Retail jobs are out of the question as I can't stand for very long (approx. 30 minutes) without pain setting in.

Actually Lance has Spondylolisthesis too. That's why he rides with his back hunched over like a turtle. He can't ride in a normal position due to the damage and lack of flexibility in his lower back so he makes up for it with his hunchback posture. That's where the similarity between Lance and I end though. :o

capwater said:

Just did 7 hours Sunday on a flat saddle, balls worked fine that evening.

There are just some things that don't need to be shared.

Doc, I agree with artmichalek and the others. The seats look a little too sloped. But, you know what feels better for you than we would.
I have to have my right shifter turned in a little because of a hand injury. No matter how wide or narrow the bar, the shifter feels better turned in.
Whatever keeps you pedaling.