Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Internal Gear Hub with coaster brake using rders

Started by meb · · Last activity · 9 posts · 694 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
26 October 2005
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27 October 2005
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meb
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  1. I have a couple of Nexus 4 wheelsets with coaster brakes I was planning on using this winter on commuting bikes with studded tires. Was wondering if I need remove the rder and adjust the chainlength to get the coaster brake to work or if I can simply quickly install the wheels as weather dictates?

    Any other issues I may have overlooked?

  2. meb said:

    I have a couple of Nexus 4 wheelsets with coaster brakes I was planning
    on using this winter on commuting bikes with studded tires. Was
    wondering if I need remove the rder and adjust the chainlength to get
    the coaster brake to work or if I can simply quickly install the wheels
    as weather dictates?

    You can't run the chain through the derailer if you use a coaster brake.
    You can leave the derailer on, but you'll need to adjust the chain
    length and route it outside the derailer when you use the Nexus.

    You need some way to adjust chain tension. Horizontal dropouts are one
    solution.

    What will you do with the unused Nexus shift cables when you switch back
    to derailer gears? Zip tie it to the frame?

    Is the Nexus hub the same width as the other hub you use on the bike?

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu

  3. quote='dvt'meb said:

    I have a couple of Nexus 4 wheelsets with coaster brakes I was planning
    on using this winter on commuting bikes with studded tires. Was
    wondering if I need remove the rder and adjust the chainlength to get
    the coaster brake to work or if I can simply quickly install the wheels
    as weather dictates?

    You can't run the chain through the derailer if you use a coaster brake.
    You can leave the derailer on, but you'll need to adjust the chain
    length and route it outside the derailer when you use the Nexus.

    You need some way to adjust chain tension. Horizontal dropouts are one
    solution.

    What will you do with the unused Nexus shift cables when you switch back
    to derailer gears? Zip tie it to the frame?

    Is the Nexus hub the same width as the other hub you use on the bike?

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu[/QUOTE]

    Could velcro it or remove it completely depending on how frequently I switch back and forth.

    The 700C set is 8-12mm wider than the wheels on the candidate road bikes.
    The 559 set is slightly narrower than the mountain bike tires.

    Yeh-I've noticed needing to adjust the brake cable when switching between 571-25 and 559-48 tires.

  4. meb said:
    dvt said:

    Is the Nexus hub the same width as the other hub you use on the bike?

    Quoted message said:

    The 700C set is 8-12mm wider than the wheels on the candidate road
    bikes.
    The 559 set is slightly narrower than the mountain bike tires.

    Yeh-I've noticed needing to adjust the brake cable when switching
    between 571-25 and 559-48 tires.

    I meant the over locknut distance (OLD) of the hub. I think you're
    talking about rim/tyre width, although I can't tell for sure. It's handy
    to keep the rim width the same to avoid having to adjust the brakes, but
    it's not absolutely necessary.

    If the OLD of the hubs are slightly different (i.e. <5 mm), you should
    be able to swap them with minor inconvenience. If the OLDs are 10 mm
    different, you'll probably have a tough time swapping the wheels in and
    out. In either case, I'd only use different width hubs with a sturdy
    bike, not a lightweight racing bike.

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu

  5. quote='dvt'meb said:
    dvt said:

    Is the Nexus hub the same width as the other hub you use on the bike?

    Quoted message said:

    The 700C set is 8-12mm wider than the wheels on the candidate road
    bikes.
    The 559 set is slightly narrower than the mountain bike tires.

    Yeh-I've noticed needing to adjust the brake cable when switching
    between 571-25 and 559-48 tires.

    I meant the over locknut distance (OLD) of the hub. I think you're
    talking about rim/tyre width, although I can't tell for sure. It's handy
    to keep the rim width the same to avoid having to adjust the brakes, but
    it's not absolutely necessary.

    If the OLD of the hubs are slightly different (i.e. <5 mm), you should
    be able to swap them with minor inconvenience. If the OLDs are 10 mm
    different, you'll probably have a tough time swapping the wheels in and
    out. In either case, I'd only use different width hubs with a sturdy
    bike, not a lightweight racing bike.

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu[/QUOTE]

    Sorry, I did respond in terms of rims rather than hubs.

    The Nexus OLD differences are +10, +6, and +4 mm different.
    These are steel framed bikes, at least two welded in the rear area, the third has a mix of welded and lugged connections in that area. I was considering using a Shockster which would widen the dropouts.

  6. meb said:

    Sorry, I did respond in terms of rims rather than hubs.

    The Nexus OLD differences are +10, +6, and +4 mm different.
    These are steel framed bikes, at least two welded in the rear area, the
    third has a mix of welded and lugged connections in that area. I was
    considering using a Shockster which would widen the dropouts.

    Remember that you cannot use the front derailer either. Also, your
    chainline is almost certainly going to be far enough off that if you ride
    with your regular crankset with derailer-style rings you're gonna drop the
    chain.

    Jasper

  7. Jasper Janssen said:


    Also, your
    chainline is almost certainly going to be far enough off that if you ride
    with your regular crankset with derailer-style rings you're gonna drop the
    chain.

    I don't think this is the case. You can choose either ring and size
    the sprocket accordingly. Then you have three lateral sprocket
    positions to choose from: with an offset sprocket towards the inside or
    the outside, or with a flat sprocket.

    These six permutations give a lot of opportunity to get the chainline
    pretty well sorted out.

    Chalo Colina

  8. Chalo said:

    I don't think this is the case. You can choose either ring and size
    the sprocket accordingly. Then you have three lateral sprocket
    positions to choose from: with an offset sprocket towards the inside or
    the outside, or with a flat sprocket.

    The sprockets available here are either offset or straight depending on
    how many teeth you get, so you don't have that choice.

    Quoted message said:

    These six permutations give a lot of opportunity to get the chainline
    pretty well sorted out.

    You might be able to get it done. I'm not convinced it's worth the
    trouble, though.

    Jasper

  9. meb said:


    I have a couple of Nexus 4 wheelsets with coaster brakes I was planning
    on using this winter on commuting bikes with studded tires. Was
    wondering if I need remove the rder and adjust the chainlength to get
    the coaster brake to work or if I can simply quickly install the wheels
    as weather dictates?

    Any other issues I may have overlooked?

    Dropout spacing may be wrong.

    Yes, remove the rder; it's incompatible with a coaster brake.

    If the dropout slots have insufficient angle, you may have problems
    getting the chain tension right.
    --
    Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
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